Royal Pruple 5w30 / Catrol Edge 5w30 / Mobil 1 5w30 REVIEWS?
 

Hi Guys,

Read enough about debats on synthetic and Mazda mineral oil.

I see no issue changing to full synthetic or semi as the rx8 has the upgraded O-rings and it was the pre-renesis that had the issues with using full sythetic or sythetic blends.

NOW, can't seem to really find any reviews on the above oils on these forums but more so debates "syth vs mineral"

I'm definately changing to Sythenic but anyone with personal recommondations on the below?

Will definately be using either one of the 3!

Royal Pruple 5w30 - Sick smell???
Catrol Edge 5w30
Mobil 1 5w30

Check http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

More info than you could ever want to know about oil.

Thanks for the link mate I'll have a search on the link.

But still open to others opinions and feedback on the above oils. Thanks

Mobil 1 is good. RP is good too, but more expensive I believe. Don't know anything about Castrol Edge.

I personally would go with the Mobil 1, as you can get good deals from Pepboys and Autozone (5 quarts + K&N oil filter for like 30), but I like the color purple.

That and because I want to go 0W40, so I have to go with RP on that one.

Hey JenDesu,

Thanks for feedback, I ended up going with Mobil 1 5w30 API SL ILSAC GF-3.

Castrol Edge has different grades which does not meet the owners manual. I think API SM? Can't remember

Did the change today, car feels alot smoother. I got the OEM oil filter but I'll probably get K&N next change.

Need the extra protection of Synthetic oils in the summer time here in Australia.

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=16

Searching IS your friend... will you still use mobil 1? :)

Do some more searching and you'll probably stop using Mobil 1. From what I've read, anything that is FULL synthetic will be fine: RP, Redline, Amsoil, etc. Personally, I'd stick to those 3.

This isn't really a review of the oil being used by a forum member?

Again the pros and cons of sythetics. I deceided to use sythetics but wanted a review from someone who has personally used the oil in an RX8/

The reason why I choose Mobil 1 is because the oil grade meets the owners manual requirements. API SL and ILSAC GF-3. 5w30

Castrol Edge is a different grade, I didnt check Royal Purple. Plus the link you gave me is research and opinions about sythetics"a decade ago?" We are talking about the Renesis engine not the 13B, 12A so forth. Like I've said I'm going sythetics and dont need any more convicing.

Thanks for the link and advice to "search" I have used the search and did not find what I wanted, which was a "REVIEW" on a forum member who has used either of the above oils.

If you are NOT using a Sohn adapter or otherwise injecting 2-cycle into your motor I wouldn't use Mobile1 for the fact that it's been communicated to me by people I trust to not be one of the best synthetics for the RENESIS.

Does that mean it's bad? Not at all. No doubt it is because the synthetic properties don't make it prime for burning inside the combustion chamber. While I was using standard OMP injection I ran Royal Purple 5w-30 because RP stands firmly behind their product in terms of rotary engine use. IIRC they have a whole section on their website devoted to rotary engines.

RP is fairly easy to get a hold of as well.

I can't speak too much in terms of direct effects of the RP 5w-30 but I did run it for nearly 50,000 miles. No issues to speak of during that time but I didn't perform any testing but I did oil changes every 3,000 miles. I did notice quite a difference when changing the oil out so I do not know how much of the additive package was left. I see no problem in anyone using it but testing would be best to determine your change intervals.

I will use Mobil1 0W-40 after my next change but I am using a SOHN adapter and the only reason I'm switching is because the UOA of my Castrol GC 0W-30 wasn't great. Take everything we say with a grain of salt you hear on this board and do your own research. RP is good but costly and I don't thin Castrol Edge is a true synthetic either. But more important than your choice is that you change whatever oil you decide on often and on time.

Thanks for the feedback really appreciate it, I'll do a search on Sohn Adapters and if this is crucial for the RENESIS in order the use Mobil 1 oil I'll reconsider my oil choice next change.

I noticed your Avatar is a series 5? Are you using RP in it? Or when you say you used RP for nearly 50,000miles in this on an 8?

Totally agree, thanks :)

If you are not worried about the price you cannot go wrong with RP 0W-40.

No, that avatar is actually my RX8. Yes, you're correct that those 50,000 miles are with my RX8.

I do suggest the Sohn adapter to anyone that is willing to undertake the installation and the (possible) warranty consequences. I waited until my powertrain warranty was up before installing it. The adapter allows you to run a seperate oil injection tank which I run 2-cycle oil. 2-cycle is meant to be burned unlike 4 cycle motor oil and thus has properties more in line with what the engine needs.

The upside is you can run whatever oil you want in the crank case without worrying about whether it burns well. The cost is about $120ish including the 1 quart tank which I ordered from American Plastics.

I'll have to check out those UOA's as I nearly switched to that oil. I agree that any feedback the OP gets in this thread is going to be VERY limited in facts. Without proper testing no one has any idea what is really happening in their motor and no clue how well their oil is performing.

OP - is there a reason you are so stuck on Mobil 1? There are lots of other good synthetics to use where you don't have to use the Sohn adapter.

Other good Synthetics where you don't have to use Sohn Adapters?
Ie RP?
Any others that you would say are good synthetics and do not require SOHN Adapters?


And are these Synthetics API SL and ILSAC GF-3? The description of FULL SYNTHETIC is abit broad? Labelling, Marketing? Isn't the grade of the oil most important? Hence API SL and ILSAC GF-3.


Mobil 1 meets exactly the required grade in the owners manaul. No where in the manual does it say "DO NOT USE SYTHETICS"? Only states "RECOMMENDED Mazda Oil"


I'm not defending my choice but just want see why would you say one SYTHETIC is better than another?

There is no synthetic that would make the SOHN unnecessary. The SOHN is just a device that allows you to inject clean premix (NOT DIRTY ENGINE OIL THAT IS NOT DESIGNED TO BURN) No synthetic motor oil stacks up as good as a synthetic premix and rightfully so because synthetic motor oil is not designed to be burned and synthetic premix is.

I can see it now, my eyes playing tricks on me. I swear it looked like a rx7 series 5!

Since ILSAC GF-3 has been around since 2001 I don't have any reason to suspect that these synthetics would not meet that requirement.

The issue is the fact that no two synthetic brands of oil are alike. Mineral oils for the most part all share the same base stock of oil and as such the only difference between them is their additive package. Synthetics are designed from the ground up with specific characteristics in mind and thus they tend to differ from brand to brand.

The "grade" as you describe it is simply a certification or rating. Most oils meet the API standard rating but the base stock of oil tends to be the most important followed up by the actual additive packages.

I see what you mean with Synthetics not being made to burn and the requirement of the SOHN adapter to inject clean premix to be burnt.

But why has Mazda not essentially stated in writting that "DO NOT USE SYNTHETICS OIL AT ALL"

I'll read more and try and get a better understanding of this all. I want to use Sythetic oil to provide better protection for my engine in the coming Aussie Summer.

Well because all synthetics are different and they have no way of testing them all in the rotary so its easier to say just not to use them. For all we know some may not be good for the rotary. they are recommending one in Japan that they claim is specially formulated but who knows. Premix directly injected is the best bet IMO.

*white flag* I will use vegetable oil now LOL.

Really it all depends on how long you plan on keeping teh car. If your the type that changes cars every couple of years then just run a decent synthetic and premix in the gas.

Thanks again, without a SOHN adapter which syn oil would you use then?

IF you HAD TOO use one and you couldn't pick RP! lol

Well, that's tough to say but Eneos, Redline, Amsoil, then maybe Mobil 1, GC.

The point is that every synthetic mixes with fuel in a different manner. There are synthetics that mix very well, like RP and such and others that don't, like the mobil 1.
Then there are the oil groups but i can't vouch in saying if a group iv is better than a group V :)

BUMP.

Anyone comment on CASTROL EDGE 5w30?

A "good burning" Synthetic oil compared to Mobil 1?

Let me check but I don't think Castrol Edge is a "true" synthetic.

Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 is the essence for virtually all that’s modern and technically advanced. Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 is an advanced full synthetic high performance motor oil recommended for highly tuned four cylinder engines and the latest technology vehicles requiring a low viscosity oil. *FROM CASTROL's WEBSITE" But doesn't mean it is a "true synthetic" hmmmmm

Did some reading, depending where the hell you live Castrol have labeled things differently?

I'm In Sydney, Australia. Apparently the Castrol EDGE here is the same as Castrol SYNTEC in the states which is a group III based oil?

The only true PAO based Castrol is the one in Germany?

OH MAN this is so freaking confusing!

Yeah I thought only German Castrol 0W-30 was the only PAO based group IV or V "true' synthetic. I think Edge is a Group III which would put it out of the league of RP or Mobil 1. RP is better than Mobil 1 but the question is what do you need? If you change your oil as scheduled I don't think RP is needed. But if you can afford it, what the hell. Personally I cannot justify the extra cost of RP. But some say pay now or pay later.

Yea, I change oil every 5000KM's (3000miles). I got some Castrol Edge 5w30 for really really CHEAP. I don't have to use it in my car, but will a group III be that bad for a rotary?

Wouldn't it be fine?

I'm using Mobil 1 now 5w30 and don't think the Castrol Edge is crappier oil?

No it will be fine, it's good stuff but just not as good as the other two you were asking about.

There are no really "bad" oils provided they are API certified. Even the oils that are not usually are race oils which are special purpose.

Being that all oils must have SM API certification, that means they all have to perform to some basic standard which is a pretty good one. I guess you could say there are good oils and better oils.

In my opinion, the major problem with Group III oils is they require viscosity modifiers to get them to function as multi-viscosity oils. Since it's an additive it will wear out over the course of the oil life.

Synthetics by their design don't require modifiers so they don't have that issue. They have a longer service life as well as a higher temperature threshold before breaking down. The flip side is they have a higher cost.

As long as you mantain a good service interval you'll be fine with whatever oil you choose. Some are better than others but you're not going to find a truely crappy oil.

olive oil duh

Okay, I did some research on Castrol Edge and according to what I found it is a PAO based synthetic. This is based on calls made to Castrol by BITOG. It is also the oil used in the Bugatti Veyron. Hmmmmmmm...... Good stuff.

This is a long thread but member "Doug Hillary" has worked professionally in the developement of some Castrol products so he knows his stuff.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1194403&page=1

And about the Veyron:

http://www.businesswireindia.com/fee...=10977&India=Y

Castrol's Edge is a Group IV (finally?) Synthetic.

Is it worth the premium ? maybe.

If they have heavier weight I will get it, but they only have Xw30 crap. so nope. not right now

*edited* damn, didnt see the last post. so now you know what it is now. :)

Keep in mind that Mobil has changed their 5w30/10w30 from Group IV to ... III.

Cost reduction, Thanks to BP/Castrol for screwing everybody up.

5w20, 0w40, 15w50 are still "Real deal" right now.

I got 2 more cases of 5w30, no biggie, I paid 20 bux for 6 quarts. not bad for good Group III oil I guess ? when Im done with it, Im switching to all Eneos/RP/RL

Yeah I'm all over the place. I'm disappointed with UOA on this GC and then I went to Advance Auto parts to buy some crap to do my SOHN adapter and they had 5 qts of Mobil1 and filter for $29.00 so I picked up 5 qts of 0W-40.

So now I'm reading about Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula and I like what I find. I might just switch anyway but I have always had good luck with Castrol so I don't know. But then my dad swears by Mobil 1 and his last three trucks (Xterra, Jeep XJ, and Titan) went (are) well over 150k without issue.

And yes, I do realize I am being ridiculous about my oil choices.

well, Mobil used to be one of the few "honest" .... should I use that word? Anyway, one of the company thats "honest" about their "Synthetic" line.

but after years of being "rape" by BP and their bullshit Syntec, they just have to give up and lower some of their "Synthetic" from GRP IV to III ... *sigh*

0w40 is still fine, but I would try to stay away from their 5/10w30 stuff.

royal purple ftwwwwww

$10.99/Qt FTL!

I think Royal Purple is reasonable at Amazon since no sales tax and free super saver shipping, but not gonna help someone outside of US.

Ok, like marcusvong i'm also from OZ.
I have a 2004 Renesis with 58K.
Engine replaced at 6k, under warranty, by previous owner.(crack in one of the rotary casings)
I intend to keep it as long as possible.
The dealer said mineral oil only ie Rotary API SL 5W30. (which now sounds like crap, as reading other forums etc, this oil can actually shorten the engine life).
I purchased a 5 litre container when i found out they like to drink a little oil for in between services, guess i'll be tossing that.
I know nothing about oils.:Wconfused

So what would you
a) recommend in the synthetic sphere as the crank case oil.
(do you get the same service intervals as Mazda
recommends ie 10Km)
b) Name brand/type of injected additive using the
SOHN Adapter route

Or (preferably)

c) The premix route
I've read that Penzoil Marine Full Synthetic 2 cycle oil
mixed with Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube at 50/50 then
mixed into the gas tank at a ratio of about 200:1.

Will this premix work with the crank case oil you recommend.

Do not use any marine oils to premix. Idemitsu and Protek-R are specifically designed for rotary engines. Amsoil Saber Pro is a good premix and Marvel Mystery Oil seems to work fine and is readily available. Never use Marine oils.

The use of marine stuff is debatable, there is no conclusive evidence that is is bad. TC3W supposedly kills cat converters though.

I am pretty sure Protek - R is re branded Polaris 2 stroke oil (klotz, same makers of MMO I think), not specifically designed for rotaries but decent stuff none the less. I remember some old discussions at rx7club.com from back in the day. If my memory serves me correct.

1. Install SOHN adapter and fill reservoir with good synthetic ashless 2 stroke oil
2. Premix fuel with good synthetic ashless 2 stroke oil.
3. Fill engine with good synthetic 30W or 40W oil.
4. Change oil as often as you can afford because quite a bit stays behind as we have recently learned in the oil pan and oil coolers and lines.

Woops, forgot about that. Yes, Protek-R is re branded Polaris. Pettit loves the stuff. As for marine oils, we can agree to disagree how debatable it actually is ;)

If you have time this is one of the many interesting reads.

http://www.sea-doo.net/techarticles/oil/oil.htm

From my understanding, Marine Oils have additives that are bad for our cat. If you have a mid pipe or are looking for an excuse to get one, marine oil should be ok.