BigBenb84

For statistic sake I'll say my 2009 R3 makes this sound from behind the glove box/console too, when in high rpms. I'm only at 1800 miles so I'll wait till 3000 when I get the oil changed at the dealer to complain.

I'm wondering what the possible downside is to installing this restrictor. Maybe it'll explain why Mazda quit putting the valve in shortly after production.

ASH8

MMmm, the Part they use is actually 1992 FD RX-7 specific (first time used), and is used in some diesel Mazda heater circuits.

Cost maybe?, but I am thinking Heater performance, with a restrictor there is a slower coolant flow into the heater core, so longer heating up times in cabin?.

Lane03

Thanks ASH8 for the diagram, I have added it to the first post to try and keep all pertinent information in one place.

tmak26b

This is funny because the 04 parts diagram does not show that part anymore!!!!

http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs/RX/04rx8.pdf (see page #226), good catch Ash

csracer

I got my coolant restrictor orifice today p/n F100-61-E09. here is what it looks like. It is 17.5mm OD, 7mm ID and 10mm long.

BigBenb84

Where did you get it? How much? Did you install it yet? Results?

csracer

I ordered mine from onlinemazdaparts.com (Montgomery Mazda) They have a banner ad here on the forum. The part was $3.97. Shipping was 6.50 from North Carolina to Michigan, but I ordered some other supplies too. I haven't installed it yet because I cant get up the motivation to go work on the car in this 30 F weather. Based on others experiences, I am confident that this will fix the noise problem.

ODDDOOD

iTrader: (3)

sub'd.

I have a very early model '04 (I bought new in Nov. '03) so based on this thread it seems that part should be installed on my car. however, I hear the coolant cavitation nearly everyday soon after starting and blip the throttle (gurgling and bubbly sounding). Maybe I'll do this one eventually.

CelticFan

Anyone got a picture of the exact hose this fits in? My dealer wont do anything about it and says that they can't listen to what people say on the internet. While I understand that I can't see why they wont call Mazda and even ask them if this is something that works to fix the problem.

I've got the part and I've looked at the diagram posted before. But an actual picture of the exact place to put it would make me feel a little better about it all.

Mazurfer

Sorry.....no picture from me. Looking at the diagram though, once you locate the right hose, it looks to go right at the lower hose clamp.

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...29708#poststop

CelticFan

Dumb question here. This picture must be for a right hand drive RX-8? My hose (61-219A) coming from the firewall into the metal hose (61-2D1) that runs against the firewall and then hooks up to the hose (61-212) you put the orifice in runs the other way than this picture.
And if I'm seeing this correctly then you put the orifice at the bottom of the hose at the engine block?

Razz1

So they say they have too much water which is causing bubbles.

That ferrel will create a vortex and make the coolant flow faster. The restriction will reduce or elimate the air.

MikeBusch2

I finally decided to install the orifice, despite it being 30 degrees outside. The orifice completely cured my MIAC. I could probably do it all in under 20 minutes, now that I know where everything is going and what tools are needed. Basically, the steps involved are as follows:

-Remove engine cover
-remove the battery box cover (two tabs behind box)
-remove battery (loosen the two 10mm nuts on the battery bracket, but don't fully remove them or the "j" bolts could fall straight through. Loosening the nut until it's flush with the end of the bolt will suffice. Also, the battery terminals are 10mm.)
-Remove the upper half of the battery box. It's snapped on along the perimeter of the box. Just push the walls while lifting on them and it should pop off.
-With the upper half of the battery box removed, you will now have access to the hose the orifice goes into. It's the ~1-inch hose closest to the serpentine belt. With pliers, compress the tabs on the hose clamp and slide it down the hose. The hose will be "stuck" to the outlet, so you may have to grab the hose with some channel-locks and work it back and forth a bit to break the seal.
-Remove the hose. You will lose a little coolant, but as long as the engine is cool, you won't have any spray and the losses will be minimal. I stuffed a clean shop towel into the opening to keep it from dripping. Perhaps a good use for one of those feminine sanitary devices....:p.
-Slide the orifice into the hose. I used the handle of my ratchet to stuff it down into it. By my estimation, you only need to get it far enough down the hose to not prevent the hose from sliding back onto the outlet completely, maybe 1-1/4" or so. If the orifice twists a bit sideways (which it likely will), just slide a screwdriver through the center opening and pry on it until the orifice is straight.
-reinstall the hose, the upper half of the battery box, the battery, battery bracket, the battery cover, and the engine cover.
-Congrats. Enjoy your 9500 RPM without sounding like someone's mixing up a frozen daiquiri in your glove box.

Razz1

Did you know alot of owners have burped their baby?

And now the problem is gone.

Get the car on an incline and open the raditor cap when car is cold. Let here run at idle until she begin to over heat.

Lane03

Could a mod please change the title of this thread to: "Fix for rattling noise from behind dash/glove box at 6k+ rpm. MIAC?"

I think that this would be a more appropriate title now with all the new info, and it would help future owners find it in a search. Perhaps a sticky or link in the FAQ would be warranted as well.

MikeBusch2

I did that when I changed my coolant last summer, didn't make any noticeable difference.

I'm not saying it doesn't fix the issue for some people, I'm sure it does, it just didn't fix it for me.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

Is this just a sound problem? I mean, would putting this restrictor affect cooling performance at high RPM's because there is now less coolant flow?

BigBenb84

I asked basically the same thing up in post #51, and ASH answered me in post #52 with his best guess.

kingaaron

iTrader: (1)

Can someone please take a picture of the actual heater hose? It would really help me. Thanks

MikeBusch2

I'll get a picture some time today. You'll kick yourself over how simple this thing is to install....

Edit: Here's the hose the orifice goes in.....like I said, to gain access, you'll have to remove the battery.

kingaaron

iTrader: (1)

Thanks that clears it up for me!

CelticFan

It's really easy to do. I've got a broken wrist right now and it's my good hand. So I couldn't pull on the hose well enough with my left hand to break it free. Had to take the battery box all the way out to get a good grip on it. Even with one hand I did it in 20 min.

I did notice that my brand new 09 car with less than 2K on it had a leak in the battery when I was doing this. And it had leaked all over the lower bolt of the batter box and onto the support it bolts on eating the paint off. I fixed all that stuff myself and then made Mazda put in a new battery for me. Going to keep and eye on this from now on.

kingaaron

iTrader: (1)

Thanks again MikeBusch2, I was able to put it in thanks to your picture. No more miac!

MikeBusch2

Very welcome, kingaaron! Glad it worked for you.

Lane03

Thanks MikeBusch2 for the photo. I have added it to the original post.