installing subwoofer to stock stereo
11-02-2010, 03:09 AM
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installing subwoofer to stock stereo
I wanna install a subwoofer to my rx8 using the stock stereo. I have the sub and amp/amp kit. Has anyone done this? If so, is there anything specific that I need?
11-02-2010, 05:30 AM
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hmm... when i did this in my last car, i used an MTX amp which conveniently allows the amp to be turned out without a remote wire via the left rca input channel. now most amps dont have these but maybe its worth a shot, as i dont know what equipment you're using, but its called smart engage.
or another idea is buy rca cables. strip one end of them and tap the rear speaker wires, negative-negative, positive-positive. left rca channel. left rear speaker, right rca channel, right rear speaker. and now connect your remote turn on wire to any 12v source that only goes hot when the key is in the ignition, other wise the amp will drain your battery. so what i would do it just tap it into the cigarette lighter. mazda was nice enough to have those lose function once the car is turned off. or you can do it the harder way and directly wire the remote wire from the amp to the battery, just make sure you have an on/off switch that you can manually toggle, just dont forget to turn it off when you get out of the car. make sence? now i just got my rx-8 so i dont know if people have discovered a way to find a source other then what im suggesting. but this is how i would do it.
or another idea is buy rca cables. strip one end of them and tap the rear speaker wires, negative-negative, positive-positive. left rca channel. left rear speaker, right rca channel, right rear speaker. and now connect your remote turn on wire to any 12v source that only goes hot when the key is in the ignition, other wise the amp will drain your battery. so what i would do it just tap it into the cigarette lighter. mazda was nice enough to have those lose function once the car is turned off. or you can do it the harder way and directly wire the remote wire from the amp to the battery, just make sure you have an on/off switch that you can manually toggle, just dont forget to turn it off when you get out of the car. make sence? now i just got my rx-8 so i dont know if people have discovered a way to find a source other then what im suggesting. but this is how i would do it.
11-07-2010, 11:36 AM
#9
fyi, Not compatible with Bose systems.
use an LOC the get a good enough signal that the aftermarket amp can use.
you can tap the rear speaker wires, but you'll need to use the line level converter, and you'll have to adjust your crossover setting on the amp.
also on the speaker lines you want to tap both the left and right rear speakers if you are going that route, music is in stereo so if information is not on the left channels you may find that you seem to be missing notes on the sub.
that's what i did and my setup is pretty good.
I have 500w ALpine to 10"SquareKicker.
hope that helps.
use an LOC the get a good enough signal that the aftermarket amp can use.
you can tap the rear speaker wires, but you'll need to use the line level converter, and you'll have to adjust your crossover setting on the amp.
also on the speaker lines you want to tap both the left and right rear speakers if you are going that route, music is in stereo so if information is not on the left channels you may find that you seem to be missing notes on the sub.
that's what i did and my setup is pretty good.
I have 500w ALpine to 10"SquareKicker.
hope that helps.
11-07-2010, 06:21 PM
#10
You need to read this first:
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_wiring.html
If this doesn't make sense then take it to a professional to have it done. When you run parallel or if you daisy chain speakers you can cut the ohms by 1/4. So lets say your pushing 2 ohms to the rear speakers. You could cut it to .5 ohms and destroy your sound quality. It has to be wired properly and with the right equipment. Sometimes using a cross over to capture certain signals.
"Really the best way to do this is to create a component system. Or to change your head unit out. The front door speakers should be stock out of the head unit with a crossover and individual tweeters. The rear speakers should be 6 x 9 with a two channel amp powering them. You only need one subwoofer. Despite what people think, subwoofers are non directional and not specific to left and right. Which is why you need a head unit that understands this. Most good units like Kenwood Excelon series understand this. The important thing is that you cover all wave lengths. Which is why its best to use a 5 or 6 inch with a cross over to tweeters in the front. Then 6 x 9 two channel on a two channel amp in the back. A pair of good mid range speakers for channels 3 and 4 with no need to amp them on a good head unit. Lastly a really good subwoofer/amp comb single speaker is all that you need. They make some really good 300watt RMS and 600 watt RMS. RMS is more important than PEAK output. RMS is continuous. Peak is only by random chance."
^My buddy that works audio video typed that up for you^
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/spkr_wiring.html
If this doesn't make sense then take it to a professional to have it done. When you run parallel or if you daisy chain speakers you can cut the ohms by 1/4. So lets say your pushing 2 ohms to the rear speakers. You could cut it to .5 ohms and destroy your sound quality. It has to be wired properly and with the right equipment. Sometimes using a cross over to capture certain signals.
"Really the best way to do this is to create a component system. Or to change your head unit out. The front door speakers should be stock out of the head unit with a crossover and individual tweeters. The rear speakers should be 6 x 9 with a two channel amp powering them. You only need one subwoofer. Despite what people think, subwoofers are non directional and not specific to left and right. Which is why you need a head unit that understands this. Most good units like Kenwood Excelon series understand this. The important thing is that you cover all wave lengths. Which is why its best to use a 5 or 6 inch with a cross over to tweeters in the front. Then 6 x 9 two channel on a two channel amp in the back. A pair of good mid range speakers for channels 3 and 4 with no need to amp them on a good head unit. Lastly a really good subwoofer/amp comb single speaker is all that you need. They make some really good 300watt RMS and 600 watt RMS. RMS is more important than PEAK output. RMS is continuous. Peak is only by random chance."
^My buddy that works audio video typed that up for you^
Last edited by DocBeech; 11-07-2010 at 06:34 PM.
11-07-2010, 08:12 PM
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I'm going to preempt this with saying that I think a simple subwoofer can dramatically increase the sound in any audio system. But really, to improve overall sound quality, you should re-do the WHOLE system.
Factory head units & speakers are generally a much lower wattage than anything aftermarket. It is actually easier to blow a speaker by continuously UNDER-powering it than over-powering it. Your sound-system can only perform to the level of the LOWEST-QUALITY component in the whole system. In other words, it doesn't matter how good your head-unit is if you've still got crappy speakers (and vice-versa). I use the old term "GARBAGE-IN, GARBAGE OUT". In a nutshell, here's what would happen IF:
1) You replace ONLY speakers, not the Head-unit: You are probably under-powering the new speakers and run the risk of blowing them. While initial sound quality is slightly better, the speakers are not performing optimally because they are being under-powered and the head-unit can't provide as high-quality output as the speakers demand.
2) You replace ONLY the head-unit: You are most definitely OVER-powering the factory speakers, and while the aftermarket head-unit can output higher quality audio, the speakers aren't typically able to handle it. If you have a high-end head unit, and stock speakers, you'll still only get the sound quality of the stock speakers.
3) You install a subwoofer without proper RCA-outputs on the head-unit: Again, garbage-in, garbage-out. Make sure your amplifier has a good crossover.
All of this said, using a line-output converter will work to give you RCA outputs from the factory head-unit. I believe the Metra Part #'s are ALOC-608(2-channel/sub) and ALOC-648(4-channel/full range).
Here's some more of my input, in case you're interested...
Any time your speakers' RMS wattage (continuous power) rating is higher than the RMS output of the head unit you are using, I STRONGLY RECOMMEND using an amplifier that puts out the proper RMS wattage for your speakers. You will thank yourself in the long run, not only for better sound quality but for not blowing up your components.
IF your vehicle has a "Premium" factory audio system (i.e. Bose, Infinity, Etc...):
It should be noted that when re-engineering a complete audio system if you don't plan on running all new speaker wire, you will want to make sure you bypass any factory amplifiers. If you use existing speaker wires, and there is a factory amp, you will likely be double-amplifying your audio and can cause great harm to the system components.
Factory head units & speakers are generally a much lower wattage than anything aftermarket. It is actually easier to blow a speaker by continuously UNDER-powering it than over-powering it. Your sound-system can only perform to the level of the LOWEST-QUALITY component in the whole system. In other words, it doesn't matter how good your head-unit is if you've still got crappy speakers (and vice-versa). I use the old term "GARBAGE-IN, GARBAGE OUT". In a nutshell, here's what would happen IF:
1) You replace ONLY speakers, not the Head-unit: You are probably under-powering the new speakers and run the risk of blowing them. While initial sound quality is slightly better, the speakers are not performing optimally because they are being under-powered and the head-unit can't provide as high-quality output as the speakers demand.
2) You replace ONLY the head-unit: You are most definitely OVER-powering the factory speakers, and while the aftermarket head-unit can output higher quality audio, the speakers aren't typically able to handle it. If you have a high-end head unit, and stock speakers, you'll still only get the sound quality of the stock speakers.
3) You install a subwoofer without proper RCA-outputs on the head-unit: Again, garbage-in, garbage-out. Make sure your amplifier has a good crossover.
All of this said, using a line-output converter will work to give you RCA outputs from the factory head-unit. I believe the Metra Part #'s are ALOC-608(2-channel/sub) and ALOC-648(4-channel/full range).
Here's some more of my input, in case you're interested...
Any time your speakers' RMS wattage (continuous power) rating is higher than the RMS output of the head unit you are using, I STRONGLY RECOMMEND using an amplifier that puts out the proper RMS wattage for your speakers. You will thank yourself in the long run, not only for better sound quality but for not blowing up your components.
IF your vehicle has a "Premium" factory audio system (i.e. Bose, Infinity, Etc...):
It should be noted that when re-engineering a complete audio system if you don't plan on running all new speaker wire, you will want to make sure you bypass any factory amplifiers. If you use existing speaker wires, and there is a factory amp, you will likely be double-amplifying your audio and can cause great harm to the system components.
Last edited by RotaryBoi; 11-07-2010 at 08:28 PM.
11-07-2010, 08:15 PM
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i have bose and the adapter works for my 8, the box hang out the side, zip tie it under your glovebox and itll all be hidden, fyi it does say it works for some cars with bose, why would i lie. and there are ones that say bose compatible also, hope this helps
Last edited by DisturbedOne87; 11-07-2010 at 08:19 PM.
11-08-2010, 12:10 AM
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11-08-2010, 02:31 AM
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