RX8 overheating, causing car to shut-off.
09-25-2015, 12:48 PM
#26
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^No one said anything about speed, and frankly speed is irrelevant, 220 is refering to it's temperature, you can be doing 0 MPH and overheat. In fact more speed might have actually cooled it down a few degrees 
And apparently, you don't actually know your car, you only think you do. And it's very misguided.
And apparently, you don't actually know your car, you only think you do. And it's very misguided.
* I have performed every oil change on time.
* 93 gas at ALL times.
* Always performed pressure and intake checks.
* Let car warm-up before driving it.
* I have NEVER turned-off the engine cold.
* Revving it, and driving it to red to keep motor alive.
* Small engine checks.
* Coolant topped-up when necessary (due to very small leaks, until now).
When this happened:
- I had topped up the coolant.
- Just performed an oil-change about a week and a half ago.
- I turned OFF the AC.
- Drove about 25-30 MPH for about 7 minutes (NOT revving the engine).
- No smoke, car wasn't too hot; but thermometer indicated it was overheating.
- Car DID have COOLANT but it was leaking (I believe that's what helped save it as well).
- Turned it OFF at the car-shop.
* I just parked at my house, car going PERFECT so far.
Like many have commented, why would I fool myself, I am the one driving it.
However, if anything fails in a couple of weeks, months, or even year. I will update this thread right away.
09-25-2015, 12:53 PM
#27
Do you understand how a transmission works, and why there are different gears?
09-25-2015, 01:18 PM
#28
The Blue Blur
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heres what to look for OP
How do I know if I need to replace my engine do to overheating?
There are a couple of things to determine if the engine has been overheated to a point of needing replacement.
1. Is coolant in the over flow jug steaming or bubbling?
2. Check the plugs to see if antifreeze is on them - green goo or sweet taste (if you are that daring)
3. If you have access to a 4 gas analyzer have them seal off the over flow jug and see what the gases are in the jug. If any readings are there then it is definite.
to check why overheating.
1. I will assume that you took care of the radiator.
2. when was the last time the thermostat was changed? did you use a Mazda one?
3. to check for location of heat build up use an inferred heat light and see where a significant increase is at - across the radiator - water pump - thermostat- To check for a leak the easiest way is to use an ultra violet dye and a special light - the dye will seep any where there is a leak and show up under the ultra violet light as glowing.
There are a couple of things to determine if the engine has been overheated to a point of needing replacement.
1. Is coolant in the over flow jug steaming or bubbling?
2. Check the plugs to see if antifreeze is on them - green goo or sweet taste (if you are that daring)
3. If you have access to a 4 gas analyzer have them seal off the over flow jug and see what the gases are in the jug. If any readings are there then it is definite.
to check why overheating.
1. I will assume that you took care of the radiator.
2. when was the last time the thermostat was changed? did you use a Mazda one?
3. to check for location of heat build up use an inferred heat light and see where a significant increase is at - across the radiator - water pump - thermostat- To check for a leak the easiest way is to use an ultra violet dye and a special light - the dye will seep any where there is a leak and show up under the ultra violet light as glowing.
09-25-2015, 01:19 PM
#29
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In any case; my engine is not the only one to survive an overheat.
Follow this thread for more stories: http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/has-your-engine-survived-overheat-932564/
09-25-2015, 01:29 PM
#30
By this logic, I could say doing 30 MPH in first gear is asking the same of the engine as doing 30 MPH in fourth gear, which is NOT the case at all.
09-25-2015, 01:34 PM
#31
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That's not what I meant when asking you about transmissions. You seem to imply speed is more important than what the engine is doing and that the engine is working the same amount at a given speed regardless of the engine RPM.
By this logic, I could say doing 30 MPH in first gear is asking the same of the engine as doing 30 MPH in fourth gear, which is NOT the case at all.
By this logic, I could say doing 30 MPH in first gear is asking the same of the engine as doing 30 MPH in fourth gear, which is NOT the case at all.
And I was referring to under the condition of which I was driving the car.
09-25-2015, 01:39 PM
#33
The logic still applies, at whatever traveling speed you were, as long as you weren't heavy on the throttle, the transmission would select the most efficient gear, bringing the RPMs down, but at higher speeds providing more airflow over the radiators.
09-25-2015, 01:55 PM
#34
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However, understand that as the thermometer kept going up, there is no way I was gonna risk accelerating or revving the engine up. Keep in mind that my coolant was leaking out completely. Regardless, you are right about the airflow as well.
09-25-2015, 02:06 PM
#36
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Of course, yet he mentioned about going 30 MPH in FIRST gear. I can't do that; or at least I haven't doe that in my automatic.
09-25-2015, 02:48 PM
#37
Water Foul
Luiss7, you might be lucky, and your engine might survive this. It certainly has happened before.
But you need to understand 2 things about this engine.
1. The coolant seals are rubber and not easily replaced like a metal head gasket is. Too much heat damages the seals and causes an internal coolant leak in the engine. Once that happens, you are looking at a rebuild.
2. The various housings that make up the engine are alternating iron and aluminum, which expand and contract at different rates in reaction to heat. The aluminum ones can and do warp when overheated. Once warped, they cannot be used in a rebuild and must be replaced.
But you need to understand 2 things about this engine.
1. The coolant seals are rubber and not easily replaced like a metal head gasket is. Too much heat damages the seals and causes an internal coolant leak in the engine. Once that happens, you are looking at a rebuild.
2. The various housings that make up the engine are alternating iron and aluminum, which expand and contract at different rates in reaction to heat. The aluminum ones can and do warp when overheated. Once warped, they cannot be used in a rebuild and must be replaced.
09-26-2015, 09:37 AM
#39
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After $360.00, and two days of work. (2 different mechanics) and 3 other people seeing it; including myself. Car does not overheat anymore, and it is NOT losing anymore coolant!
First mechanic recommended me to buy another fan, he said the current one is not working to it's 100% and is the reason why it is taking longer for the car to cool.
I will buy the fan this month, and the car should be ready, tho I am already driving it like NEW!
First mechanic recommended me to buy another fan, he said the current one is not working to it's 100% and is the reason why it is taking longer for the car to cool.
I will buy the fan this month, and the car should be ready, tho I am already driving it like NEW!
09-26-2015, 12:17 PM
#40
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
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After $360.00, and two days of work. (2 different mechanics) and 3 other people seeing it; including myself. Car does not overheat anymore, and it is NOT losing anymore coolant!
First mechanic recommended me to buy another fan, he said the current one is not working to it's 100% and is the reason why it is taking longer for the car to cool.
I will buy the fan this month, and the car should be ready, tho I am already driving it like NEW!
First mechanic recommended me to buy another fan, he said the current one is not working to it's 100% and is the reason why it is taking longer for the car to cool.
I will buy the fan this month, and the car should be ready, tho I am already driving it like NEW!
For now.One note on the fans: The two fans are not the same. If your mechanic was judging based on comparing the two fans he may have misjudged. If they rotate smoothly (by hand, car off and COLD! Or you'll lose fingers.) and aren't hard to spin, they are probably OK.
09-26-2015, 03:36 PM
#41
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Declare victory and move on. For now.
One note on the fans: The two fans are not the same. If your mechanic was judging based on comparing the two fans he may have misjudged. If they rotate smoothly (by hand, car off and COLD! Or you'll lose fingers.) and aren't hard to spin, they are probably OK.
For now.One note on the fans: The two fans are not the same. If your mechanic was judging based on comparing the two fans he may have misjudged. If they rotate smoothly (by hand, car off and COLD! Or you'll lose fingers.) and aren't hard to spin, they are probably OK.
09-26-2015, 06:22 PM
#42
You gonna eat that?
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05-18-2018, 11:45 AM
#45
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OP hasn't been on in almost two years and his last post a year after this one talked about continued overheating problems.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...eating-262439/
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...eating-262439/
05-20-2018, 09:46 PM
#47
Am I correct in the understanding that overheating the car even once most likely means it is done? Mine overheated the other day reaching 240 degrees before I noticed it.is it time to let it go? It's an '04, 110k miles, but I've only had it since March. And I live in hell... I mean Arizona.
I REALLY don't want to be blissfully ignorant.
I REALLY don't want to be blissfully ignorant.
05-20-2018, 09:51 PM
#48
Am I correct in the understanding that overheating the car even once most likely means it is done? Mine overheated the other day reaching 240 degrees before I noticed it.is it time to let it go? It's an '04, 110k miles, but I've only had it since March. And I live in hell... I mean Arizona.
I REALLY don't want to be blissfully ignorant.
I REALLY don't want to be blissfully ignorant.
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Raymond Mitchell (05-21-2018)
05-21-2018, 04:58 AM
#49