Originally Posted by olddragger

good job Jay--now stop spending so much dang money on rotors. who needs brakes anyway.
olddragger

Originally Posted by BlueRenesis82

hey all, I run HP+'s in the front, and still have the OEM's in the rear. I have been having an issue where the pad is overheating and I'm getting bad material transfer, which causes varying degrees of vibration under hard braking. These pads will not have to be good on the street, because they will be solely TRACK pads.

I was also thinking of doing some ducting to the front rotors to help out with the temperature problems as well.

Advice/recommendations?

THANKS!

Blue

Originally Posted by Speedtoys

Let me know how your testing with new pads goes.

Theres some new gear out from Raybestos thats been out for about 18mos, and in the customers Ive gotten to test it, nothing touches it.

Hawk has some good stuff, but they eat rotors as a sacrafice.

I have people in some cars going a full season one one set of rotors -and- pads with this new stuff.

Originally Posted by Spin9k

You might check w/Speedsource. I think they use a backing plate with air DUCTS (not ducks lol!). Even without the backing plate, some compromises are less so than they may appear. Unfortunately they are necessary on a street legal car like I have because I don't want to strip it.

I tried to figure a way to have backing plates, but could not find the wiggle room in the wheel well. It's damn tight there, esp. w/9.5" wheels. Only way it appears possible, in a true race stripped car is coming in from the engine bay, going down the suspension a-arm w/the ducting to the backing plate. I would guess anyone that does it, does it like that.

Using my duct method, here's a couple pics that show how I believe I'm providing improved and yes, almost equal cooling, to both rotor plates. First, and a big part of the plan - RB 2-piece rotors center-mount technology to provide air inlets to cool internal vanes on BOTH inboard and outboard faces simultaneously. (Full technology description here http://www.racingbrake.com/main/technology.asp) So right away, the brake shield air-gathering vane at least provides air to three rotor surfaces (2 sides inside rotor face, 1 internal side outside rotor face) and is a significant cooling improvement on the OEM solid version.

I tried to take some pics to show how the ducts I made were constructed to at least point directly at the air-gathering vane on the shield to inhance air flow there. Some disagree on the effectiveness of the duct's air column getting to the shield, but there is no doubt it at a minimum increases air flow through the wheel well area. And I maintain it does a lot more by sending a high-speed column at the brakes.

As for proof of concept, 700+ full tilt brake cycles I performed at Mt Tremblant over 3 days, 3.5 hrs track time, w/NER Porsche Club with no fade evident speaks for itself IMHO. It certainly is not the equal of a true race ducting setup, but it does the job for HPDEs extremely well, if that's what you're looking for (not sure, but if so great!)

pic1 - Looking in through the spokes at a light in the duct itself]
pic2 - A closeup showing the duct and the rotors w/center mounting allowing air to enter at the hub and be expelled outward internally.
pic3 - Showing the air-gathering vane area and it showing through the vent at the hub area.

Originally Posted by Jay Goldfarb

Received the cooling backing plate duct from Mazda Speed. Part if made for them by Speed Source, but only sold by Mazda. Part number is 0000-03-8301 with a cost of $251.15 for the set. Going next week to Pettit to try installing along with a air funnel mounted in front Mazda Speed bumper with an air line directly to duct.

I will post pictures of that once done (if I can figure how to post pictures now of the duct). Being an old fart hurts when it comes to this stuff.