Just drove one home from the dealership.
03-23-2005, 10:47 PM
#4
Mad as a wet hen
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Once you catch your breath and get your heartrate back down to normal, fill us in on details... year, color, etc. If it's silver, be extra careful! 
03-24-2005, 07:59 AM
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It's an '04 red automatic with the sport package, spare tire, wheel locks, and floor mats (i'm on a tight budget so i had to get one with as few features as possible).
The out the door price (without the gerber rebate i'm waiting on) was just over 23k. That includes just about 2k in taxes and fees.
I don't know if I got a good deal, but from my dealers searching (couple of them were searching the entire country) I found only 2 '04s that were the base model (what i was looking for because I hate spending money.
This was the first new car I've ever bought. I just about threw up twice at the prospect of the cost but I think i'm over it now.
So now the questions:
I understand how to avoid flooding by warming up and no cold shut downs. But can someone explain the granny driving mode to break it in?
I also know to check the oil every other fillup, make sure to use high octane gas. Anything else I should know? (I will read the manual this weekend, but I don't want to break it before then.)
Dang i like this car
The out the door price (without the gerber rebate i'm waiting on) was just over 23k. That includes just about 2k in taxes and fees.
I don't know if I got a good deal, but from my dealers searching (couple of them were searching the entire country) I found only 2 '04s that were the base model (what i was looking for because I hate spending money.
This was the first new car I've ever bought. I just about threw up twice at the prospect of the cost but I think i'm over it now.
So now the questions:
I understand how to avoid flooding by warming up and no cold shut downs. But can someone explain the granny driving mode to break it in?
I also know to check the oil every other fillup, make sure to use high octane gas. Anything else I should know? (I will read the manual this weekend, but I don't want to break it before then.)
Dang i like this car
03-24-2005, 08:34 AM
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Welcome aboard--while I miss the extra fun of the manual I am loving my auto. Check out www.racingbeat.com they have a break-in procedure for the RX8 on the website.
03-24-2005, 08:36 AM
#9
Shakezula, the Mic Rula
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I have a similar car, nice choice! First a word of warning about this forum, don't let the inevitable gear heads that will bash your AT get to you. The AT is still a VERY nice car, just a little underpowered. I hope you enjoy it as much as i've enjoyed mine.
This was also my first car out of college (once I got the deposit saved up of course) and I still stare at it as I walk away :D . Breakin is discussed in the manual and isn't necessary but most of us like to take the precaution anyway. Just baby the car for a while basically - no high RPM driving yet, keep her below 5 if possible until around 1,000 miles. It's hard, but I believe it will prolong the overall life of the engine.
This was also my first car out of college (once I got the deposit saved up of course) and I still stare at it as I walk away :D . Breakin is discussed in the manual and isn't necessary but most of us like to take the precaution anyway. Just baby the car for a while basically - no high RPM driving yet, keep her below 5 if possible until around 1,000 miles. It's hard, but I believe it will prolong the overall life of the engine.
03-24-2005, 08:46 AM
#10
nomo RX-8, it's sold
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I have a similar car, nice choice! First a word of warning about this forum, don't let the inevitable gear heads that will bash your AT get to you. The AT is still a VERY nice car, just a little underpowered. I hope you enjoy it as much as i've enjoyed mine.
Welcome fellow A/T owner
03-24-2005, 08:55 AM
#11
Shakezula, the Mic Rula
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Originally Posted by nomopistons
This all depends on the individuals definition of how much power is adequate. For everyday driving, it is more than enough. If your a Yosingo Karaoki wannabe then it is underpowered.
Welcome fellow A/T owner
Welcome fellow A/T owner
03-24-2005, 09:28 AM
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197, 238 horsepower, either way, I can't drive stick
And honestly, there will be times when I don't want to deal with the hassle of shifting (Please don't ban me from the boards for saying that)
And honestly, there will be times when I don't want to deal with the hassle of shifting (Please don't ban me from the boards for saying that)
03-24-2005, 09:31 AM
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I'll say I wish I had an auto today because I got a Td shot in my right shoulder this morning. erk.
I'd say at $23,000, an auto RX-8 is still a lot better than many other alternative cars for $23,000 (Pontiac G6 comes to mind, heehee).
I'd say at $23,000, an auto RX-8 is still a lot better than many other alternative cars for $23,000 (Pontiac G6 comes to mind, heehee).
03-24-2005, 09:55 AM
#14
One more couldn't hurt
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The sport shift / manumatic / tiptronic, call it what you will, is a lot of fun in its own right. I'm sure you'll enjoy it. Don't know where you live, but if it's in a snow zone you WILL need proper tires. (A nice Xmas present for your wife/gf.)
03-24-2005, 10:16 AM
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Yeah, I heard about the snow tires thing. Anyone want to explain that to me using small words so I can understand it (I've still got alot to learn about this car)?
03-24-2005, 10:23 AM
#16
Shakezula, the Mic Rula
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Originally Posted by Zofran
Yeah, I heard about the snow tires thing. Anyone want to explain that to me using small words so I can understand it (I've still got alot to learn about this car)?
03-24-2005, 02:38 PM
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One more couldn't hurt
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There are a million (OK, maybe 900,000) threads around here about summer tires, snow tires and all that rot. Happy reading.
03-24-2005, 05:20 PM
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There's also a few threads on the "granny" break-in period. I have seen three sets of guidelines which range from almost none (Mazda) to keeping it under 4K for the first 1000 miles. I have borrowed from other threads.
From Mazda:While no special break-in is necessary, a few precautions in the first 600 miles may add to performance. Don't race the engine. Don't maintain one constant speed for long. Don't drive constantly at WOT or high engine rpm for extended periods. Avoid unecessary hard stops. Avoid WOT starts."
Racing Beat:
For the first 1,000 miles don't shift over 4 rpms, and don't go full throttle with your car.
Between 1,000 and 2,000 miles raise the rpms you shift at but do not redline it, and avoid going full throttle.
Once you have over 2,000 miles on the car, it sould be fully broken in to do whatever you want with (redline, full throttle, fast excelerations).
From RX22, he goes one step further:1100-1200 => 4500 max
1200-1300 => 5000 max
1300-1400 => 5500 max
1400-1500 => 6000 max
1500-1600 => 6500 max
1600-1700 => 7000 max
1700-1800 => 7500 max
1800-1900 => 8000 max
1900-2000 => 8500 max
After 2000 => 9000 max
From StewC625
Pre-500 miles - limit revs to between 6000 and 7000 RPM, although not terribly critical (let's face it folks, we ALL redlined the car on the test drive ...), and limit full-throttle starts and runs - avoid them if possible. For brake bedding, it's recomended you don't do any full-brake (into the antilocks) applications for the first 1000 miles.
AFTER 500 miles - while OK to pull to near/around redline, avoid WOT runs up to the redline. WOT throttle acceleration OK as long as you short shift below 7000 RPM.
AFTER 1000 miles - all clear. Drive it like you stole it.
I decided to compromise. This is what I did:
0-400 miles: under 5K (mostly under 4K), no rapid starts, no rapid braking (except for the accident I avoided by doing so).
400-800 miles: under 6K (mostly under 5K), no rapid starts, no rapid braking
800-1000: a few trips above 6K, but under 7K, no rapid starts, no rapid braking
1000-1200: a few more trips above 6K, but mostly under 7K; a few rapid starts
1200-1500: stopped paying attention, but no redline
1500+: no restrictions
From Mazda:While no special break-in is necessary, a few precautions in the first 600 miles may add to performance. Don't race the engine. Don't maintain one constant speed for long. Don't drive constantly at WOT or high engine rpm for extended periods. Avoid unecessary hard stops. Avoid WOT starts."
Racing Beat:
For the first 1,000 miles don't shift over 4 rpms, and don't go full throttle with your car.
Between 1,000 and 2,000 miles raise the rpms you shift at but do not redline it, and avoid going full throttle.
Once you have over 2,000 miles on the car, it sould be fully broken in to do whatever you want with (redline, full throttle, fast excelerations).
From RX22, he goes one step further:1100-1200 => 4500 max
1200-1300 => 5000 max
1300-1400 => 5500 max
1400-1500 => 6000 max
1500-1600 => 6500 max
1600-1700 => 7000 max
1700-1800 => 7500 max
1800-1900 => 8000 max
1900-2000 => 8500 max
After 2000 => 9000 max
From StewC625
Pre-500 miles - limit revs to between 6000 and 7000 RPM, although not terribly critical (let's face it folks, we ALL redlined the car on the test drive ...), and limit full-throttle starts and runs - avoid them if possible. For brake bedding, it's recomended you don't do any full-brake (into the antilocks) applications for the first 1000 miles.
AFTER 500 miles - while OK to pull to near/around redline, avoid WOT runs up to the redline. WOT throttle acceleration OK as long as you short shift below 7000 RPM.
AFTER 1000 miles - all clear. Drive it like you stole it.
I decided to compromise. This is what I did:
0-400 miles: under 5K (mostly under 4K), no rapid starts, no rapid braking (except for the accident I avoided by doing so).
400-800 miles: under 6K (mostly under 5K), no rapid starts, no rapid braking
800-1000: a few trips above 6K, but under 7K, no rapid starts, no rapid braking
1000-1200: a few more trips above 6K, but mostly under 7K; a few rapid starts
1200-1500: stopped paying attention, but no redline
1500+: no restrictions
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