It's the 1/10th HPI body, with a Yokomo wing & exhaust. The chassis is the Yokomo Drift package. Fun stuff.

So how do you like my custom paint job?

 

Looks sweet! Which exhaust is that you got there? Oh yeah, nice paint scheme! How much te paint scheme cost you?

 

Damn nice paint job RX-Hachi! where do you get those rear view mirrors? I didn't get them with my body.

 

Thanks guys. The mirrors, wing, exhaust and wheels are made by Yokomo. I got them separately from the body. The tires have plastic rings on the rubber, which allows the car to really drift.

The paint job cost me a little under $20 bucks, 4 different paints used. You can't tell from the picture, but it's actually a pearl/mica yellow. I tried to emulate the Competition Yellow Mica used exclusively on the '93 FD RX-7 R1.

 

looks sick hachi....

 

???

 

I use a Team Assiociated TC3 for drifting. I painted my body to match my paint, Sunlight Silver.

 

The body comes clear and you paint it from the inside out, that's a great looking car Hachi, doesn't that kit come with an FC body as well?

 

Thanks for the heads up! I don't know much about drifting.I only watch the dvds of it.

 

I would drive it
nice cf add ons

 

Yeah, my kit was actually the FC RX-7, but I'm using my RX-8 body now. They have several kits: Silvia S-15, Skyline R34, Trueno AE86, and the new D1 GP Apex RX-7 (FD). I have the FD body too, gonna work on that one next when I have more spare time.

The Yokomo Drift cars are loads of fun, you really have to counter steer to get the drifting right. http://www.yokomousa.com/

 

Its a model car right?

 

Yes, it's a 1/10th scale RC model car. You paint the bodies and build the chassis yourself. The Yokomo Drift package is specially designed to allow the car to easily drift. Depending on the motor used, the cars can exceed 30 mph.

Hmmm, seems like some of you thought the car was real? I guess that should be taken as a compliment to my hobby crafting skills. Thanks!

 

I smell jet fumes.

 

About how much do I have to spend to have some real fun with one of those?
Is it hard to put together?
Does it run off gas like those other super toys? :D

 

The yokomo is electric, from what I understand about r/c drifting the gas cars are a bit harder to get sideways, maybe has something to do with the torque differences between gas and electric motors etc. From my experience with a different brand (not a drift chassis, but a awd truck/car www.hpiracing.com) the kits are not that hard to put together at all, the more time you take while assembling them, the better they turn out. You can really go nuts with paint as it is done inside out, and you're almost always guaranteed it will come out shiny etc., although it can still run and you do need to pay attention while applying it. Hachi can probably tell you better about price, but I've seen these hover around 200-250 bucks, not sure if that covers batteries and a radio etc.. It's really not that hard to get into, just takes a bit of patience and it helps to have some light mechanical ability, especially with soldering.

 

There's an R/C drifting video I saw a couple of months ago. It had some Sylvias, Rx7's and other R/C's. That stuff is really cool. I want.

 

If you can read an instruction manual, you can put this kit together. As for price, it will run you around $300-$400 (includes price of the car) to have a decent setup (ie. Radio, battery, charger...) You won't find many guys in the hobby that will recommend nitro powered cars for drifting. %99 of all R/C drift cars are electric.

Check out my thread for some kick *** videos. There are 5 videos in total. Click here. :D

 

That's cool, never really bothered to get into R/C cars and all, so I would be a real n00b on that scene. Have to try this tho. Looks real fun.

 

It is a real hoot to try and duplicate the stunts that are pulled off from the videos. Certainly it looks easier to do, but very difficult to drift perfectly. Sure as hell beats drifting in a real car because it is safer and cheaper. Instead of using the Yokomo as a drift car, you can use just about any electric, AWD chassis. The plastic rings that Yokomo produces, goes over the tire will wear out and it can get costly to replace. What me and my friends use is just regular PVC blumbing because it is a fraction of the cost and still all the fun.

The reason why you won't see the drift cars being nitro powered is the torque. Just starting a drift is hard because of the lack of low end grunt. Also, in a drift, you need constant correction to hold a long drift. A nitro engine does not have quite enough torque to be able to respond as fast. The other reason is when you have all 4 wheels spin freely on the ground, you have the tendency to give too much throttle, causing the engine to over rev and that is very bad for the engine.

 

I was trying it the other day with my Awd chassis, one thing to mention is that it helps to have a smooth surface, our streets are all graveled over right now so it was hard getting the tires to break loose on that stuff, I was using "eral" tires too though. i run a 10 turn motor but I would recommend a 15 if anything, my car is fast as crap, but due to the high drain from the motor, my run-times suck :D i love those drift vids, those kits look erally easy to detail, i especially like the "lazy eye" look on the Nissan.

 

I use a 27 turn P2K Pro motor with a 17t pinion and I get around 10-15 minutes of drifting. Gobs of torque and long runtimes. I use that motor for racing as well and I am not that much slower than the field. My friends go through 2 battery packs before I finish my first pack lol.

 

I just noticed that on your car the hoods front edge comes down farther than on "the real cars" and is even with the bottom of the headlights. I'm not sure why but I think that looks so much better than the way it is now even with the top of the headlights, more agressive somehow. I might just have to think up a way to achieve that look for my car. Anyway nice R/C, love the color

 

^I think that is just Hachi using a slightly larger sheet of carbon fiber decal. On the actual R/C body, the hood line is visible in the same place as it's larger counterpart.

 

heh, this sounds a lot like me, mine is practically dragster fast, but just like a real dragster, burns up juice quick :D