ra990

My 06 is due for the 30,000 mile service, but it doesn't mention replacement of the automatic transmission oil on any of the recommended service schedule. It does mention replacement for Manual transmission fluid, but not automatic.

When should I replace my transmission fluid?

Thank you!
RA

dozer

iTrader: (3)

you DO understand that AT's take a lot of fluid compared to the MTs...expected to spend up to 100$ on fluid alone if youre gonna do it by yourself

ra990

Thanks, but that doesn't answer my question...WHEN should I replace it...as in every how many miles?

Thanks

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

I change mine every 35,000 miles. Take it somewhere that can do the Power Flush. This removes all the old fluid and replaces it with new. And expect to pay about $120.00 to $150.00.

shazy

There your question is now happily answered.

dozer

iTrader: (3)

nuff sed, happy tuning

ra990

Yes, thanks for the tips.

I find it strange that replacement of the AT transmission fluid isn't mentioned at all in the Mazda service schedule.

Old Rotor

If your fluid has any brown look and is not bright red it's a good idea to change. I changed mine at about 35K it cost less then twenty bucks. My son has one of those containers(I think it was 30-40 dollars) that sucks it out from the transmission dip stick tube. It was fast and even though it does not get all the fluid out(nothing does just like an oil change). The color was much better after that and I'll do it sooner next time. Here is a "TSB" about how Mazda wants it done.

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...14-06-1714.pdf

Easy Driver

Here is what I gather from the service manual: As ATF can last up-to 100,000 miles, the recommedation is to check the fluid for proper color and odor every other service. Bad fluid will be reddish brown, smell burnt and have little metal particles in it. It won't hurt you to change it more often, but you might be wasting money.

shakeyourbrakes

iTrader: (4)

my service tech told me this week they recommend it at 40-50k, then around 80-90k. Here in MA its 179 for a complete flush, new fluid, and a free oil change.

Mercury

The six-speed autos don't have a dipstick nor a dipstick tube. Take a look at the attached page from the service manual.

I think Mazda's intent is to have it changed "on condition".

I had to add a quart when I installed an additional transmission oil cooler and a traditional dipstick would have made the job much easier. This setup makes it about as tough as a manual tranny.

Please note the working fluid is the JWS 3309 spec, aka Toyota T-IV. Both my 2006 Mazda 6s and my 2007 RX-8 use this fluid and for both cars the dealer has been clueless (trying to sell me Mercon ).

I change the 6s (70,000 miles) fluid every 30,000 miles, the 8 (25,000 miles) will be due this winter.

volcomx31

iTrader: (4)

so what potential problems would we experience if we do not do a transmission flush? i have an AT with 67k and i have never gotten a flush..

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

An automatic transmission creates a lot of internal heat through friction: the friction of the fluid churning inside the torque converter, friction created when the clutch plates engage, and the normal friction created by gears and bearings carrying their loads.
It doesn't take long for the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) to heat up once the vehicle is in motion. Normal driving will raise fluid temperatures to 175 degrees F., which is the usual temperature range at which most fluids are designed to operate. If fluid temperatures can be held to 175 degrees F., ATF will last almost indefinitely -- say up to 100,000 miles. But if the fluid temperature goes much higher, the life of the fluid begins to plummet. The problem is even normal driving can push fluid temperatures well beyond safe limits. And once that happens, the trouble begins.
At elevated operating temperatures, ATF oxidizes, turns brown and takes on a smell like burnt toast. As heat destroys the fluid's lubricating qualities and friction characteristics, varnish begins to form on internal parts (such as the valve body) which interferes with the operation of the transmission. If the temperature gets above 250 degrees F., rubber seals begin to harden, which leads to leaks and pressure losses.

volcomx31

iTrader: (4)

that means i should get a flush ASAP..lol..thanks for the info

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

It's routine maintenance. Do it.

volcomx31

iTrader: (4)

is there like a transmission fluid that is required for the rx8? or any shop can do a flush with their fluid?

Pico

iTrader: (2)

Easy E1 you hit the nail on the head. The color and smell will tell the tale.

Easy Driver

volcomx31, the service manual I have says Dexron-III. I'm not sure if this is good info for all model years or not. The correct fluid type should be written on the dipstick or in your owner's manual.

AT fluids have changed a lot in the past fifteen years. I'd want to make sure any advice I'm given is current. You might just want to call up your local dealer who services the most rx-8s and get their recommendation.

Donald Streets

I have been trying to figure out where the fill plug is on my 06 RX-8. Is it the big one that has like a dimple in the center? Also, ever since i changed the oil in it I have been having problems. The transmission has been slipping, it has shut off when I stop, it has started making noises, and now it won't go over 57 mph. Any ideas of what could be wrong?

40w8

Here's the 6spd auto fill info.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

What? no. Please stop posting misinformation.

ATF costs about $12-15/gallon, and an auto trans usually takes 8-10 quarts total depending on how you flush it. So it should cost about $30-40 in fluid MAX.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

Just a few notes to add to what people have said so far.

A drain and refill on an auto trans means you're changing approx 75% of the fluid, with 25% of the old fluid remaining in the cooler, lines, and mostly in the torque converter. So as soon as you crank it up you mix the old with the new. Better than nothing by far, though.

The "Proper" method is to do a flush at an oil change facility. They have a machine there that they use for this. They take one line off your trans cooler and hook it to the machine, and then hook a line from the machine into the open port of your trans cooler. This way the existing fluid from your car goes into the machine into a holding tank, and as this happens the machine is pumping new fluid back into your car to go into the trans and circulate through the system. The machine has a sight glass on it and when the fluid becomes clear they shut it off and you now have all new fluid in your trans flow circuit. They usually charge around $150-175 for this, although the fluid itself costs maybe $30-40.

You can do basically the same thing yourself, albeit perhaps slightly more messy and it will take longer, but you can save $100 if you want. This is how I normally do it. You'll use about 3 gallons of fluid this way. Having a helper for this part is also really nice, but its possible to do it alone.

With the engine warmed up, first you use the FSM hydraulic circuit diagram of the trans to figure out which of the two cooler lines on the trans is the output, this is the hose you want to tap into. Take that hose off your trans cooler circuit up by the radiator area. Use a brass fitting and an extra length of hose and extend this hose into a drain pan. Start the engine and let it run for about 15 seconds, or until the pan is nearly full, then stop the engine. Now pour in approximately the same amount of new fluid that you expelled into the pan, probably around 3-4 quarts. Empty the dirty drain pan. Repeat the process again twice more, run the engine for 15 seconds or so, shut it off, refill trans. During the last step it's nice to have a helper in the car so that you can lift the hose out of the drain pan and check to see when it begins to run clean, and at that point you can shut it off knowing that 95% of your system is clean new fluid. Put the hose back where it goes on the radiator/cooler.

From that point fill the trans in smaller increments with the engine idling on a level surface and check the fluid level often using the dipstick. Stop filling before you get to the top mark for "hot" level, since the new fluid you're pouring in is still relatively "cool" and will expand a bit when the trans heats it up (so the fluid level will rise a bit, and you don't want to have it overfilled at that time).

Doing it this way should enable you to pump out most of the old dirty fluid while not disturbing the transmission oil pan/gasket and should not cause any damage to the trans at all since you are never running it completely dry.

Most autos I have seen need service around 50-75k. Since the trans is such an expensive item and so difficult to remove/install, and the fluid change is relatively easy and cheap, I see no reason to try and 'stretch" it. Every rx8 auto I have seen with over 80k on the original fluid was badly in need of change...so I'd recommend 50k intervals.

PeteInLongBeach

It doesn't take just any generic ATF, it takes a certain specification of fluid. This is the correct fluid for the RX-8 automatic transmission :

Mobil ATF 3309 Case of 12 quarts

This is the same specification as the ATF you would buy at the Mazda dealer. I also see that Toyota uses the same spec fluid, which might be cheaper at the Toyota dealer, but I found avlube.com to have a reasonable price for the case.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

From the factory service manual:

tigersilhouette

Note this is only for the 2004-2005 4 speed automatics. People keep forgetting Mazda did a big mechanical upgrade to the RX-8 in 2006 by putting in the 6 speed automatic with the 6 port engine. Th 6 speed auto takes Mobil 3309. I use castrol multi vehicle import, works great.

-Lawrence