OEM rebuilt backorder?
05-30-2018, 07:27 PM
#1
OEM rebuilt backorder?
Is anyone else stuck in limbo as to when new rebuilt motors will be available? It sounds like they are at least a few weeks away at this point? I’ve heard June 21st, but I’m wondering if others are hearing the same thing.
05-31-2018, 07:42 AM
#3
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
Posts: 3,606
Received 649 Likes
on
510 Posts
I was told by the dealer I bought my reman from this spring that I got the last one in the Chicago warehouse.
I figured he was just making smalltalk but it sounds like he might have been right.
I figured he was just making smalltalk but it sounds like he might have been right.
05-31-2018, 10:08 AM
#5
06-01-2018, 08:56 AM
#6
06-05-2018, 10:31 AM
#8
Registered
Just sorted out my engine from the local dealer this afternoon. They gave me a new date of June 28th, 2018 for the engine to be available. He warned it could slide into July, just depends on how quickly they can get them over from J-A-Pan.
As much as I'd love to open it up and check tolerances, I'm just going to run it and follow up with comp. tests. I want the car on the road sooner rather than later.
As much as I'd love to open it up and check tolerances, I'm just going to run it and follow up with comp. tests. I want the car on the road sooner rather than later.
Last edited by furansu; 06-05-2018 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Updated to reflect information I received on 6/5/2018
06-05-2018, 05:33 PM
#9
Just sorted out my engine from the local dealer this afternoon. They gave me a new date of June 28th, 2018 for the engine to be available. He warned it could slide into July, just depends on how quickly they can get them over from J-A-Pan.
As much as I'd love to open it up and check tolerances, I'm just going to run it and follow up with comp. tests. I want the car on the road sooner rather than later.
As much as I'd love to open it up and check tolerances, I'm just going to run it and follow up with comp. tests. I want the car on the road sooner rather than later.
06-05-2018, 08:54 PM
#10
Registered
06-07-2018, 10:12 AM
#13
Registered
I ordered the manual 6-port engine, though I intend to run a lightened flywheel -- might have made more sense to order the automatic 6-port as it'd already have the correct counterweights installed. :/
Last edited by furansu; 06-07-2018 at 10:16 AM.
06-08-2018, 09:05 PM
#15
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
The remand are still made in Mazda plant in Virginia USA
06-09-2018, 12:38 AM
#16
Registered
Added information I found from an article that affirms as such.
Mazda first opened the plant in May 2008 to rebuild rotary-powered engines for its RX-8 sports car. Last year, the plant produced more than 5,000 remanufactured engines.
Originally Posted by Richmond Times
- John Reid Blackwell
- Jul 29, 2011
Mazda first opened the plant in May 2008 to rebuild rotary-powered engines for its RX-8 sports car. Last year, the plant produced more than 5,000 remanufactured engines.
Last edited by furansu; 06-09-2018 at 12:46 AM.
06-22-2018, 10:46 AM
#17
Registered
My engine arrived at the dealer yesterday. The box indicated that it was assembled/left the factory on June 7th, 2018.
I'm happy to report that it included a new thermostat and the external gasket set in addition to the expected flywheel and water pump.
It looks like it could be all new parts, though the rotor housings seem to be an off-color from the front cover, which seems like new aluminum. Not sure if they are just a different alloy (thus the color difference) or if the housings are used/refurbished. I tend to take high-res images, so it should zoom upon click, if you are interested in greater detail.
I'm happy to report that it included a new thermostat and the external gasket set in addition to the expected flywheel and water pump.
It looks like it could be all new parts, though the rotor housings seem to be an off-color from the front cover, which seems like new aluminum. Not sure if they are just a different alloy (thus the color difference) or if the housings are used/refurbished. I tend to take high-res images, so it should zoom upon click, if you are interested in greater detail.
06-22-2018, 11:42 AM
#18
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
Posts: 3,606
Received 649 Likes
on
510 Posts
Good to hear! That's a very familiar sight for me.
My reman also included a new water pump, t-stat, flywheel, and gasket set.
I would expect it's more likely to have a refurbed front cover and new housings than the other way around. Given the very different functions of the parts, your idea that they are different Al alloys isn't out of the question.
Some thoughts from my recent reman install:
The threads on one of the oil injector ports on mine was a little chowdered up and I decided to very carefully run a tap down the hole to clean it up. I recommend you check yours out very carefully by hand threading an injector into each. Just start them with your fingers and then take a socket (without a socket wrench!) and thread it all the way down. It may be a tight fit (new threads sometimes are) but should twist in smoothly.
Also, take a MityVac handpump to your oil injectors. All of them should hold close to 10 psi with less than 0.39 psi loss per minute.
METERING OIL PUMP INSPECTION
Do a similar test with your vacuum solenoids and vacuum actuators.
This is also a good time to upgrade the oil pressure regulator. I installed the Mazmart regulator and used the Pineapple Racing oil pan gasket so I didn't have to mess around with RTV.
My reman also included a new water pump, t-stat, flywheel, and gasket set.
I would expect it's more likely to have a refurbed front cover and new housings than the other way around. Given the very different functions of the parts, your idea that they are different Al alloys isn't out of the question.
Some thoughts from my recent reman install:
The threads on one of the oil injector ports on mine was a little chowdered up and I decided to very carefully run a tap down the hole to clean it up. I recommend you check yours out very carefully by hand threading an injector into each. Just start them with your fingers and then take a socket (without a socket wrench!) and thread it all the way down. It may be a tight fit (new threads sometimes are) but should twist in smoothly.
Also, take a MityVac handpump to your oil injectors. All of them should hold close to 10 psi with less than 0.39 psi loss per minute.
METERING OIL PUMP INSPECTION
Do a similar test with your vacuum solenoids and vacuum actuators.
This is also a good time to upgrade the oil pressure regulator. I installed the Mazmart regulator and used the Pineapple Racing oil pan gasket so I didn't have to mess around with RTV.
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 06-22-2018 at 11:46 AM.
06-22-2018, 01:17 PM
#20
Registered
Yep, series 1 (no third/central oil injector). I was considering a lightweight flywheel (loved the RacingBeat one I had on my FD), but the added cost and PITA-factor to removing the current flywheel has put me off for now. I'm going to focus on reliability mods (SOHN, alu radiator, possibly a metal AST/coolant bottle, etc).
06-22-2018, 02:52 PM
#21
Registered
Anyone fit an FD pressure regulator on a Renesis? They ran 110psi stock. I like the idea of using a regulator as intended with no shimming, if it is compatible.
06-23-2018, 09:04 PM
#22
Good to hear! That's a very familiar sight for me.
My reman also included a new water pump, t-stat, flywheel, and gasket set.
I would expect it's more likely to have a refurbed front cover and new housings than the other way around. Given the very different functions of the parts, your idea that they are different Al alloys isn't out of the question.
Some thoughts from my recent reman install:
The threads on one of the oil injector ports on mine was a little chowdered up and I decided to very carefully run a tap down the hole to clean it up. I recommend you check yours out very carefully by hand threading an injector into each. Just start them with your fingers and then take a socket (without a socket wrench!) and thread it all the way down. It may be a tight fit (new threads sometimes are) but should twist in smoothly.
Also, take a MityVac handpump to your oil injectors. All of them should hold close to 10 psi with less than 0.39 psi loss per minute.
METERING OIL PUMP INSPECTION
Do a similar test with your vacuum solenoids and vacuum actuators.
This is also a good time to upgrade the oil pressure regulator. I installed the Mazmart regulator and used the Pineapple Racing oil pan gasket so I didn't have to mess around with RTV.
My reman also included a new water pump, t-stat, flywheel, and gasket set.
I would expect it's more likely to have a refurbed front cover and new housings than the other way around. Given the very different functions of the parts, your idea that they are different Al alloys isn't out of the question.
Some thoughts from my recent reman install:
The threads on one of the oil injector ports on mine was a little chowdered up and I decided to very carefully run a tap down the hole to clean it up. I recommend you check yours out very carefully by hand threading an injector into each. Just start them with your fingers and then take a socket (without a socket wrench!) and thread it all the way down. It may be a tight fit (new threads sometimes are) but should twist in smoothly.
Also, take a MityVac handpump to your oil injectors. All of them should hold close to 10 psi with less than 0.39 psi loss per minute.
METERING OIL PUMP INSPECTION
Do a similar test with your vacuum solenoids and vacuum actuators.
This is also a good time to upgrade the oil pressure regulator. I installed the Mazmart regulator and used the Pineapple Racing oil pan gasket so I didn't have to mess around with RTV.
