New person to the club
11-07-2011, 08:42 PM
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New person to the club
Well here's a new enthusiest to the fourm! I test drove a rx8 the other day an totaly fell in love with it! It took turns like no other, an I loved ( as my mother did too) that it had a lot of airbags! Yes I am 17, an have ALOT to learn about these cars as i've read on this fourm. Knowing their rotory engines, an not knowing alot about them I'll have to learn, but I am willing to be a student. I have 5 grand saved in the bank an my parents are willing to double the money, so that puts me in the price range of some 8's, right? But I do know not to buy one with really high mileage being these engines aren't too reliable after 50k, an probaly will need some minor parts replaced. Wich I have the money stashed away for to get the car in tip top shape, so I wont need to worry about them down the road. But what are some buying tips? That whould be greatly appreciated! 
11-07-2011, 08:52 PM
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the engines are fine after 50k... in the end the rx 8 is a machine, its all up to the owner and how he takes care of the motor and the car itself. I have around 35k on mine 6 years old and not one single problem. not even a flooding. when shopping around make sure you have as much information on the maintenance that was done to the car. Gives you an idea how it was taken care of
11-07-2011, 08:53 PM
#3
New and Potential Owner’s, Start Here https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/
New Owner FAQ’s https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=FAQ
Also, make sure you read the “stickies” in each sub-forum
New Owner FAQ’s https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=FAQ
Also, make sure you read the “stickies” in each sub-forum
11-07-2011, 09:02 PM
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Yea I shoulda phrased it different, like all cars it depends on the last owner an how he/she cared for it. Like the 2005 ford focus i've been driving for the past year an a half (my dads car, but he's gone alot so I drove it more) has 110k on it an all the shops were shocked that it has that many miles on it, we just took care of it from day one. An yea I'm really interested in the maintenance records of the car so I know if it was truly taken care of.
11-07-2011, 09:05 PM
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New and Potential Owner’s, Start Here https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=202454
New Owner FAQ’s https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=FAQ
Also, make sure you read the “stickies” in each sub-forum
New Owner FAQ’s https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=FAQ
Also, make sure you read the “stickies” in each sub-forum
I was on a focus fourm before this, an relize that stickies are extreamly helpful!
11-07-2011, 10:32 PM
#7
Ease up a bit on correcting his grammar (at least until he settles in 
)
Welcome to the club man. If you're thinking about buying an '8 then be sure you know what to look for in terms of if it's a good deal and if it's in good mechanical condition. It's not that these cars are less reliable, it's just that they are more willing to bite back, so to speak, if not properly maintained. This forum is contains a vast wealth of knowledge and countless rotary engine seasoned experts so feel free to ask questions any time (just make sure you search first if you don't want to get flamed).
Again, welcome! Keep us updated with your search and such.
)Welcome to the club man. If you're thinking about buying an '8 then be sure you know what to look for in terms of if it's a good deal and if it's in good mechanical condition. It's not that these cars are less reliable, it's just that they are more willing to bite back, so to speak, if not properly maintained. This forum is contains a vast wealth of knowledge and countless rotary engine seasoned experts so feel free to ask questions any time (just make sure you search first if you don't want to get flamed).
Again, welcome! Keep us updated with your search and such.
11-07-2011, 11:12 PM
#8
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
10 grand is good enough for a down payment. Try getting a newer one with a low mileage (assuming its been taken cared of properly). Anyway, that will leave you some breathing room for lower monthly payments that you could afford to pay. Good luck whichever route you plan to choose.
11-08-2011, 05:01 PM
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I also just read that the cats or cat (however many are on the car) make some issues for the car. If that's true whould it be a good idea to just get rid of it when I get one?
11-08-2011, 05:14 PM
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SC doesn't have emissions, correct?
Yes, it's a good idea. It's an expensive part that is just there for emissions compliance, and if it fails it can continue to damage other stuff. Free up the power, eliminate a link in the snowballing-issues chain, and remove it. Only actually get rid of the cat from your possession if you know you will never need it again (such as re-selling the car)
You get what you pay for when it comes to catless options though, not all midpipes are the same, usually in terms of noise (and most just create "noise", not "sound"). Do your research before buying.
Yes, it's a good idea. It's an expensive part that is just there for emissions compliance, and if it fails it can continue to damage other stuff. Free up the power, eliminate a link in the snowballing-issues chain, and remove it. Only actually get rid of the cat from your possession if you know you will never need it again (such as re-selling the car)
You get what you pay for when it comes to catless options though, not all midpipes are the same, usually in terms of noise (and most just create "noise", not "sound"). Do your research before buying.
11-08-2011, 06:28 PM
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Yea South Carolina dosnt have emissions, and also another question. I've read coutless threads on the dreaded "flooding" issue, and still cant come to grips of what it actually is. Is it just like a lawn mower? How when it floods you have to pull the plug an clean it an its back to normal? If thats all it is it dosn't SOUND too bad...
11-08-2011, 06:45 PM
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Yes, it's just like flooding a lawn mower. Too much fuel to ignite in the combustion chamber, and/or soaked plugs.
However, it's a bit more severe in terms of impact than a lawn mower's is. My New Owner's thread linked above details out how little of a problem it should be.
However, it's a bit more severe in terms of impact than a lawn mower's is. My New Owner's thread linked above details out how little of a problem it should be.
11-08-2011, 06:59 PM
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Ok! Thank you all for the help! This weekend I'm going to look at a phantom blue one, only draw back that I see is that it has 124k miles on it..
11-08-2011, 07:33 PM
#16
If you absolutely need to turn it on and move it like 10 feet, let it idle for a few minutes before turning it off.
So bad would be car is cold, turn car on, move car from garage to driveway, turn car off.
^- I did this by mistake one time....and one time only, like had a total lapse of thought that day and I did flood it.
Last edited by Bigbacon; 11-08-2011 at 07:41 PM.
11-08-2011, 07:54 PM
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I pointed you to the explanation.
Flooding:
Flooding is only a concern if you have a weak ignition system. The problem is, your ignition system usually fails very slowly, so it is a gradual decline. The alert and responsible owner will detect the drop in mileage, the drop in power, the rougher idle, the occasional misfire, and replace their coils, plugs, and wires before it gets bad enough where there is a chance at flooding.
Every single flood I have seen reported for quite a while ended up coming down to one of these failing: Battery, Starter, Coil(s), Plug Wire(s), Plug(s). But by then, they also generally have a fried cat that needs to get replaced as well, and possibly an O2 sensor or two. Stay on top of the maintenance (long term included!) and you will wonder what all the fuss was about. Coils ($160 for all 4, 20 minute swap), plugs ($80 for all 4, 10 minute swap), and wires ($60, 2 minute swap), should be replaced every 30,000 miles, possibly sooner if you detect something starting to fail, since people have had them fail as early as 8,000 miles or 15,000 miles, though that's rare.
You don't want to shut off while it's cold simply because when the engine is cold, the ECU dumps more fuel into engine to help it warm up, and it leans back once the engine is warm. This extra fuel can make it harder to start an ignition, which a healthy ignition system is perfectly capable of overcoming. Weaken the ignition with failing plugs, coils, wires, alternator, starter, or battery, and you have a flood on your hands, and all the associated problems from that.
Flooding:
Flooding is only a concern if you have a weak ignition system. The problem is, your ignition system usually fails very slowly, so it is a gradual decline. The alert and responsible owner will detect the drop in mileage, the drop in power, the rougher idle, the occasional misfire, and replace their coils, plugs, and wires before it gets bad enough where there is a chance at flooding.
Every single flood I have seen reported for quite a while ended up coming down to one of these failing: Battery, Starter, Coil(s), Plug Wire(s), Plug(s). But by then, they also generally have a fried cat that needs to get replaced as well, and possibly an O2 sensor or two. Stay on top of the maintenance (long term included!) and you will wonder what all the fuss was about. Coils ($160 for all 4, 20 minute swap), plugs ($80 for all 4, 10 minute swap), and wires ($60, 2 minute swap), should be replaced every 30,000 miles, possibly sooner if you detect something starting to fail, since people have had them fail as early as 8,000 miles or 15,000 miles, though that's rare.
You don't want to shut off while it's cold simply because when the engine is cold, the ECU dumps more fuel into engine to help it warm up, and it leans back once the engine is warm. This extra fuel can make it harder to start an ignition, which a healthy ignition system is perfectly capable of overcoming. Weaken the ignition with failing plugs, coils, wires, alternator, starter, or battery, and you have a flood on your hands, and all the associated problems from that.
11-09-2011, 09:06 PM
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Also, I've decided later down the road I want to turbo the engine. Im not asking for horsepower numbers just yet, but just the simple question of can you turbo a at? Because I was researching stuff about the 8 and came across a thread that made it sound like you can't turbo a At. Is that true?
12-06-2011, 03:53 PM
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Hey guys! I've been looking for an 8 for the last month or so now, turns out we dont have the money to down pay on a newer one. but I did find a 04 with 58k miles on it. http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory...&partner=ATD_W . Thoes are the carfax to it, could someone tell me if it looks to be in sound condition, plus does it still have the 8 year 100k mile warranty?
12-06-2011, 04:04 PM
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Basic 48 months or 50,000 miles Coverage expired
Drivetrain 48 months or 50,000 miles Coverage expired
Emissions 96 months or 80,000 miles 9 months or 28,463 miles
Corrosion 60 months or unlimited mileage Coverage expired
Transferable No cost, unlimited owners covered Same
Roadside Assistance No data reported to CARFAX
Safety belt & inflatable restraint No data reported to CARFAX
Specific Components 96 months or 80,000 miles 9 months or 28,463 miles
Notes: Emissions: Manufacturer covers emissions components under basic warranty. Emissions coverage may vary by state. Refer to owners manual for specific details. Transferable: No cost, unlimited owners covered. Roadside Assistance: Roadside assistance provided during the basic warranty period. Specific Components: Battery prorated after 12 months. Rotary engine core components on all RX-8 vehicles produced after the 2004 model year are covered for 8/100,000 from the original warranty start date. Notes: Adjustments covered for 1/12,000.
Drivetrain 48 months or 50,000 miles Coverage expired
Emissions 96 months or 80,000 miles 9 months or 28,463 miles
Corrosion 60 months or unlimited mileage Coverage expired
Transferable No cost, unlimited owners covered Same
Roadside Assistance No data reported to CARFAX
Safety belt & inflatable restraint No data reported to CARFAX
Specific Components 96 months or 80,000 miles 9 months or 28,463 miles
Notes: Emissions: Manufacturer covers emissions components under basic warranty. Emissions coverage may vary by state. Refer to owners manual for specific details. Transferable: No cost, unlimited owners covered. Roadside Assistance: Roadside assistance provided during the basic warranty period. Specific Components: Battery prorated after 12 months. Rotary engine core components on all RX-8 vehicles produced after the 2004 model year are covered for 8/100,000 from the original warranty start date. Notes: Adjustments covered for 1/12,000.
12-06-2011, 05:04 PM
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Yea I saw that right after I poested that, sorry guys. "Specific Components 96 months or 80,000 miles 9 months or 28,463 miles", does that mean the engine is still covered?
12-06-2011, 05:08 PM
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Yes, in theory. Mazda might demand receipts for all maintenance though. Can you get those?
Either way, a compression test will either show it to be on it's way out and you can avoid it, or a compression test will show that it's a solid engine and good for plenty of mileage.
Either way, a compression test will either show it to be on it's way out and you can avoid it, or a compression test will show that it's a solid engine and good for plenty of mileage.