RX8 idling vibration
#52
#53
Registered
iTrader: (1)
- is the car stock? No aftermarket intakes or anything?
- Any visible broken or disconnected houses under the hood?
- Any history of overheating? Does the engine temp needle move at all when this is happening?
- Check engine light on?
- If you have access to an OBD reader, it would be great to collect the follow data while the car is warmed up and idling: rpm, AFR, short and long term fuel trim, coolant temperature
When you say A/C turns off, does it come back on within 30 seconds or so, or it stays off?
#54
Ok yeah, that's not great. A few things to check to confirm/eliminate possible causes:
When you say A/C turns off, does it come back on within 30 seconds or so, or it stays off?
- is the car stock? No aftermarket intakes or anything?
- Any visible broken or disconnected houses under the hood?
- Any history of overheating? Does the engine temp needle move at all when this is happening?
- Check engine light on?
- If you have access to an OBD reader, it would be great to collect the follow data while the car is warmed up and idling: rpm, AFR, short and long term fuel trim, coolant temperature
When you say A/C turns off, does it come back on within 30 seconds or so, or it stays off?
Yes there is one.
it does overheat on hot days. [im actually waiting for it to cool as I’m typing this] The needles does move but I’ve noticed when I put it in acc the needle is very hot the. When I turn on the engine the needles goes to the middle.
No check engine light.
a mechanic did it once and said it was normal
It stays off. I’ve never had it turn back on
and thanks for the help. My parents think I should have gotten a corolla
Last edited by Respectedwealth; 07-09-2020 at 05:25 PM.
#55
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Ok, that's ok that's your barometric sensor. It should be open.
These engines are suuuper sensitive to overheating. If the needle is moving at all, you're in danger. If the needle is all the way right, it's dying. So that's not great.
Under what conditions does it over heat? Standing still or driving at speed? Traffic?
These engines are suuuper sensitive to overheating. If the needle is moving at all, you're in danger. If the needle is all the way right, it's dying. So that's not great.
Under what conditions does it over heat? Standing still or driving at speed? Traffic?
#56
Ok, that's ok that's your barometric sensor. It should be open.
These engines are suuuper sensitive to overheating. If the needle is moving at all, you're in danger. If the needle is all the way right, it's dying. So that's not great.
Under what conditions does it over heat? Standing still or driving at speed? Traffic?
These engines are suuuper sensitive to overheating. If the needle is moving at all, you're in danger. If the needle is all the way right, it's dying. So that's not great.
Under what conditions does it over heat? Standing still or driving at speed? Traffic?
#59
Registered
iTrader: (1)
It should be able to handle traffic in Chicago without overheating. A few possible explanations: the rad fans don't turn like they used to /have burnt out. Easy to test, just let the car idle and wait for them to turn on. They should go to low speed, then either turn off and on periodically or go to high speed. You can confirm if they're both turning, and if they do go to high speed it means the car is still not handling heat well. You can check if coolant in the radiator overflow bottle bubbles while it's warming up. DO NOT OPEN THE OVERFLOW WHILE CAR IS RUNNING OR STILL HOT.
The next possibility is the repeated overheating has damaged the engine. Bubbles in the overflow should point to that. You can have any mechanic do a "block test" for exhaust gas in the coolant. That will confirm it. You're lucky if it hasn't been damaged, to be honest.
Does the car still have the plastic tray under the radiator and front bumper? Not having it can lead to poor cooling at speed.
The next possibility is the repeated overheating has damaged the engine. Bubbles in the overflow should point to that. You can have any mechanic do a "block test" for exhaust gas in the coolant. That will confirm it. You're lucky if it hasn't been damaged, to be honest.
Does the car still have the plastic tray under the radiator and front bumper? Not having it can lead to poor cooling at speed.
#60
It should be able to handle traffic in Chicago without overheating. A few possible explanations: the rad fans don't turn like they used to /have burnt out. Easy to test, just let the car idle and wait for them to turn on. They should go to low speed, then either turn off and on periodically or go to high speed. You can confirm if they're both turning, and if they do go to high speed it means the car is still not handling heat well. You can check if coolant in the radiator overflow bottle bubbles while it's warming up. DO NOT OPEN THE OVERFLOW WHILE CAR IS RUNNING OR STILL HOT.
The next possibility is the repeated overheating has damaged the engine. Bubbles in the overflow should point to that. You can have any mechanic do a "block test" for exhaust gas in the coolant. That will confirm it. You're lucky if it hasn't been damaged, to be honest.
Does the car still have the plastic tray under the radiator and front bumper? Not having it can lead to poor cooling at speed.
The next possibility is the repeated overheating has damaged the engine. Bubbles in the overflow should point to that. You can have any mechanic do a "block test" for exhaust gas in the coolant. That will confirm it. You're lucky if it hasn't been damaged, to be honest.
Does the car still have the plastic tray under the radiator and front bumper? Not having it can lead to poor cooling at speed.
#61
I was thinking of replacing my thermostat and was wondering if I should also replace the water pump. To help with the overheating. Also is there anything else I could change to help with the issue
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eretromicin
Series I Trouble Shooting
3
02-14-2013 01:14 AM
MARIOS KONTEMENIOTIS
Series I Trouble Shooting
5
12-10-2009 11:10 AM