BigRed's 8 Dynoed
03-26-2008, 12:56 PM
#1
w8nkel
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BigRed's 8 Dynoed
Here it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unt7PNNGvEM
175.5 HP
BTW, does anyone know if there is something that doesnt allow dynos to calculate torque for rotaries unless you have a special tool? Not sure they were right, but the dynoes were cheap; they were only 30$ for 2 pulls.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unt7PNNGvEM
175.5 HP
BTW, does anyone know if there is something that doesnt allow dynos to calculate torque for rotaries unless you have a special tool? Not sure they were right, but the dynoes were cheap; they were only 30$ for 2 pulls.
03-26-2008, 01:04 PM
#2
Here it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unt7PNNGvEM
175.5 HP
BTW, does anyone know if there is something that doesnt allow dynos to calculate torque for rotaries unless you have a special tool? Not sure they were right, but the dynoes were cheap; they were only 30$ for 2 pulls.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unt7PNNGvEM
175.5 HP
BTW, does anyone know if there is something that doesnt allow dynos to calculate torque for rotaries unless you have a special tool? Not sure they were right, but the dynoes were cheap; they were only 30$ for 2 pulls.
BTW if you want to measure torque for a given horsepower/RPM:
Torque = (Horsepower * 5252)/(RPM)
so if they gave you a HP curve, you can generate the torque curve that way.
03-26-2008, 02:12 PM
#9
Here it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unt7PNNGvEM
175.5 HP
BTW, does anyone know if there is something that doesnt allow dynos to calculate torque for rotaries unless you have a special tool? Not sure they were right, but the dynoes were cheap; they were only 30$ for 2 pulls.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unt7PNNGvEM
175.5 HP
BTW, does anyone know if there is something that doesnt allow dynos to calculate torque for rotaries unless you have a special tool? Not sure they were right, but the dynoes were cheap; they were only 30$ for 2 pulls.
What dyno was it? I think in a socal dyno thread a while back deedub had the hks intake +exhaust and dynoed ~190ish
03-26-2008, 02:21 PM
#10
That is news to me that the car doesn't produce near what mazda rates it at. Or do they just measure at a different point on the drivetrain? I guess I will do some reading...
Nice video
nvm I figured it out.
Nice video
nvm I figured it out.
Last edited by fahrfegneugen; 03-26-2008 at 02:26 PM.
03-26-2008, 02:32 PM
#11
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Numbers will vary on each and every dyno because variables like calibration, weather, D/A, etc. have to be put into the calcuations. As a result of this a dynograph should be used as a base method for tuning and, IMO, nothing more. You could go to another dyno shop in town and make 10hp more, or maybe even put down 5hp less.
Cars that are coil-pack-equipped like the RX-8 can be sometimes hard to pick up an RPM reading on when they hook everything up. Like said if they have problems picking up RPMs you won't be able to get a torque calculation.
Also, the RX-8 is severely overrated as far as the horsepower number goes IMO. If you get 200-215 crank horsepower (180-190whp) out of your car in stock form I think you're sitting pretty good.
Lastly, track times tell the truth on your horsepower numbers a lot better than a dyno will. The dyno calibrations can be changed to make your car have 300hp if they wanted to. The track, on the other hand, will not change them and will not lie.
Cars that are coil-pack-equipped like the RX-8 can be sometimes hard to pick up an RPM reading on when they hook everything up. Like said if they have problems picking up RPMs you won't be able to get a torque calculation.
Also, the RX-8 is severely overrated as far as the horsepower number goes IMO. If you get 200-215 crank horsepower (180-190whp) out of your car in stock form I think you're sitting pretty good.
Lastly, track times tell the truth on your horsepower numbers a lot better than a dyno will. The dyno calibrations can be changed to make your car have 300hp if they wanted to. The track, on the other hand, will not change them and will not lie.
Last edited by RWatters; 03-26-2008 at 02:45 PM.
03-26-2008, 02:48 PM
#12
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dynojet I assume?
Here are the results of the DynoDay I hosted last year. (your number is a bit on the low end but it's probably within tolerance)
1. Peterisurhero: 200.60
2. Razz1: 198.440
3. NgoRX8: 196.840
4. Newcastle: 194.540
5. xdeedubbx: 190.890
6. Jedi54: 190.290
7. Cesaralaniz: 187.900
8. Rotary Rasp: 186.410
9. Sopheak: 186.280
10. Murix: 185.430
11. Kwescott: 184.810
12. Scremn8: 184.540
13. Wing5: 178.560
14. Bao0518: 176.680
15. RXOcho: 175.540
16. Snowfl8k: 174.920
Automatic RX-8’s
1. Brgreen: 149.280
2. Jordanjerone: 145.040
Here are the results of the DynoDay I hosted last year. (your number is a bit on the low end but it's probably within tolerance)
1. Peterisurhero: 200.60
2. Razz1: 198.440
3. NgoRX8: 196.840
4. Newcastle: 194.540
5. xdeedubbx: 190.890
6. Jedi54: 190.290
7. Cesaralaniz: 187.900
8. Rotary Rasp: 186.410
9. Sopheak: 186.280
10. Murix: 185.430
11. Kwescott: 184.810
12. Scremn8: 184.540
13. Wing5: 178.560
14. Bao0518: 176.680
15. RXOcho: 175.540
16. Snowfl8k: 174.920
Automatic RX-8’s
1. Brgreen: 149.280
2. Jordanjerone: 145.040
03-26-2008, 02:58 PM
#13
w8nkel
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yes it is a mt, yes it was a dynojet. They said that it was 165 "SAE" corrected. It was a colder day... Anything that I should check? I mean, the car still runs like it came from the dealership 
03-26-2008, 03:00 PM
#16
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check plugs and coils when you get a chance.
03-26-2008, 03:03 PM
#17
w8nkel
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i mean, the only place that i know of to check this stuff would be at the stealership. It is under warranty, and they have seen my mods before. they didnt really care...
03-26-2008, 03:04 PM
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plugs and coils you can easily check yourself.
03-26-2008, 03:22 PM
#20
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plugs are easy.
- jack up the front left side of car
- insert jack stand
- remove wheel (loosen lugs BEFORE lifting car.
)
- straight ahead are the plugs.
- Brown is okay, black and white spots are bad.
If you've got more then 25,000 - 30,000 miles on those plugs, might not be a bad idea to just swap them out.
Here's how to check the coils:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...16-07-1793.pdf
- jack up the front left side of car
- insert jack stand
- remove wheel (loosen lugs BEFORE lifting car.
)- straight ahead are the plugs.
- Brown is okay, black and white spots are bad.
If you've got more then 25,000 - 30,000 miles on those plugs, might not be a bad idea to just swap them out.
Here's how to check the coils:
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...16-07-1793.pdf
03-26-2008, 03:44 PM
#23
You'll need a sparkplug socket as well. I assume you probably don't have one.
This is the one I use: cheapest I found and comes with other sizes:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...156&pricetype=
This is the one I use: cheapest I found and comes with other sizes:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...156&pricetype=
03-26-2008, 03:46 PM
#24
You'll need a sparkplug socket as well. I assume you probably don't have one.
This is the one I use: cheapest I found and comes with other sizes:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...156&pricetype=
This is the one I use: cheapest I found and comes with other sizes:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...156&pricetype=
