New Motor Burning ZERO OIL!
 

I have about 700 miles on a new reman from Mazda and the dipstick has not moved. I've been driving it pretty hard the last 400 miles so i am assuming there is an OMP issue. (By hard I mean sideways with the buzzer going)

I added 4oz of premix after the first thank, then 8 oz on the next tank, and 16oz on this tank, since I am now pretty sure its not getting any other oil.

I just threw a CEL as well, so I am going to get an OBDII later today to confirm the code.

I am going to follow the instructions to clean the lines, but is there anything else I should be looking for? Could I have forgot a plug or vacuum line when I put the motor back in?

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

Getting a reman has nothing to do with your oil injectors, oil injectors lines, or your oil metering pump. All they do is take your old components and put them on the (not NEW) reman.

The point I was trying to make is that the car has a new motor in it and I may have made a mistake when installing, or missed something, versus all of a sudden this issue happening over years of use, which would likely indicate a clog or component failure.

Oil consumption was fine with the old motor so something happened when I swapped components.

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

Highly doubtful. Aside from breaking the oil metering lines, and having a leak in the oil metering lines, I don't see anything they could have done that would cause this situation. And if the oil metering pump was malfunctioning, your car should be in limp mode.

In reading, perhaps my perceived oil consumption was askew due to my previous engine actually burning oil. I was going through 2/3qt per tank (~240 miles)

I think I may try to restrict the fresh air line and check oil consumption. If its not moving, I will try seafoam.

Should I add more premix than 16oz per 12gal in the mean time?

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

not necessarily true, a kinked breather hose for the oil injectors could be a quick fix and not allow them to inject oil.

the reman engine also could still be the problem, if some debris got stuck in the front cover passages or the gasket shifted and is blocking the OMP feed hole.

2/3qt is a little extreme for 240 miles. i burn through about 1qt every 600 miles and seems to be fairly normal.

I will start the car and see if there is vaccum from the fresh air line. Do you know an easy way to check if the OMP is getting oil?

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

Well yes, if a hose is kinked or there is debri in the passage then it could be that. I have never heard of that happening though, typically it is failed oil injectors or a cracked oil metering feed line. He does have a CEL but since he can go to red line it is likely unrelated.

Alright, I checked the hose and there was vacuum. It wasn't horribly strong but after a couple seconds pressure built enough to suck in my finger. About half the vacuum I am used to on a piston engine.

For good measure I checked the oil and I am 0.2qts down. So apparently I don't have an oil problem. Sorry for wasting your time.

In my reading about this issue, I read about the oil restrictor available in Germany (the nice aluminum one). Are there any available in the US? If not I can draw one up in CAD in about 30 minutes and send it to production. We have a similar size but more complex part made for $3.75 each in qty 100. Would anyone be interested in offering these to forum members? If so I will just make a batch of 50 to 100. I could just get them drilled for a bunch of different sizes and include plugs for the sizes not used. Thoughts? I am not looking to make money on this.

Thanks,
Lucky Kid

Most of us just up the OMP rates VIA the Cobb. But if you can CAD things for production, we made need to talk, :lol:

if you really want to make sure all is OK, you can try taking that same air line for the omp nozzles and putting some cleaner through it followed by maybe 5ml of oil just enough to ensure the line doesn't dry and crack from cleaners drying the rubber. (its just a ocd precaution lol)

When i got my reman installed it was hardly consuming oil, one of the lines wasn't even feeding oil at all. (i know because air was in the line and over the course of 50 miles didn't move an inch)

What i did to resolve that was to take the vac line that goes from the injectors to the intake, put a few ml of different cleaners in it, plugged it so engine vacuum would pull everything in the line out good, and then repeated that like 6 times till i felt satisfied that the oil injectors were "cleaned out".

If you look close at the omp lines you may be able to see fresher oil get pulled through the lines when you have that vac line plugged. finish with 3-5ml of any oil to keep that vac line from drying internally (again just a ocd paranoia of mine i have no proof that would happen), plug it back to the intake and drive off happy.

After doing this my oil consumption is what it should be now, I speculate my first motor eventually failed because of a lack of lubrication from those nozzles being clogged. Goodluck

$5 versus $500. Just an idea.

I will get some seafoam to clean the injectors out.

Try Techron first, made for injectors and is often on sale at the autoparts store for cheaper than seafoam.

Quote post Rudolph
........"I want to inform you about my personal experience regarding the aspect of increase to heavier premix and at the same time/instantly severe reduction of 4-stroke oil consumption on a 6000 mls car and other type of users:
My Rex was purchased new and I started premixing from 6.000 mls since new. Immediately after starting my up till then regular use of engine oil of 1 ltr per 3.500-4.000 kms "stopped".
My OMP oil lines were/are definitively not clogged.
After some time I once did read an article from a rotary aviation engine pilot, reporting that with their (heavy) usual premix of 1,5 oz per gallon (manufacturers prescription) the oil level in the engine is EVEN RAISING after some time in such a way that he has to tap some oil time by time. Obviously a part of the 2 stroke oil gets dissolved in the 4-stroke oil when heavy premixing. Later on I did read the same reports from another rotary pilot and from some other Rex drivers in Germany. I personally have exactly the same experience with 1,1 oz per gallon pus OMP in operation; I do not have to tap but can see that the level is little varying up and down; it look likes "there is no 4 stroke oil consumption at all" which actually is a wrong understanding, being the 4-stroke consumption replenished by a part of the 2-stroke oil."...........
My post #731...
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...210194/page30/

Ref: German Adapter
Adapter with inner bore 2,0 mm located in vacuum hose of OMP, increasing oil consumption from 300 ml/1000kms to 500ml/1000 kms..........
http://www.rx8forum.de/index.php?pag...rrmser+adapter

Now for sale from a German RX-8 forum-member.....(2.0 mm inner bore)......€ 14.- incl. shipping (Europe)

http://s1.directupload.net/images/13...p/na8a9324.jpghttp://s7.directupload.net/images/13...p/n7uavwwm.jpg

Biete: Adapter zur Erhöhung der Öleinspritzmenge - Biete / Suche - Der Kleinanzeigenmarkt - Mazda RX-8 Forum

2-3qts every tank?
seems way more than usual

What about 2/3rds? :mdrmed:

even thats too much imo.
my S2 burns a quart every 1000 miles.:mdrmed:

I've been searching the threads, but no luck. I'm going to put my question here.

So - I want to go about cleaning the OMP nozzles, but I am confused. I came across a video where someone took a syringe full of degreaser and pumped it through the vacuum line port and had it squirting out the supply holes and the injection holes (Here's the video) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hC2...ature=youtu.be

So, unless there's something I don't understand (Highly possible), doesn't this mean his injectors are foketa and the diaphragm that opens them is torn and allowing fluid to enter the injector? I mean, under a vacuum condition wouldn't the intake negative pressure suck oil into those tubes?

Help me, I'm confused (and prone to wandering)