sad story
#1
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
sad story
so my brother ownes his own shop and is a certified tech, but knows almost nothing about our cars aside what i tell him. he called my last week for some help with a customers 05 shinka 6spd with 32k on the clock.
i started with the basics-clean ess, maf, cleaned a **** ton of oil out of the intake, check the oil-omfg its bone dry! it took about 6qts. pulled the plugs and they were replaced about 2 weeks prior. extremly fouled and carbed up. i put in my spare set, reset the computer and finally got it to start. had to keeps the revs up or it would die. well it stalled anyway. the oil fill cap looked like a milkshake underneath, like a head gasket on a piston car only worse.
i went back a couple days later with my spare upgraded starter as this had the old one in it, and after cleaning the plugs again, deflooding, and puttins a little idemitsu in the housings i got it running again but it didnt sound good.
after talking to the owner i found out it was over heated at least once and i was told that the oil had been changed 2 weeks prior with the plugs. however there was no oil in it and it still had the origional coils.
this car was severly neglected and i suspect the overheating is due to the fact that there was no oil and the air dam was hacked up, shortened, and screwed directly to the bottom of the bumper blocking air flow.
ive never had a renny apart but i might suspect a coolant seal or possibly an oil control ring? when cranking with the plugs out and ess disconnected it seemed like it had compression on all rotor faces. i also looked insede the housings with my bros fiber optic camera and i could see all the apex seals were in tact but the rotors were covered in carbon. thoughts from the gurus?
the second time i got it running it was steaming what looked like coolant and oil out of the tube that connects the oil filler neck to the intake, thoughts? i have a pretty good feeling this engine is toast.
i asked the owner if she had the oil change recipts and explained the warrenty on the engine core but she told me the car was a salvage title. for my own cursioty i called a friend that works for mazda with the vin and because of the title status the warranty was void.
i would appreciate comments, or to see if i missed something as im no expert, but fairly knowledagble about our cars.
it sux to see another 8 down
i started with the basics-clean ess, maf, cleaned a **** ton of oil out of the intake, check the oil-omfg its bone dry! it took about 6qts. pulled the plugs and they were replaced about 2 weeks prior. extremly fouled and carbed up. i put in my spare set, reset the computer and finally got it to start. had to keeps the revs up or it would die. well it stalled anyway. the oil fill cap looked like a milkshake underneath, like a head gasket on a piston car only worse.
i went back a couple days later with my spare upgraded starter as this had the old one in it, and after cleaning the plugs again, deflooding, and puttins a little idemitsu in the housings i got it running again but it didnt sound good.
after talking to the owner i found out it was over heated at least once and i was told that the oil had been changed 2 weeks prior with the plugs. however there was no oil in it and it still had the origional coils.
this car was severly neglected and i suspect the overheating is due to the fact that there was no oil and the air dam was hacked up, shortened, and screwed directly to the bottom of the bumper blocking air flow.
ive never had a renny apart but i might suspect a coolant seal or possibly an oil control ring? when cranking with the plugs out and ess disconnected it seemed like it had compression on all rotor faces. i also looked insede the housings with my bros fiber optic camera and i could see all the apex seals were in tact but the rotors were covered in carbon. thoughts from the gurus?
the second time i got it running it was steaming what looked like coolant and oil out of the tube that connects the oil filler neck to the intake, thoughts? i have a pretty good feeling this engine is toast.
i asked the owner if she had the oil change recipts and explained the warrenty on the engine core but she told me the car was a salvage title. for my own cursioty i called a friend that works for mazda with the vin and because of the title status the warranty was void.
i would appreciate comments, or to see if i missed something as im no expert, but fairly knowledagble about our cars.
it sux to see another 8 down
#2
Registered
iTrader: (4)
ive never had a renny apart but i might suspect a coolant seal or possibly an oil control ring? when cranking with the plugs out and ess disconnected it seemed like it had compression on all rotor faces. i also looked insede the housings with my bros fiber optic camera and i could see all the apex seals were in tact but the rotors were covered in carbon. thoughts from the gurus?
the second time i got it running it was steaming what looked like coolant and oil out of the tube that connects the oil filler neck to the intake, thoughts? i have a pretty good feeling this engine is toast.
the second time i got it running it was steaming what looked like coolant and oil out of the tube that connects the oil filler neck to the intake, thoughts? i have a pretty good feeling this engine is toast.
#3
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
havent checked the cat, but it wasnt glowing after it was warmed up. also forgot to mention, no cel, no misfire, but during a 1/2 mile test drive very little power and had to keep the rpms between 2-3k or it would die.
#4
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
From the "conditions" that you said, The engine probably died already.
It's not that hard to rebuild Renesis, at least you can buy pre-cut seals which speeds up the process by 300% (pre-cut seal's clearance is not great for performance, but it's great for re-building speed)
I'm kinda curious of this car. too bad you live too far
It's not that hard to rebuild Renesis, at least you can buy pre-cut seals which speeds up the process by 300% (pre-cut seal's clearance is not great for performance, but it's great for re-building speed)
I'm kinda curious of this car. too bad you live too far
#5
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#6
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
From the "conditions" that you said, The engine probably died already.
It's not that hard to rebuild Renesis, at least you can buy pre-cut seals which speeds up the process by 300% (pre-cut seal's clearance is not great for performance, but it's great for re-building speed)
I'm kinda curious of this car. too bad you live too far
It's not that hard to rebuild Renesis, at least you can buy pre-cut seals which speeds up the process by 300% (pre-cut seal's clearance is not great for performance, but it's great for re-building speed)
I'm kinda curious of this car. too bad you live too far
#8
Registered
iTrader: (2)
I'd finalize the deal with a compression test. Sounds like it was time for this one to die. It could only take so much abuse and neglect.
If it passes that do a pressure test on the cooling system
If it passes that do a seafoam carbon removal.
If it passes that do a pressure test on the cooling system
If it passes that do a seafoam carbon removal.
Last edited by Easy_E1; 06-28-2011 at 07:08 PM.
#11
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
I say they should ban people under the age of 21 from driving. All these 2f2f wannabe in their pos 1995 Civic DX is driving me nuts.
Well. the car has a junk title, if I have a junk title car I don't think I will even give a ****. won't even buy it. cuz in the end I know it will cost more than it's worth. HMMV of course
#12
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
my brother doesnt have a compression tool for a wankel, but ive been telling him to buy one even tho he doesnt work on rotarys. if someone would lend/rent me one that would be awesome. i would like to check mine, im not having any problems just curious. nycgps i agree with the age requirement but i think it would be better if you had to pass a written and hands on test before you are allowed to buy a rotary car
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