haha...sorry bout that...I was just messin' with you. Redlining the rx8 is perfectly fine...trust me I was the same way before I started redlining....but once I did redline, it was soo much fun...and it keeps the carbon out of the motor :)

^ They speak the truth! Redline atleast once a day

Maybe it's just me but I was eager to redline the shit out of mine when I got it..

I feel bad if I don't redline mine every single drive. Not just once in awhile. Everytime.

Haha Im searching for one to buy... and while out on the test drive BEEEEEEEEEEEEEP... The sales man was like WTF!!! I laughed and told him I did them a favor...

Its funny because its true.

Yea, I know... He thought I broke it haha. The whole time we were driving I was teaching him about the car. It was actually funny how little he knew (and he is the salesman)!

Thats normal... While my car was being fixed at the dealer I watched the sales man take out someone in an rx8 during test drive. Right after started up the guy floored it on the road about 10 seconds after getting out of the parking lot. A total of 15 second warm up.. I just shook my head

Redline it at every stop light in first gear, it's fun to hear the motor wind up while a Ford Focus passes you.

Oh, and ONE headsup before you go redlining all willy nilly...

Warm the engine up before redlining it. Get the engine temp to the middle for 5 minutes at least, otherwise you ARE doing damage.

Then once the engine is nice and warm, redline it all willy nilly.

Thanks everyone -- is it best to let it warm up for a few minutes before driving? And then, before it gets "warm", how hard is to hard to drive it?

I have had the check engine light come on twice (in two weeks), and it always comes on if I drive fast (not even high RPM's) when it is just starting to creep out of the "cold" area -- and it has been my gas cap both times :)

Redline mode activates the Flux Capacitor's 1.21 gigawatts

It will limit you in RPM until temp gets to about 158 degrees. Anyway, don't push the car(keep it under 3500rpm) until your idiot temp gauge reaches just about where it normally sits.
So.....yes...........let it warm up before you get on it!


Oh.....and it's just ne, but I never like redlining in 1st gear anyway. I may accelerate fast in 1st, but I usually only redline in 2nd, 3rd.

Wait until the temp gauge gets to just about middle and wait 5-10 minutes before redlining it. Keep RPM's under 4k until then.

Now thats funny :rollingla:yelrotflm

lol I love how people exaggerate how slow the car is. Your gonna get alot of check engine lights...dont be too scared. Start reading up on the "usual" issues with the car. First thing your gonna get a check engine is when your coolant reservoir sensor goes out...then misfires. Dont get too scared with you get the light, its kind of normal.

#1: Redline is only limited in newer RX-8s, I'm not sure what year they implemented the "warm-up cutoff" but I would guess 2007 or so. Earlier models will let you redline from a cold start if you want to, not that it's good for the engine...

#2: Normal acceleration (not flooring it) should be okay up to 5000-6000 RPM or so, even when the engine is cold. That's why the newer models put the "cold engine" electronically-controlled redline at 7500.

And red-line in 2nd is around 60 MPH which is okay, but 3rd gear is 90 MPH which you should probably not be doing on public roads. 1st gear is easy to red-line on any average city street, and you don't even have to be a douchebag and floor it while you're red-lining. It is possible to redline at a normal acceleration pace, though flooring it on a low-traffic country road or highway on-ramp is the most fun!

i talked to a salesman who didn't know what a supercharger was....that that in ur pipe and smoke it :wiggle:

I used to sell honda's for a short stint, argued forever with all of my fellow employees if a GTI Jetta trade in was turbo or not....One of the managers went so far as to tell me that he looked under the hood and it wasn't there. I dragged him out and had to point at it and explain what and how about turbo's. (Had to go so far because caught an employee trying to sell the vehicle as a gas saving vehicle that can run 83 octane....very not ok as back of the book says 91 or higher.)

i got mine to 20k rpm, the rpm needle did a 360 niggas

So... I redlined my new 8 for the first time today after reading this thread. Made it beep at me a little.

Anyway, felt good and sounded better. Plus it really does launch when you throw it into the next gear.

Yeow!!!!

So, I've had this car for 6 days now and I'm lovin' it. I also really like the fact that I haven't seen another one on the road since I got it. My last car was an Altima and every other car on the road it seems like is a freakin' Altima. They're good cars though, I was going to get a new coupe but I ran across this great deal on the 8. Now I'm hooked.

Oh yeah, car was a dealer demo with 3,800 miles on it so it is past the break in period, even though I've only had it 6 days. I did read the manual. ;-)

2005 with a limiter here. Ran into it one day last winter when I was preoccupied with some work while driving home. Hit some ice, rpm's took off, rev limiter stepped in around 5000 or so.

Couldn't one argue it's better to get up to 7,000 rpm (all the ports are opened) a few times a day than actually getting it to redline just once a day?

I mean I can't imagine there'd be more carbon in a rx-8 that sees 7000 rpm numerous time a day and usually cruises at 4,000 rpm than a rx-8 that sees 9500 rpm once a day and cruises at <3000 rpm.

The last ports don't open until 7200 rpm, and you will need to be a WOT when you get if you expect to keep the carbon deposits at bay. The rpm's gage reads about 200 high (verified this with my AP), so you need to go through 7400 or so at WOT, might as well run all the way to 8700 indicated, where the power starts dropping off.

I'm gonna guess that bringing it up higher than 7000 rpms means there's more exhaust forcing out the ports? That's the only thing cleaning up the carbon on the ports anyways.

For carbon buildup on the trailing plug, that's by the passing motion of the rotor I believe. I don't know if that has a rpm requirement.