preventing loss of compression
12-10-2011, 09:32 AM
#26
Eh, it's possible that it was just bad luck or a crappy previous owner. We've been seeing more 2006+ engines fail as they reach higher mileage. I have a feeling that this was just part of that trend.
I was one of those guys that was always saying, "My RX-8 has been fine because I always do the following...." I think anyone with more than 50k miles should get a compression test done. Thankfully, the engine was replaced in a 2 days by the local Mazda dealership.
12-10-2011, 05:48 PM
#27
Registered
From the Mazda RX-8 Owners Club UK.....
A recent post with advice and tips from rotary specialist Carl Hayward from Hayward Rotaries UK
Post subject: RX8 longer life maintenance
I thought I would put up a few things that may help to lengthen the life of your RX8 and it's engine regarding maintenace. Alot of people likely will know these things already and maybe have slightly differing opinions so this is just a guide based on my own personal experience and does not mean that it is the only valid information.
1. I suggest that oil be changed far more often than the service intervals, every 6000 miles or MORE often. The reasons for this are that not all oil leaves the engine or entire oil system when oil is drained, and also every engine we pull apart has bearing wear which can be caused by dirty oil.
2. Oil type I suggest using a 10/40 or 15/40 mineral, again due to the bearing wear we are seeing in these engines which have the same bearings as previous rotaries that ran 10/40 Mineral oil with no issues regarding bearing wear.Also mineral oil burns cleaner and creates less deposits that can makes the seals in the engine stick.(My view of this comes from seeing the internals of alot of engines!)
3. Check oil level regularly, it only needs one episode of low oil to cause a major issue mechanically,that issue may not show up immediately but the damage has been done. DONT wait for the oil light to come on.
4. Change the spark plugs more often than service intervals as keeping the ignition in top condition really helps the engine to last longer due to better starting and less unburnt fuel washing around in the engine when cranking and the like.It also makes Cat replacement less likely.
5. Change coils at around 40,000 miles and when doing so change plug leads too.Also put some rubber insulation engine the coils so that they are less able to Arc out on the metal plate they are mounted too.This too makes cat replacement less likely.
6. Waxoyl/underseal the car as the these cars are prone to rust and prevention is better than cure
7. When changing coolant check that it is compatible with iron and aluminium,we use longlife antifreeze, Halfords do a 5 year one which is very good.
8. Dont do lots of short jouneys if you can help it, or if you have a pretty short commutor run then once a week take a longer detour to give the engine a good run, this keeps seals from sticking so easily.
9. Warm up engine well before revving it hard, this allows the mix of iron and Aluminium parts in the engine to expand uniformly and reduces wear,it is not necessary to redline the engine every trip, or even at all, but using good revs and full throttle when warm is good each time you drive.
These are some tips, but others may like to offer some more.
Hope that this proves helpful.
Regards
Carl
http://www.mazdarotary.co.uk/engines.asp
A recent post with advice and tips from rotary specialist Carl Hayward from Hayward Rotaries UK
Post subject: RX8 longer life maintenance
I thought I would put up a few things that may help to lengthen the life of your RX8 and it's engine regarding maintenace. Alot of people likely will know these things already and maybe have slightly differing opinions so this is just a guide based on my own personal experience and does not mean that it is the only valid information.
1. I suggest that oil be changed far more often than the service intervals, every 6000 miles or MORE often. The reasons for this are that not all oil leaves the engine or entire oil system when oil is drained, and also every engine we pull apart has bearing wear which can be caused by dirty oil.
2. Oil type I suggest using a 10/40 or 15/40 mineral, again due to the bearing wear we are seeing in these engines which have the same bearings as previous rotaries that ran 10/40 Mineral oil with no issues regarding bearing wear.Also mineral oil burns cleaner and creates less deposits that can makes the seals in the engine stick.(My view of this comes from seeing the internals of alot of engines!)
3. Check oil level regularly, it only needs one episode of low oil to cause a major issue mechanically,that issue may not show up immediately but the damage has been done. DONT wait for the oil light to come on.
4. Change the spark plugs more often than service intervals as keeping the ignition in top condition really helps the engine to last longer due to better starting and less unburnt fuel washing around in the engine when cranking and the like.It also makes Cat replacement less likely.
5. Change coils at around 40,000 miles and when doing so change plug leads too.Also put some rubber insulation engine the coils so that they are less able to Arc out on the metal plate they are mounted too.This too makes cat replacement less likely.
6. Waxoyl/underseal the car as the these cars are prone to rust and prevention is better than cure
7. When changing coolant check that it is compatible with iron and aluminium,we use longlife antifreeze, Halfords do a 5 year one which is very good.
8. Dont do lots of short jouneys if you can help it, or if you have a pretty short commutor run then once a week take a longer detour to give the engine a good run, this keeps seals from sticking so easily.
9. Warm up engine well before revving it hard, this allows the mix of iron and Aluminium parts in the engine to expand uniformly and reduces wear,it is not necessary to redline the engine every trip, or even at all, but using good revs and full throttle when warm is good each time you drive.
These are some tips, but others may like to offer some more.
Hope that this proves helpful.
Regards
Carl
http://www.mazdarotary.co.uk/engines.asp
12-10-2011, 05:54 PM
#28
From the Mazda RX-8 Owners Club UK.....
A recent post with advice and tips from rotary specialist Carl Hayward from Hayward Rotaries UK
Post subject: RX8 longer life maintenance
[I]2. Oil type I suggest using a 10/40 or 15/40 mineral, again due to the bearing wear we are seeing in these engines which have the same bearings as previous rotaries that ran 10/40 Mineral oil with no issues regarding bearing wear.Also mineral oil burns cleaner and creates less deposits that can makes the seals in the engine stick.(My view of this comes from seeing the internals of alot of engines!) WTF? Mineral burns cleaner than synthetic? Come on...
A recent post with advice and tips from rotary specialist Carl Hayward from Hayward Rotaries UK
Post subject: RX8 longer life maintenance
[I]2. Oil type I suggest using a 10/40 or 15/40 mineral, again due to the bearing wear we are seeing in these engines which have the same bearings as previous rotaries that ran 10/40 Mineral oil with no issues regarding bearing wear.Also mineral oil burns cleaner and creates less deposits that can makes the seals in the engine stick.(My view of this comes from seeing the internals of alot of engines!) WTF? Mineral burns cleaner than synthetic? Come on...
12-10-2011, 06:06 PM
#29
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That's some general good sense Rudolph but the part that I quoted is just bullshit. Our (EUDM) service intervals are just stupid and aimed to put the rx8 in comparison with other GTs when it comes to maintenance. Yes, he is right in what he says but saying that synthetic oils burn worse than mineral ones... You can't really believe it!
(ha ha ha)
12-10-2011, 06:09 PM
#30
12-10-2011, 06:31 PM
#31
Registered
12-10-2011, 06:37 PM
#32
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
The main point I glean from R's post is that the wear he's seeing is from dirty oil.
Abrasion wear is absolute proof that the oil (and the filter) is too old and past their useful life.
Abrasion wear is absolute proof that the oil (and the filter) is too old and past their useful life.
12-11-2011, 04:07 AM
#33
12-11-2011, 06:23 PM
#34
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Also, what is the scoop on the 8 yr. or 100k engine compression warranty? I am getting mixed info. I have a 2004 original sale from local dealer dated 5/18/04.
12-11-2011, 07:11 PM
#35
Seafoam to the gas tank or into the oil? OK, so I am a blond chick & the can directions give me the option to add it to either. Help this blond wahine!
Also, what is the scoop on the 8 yr. or 100k engine compression warranty? I am getting mixed info. I have a 2004 original sale from local dealer dated 5/18/04.
Also, what is the scoop on the 8 yr. or 100k engine compression warranty? I am getting mixed info. I have a 2004 original sale from local dealer dated 5/18/04.
Read the "8 year/ 100 000mi extended warranty" thread. The warranty begins at first sale. Not when the car was made. So, you're good until 100k mi, or 5/18/12 (which ever comes first)
12-11-2011, 07:15 PM
#36
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Saw you in this thread(Soldier) so I didn't really bother.
But......now........here's the official warranty letter and the link to the DIY he referenced.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-mazda-zoom-power-engine-cleaner-engine-cleaning-seaform-142852/
Last edited by Mazurfer; 12-11-2011 at 07:21 PM.
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