So I finished my first major part replacement (that I did on my own) with the help of the DIY forum here. I know it's probably not that major, but I changed the radiator, cleaned the engine bay, and then tossed in a new expansion tank while I was at it. Considering all I've ever done is change fluids, I'm pretty proud of the fact I did it in just shy of 5 hours LOL (From parking the car in my buddy's garage to starting her back up).

Anyway, the oil question. I was filling up my 4oz bottles that I keep in the trunk with Idemitsu premix oil when I realized it's a synthetic oil. Now I'm sure I'm going to get some slack for asking this question, but I thought the general idea for putting non-synthetic oil in our cars is because it burns easier and cleaner. So why add a little extra lube to the fuel using a synthetic oil when it's the very fluid that actually burns to begin with?

 

Short answer:
The perceived problem with "synthetic oil" is a perceived problem with how cleanly 4-stroke synthetic oil burns. 2-stroke oil is designed to burn cleanly, even if it is a synthetic.


Longer answer:
Everyone that insists that 4-stroke oil doesn't burn cleanly enough is quibbling over factors that don't even frackin matter.
A) Dirty filthy 4-stroke won't ever burn cleanly, regardless of if it's 'synthetic' or 'dino'. It isn't designed to burn cleanly and it gets REALLY filthy in our oil pan, so there is plenty of junk getting injected with it that isn't even classified as 'oil' any more.
B) NO generally accepted 4-stroke oil out there is actually a 'non-synthetic'. If the bottle containing the oil isn't labeled 'synthetic', it is still synthetic. Different additives, but still synthetic.
C) NO ONE has provided even a shred of evidence on if filthy 4-stroke 'dino' burns "cleaner" than filthy 4-stroke 'synthetic'
D) Installing a SOHN adapter bypasses this whole debate by preventing the engine from injecting filthy 4-stroke and injecting clean 2-stroke instead.

Premix doesn't even get involved in this debate, as all 2-stroke oil is designed to be burned.

 

The synthetic does not burn clean is nothing but 100% bulllshit

Synthetic kills rotary is another bullshit

 

"Filthy 4-stroke synthetic doesn't burn clean" <- it's true.

"Filthy 4-stroke non-synthetic doesn't burn clean" <- it's true too.

 

oil in general burns clean regardless synthetic of dino. its the addictives making it multi-grade and staying clean cause the deposit.
in that case even wrong additives in gasoline can cause deposit too.

 

yeah, that all makes sense. I'm checking out the SOHN adapter and looking into if that's the next mod I should do. I was just confused because I kept getting it drilled that synthetic = bad for rotary engines. But it makes total sense that its the fact that the engine oil has other things in it that makes it worse because even if the oil burns off, the filth and grime in it will not.

Now, lets say I either convert my washer fluid bottle or add another tank and do the SOHN adapter, I've seen in a DIY that he added a filter for it. Would you really need that? Really if you are pouring clean oil into the bottle and never leave the thing uncorked, you shouldn't have to worry about not having clean oil go into the engine. When it pulls oil in to lube the seals, is there any pressure there or is it just gravity fed? Thus making a filter just a blockage.

 

No filter required, but no harm done either. Entirely up to you.

The sohn adapter itself is gravity fed. The factory OMP is a positive displacement stepper motor pushing oil through as long as it sees a source and isn't blocked downstream.

 

I personally wouldn't put a filter on a gravity fed accessory. Oil filters cause significant drag in flow and I dont think you would be able to keep up the flow with the OMP when it runs through a filter. If you were going to use a filter, I would have it on the filler neck of your bottle.

 

Yeah. Good point. Any in-line filter should be larger than the line, so the total volume of oil flow isn't reduced.

 

the filter would also need to sit above the median length of the line and ideally as close to the reservoir to minimize the risk of free flow stoppage.

 

So do the dealers drain the factory oil just in case someone at the factory installed the wrong oil such as Genuine Mazda Synthe-Renesis oil?

 

Huh?

No, they don't go around draining owners oil.

They drain oil during an oil change, but oil type has nothing to do with having to drain old oil to put new oil in.

Engines aren't shipped with oil in them.




...and I can't think of any other context that your question could apply to, or even how it applies to this thread.