Nubo

Tried installing the Cargo Net yesterday. Anyone who's done it finds out real quick that the top hooks go in just fine and then when you try to put the bottom hooks in you begin questioning the maternal lineage of the engineers and instruction writers.

After indulging in this for awhile I logged on and found a couple of threads where users have had success by either drilling larger holes or hammering in the bottom clips. What both of these methods do is get rid of the little plastic "top hat" which is inserted into the hole. My guess is that the bottom clip is actually "supposed" to fit into that plastic piece but the rubber "expansion nut" is too big.

Even after trying the hammer and then, the drill methods I still couldn't get more than a pathetic attachment that could hold maybe half a pound before it came loose and started pulling on the plastic panel. This may be because my little rubber pieces were already frazzled by the time I logged on to get the fix.

To make a long story short I had to either try to get another set of lower clips, buy a whole new cargo net kit, or find another way to attach the thing. I went with the latter. I present it here as another alternative.

Simply, it's a plastic wall anchor and screw-eye from the hardware store.

The anchors I already had. My storage drawer claims they're "#12 - 1 7/16" It's just large enough so that you can tap in into the hole with a hammer and the flange is large enough to hold down the plastic panel.

I selected screw-eyes that had a screw section large enough to expand the anchor. These were listed as "#8" on the package. Don't ask me what these designations mean -- in keeping with the secret mysteries of hardware the anchors get bigger as the number gets bigger (#12 is bigger than #10, etc). But the screw-eyes get smaller (#6 is bigger than #8). Whatever. I just eyeballed it. Oh yeah -- zinc plated to prevent rust.

The loop on the screw-eyes are closed tight and so you have to open them up a bit to make enough room for the net loops to slip in. I used a locking pliers and screwdriver. I used some cardboard to try to keep from gouging the hooks but still did a bit. A little work with emery cloth got it smooth again. I didn't want it wearing the loop down as loads shifted.

I have no idea why the OEM bottom hooks are so retarded. It occurs to me that the engineers may have wanted to make absolutely sure the bottom hooks fail first in the event of a collision or sudden stop so that the contents would shift and still be contained -- something that might not happen if the top hooks failed first. So I will say - try at your own risk. I don't plan on keeping cannon ***** in the net and I still think the bottom hooks will pull out long before the top ones. Safer, in my opinion than the OEM at least in my case since I couldn't get them to hold worth a damn.

So here's the pic. I think it looks okay and the hook shouldn't catch on or damage anything.

Edit - changed "eyebolt" to "screw-eye"

Tamas

iTrader: (1)

This is a neat solution to a problem caused by a real idiotic design. I had the same problem like you - and was thinking along the same lines to find an alternate fix because my bottom hooks are also damaged, beyond repair.
to the "engineer" (sic!) who figured how these hooks should be.
Question is: does the wall anchor now hold the rear trunk trim in place so it can not be removed? That'd be not so good... or can you still remove that trim piece after unscrewing the eyebolt?

G8rboy

Clever job of MacGyvering the net. At first look I didn't see how they would go into the holes either, but a little spit and a couple of rubber mallet whacks and mine went right in.

Nubo

As far as removal; I haven't tried it but I think if you remove the screw-eye you'd then be able to pull the anchor out. It's probably deformed a bit and formed a groove where it mates with the sheet-metal hole. But shouldn't be too terribly difficult to coax out with needle-nose pliers. It's a pliable enough material.

By the way, I've been calling it an eyebolt but the more appropriate term is probably "screw-eye". That might be an important disctinction for anyone trying to replicate this. Eyebolts have a threaded part that is a bolt (i.e. constant diameter and bolt threads). The "screw-eye" which I used has a threaded part that's like a wood-screw. It's tapered a bit and has coarser and more aggressive threads like a wood screw. That combination is what is needed to get a progressively tighter fit as it screws into the plastic anchor and the threads give it good purchase on the plastic of the anchor. Bolt threads wouldn't work so well.

SiMplyBluE

Thanks for this solution!! I 'screwed' up my bottom hooks too and will most probably try this solution. Though I don't know if I want to install the cargo net now considering my golf bag might catch on it everytime I move it in and out of my trunk.

RX8 Pusher

Man, I installed mine today (sort of) and after standing there trying to looks at the darn thing, re-reading the instructions x 5 (could have left them in Japanese for all they were worth) I simply stopped with the bottom hooks being firmly secured to the plastic cover and feeling like a complete buffoon until I read this thread! Sorry you guys had problems, but when you are on a sinking ship it is comforting to know there are others there with you……

AWillsea

According to the instructions I had, the anchors only go into the plastic. The instruction even state you may need to put your fingers behind the plastic and hold it away from the back of the car to get it to fit. It worked fine for me, although it is secure, I wouldn't count on it holding nay real weight.

WarpFactor

Does anyone have the cargo net for their trunk?

I have a cargo net from my last car, and would like to use it in my new 8. Where does it mount to? Anybody have any pictures of the trunk with the cargo net installed?

Go48

The cargo net attached to 4 plastic, hook-like studs (2 on left and 2 on right) that are located on each side of the "front" (towards the rear of the car) of the trunk. It came already installed on the car so I can't provide installation instructions. In my opinion, it is of marginal usefulness and had it not come with the car, I would not have purchased/installed one. I use it to hold a quart of oil, funnel, and paper towels and it won't hold a lot more.

Sorry not pics since I'm away from home and the car is not with me.

Mugatu

iTrader: (1)

You can find the cargo net at the search button at the top.

RotorGeek

I have used it to carry 2 bottles of grey goose, 2 bottles of Captain Morgan select, 1 bottle of Crown Royal. It has been very useful to me.

cwilliams3

I use it for my quart of 5W20... I did not special order it, it was just in the car I wanted for the $40 i guess it was cheap enough....

G8rboy

You have to put those hooked studs in yourself- they come with the cargo net kit. Installation is pretty easy if you can get the studs in without a lot of effort (some people have had problems- I just used some spit and a rubber mallet). I also have the cargo organizer box that fits in the well in the center of the trunk floor... I use that for my oil, tools, tire repair kit, etc. I use the net for groceries or any other bags of stuff I don't want flying all over the trunk when corning. Both are very handy...

Ninja

I believe if you go to either Trussville or Rosenthal Mazda web sites you can find pdf file with installation instructions.

I have the cargo net, self installed. Like someone noted above, it was something of a pain to get one of the hooked studs inserted.

Since installation, it's worked great for holding anything you don't want sliding all over your trunk. It's useful enough that I would get it again if given the choice.

Tamas

iTrader: (1)

Also, you can get the four hooks at the dealer for some six bucks or so. They are available as a separate 'hardware kit' for the cargo net, so if your existing net is of a similar size like the rear wall of your trunk and has hoops on all four corners, you can try to install it in the 8 with this kit.

G8rboy

That's great to know... I have a broken one that I'd love to get replaced. I was going to rig it with some home depot hardware instead.

WarpFactor

Thank you everyone, well, almost everyone ;-), for your replies. I found the pdf file at the Rosenthal Mazda site (thanks Ninja). I'll check out the dealer for the hooks Tamas.

You guys are great!

Nubo

2 of the 4 Mazda hooks are a royal pain to install -- the bottom ones if I recall. I finally gave up and used eyebolts and wall anchors from the hardware store. Ah... it's still online https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=23105

khtm

I've found a solution that involves buying NOTHING NEW.

I wish I had the wherewithal to take pictures and post a step-by-step DIY guide, but my description will have to suffice.

The following are instructions on how to install the 2 lower T-anchors only. The 2 upper T-anchors are simple and you shouldn't have a problem with those. I assume you've already removed the plastic fasteners which come stock in the trunk.

(1) The lower T-anchors have a rubber sheath (for lack of a better word...it's kind of like a long rubber nut) which is screwed onto them and holds on a washer. Remove the sheath and washer by holding the sheath and turning the anchor portion counter-clockwise until the sheath comes off.

(2) Pull the hard plastic panel outwards and put your hand behind it so that you can place the washer BEHIND the panel, lined up with the hole.

(3) Put the bolt part of the T-anchor through the hole from the FRONT of the panel and through the washer.

(4) Take the rubber sheath and and put it BEHIND the panel so that the bolt part of the T-anchor screws into it. Make sure the washer is on the T-anchor first. This is the most difficult part and you'll probably have to pull the plastic panel out quite a bit to get the T-anchor back there.

(5) Once the T-anchor starts threading into the rubber sheath, take your hand out from the back of the plastic panel and, just using one hand, screw the T-anchor clockwise into the plastic panel from the front, while applying pressure (perpendicular to the plastic panel).

(6) Keep screwing the T-anchor in until it's tight. It should get TIGHT.

Good luck! :D

Nubo

sorry, off topic but I needed to post a new pic to make the old ones re-appear. It's magic!

CarAndDriver

Was thinking of getting this and now not. Thank you for all the comments.

Tamas

iTrader: (1)

Despite the stupid design of the lower two fasteners, this is a very useful accessory.

Rx8honey

I agree it was a PITA to install. I did mine about 2 months ago. I actually got in the truck trying to put those stupid lower anchors in and after 30 mins I gave up. I cheated by using a dremel to make the hole a tad bigger.

IMO this is a must have. I hate hearing stuff rattle when I drive so this is a necessity.