New owner looking for advice
#1
away_27
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New owner looking for advice
Hey guys, I just purchased my RX-8 about 2 weeks ago. It's just a base model 6spd but I got it for about a $1K under invoice so I'm happy with it. So I've got a few questions, how important is this break in period and is 600 miles like the manual says the appropriate break in time or should I give it more time? Also when I need to add some oil what should I use? I was thinking I would switch to synthetic after my first or second oil change but what should I use in the mean time? Other than that I'm just trying to get acquainted with my new baby! Feel free to respond with any other advice you guys can give to a new RX8 owner!
#2
1.3L is enough 4 anybody
Join Date: Jul 2004
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Congrats on your new purchase!
Check this link out on break-in of your 8:
https://www.racingbeat.com/RX8%20Break%20in.htm
I'd definitely break it in gently. Also, don't start it up, move it, and shut it down cold or there's a risk of flooding and trouble starting the next time. Last, check your oil every 2nd fill-up and top up when needed - rotaries burn oil by design.
Last, use the search feature above to find all of the great info on these forums. (Although if you search for 'break in' it omits 'in' because it's too short... GRRR....)
Check this link out on break-in of your 8:
https://www.racingbeat.com/RX8%20Break%20in.htm
I'd definitely break it in gently. Also, don't start it up, move it, and shut it down cold or there's a risk of flooding and trouble starting the next time. Last, check your oil every 2nd fill-up and top up when needed - rotaries burn oil by design.
Last, use the search feature above to find all of the great info on these forums. (Although if you search for 'break in' it omits 'in' because it's too short... GRRR....)
#3
Fresh oil never hurt an engine, so stick to the 600 mile guidance - I will be cahnging oil every 2,000 miles, not synthetic as that heavy price tag is so you can skip oil changes (generalization).
I swithced from 5W/20 to 5W/30 as all European manuals advise, the 30 will be better for the engine but perhaps dilute Mazda North America's "CAFE" need to go low.
Do not worry about topping up with 5W/30 over the presumably factory 5W/20 - it is not an issue to change "on the run" to a higher viscosity as long as you keep the base (5W) the same.
The rotary engine feeds lub oil (injected delibeartely into each rotor housing) so check the oil level every other fuel fill up.
Summary - change frequently, forget synthetics, use 5W/30.
Hope this helps?
Cheers!
I swithced from 5W/20 to 5W/30 as all European manuals advise, the 30 will be better for the engine but perhaps dilute Mazda North America's "CAFE" need to go low.
Do not worry about topping up with 5W/30 over the presumably factory 5W/20 - it is not an issue to change "on the run" to a higher viscosity as long as you keep the base (5W) the same.
The rotary engine feeds lub oil (injected delibeartely into each rotor housing) so check the oil level every other fuel fill up.
Summary - change frequently, forget synthetics, use 5W/30.
Hope this helps?
Cheers!
#4
Oil injection
I understand that oil is injected into the back of the rotors to cool them and lube the gears etc, where do the apex seals etc get lubrication, does the oil really get contaminated like a recip??
#5
my dealer told me if i used synthetic oil, it would void the warranty on the car...i had to sign an agreement saying that he had gone over this with me...i'd look into that if i were you.
#6
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Originally Posted by michael d
I understand that oil is injected into the back of the rotors to cool them and lube the gears etc, where do the apex seals etc get lubrication, does the oil really get contaminated like a recip??
The oil injector lubes the apex seals. The oil that is used to cool the back of the rotors and lube the gears etc, comes from oil coolers, thru the e-shaft and into the rotor interior, then to the oil pan. At least this path is the way it worked in the 2nd gen rotaries.
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