Seafoam!!!
 

always used it on all my other cars and ws a little hesitant to use it on the 8 but omg i love the results so far. filled up a tank ago and added whole can ( didn't go through main vaccum line like i usually do) but still great results. waiting to see results for mpg and will keep you posted. 2 cents based on octane booster discussion. :)

you put it in your fuel tank?

i was unaware that this was an acceptable method.

Has there been any research of long term use of the product on rotary engines????:uhh:

there will be now

Here's the different gas engine applications:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

Good Stuff
 

Looks as though this is good stuff especially if your car has been sitting a while. Ex. Putting it up for winter.

I've used it two or three times on the RX-8. Went through vacuum like the water treatment process for rotary engines. It causes a CEL for a few cycles, but after that everything goes back to normal.

I can't claim any tangible effect. The engine has 60K on it and still pulls as strong as always before and after.

Plenty of guys use it on their RX-7's. I haven't, but some guys swear by it.

gas tank is totally acceptable, works like a champ so far. still get the kitty litter smell through the first tank, that should go away soon though. so far i like it.

just remember that when you vacuum hose it in if you do not give the correct RPMs to open the secondary valves it will begin to collect behind them.

I used this on my motor after finding out I might have a side seal going out. I sucked a cup full through the intake, then when for a spin, then did another cup. I honestly think it made a difference. My exhaust tip was all carbon'ed up after going on my drives, and the engine felt like it revved a little quicker.

I know some RX-7 guys have used for years, doing periodic treatments, and swear by the stuff. But some of these people are love Marvel Mystery oil for premixing, so.....

I am going to get a compression test done soon, and if my numbers come back up then we will have concrete evidence that Seafoam actually does something.

I Have used this for years in my piston powered toys with good results. Let's see.

my best friend put this in his bmw e30s and claimed vastly reduced gas mileage. he said it smoked like crazy and cleared it very well. but then it gets worse gas mileage?

he has been known to tell a few tall tales though. :)

looking forward to hearing long term reports of gas tank application. vaccum i have no doubt about and it something i will be doing soon. just never heard of fuel tank application before

the directions on the can say gas tank use is acceptable

It could be that some of the carbon in his engine was helping to seal the combustion chamber, with it gone the seals weren't as good leading to lower MPG. Its just a theory so I could be wrong but mabe thats what happened.

thats what he claims. but i dunno, it sounds dubious to me. that would mean his pistons or the chamber itself are heavily damaged. and the car doesnt feel like it has any loss of power. (it does have about 185k miles on it.)

well so far the the throttle response does seem better. i do not get that much of a hesitation any more around midband, the gas mileage will have to wait till i fill up next tank as i know this one will be inaccurate due to me driving so hard to try and clean out deposits. white smoke is minimal (as some of you may know who have done this before, through the vaccum it pours out). i do like what i see so far.

i don't see any reason for US to use it thru the vacuum lines... we got no valve train to clean and we also got plastc manifolds, remember? maybe something light to get around the immediate intake opening, but thats it. this stuff should go in the gas tank for the best results in my opinion.

I SeaFoam'ed my motor several months ago when I noticed that my idle vacuum had dropped from 62 kPa to 56 kPa.
I hooked up two vacuum hoses to the two "nipples" on the lower intake manifold (the ONLY right place to do it on the Renesis because of the intake valving) and ran a half can through the motor.
Made a huge cloud, the motor ran like hell for 1/2 day and then my idle vacuum went back up to 62 kPa.
My compression went from mid 8'2 to low 9's with the old-style starter motor (230 RPM).

I've used seafoam, goodstuff! If you need something stronger try some BG44K. Also works for me.

Hmm. 50 of my posts disappeared somewhere...

I know the feeling.

Musta been Kane deleting his "Auto-Tune" thread.

Here are some likely suspects....

http://www.doubleazone.com/goalposts.jpg

So do you recommend gas tank use?

I haven't used it personally, but everyone I know who uses it says that you should change your oil after finishing off that tank of gas.

I guess. It won't do nearly the same job that way, though.

wiat and see, someone somewhere is gonna read that and take it as gold, and when they dont have a 10 second car after seafoam in the tank, they will blame you! ROFL:lol2:

I used the vfad npple behind the throttle body once... Used 1 can per half tank once... I also got seafoam deep-creep (seafoam in an aerosal can) pulled the leading plugs and sprayed each chamber while hand rotating the engine to saok each chamber. This seems the best method from seat of the pants.

Comp numbers before the first 2 treatments (vfad and gas tank):
ROTOR 1 - 323 RPMs
7.9
7.7
7.5

ROTOR 2 - 321 RPMS
7.5
7.8
7.7

After the first 2 treatment methods:

R1 @ 292
7.7
7.7
7.7

R2 @ 293
7.6
7.5
8.0

Better in that the numbers are fairly even and also improved in some areas despite spinning 30 rpms lower. I know these are low, but the current dealer I am using has pretty much insisted it is normal and don't want to do anything further about it. I will be going to another dealership soon to get a 3rd comp test done (and second set of motor mounts!) Before I go in, I'll do another fogging treatment with seafoam deep-creep to see if those numbers get any better. I have no idle or powerloss issues, so carbon build up seems likely... or rx7 plugs distorted the housing :(

Really, the best method is to pull the plugs and upper intake manifold and pump the stuff into the plug holes and pour it into the manifold while cranking the motor with a torque wrench. You want to seemingly hydro-lock the motor with the stuff (though you won't with the plugs out).
Let it sit over night and then, with the ESS unplugged (and the plugs still out), crank the motor until it all weeps out.
Then put it all together and start her up.
It'll be pretty spectacular.

Like fireworks on the fourth of July!

Zoom ZoOM

Only stinkier! And more smoke. And no sparks.

My neighbor thought my house was on fire the last time I did it.

lol, i had the local fire dept called on me when i did this on my tacoma last time.

I am confused as to what vaccum lines you use, can someone clairify it for me I'm having one those DER moments.

Yeah...I wouldn't mind seeing some photos of where folks are puttin' this stuff.

Seeing as how the latest Mazda TSB has given us a formalized de-carbon procedure, I decided to go ahead. I tried to follow the procedure as close as I could.

Exceptions:

1 - seemed reasonable to use SeaFoam instead of the "official Mazda engine cleaner". Also, it's much easier to find SeaFoam in the bottle than the "deep creep spray", so I picked up a 16 oz bottle. So, instead of spraying it into the ports, I used a 2 OZ syringe (easy to find at carparts or garden center -- they're used for mixing 2-stroke oil). Instead of the 10-seconds sprays I injected 2 OZ over 10 seconds of cranking. Following the procedure twice per rotor, for a total of 8 OZ of SeaFoam injected. This seems about right as Mazda claims 1 spray can services 2 engines.

2 - The eccentric shaft position sensor connector is a PITA to get to. I removed the plug wires instead.

Other than that I followed the instructions pretty closely. This seems more reasonable to me than sucking into a running engine. Gives it much more time to soak and loosen carbon deposits. Don't ignore the instructions about disconnecting the secondary air injection pump. This helps keep cat temps from soaring while you're purging all the unburnt seafoam from the system. Taking it easy during warmup is also intended to protect the cat. And I imagine the revs back and forth to 6000 rpm are designed to exercise the seals in their slots and work lose the carbon.

Warning - I'd definitely not do this in the driveway if you've got neighbors closer than 100 yards. The amount of smoke is fearsome and I had to apologize several times. Lucky that someone didn't call the fire department. If I do this again, it will be somewhere out away from houses. Just look for "seafoam" on youtube and you'll get the idea.

Results -- Engine was running ok to begin with but I figured this might be a good preventive maintenance as I'm at 30,000 miles. I do think it is idling smoother and accelerates smoother at low speeds. I also haven't heard the little "startup chirp" that I was getting sometimes.

It would be cool to video tape a seafoam procedure on the Renesis

Bad idea.
Pulling the plug wires doesn't turn off the fuel injectors. Pretty good way to flood your motor.
Pulling the ESS is easy - from under the car. On a car without lowering springs, you can reach it on your back from in front of the wheel.

I do it differently, but I'll try to make a video when I do it next time.
I intend to do it over and over again to see if there is a progressive improvement.

This was my compression check on Friday:

FRONT:
768 kpa - 111 PSI
779 kpa - 113 PSI
848 kpa - 123 PSI

REAR:
825 kpa - 119 PSI
825 kpa - 119 PSI
779 kpa - 113 PSI

Looks like a sticky apex seal on the front (even though the numbers are actually pretty good).
I SeaFoamed it after that and I'll do it again on Tuesday.

Thanks for the tips. I'll have to try that reach next time. Engine fired up right quick though, like one turn. All that seafoam probably dominated the amount of gas injected. Or I just got lucky :).

It should be really hard to start.
If it started right up, most of the SeaFoam was probably draining into the exhaust manifold.

I fill each combustion chamber (with a HOT motor) with 2.5 oz through the spark plug holes using the pressure side of a Mighty-Vac.
I then crank the motor backwards one complete turn of the crank pulley with a 1" socket on the alternator and then do the next combustion chambers.
I let it sit for a few minutes before I go for the third so that the stuff can penetrate before it all gets dumped into the exhaust ports on the third complete turn of the crank.
Then, I let it sit for several hours (until the block is less than 90°F) then crank it up.

Whay can't you pull the fuse for the fuel pump? We have one for that right?

Why pull the plugs and the fuel pump fuse when you can just reach in and pull one, easy to reach connector?
The ESS connector is completely exposed.

I put Seafoam in my last car that I traded in and that car had 149xxx miles. Seafoam gave it life, I also didnot add seafoam in the vacuum line and Iam still waiting to go through the take i just mixed with seafoam but Iam sure it will do its job. The largest Mazda dealer in STL and its head mechanic told me seafoam would be just fine in the RX-8

I don't exactly know mazda's standard policies on this, but I'm wondering if it's possible to get the numbers for the compression test on my engine. As the car owner, you think they have to give me that information?

I'm not positive but I've probably had a comp. test done at some point because I had that original engines-may-have-to-be-replaced recall inspection done (it passed) and I also recently had to bring it in to be de-flooded (at 51k miles).

I'm just curious because I'd like to also get some before-and-after numbers when I do this de-carb procedure. Mostly though, it would be good information just for general engine health and all that.

Also, would it be weird/suspicious if I asked them to do it next time I had the car in?

There is no pan under the crank pulley. Just reach up in the space behind the cross-member in front of the motor. Its right there.

The secondary air pump connector is the one on the passenger side kind of on top of the wheel well isnt it?

Yeah, but I don't know if you really need to disconnect that one.
As long as you do the whole procedure hot, it won't come on.
Now, if you let it sit overnight, you might want to unplug that to prevent a fire in your exhaust...

When you say crank it up, is that with the ESS still unplugged. Also just crank on the alternator pulley to crank the engine, I'm not getting how you manually crank over the engine do I need it on jackstands? Sorry for the questions, but I want to do this properly.