factory setting is a good setting to start with, the factory put endless hours and engineer behind their alignment to give you the best result on the road and on the track. if you lower your car you could go and do a toe set to 0 toe in front and 1/8 total toe in on the rear to start with, and keep the caster and camber as it is. just balance out the camber and caster if it came out uneven.

My guess is that your car will understeer. I'm not sure what impact the much softer rear springs will have though. If it understeers I would bring the camber closer together and set the rear camber slightly less than the front.

i am going to make a simple statement here.

the #s in the first post are a great place to start.. and when you get good enough to move on you will know what to do.. i am talking about track settings, with real sized tires and offset.

if you are running 275s staggared with a 2.5 camber. you have missed the point of this thread..


beers :beer:

To add on, I am autoexe front and rear sway.....
The spring rates are very unusual but it provides easy traction when you power out early in the corner as the rear squats much easier according to my friend.....

THanks for the advise, I have currently lowered the car to about 2 fingers clearance between tyre and fender......
sorry, can you clarify what do you mean by balancing the camber and caster if it came out uneven??

Thanks for the advise, from the textbook suspension settings, I believe the car understeers too.......but maybe my friend's recommendation is so that it is safer settings for a noob on the track....

Hi Swoope
Have run thru some of the settings ran by you guys...it appears to me those running auto-x are having a more oversteery kinda setups...
let me add on to my suspension setup
Suspension (Front: 11kg Rear: 4kg)
Camber (Front: 1.5 Rear: 2.5)
Toe (Front: slight toe out Rear:slight toe in)
Castor (Front: 6 deg)
Tyres: 225/45/18 AD07 (all round)
Sway bars (autoexe front and rear)
Strut bars (RE front and rear)

The track that I am running is relatively high speed in my view (or maybe I am not accustomed to these kinda speed:sweatdrop) with 2 corner with lowest speed of 65kph, abt 3 corners with kinks of 100kph and 2 high speed left right of about 130-140kph.....

Once again, thank you all for the input

the first post was about a track street setting. and it works very well on the track for many..

you are so far away from it..

the spring settings are odd. you should be asking local track only cars for help. where are you?

you are way outside what this thread is about..

beers :beer:

Oic, thanks for highlighting
The spring settings are standard from the coilover that I bought, so can only adjust a bit of damping rates
The local track guys are generally running more camber in front for FWD
For AWD, slightly more camber in front
For RWD, more camber at the back
Will try to ask more when I meet them next time.

By the way, I am in Singapore and the track some of the local guys go to is Sepang Circuit

Cheers

check your pm

beers :beer:

I'll just post it up: dude, you're sources for information are fubar

If you're going to run that much spring rate differential you'll need to swap those camber settings

ok,

you know what i pmed ?

i am confused now. odd with you!

beers :beer:

I'm referring to the other dude, not you dude :lol2: and you caught me before the edit

:squint::banghead:

wow,

odd that i am ahead of the game! :)

simple is good.

beers :beer:

Here is what i'm running for daily plus track and mountain

Suspension (Front: 8kg Rear: 6kg Megan Coilover)
Camber (Front: -3.0 Rear: -2.5)
Toe (Front: slight toe out Rear:slight toe in)
Castor (Front: 6 deg)
Tires: 255/40/17 NT01

Thanks for the advice.

Are you suggesting that I should run more camber in the front vs the rear for more oversteery characteristics??

I generally worry about opening too big a camber in front cause I understand it will affect my braking....alternatively do you all adjust the castor to add camber during conering?

Cheers
Alan

but you're worried about the rear hooking up off the turn, yet want to run all that rear camber :squint:

you have a Renesis, not a fire breathing V8 LS1 engine, hooking up on corner exit due to power isn't an issue for an RX-8 unless you've swapped on a FI system, the rear also gains camber under compression

I'm not big on front caster, I would place emphasis on setting optimal front camber first, then run whatever caster you can at that setting if it matters to you

IMO the only reason to run a higher rear camber setting is if you have soft front bar/spring rates (read:weight transfer) because then the resulting net body roll has to be compensated

I think he got a 20B, twin turbo running 16psi with 600whp.:lol2::lol2:
I seen FD rx7 with LS1 engine run more spring rate then that on the rear.

That's a lot more front camber than I've seen. That doesn't mean it's bad. Just new data. I'd be interested to hear what your inside to outside tire temp differentials are. get yourself a probe type tire temp gauge and check your inside to outside tire temp. differences are. After a couple of hard laps you want a car that is using as much of the tire as possible meaning that there is as little differential across the tire as possible. So I would say 10% temp difference or less is a good range to shoot for. If your inside is too hot you want less camber. If your outside of the tire is too hot you want more camber. If your car is understeering try a bigger split in camber from front to back. If you have oversteer try more camber in the rear relative to the front.

Thanks for the advice
Will try running less rear camber and more front camber during my next track day

Cheers
Alan

haha.............definitely wish my 8 has more grunt.........a 20b swop would be so sweet.........:)

If you need it as a daily driven, I will not go over -1.8 degree camber front, -1.5 on the back.
anything more is an over kill, and wear out the tire faster.
toe out in front also wear the inside tire faster, so I keep it at 0, and 0.08 toe in each side on the back.

Thanks for the advise
Will keep that in mind for my suspension settings

Cheers
Alan

Yo Alignment buffs! I've read this thread and others here and can see there are lots of good suggestions and discussion about the best alignments, etc. for different situations.

I want to stop the uneven wear on my tires as shown by these NT-01 R-Comps. Any of you that have been there / seen this... then changed things for the better... please tell me how to adjust alignment to change this wear pattern, assuming it's not just inevitable because of track use?

OK, here's my alignment/corner balance w/my weight in the seat.

Attachment 280228

Here's what my NT-01s I look like right now. This is a bit over a year old set used for I'd say 38 1/2 hr track sessions, plus ~2500 miles street driving getting to and from. They're still track worthy, but are getting ready for replacement.

Now admitedly I work at wearing them down as often as possible...

http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f.../tirewear1.jpg
http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f.../tirewear2.jpg
Attachment 280229

...but as you can see (I rotate them often) the wear is even, but at an even slant going towards the outside, then accelerates at the edges. From what I been reading here, more camber than what I run means uneven wear, but it looks to me like more is needed to get the inside wear rate up!

Other setup... Whitline sways at medium front and rear...no overriding under/oversteer, and as far as I can tell cornering stays flat. I run 36-38 cold, 40-46 hot for tire pressure, depending on ambient temps.

Before buying new tires, that might be softer and so wear much faster .....I'd like to get this under control. What do you think i might change?

It's crazy how fast the 8 would turn in with a good alignment. I had the luck of getting mine aligned by a guru here in Austin. I think I still have the alignement printout here somewhere.

I miss it. That ass end would load up and break away pretty easy if you didn't know the way it wanted to be driven.