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RX-8 Draining Battery While Off?

Old 03-30-2015, 11:14 PM
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What happens to an electric car and you don't drive it very often? Like a Tesla?

They will die!

It's two weeks for me when I don't drive it, then dead battery.
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Old 08-08-2015, 02:25 AM
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Bose 6CD changer causing excess current draw killing the battery in days.

I have a 2007 RX8 and had the same issue. I noticed current draw to be ~250mA when locked and with everything off. Obviously this is too high. I have isolated the issue to electrical circuits associated with the Room Fuse. I further isolated it to the Bose factory unit (I have a 6 CD changer). Without the Bose unit the current draw drops to 70mA and after a few min to 35mA.
What is disturbing is that so many people have this problem with most having an electrical issue with various systems.
Has anyone else isolated the current draw to there Bose factory unit?
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Old 08-08-2015, 02:53 PM
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Parasitic draw 2.8 amps!

Recently did a amp draw test, pulled 2.8amps, as you probably know this the kills battery within hrs. The fuses/ relays associated are room(15a) and accessories relay. When I pull the room fuse the amps drop to (0.13 amp) once I remove the the accessories relay it drops to (0.0amp). The [U]room fuse[/U] is drawing the most from the battery, however when I install the accessory relay I hear a click on that exact relay. The items that stay on are(radio, gps, rear dvd player[unsure if factory or not], also hear actuators power up on all four doors but not enough to move door locks) believe this vehichle is also fully equipped meaning... bose system, nav, power seats, heated seats etc etc

Items checked....
#ignition switch....disconnected,#all fuses good,#rear dvd unit disconnected, #bose amp disconnected

Items I plan to disconnect....
Radio, nav, keyless entry module,

A few key notes....
the data link connection is reading error no codes just error this must all correlation in some way. Previous owner replaced a 15amp fuse with a 30amp. Pulled the brake light switch down by the trans(it was completely fried) car no longer blows the 15amp ignition fuse, I believe the previous owner used the 30amp to keep car running. Hoping they didnt fry something pricy any advice or schematics would be nice. Have pdf manuals on it aswell if anyone wants to help or just wants the pdf
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Old 08-09-2015, 02:29 AM
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Can you please send me the PDFs. Also, I believe the keyless entry module is under (behind) the glove compartment correct?
Send a picture if you can. I was able to reduce the current draw mostly by unplugging the Bose car stereo unit.
None of the other fuses made any noticeable difference in the draw.


Originally Posted by Rotary_newbee89 View Post
Recently did a amp draw test, pulled 2.8amps, as you probably know this the kills battery within hrs. The fuses/ relays associated are room(15a) and accessories relay. When I pull the room fuse the amps drop to (0.13 amp) once I remove the the accessories relay it drops to (0.0amp). The [U]room fuse[/U] is drawing the most from the battery, however when I install the accessory relay I hear a click on that exact relay. The items that stay on are(radio, gps, rear dvd player[unsure if factory or not], also hear actuators power up on all four doors but not enough to move door locks) believe this vehichle is also fully equipped meaning... bose system, nav, power seats, heated seats etc etc

Items checked....
#ignition switch....disconnected,#all fuses good,#rear dvd unit disconnected, #bose amp disconnected

Items I plan to disconnect....
Radio, nav, keyless entry module,

A few key notes....
the data link connection is reading error no codes just error this must all correlation in some way. Previous owner replaced a 15amp fuse with a 30amp. Pulled the brake light switch down by the trans(it was completely fried) car no longer blows the 15amp ignition fuse, I believe the previous owner used the 30amp to keep car running. Hoping they didnt fry something pricy any advice or schematics would be nice. Have pdf manuals on it aswell if anyone wants to help or just wants the pdf
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Old 08-09-2015, 02:38 AM
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Send me your email in a p.m. or I.m. and I'll shoot you the pdf tomorrow...intelneo.

I was going to pull the radio a GPS tomorrow as well I'll post the outcome....

Yes behind the glove box, should be two bolts or screws on the side and then just disconnect the strings that keep the box uprigh. I will be checking that module as well
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:07 PM
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Me too

Okay so my battery also drains while it's off and now my alternator belt is seized up and won't turn so I am guessing it's the alternator?
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:06 AM
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Could be, it's kind of hard to guess over the internet. Pull the belt and see if the alternator is seized.
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Old 08-18-2015, 10:39 AM
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Doubt it a the alternator due to it draining over night it's probably a parasitic draw... Google parasitic drain look for one with Eric the car guy he's very knowledgeable and explains things simply
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Old 08-22-2015, 07:42 PM
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The DVD in the trunk is not stock.
Find the connection at the radio and disconnect it.
If you disconnect it in the trunk you could still have a draw as the wires may be grounded.
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Old 08-22-2015, 07:52 PM
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Unhappy

It's the factory navigation DVD player. Problem is something is telling the accessories relay to power up when key isn't present. Also it's not the ignition switch, nor the keyless control module. Another symptom is the obd2 port is not communicating with the code reader it's pulling up "error" message and the scanner works on my Honda Subaru and Chevy.... Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated. Car will start up just cant pass smog due to the lack of communication
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Old 08-23-2015, 01:49 AM
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I have a 500ma battery tender and it can hold fully charged battery means when turned off, the car draws less than 500ma total.
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Old 08-23-2015, 10:51 AM
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I found a white connector on the negative cable located in between the battery and the filter box to be the culprit. I replaced it with a 10-12 yellow barrel splice and its been 2 weeks of flawless ignition. I had this problem for close to a year. Battery would go dead over the weekend. Drove me nuts. The connector would create a parasitic draw because of the male and female terminals not making good contact.

Last edited by mambotaino; 08-23-2015 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:59 PM
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Just replaced my Mazda 60-month high performance battery which was going after about six years of service. Got the same battery. which performed great year-round through six winters and summers. Only the second battery I have needed for my RX8. I again made sure that I had Mazda's battery Service kit BGK-BST installed. It features super stout terminal connections and covers and ground connector. Service kit is only $12.95 .
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Ishmael RX View Post
I had same issue, and i realized the problem was that my brake light stayed lit. when i checked everything related to it, I saw that my sensor on the brake pedal was hanging off. check that because that will definitely drain the battery quickly like yours.
How did you manage to fix this? My 8 has the brake sensor hanging and battery dies really quick. Some mechanic fixed my clutch pedal aince it was broken and left the sensor hanging.
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Old 09-20-2015, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotary_newbee89 View Post
Doubt it a the alternator due to it draining over night it's probably a parasitic draw... Google parasitic drain look for one with Eric the car guy he's very knowledgeable and explains things simply

I was responding to Street rx8 race, he stated his belt was seized.
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Old 02-23-2018, 09:47 PM
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About the dead battery problem,I had 3 beautiful rx7s at one time,a 79,an 80,and a 91 widebody,and the trick to keeping your battery juiced while it's not being driven is to hook up an extra ground strap from you strut tower bolt to your engine block,it wouldn't hurt if you wanted to hook one up to each strut tower,take my advice,newer cars have multiple ground points ,I'm surprised that Mazda never did this,but it does fix the problem
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Old 04-23-2018, 05:55 PM
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I recently did a parasitic loss test and found I had a 1.5A loss associated with the "BTN 30A" fuse (pulling the fuse left me with no parasitic loss).
I took it to the dealer and they said I just needed a new alternator, and that this 1.5A loss is normal. Seems insanely high to me.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:32 PM
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It is insanely high. My normal draw with car off is 0.028amp.

Who is this dealer so we know never to go there?

If I remember well, the tail lights are on the BTN fuse, so if you have the common broken 3rd brakelight harness problem, that could easily be it. Less sure, but the trunk light staying on would be right around 1.5 amp.

Last edited by Loki; 04-23-2018 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:33 PM
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Fremont Mazda. Ticket for new alternator was $800.

They also literally left something in my dash that rolls around during hard cornering. Would not recommend going there.
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Old 03-19-2019, 12:32 AM
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CA Same Problem

I have a 2005 RX8 and have been experiencing the same problem. Have replaced the battery twice in the last year, took it to my mechanic, who is normally very good, and he told me to just buy a better battery and that one of the wires was loose and nothing wrong with it. I have read all of the other explanations offered in this forum regarding the security system, trunk light, etc. draining the battery. My only question is this: if that was the case, why did it just start to happen now? (BTW, I disconnected my trunk light years ago so that would NEVER happen.) This seems to be a legit problem happening to lots of other people, but just like gulf war syndrome, nobody seems to care or want to recognize it because it would probably cost too much money. I should also mention that my check engine light and radiator have been going off for about 2 years now, but have had everything checked out and car runs fine, as long I can get it to start. I miss the days when cars did not have computer systems, which are simply not designed to last more than 10 years in anything, especially a car.
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Old 03-19-2019, 05:18 AM
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Welcome.

A couple of things may explain 'why now'.
It's possible your battery terminals are stretched.
Even though the bolts are completely tight, they can stretch and not tight enough to make good contact.
You could have a loose or corroded ground wire.
Your alternator could be failing.
Btw, I'm on my 3rd battery in less than 7 years.

In addition, the coolant light probably means your coolant tank sensor is bad.
A new tank would fix it, around $125.
Personally, I don't like not having it functional in case it actually loses coolant due to a leak in the system, especially since the temp. gauge is borderline useless.
By the time you notice it, it could be already be overheated and damage or destroy your engine
Lots of people say unplug it, I wouldn't.

Also, NEVER ignore a CEL.
Get it scanned if you haven't already.
It could be misfires, that causes the catalytic converter to fail.
It could also be a code for a bad cat.
Probably the No.1 reason for Renesis failure.

Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCajun View Post
Welcome.

A couple of things may explain 'why now'.
It's possible your battery terminals are stretched.
Even though the bolts are completely tight, they can stretch and not tight enough to make good contact.
You could have a loose or corroded ground wire.
Your alternator could be failing.
Btw, I'm on my 3rd battery in less than 7 years.

In addition, the coolant light probably means your coolant tank sensor is bad.
A new tank would fix it, around $125.
Personally, I don't like not having it functional in case it actually loses coolant due to a leak in the system, especially since the temp. gauge is borderline useless.
By the time you notice it, it could be already be overheated and damage or destroy your engine
Lots of people say unplug it, I wouldn't.

Also, NEVER ignore a CEL.
Get it scanned if you haven't already.
It could be misfires, that causes the catalytic converter to fail.
It could also be a code for a bad cat.
Probably the No.1 reason for Renesis failure.

Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
Listen to BigCajun here, he spokes the truth. The battery even if all connections are tight will lose juice over just a week or two from the drain of the alarm system and other systems that stay on in your car. leave the trunk open and the trunk light will take down a good battery very quickly. Buy the best battery you can after checking all your wires and connections and don't leave the car undriven for too long unless you use a trickle charger hooked up to the battery. I use this one for two of my cars ,including my 2008 40th Anniversary Edition RX8 and it works flawlessly.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-022-0185G-dl-wh-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B00DJ5KEEA/ref=sr_1_4?hvadid=323317666033&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9027222&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=5582001094731684014&hvtargid=aud-676677759484%3Akwd-324972145085&keywords=automotive+battery+tenders&qid=1553043429&s=gateway&sr=8-4&tag=googhydr-20 https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-022-0185G-dl-wh-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B00DJ5KEEA/ref=sr_1_4?hvadid=323317666033&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9027222&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=5582001094731684014&hvtargid=aud-676677759484%3Akwd-324972145085&keywords=automotive+battery+tenders&qid=1553043429&s=gateway&sr=8-4&tag=googhydr-20

Last edited by gwilliams6; 03-20-2019 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 03-20-2019, 10:59 AM
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I left my car undriven for 2 weeks once and it fired right up. I doubt the alarm drains that much juice unless you have a low capacity battery, which some people use for weight reduction.

Do you have anything aftermarket like a subwoofer? I'd start looking there.

Honestly, I think the RX-8 doesn't have too much electronics. It's not a BMW or some German overengineered BS.

Don't tell me you like old cars because there is no CEL and you can pretend there isn't a problem...

Last edited by UnknownJinX; 03-20-2019 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:01 PM
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The last time cars didn't have computers, warranties were 3 years or 30,000 miles max. I don't think anyone misses those days.

Get a multimeter out and check for fantom current at each fuse. I have something in my headlight washer circut that draws about 100mA and runs the battery down when sitting for a long time. So I just pulled that fuse until I figure it out.

You shouldn't see more than 0.025 amp draw from the battery with the car off.
​​​​​​
This has been a thing as long as motor vehicles have existed.
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Old 03-20-2019, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by UnknownJinX View Post
I left my car undriven for 2 weeks once and it fired right up. I doubt the alarm drains that much juice unless you have a low capacity battery, which some people use for weight reduction.

Do you have anything aftermarket like a subwoofer? I'd start looking there.

Honestly, I think the RX-8 doesn't have too much electronics. It's not a BMW or some German overengineered BS.

Don't tell me you like old cars because there is no CEL and you can pretend there isn't a problem...
Believe it or not Jinx it is a bigger issue then your experince with many RX8s, even with NO aftermarket parts . They do drain batteries even when in excellent health. Dealers and rotary specialist and tuners will verify that. It is also a factor depending on where you live. A cold winter can drain a battery faster and then any other normal drain while sitting can drop the battery below the ideal cranking power. Cheers
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