Good luck.

bah humbug :( compression test shows 6.8/6.9/0 need rebuild. thanks for the help though all cars now on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-MAZDA...item336bede7b7

Sorry it didn't work out. :(

Hm... I'd throw it in your garage, and save up the few grand to get a new engine...

Maybe an FD engine? because that is ungodly cheap...

haha streetGT, ive infact just bought an engine among almost everything else for this car and spripped it down to a shell and interior. i desided in the end to rebuild the full car.

Also after intensive chats with Mazda and rebuilders of the rotary engines i found out that if these dont start when there "HOT" its ethier Plugs/coils or compression. (Poss a slow RPM starter but very unlikly)

I should hopefully have this back on the road by friday

Wow! A turnaround! Best of luck!

Wow Just read this and big ups on the decision to rebuild the car. Looking forward to seeing pics of the rebuild. Make sure you keep us Updated. Start a build thread my man.

try my link http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...1&l=1bb6c1fb3c

not sure if this will work, but all pics will be uploaded too here:evil_laug

Hi could one of you with an RX8 please have a look at a wire order for me please.

At the rear of the engine just behind/below the black part of the air intake theres 3 wires with different coloured plug fittings (pritty much in the center / back part if your looking under the bonnet)

Blue / White and black

there vertical so could you please tell me the order there suppost to be in?

Ok sorted out the three wires after hours on google.

Now I have the new engine in and running, but hey presto new problems lol

Whats been changed
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
231 13b engine (Remanufactured)

Coils (Mazda Originals [New])

Plugs (Mazda Originals [New])

Leads (New)

Water pump (Mazda Originals [New])

All Gaskets through and through (Mazda Originals [New])

Battery (Optima Red Top Starter Battery RT-U 4.2 8004-250) 12V, 50Ah
Cold Cranking Amps815 CCA
Capacity (EN): 50Ah

Almost every pipe to silicon (New) a few i couldnt get in silicon have been cleaned out


Problem Now
~~~~~~~~

The car wont idle at norm and stalls if it drops below 1500rpm or there abouts.

And refuses to start when hot.

As long as i keep the revvs above 1500rpm the car runs perfect and now sounds fantastic.


Any surgessions welcomed as im totally out of ideas...

Also forgot to mention the ECU has been reset (Ignition light on [2nd click] 20 fast pumps on the brake peddle and the oil gauge moved as it should to indicate a reset)

Any codes that you are getting currently?
You can try and force in two quick drive cycles if you can keep the car running long enough.

Does the power feel smooth and fine above that 1500 rpm mark up to the redline?

Also, when you had everything apart replacing the motor, did you clean the SSV valve while it was easy to get at?

BC.

Congratulations on the install.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

BTW, you may want to ask a moderator to move this to the Troubleshooting subforum with a more descriptive title, such as, "Self-installed new engine along with some new issues." You might get better responses that way.

Ye everything was cleaned before putting it back together. and theres no dash engine light or codes on the plugin.

Above 1500rpm ive had it upto 100mph and it got there without any judders or hold backs. also revving up to full revvs theres no sound of misfire or problems there.

I double checked the throttle valve and air intake valve before dropping it off with mazda as ive read these are common problems.

I kinda gave up, so its with mazda dealership now lol for compression and ECU check up thismorning at 10am just on the offchance its something serious.

I dropped it of lastnight and one of there guys drove it and said it drives like a new car apart from the low idle but they'll go over everything in the morning.

figures X'ed

Good luck.
As long as it runs strong, it sounds encouraging.

As a bandaid, you might want to consider getting an Accessport. With that you can bump up your idle speed. It's also handy for a lot of good stuff, like increasing oil metering, raising redline, lowering radiator fan kick in threshold, and such.

I would clean the MAF, Check the tube for oil residue. Reset and clean the ESS.. Check the SSV as stated. and ensure the CAT isnt clogged.

Post back with results

Had the results today from mazda.

Compression from cold
318rpm on 1st housing
5.6
5.8
5.6

2nd housing
321rpm
6.1
6.1
5.9

From Hot
1st housing
337rpm
5.8
5.6
5.5

2nd housing
336rpm
6.0
5.8
6.0


The guy said there not the best they've ever had but are in there pass freshold.


Faults found.
Lower raid hose not sercur enough but not leaking. (Needs pushing on more)
Starting issue when hot was a failing starter motor. cry cry another £301+vat
The idleing issue solved itself so they linked up a laptop to the car and did emisions and idle and revv check and there was half a dozen lines on the screen (you proberbly no what this is but i got lost here) and the top two are suppost to mirror each other but were'nt quiet the same, they put this down to coils. even though id changed them one of the coils had become faulty from the previous broken engine so theyve recommended i change all four again. so another £96+vat each

Total price breakdown for this car

Broken Car £2000
8x Coils £921.60 (First set got fried by damaged engine) (Mazda)
4x Plugs £117.60 (Mazda)
Set HT leads £27.80 (Performance part)
Remanufactured 231 13b Engine £1300
Starter motor £316.70 (Mazda)
Stainless steel full exhaust system £540 (Third party performance exhaust)
Water pump £127.20 (Mazda)
Inlet manufold gasket £144 (Mazda)
Outlet manufold gasket £72 (Mazda)
Exhaust gaskets £25 (Mazda)
Other gaskets Approx £100 (Mazda)
Spax set 35mm shocks/springs £467 (Third Party Set)
Lightened fly wheels £65 (Had these free from a friend though)
Front passenger drop link £9.50 (Ebay) (Mazda Part)
Silicon Hose kit £180 (Third party manufacturer)
2x Compression tests £72 each = £144
Battery (Optima Red Top Starter Battery RT-U 4.2 8004-250) 12V, 50Ah (Cold Cranking Amps815 CCA)Capacity (EN): 50Ah £180

Total Labour £460
My own time (Approx 35hrs)

Total £7132.40

But the car is now like new so in some ways it was worth it

Car now has 255hp on rolling road, and drives like a brand new car with 0 millage engine

Would i recommend doing this yourself?

Honestly **YES** go for it if you have the spare time & cash, was a very intresting and a learning curb. + Ive got a car im gonna really enjoy driving on the weekends. Also i'll never sell this car as its not worth what i spent on it so it'll live out the rest of its life pampered :evil_laug



If you do go to buy one of these cars (not as a project) My advise is to ask the owner if you can get mazda to check it over before you buy it. It'll cost you around £80+vat but could save you huge bills.
And if it doesnt start when HOT ethier leave it were it is or get a mazda specilist to compression test it first before you part with any cash...

Wait... They told you these numbers passed the compression test??

6.1kp is like 87ish psi right??

Man I'm glad I didn't waste my time going try to get a new engine.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...6&d=1266716801

No idea a new engine though is around 6.7-7.4 on average, so its not all that bad

Your compression numbers look low. Definitely run premix. Will boost your compression and extend the reman.

I think the experience of replacing your engine is definitely worth something more than the price paid for the parts. Your next engine replacement, whenever that will be, will be familiar territory and the know how stays with you.

I think it's really cool that you decided to stick with the car. I wish you fun times.