Compression test on sat!!!! need advice
05-24-2010, 08:43 AM
#1
Compression test on sat!!!! need advice
Hello guys,
my compression test is on sat, i already accepted the fact that i need a new motor; i performed every possible test to try and find a different outcome and it always came back to the conclusion of low compression.
now the advice i need from you guys is on what to say to the dealer.
(HISTORY) i bought the car from a private dealer in dec 17 2009; she had 78k when i bough it and it's a 2004 mt with 83,200k miles on it (Currently).
recently all the maintanence i have done is:
* New tires
* New water Pump
* 2 Oil Changes (at Firestone)
* Alignment
* Complete Tune-up (except fuel filter)
* CEL Code P2259 which was "fixed by the Privete Dealer"
so my question is what exactly do i need to present to the dealer in order for them to honor the warranty. as you can see from my short history, i havent owned the car for too long. i really dont know how the last owner maintained the vehicle, the car fax showed a few service updates but that was it. so any input guys? sorry for the long post but i just want to be as detailed as possible with you guys, so i can get the most accurate advice
my compression test is on sat, i already accepted the fact that i need a new motor; i performed every possible test to try and find a different outcome and it always came back to the conclusion of low compression.
now the advice i need from you guys is on what to say to the dealer.
(HISTORY) i bought the car from a private dealer in dec 17 2009; she had 78k when i bough it and it's a 2004 mt with 83,200k miles on it (Currently).
recently all the maintanence i have done is:
* New tires
* New water Pump
* 2 Oil Changes (at Firestone)
* Alignment
* Complete Tune-up (except fuel filter)
* CEL Code P2259 which was "fixed by the Privete Dealer"
so my question is what exactly do i need to present to the dealer in order for them to honor the warranty. as you can see from my short history, i havent owned the car for too long. i really dont know how the last owner maintained the vehicle, the car fax showed a few service updates but that was it. so any input guys? sorry for the long post but i just want to be as detailed as possible with you guys, so i can get the most accurate advice
05-24-2010, 09:16 AM
#3
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I bought my 05 a couple of years ago with about 26,000 on the odometer.
Since I've purchased my car, I've done every single service at a local Mazda dealership hoping that builds up a good rapport, along with being very courteous tothe service people.
So that's the effort I've put towards them honoring my warranty since the car didn't come with a maintenance record in case I ever need a new motor.
I'm still not too confident it will happen if/when my motor is toast.
Not sure why I'm telling you the whole story, but I guess it's just a nicer, indirect way to tell you, no they probably will not cover it.
But being extremely nice to the service people when you bring it in might make a difference though, just don't walk in with a sense of entitlement, that'll get you nowhere.
Since I've purchased my car, I've done every single service at a local Mazda dealership hoping that builds up a good rapport, along with being very courteous tothe service people.
So that's the effort I've put towards them honoring my warranty since the car didn't come with a maintenance record in case I ever need a new motor.
I'm still not too confident it will happen if/when my motor is toast.
Not sure why I'm telling you the whole story, but I guess it's just a nicer, indirect way to tell you, no they probably will not cover it.
But being extremely nice to the service people when you bring it in might make a difference though, just don't walk in with a sense of entitlement, that'll get you nowhere.
05-24-2010, 09:34 AM
#5
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Been through this myself.
For starters how is the car driving? what makes you point to the low compression?
You might want to do an inspection of your plugs and coils before going the new engine route,(there's instructions in the DIY section on the forum) These are pretty common failure area's and by the mileage listed all these should have been replace by this point, as you have not owned the car too long you don't it's service history.
Next the water pump, is it a replacement stock one? or the Mazmart one? I suspect the Mazmart one as you mentioned it as a replacement. Consider removing that for the time being, impossible to visually detect but if they determine you need a new engine you would want to take it out any way (I assume you don't want to lose it).
Ask for a compression test , you will likely have to pay for this to get it started. If compression is low the standard procedure is to have a carbon clean service performed. Perhaps spark plugs wires and coils. All this said and they agree, they will need proof of oil service. results are then sent off to Mazda corporate for authorization. I don't know how this is handled on a used vehicle, Dealer choice if there going to be an *** or not, the one I used was very helpful.
For starters how is the car driving? what makes you point to the low compression?
You might want to do an inspection of your plugs and coils before going the new engine route,(there's instructions in the DIY section on the forum) These are pretty common failure area's and by the mileage listed all these should have been replace by this point, as you have not owned the car too long you don't it's service history.
Next the water pump, is it a replacement stock one? or the Mazmart one? I suspect the Mazmart one as you mentioned it as a replacement. Consider removing that for the time being, impossible to visually detect but if they determine you need a new engine you would want to take it out any way (I assume you don't want to lose it).
Ask for a compression test , you will likely have to pay for this to get it started. If compression is low the standard procedure is to have a carbon clean service performed. Perhaps spark plugs wires and coils. All this said and they agree, they will need proof of oil service. results are then sent off to Mazda corporate for authorization. I don't know how this is handled on a used vehicle, Dealer choice if there going to be an *** or not, the one I used was very helpful.
05-24-2010, 10:28 AM
#7
she drive fine if im not driving spirited, if i am driving spirited i get a bad sputter at low rpms and i kinda have to give it more gas from a stop so i dont stall, plus it takes a bit to turn the car on after the car has warmed up. i also have no CEL light on
everthing is OEM on the car, the only mod is a k-n Drop in filter
the water pump is oem, the coils are oem. the coils,plugs and wires were replaced 3 weeks ago when the car flooded.
the compression test is $98 dollars. i'm really broke and i really cant afford to pay for other services as i just finished paying off my nursing classes.
i am taking the car to South motors Mazda, the ppl seem to be alot nicer than the other dealer closest to me (serious bad experience).
everthing is OEM on the car, the only mod is a k-n Drop in filter
the water pump is oem, the coils are oem. the coils,plugs and wires were replaced 3 weeks ago when the car flooded.
the compression test is $98 dollars. i'm really broke and i really cant afford to pay for other services as i just finished paying off my nursing classes.
i am taking the car to South motors Mazda, the ppl seem to be alot nicer than the other dealer closest to me (serious bad experience).
Been through this myself.
For starters how is the car driving? what makes you point to the low compression?
You might want to do an inspection of your plugs and coils before going the new engine route,(there's instructions in the DIY section on the forum) These are pretty common failure area's and by the mileage listed all these should have been replace by this point, as you have not owned the car too long you don't it's service history.
Next the water pump, is it a replacement stock one? or the Mazmart one? I suspect the Mazmart one as you mentioned it as a replacement. Consider removing that for the time being, impossible to visually detect but if they determine you need a new engine you would want to take it out any way (I assume you don't want to lose it).
Ask for a compression test , you will likely have to pay for this to get it started. If compression is low the standard procedure is to have a carbon clean service performed. Perhaps spark plugs wires and coils. All this said and they agree, they will need proof of oil service. results are then sent off to Mazda corporate for authorization. I don't know how this is handled on a used vehicle, Dealer choice if there going to be an *** or not, the one I used was very helpful.
For starters how is the car driving? what makes you point to the low compression?
You might want to do an inspection of your plugs and coils before going the new engine route,(there's instructions in the DIY section on the forum) These are pretty common failure area's and by the mileage listed all these should have been replace by this point, as you have not owned the car too long you don't it's service history.
Next the water pump, is it a replacement stock one? or the Mazmart one? I suspect the Mazmart one as you mentioned it as a replacement. Consider removing that for the time being, impossible to visually detect but if they determine you need a new engine you would want to take it out any way (I assume you don't want to lose it).
Ask for a compression test , you will likely have to pay for this to get it started. If compression is low the standard procedure is to have a carbon clean service performed. Perhaps spark plugs wires and coils. All this said and they agree, they will need proof of oil service. results are then sent off to Mazda corporate for authorization. I don't know how this is handled on a used vehicle, Dealer choice if there going to be an *** or not, the one I used was very helpful.
05-24-2010, 12:40 PM
#8
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With this info
Two other possibility remain. For the starting it could be battery and/or starter (lots on the forum about each). For lack of power after a flood condition could be damaged catalytic converter. The catalytic converter would still be covered under the emissions warranty. These are being mentioned as the dealer will likely go through the same things to check. My experience about getting a new engine is it takes an effort to remove all other possibility first, this is where a dealer you can work with can be very helpful. In presenting your concerns be sure to let them know all the things you have completed particularly the coils, wires, plugs are significant in helping them help you.
Two other possibility remain. For the starting it could be battery and/or starter (lots on the forum about each). For lack of power after a flood condition could be damaged catalytic converter. The catalytic converter would still be covered under the emissions warranty. These are being mentioned as the dealer will likely go through the same things to check. My experience about getting a new engine is it takes an effort to remove all other possibility first, this is where a dealer you can work with can be very helpful. In presenting your concerns be sure to let them know all the things you have completed particularly the coils, wires, plugs are significant in helping them help you.
05-25-2010, 08:39 AM
#9
the battery was replaced with the tune up, and i really dont have the tools to check the cat.
this really is a bummer; i know the whole proof thing is necessary to prove you took care of you engine, but it sucks for people like me who buy the car used, then get screwed later because mazda doesn't want to honor the warranty for lack of info.
it's stupid that u buy an rx8 for enjoyment but in the back of your mind you have to worry about keeping receipts and stuff, because of dumb people who try and abuse the warranty it just really pisses me off; this whole engine situation has put me in a foul mood
i do thank all of you for your input and help!, this forum and it's members have been completely awesome!
this really is a bummer; i know the whole proof thing is necessary to prove you took care of you engine, but it sucks for people like me who buy the car used, then get screwed later because mazda doesn't want to honor the warranty for lack of info.
it's stupid that u buy an rx8 for enjoyment but in the back of your mind you have to worry about keeping receipts and stuff, because of dumb people who try and abuse the warranty it just really pisses me off; this whole engine situation has put me in a foul mood
i do thank all of you for your input and help!, this forum and it's members have been completely awesome!
With this info
Two other possibility remain. For the starting it could be battery and/or starter (lots on the forum about each). For lack of power after a flood condition could be damaged catalytic converter. The catalytic converter would still be covered under the emissions warranty. These are being mentioned as the dealer will likely go through the same things to check. My experience about getting a new engine is it takes an effort to remove all other possibility first, this is where a dealer you can work with can be very helpful. In presenting your concerns be sure to let them know all the things you have completed particularly the coils, wires, plugs are significant in helping them help you.
Two other possibility remain. For the starting it could be battery and/or starter (lots on the forum about each). For lack of power after a flood condition could be damaged catalytic converter. The catalytic converter would still be covered under the emissions warranty. These are being mentioned as the dealer will likely go through the same things to check. My experience about getting a new engine is it takes an effort to remove all other possibility first, this is where a dealer you can work with can be very helpful. In presenting your concerns be sure to let them know all the things you have completed particularly the coils, wires, plugs are significant in helping them help you.
Last edited by mushkid; 05-25-2010 at 08:49 AM.
05-25-2010, 08:51 AM
#10
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A 2004 had a number of recalls, even one possibly requiring the motor be replaced. If these were not done then you may get warranty coverage, but with your miles it will be difficult.
Low compression from wear and age usually caused hard starting with the engine turning aroundfaster than normal and smoothly. Low compression because of a broken or stuck seal will cause a uneven cranking and rougher idle.
Low compression from wear and age usually caused hard starting with the engine turning aroundfaster than normal and smoothly. Low compression because of a broken or stuck seal will cause a uneven cranking and rougher idle.
05-25-2010, 09:58 AM
#11
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Don't get put off what you are going through now, it's just preparation for you to present your case better and with more knowledge. Used vehicle warranty coverage has gone both ways, turned down and just as quickly been approved without issue. You are with in the mileage and still have time to work with your dealer on this. When I had mine replaced I was about 150 miles under the warranty mileage limit.
05-25-2010, 10:02 AM
#12
wow talk about cutting it close lol, i am thinking very optimistically and hoping i dont need a new engine, i hope it's just carbon deposit.
Don't get put off what you are going through now, it's just preparation for you to present your case better and with more knowledge. Used vehicle warranty coverage has gone both ways, turned down and just as quickly been approved without issue. You are with in the mileage and still have time to work with your dealer on this. When I had mine replaced I was about 150 miles under the warranty mileage limit.
05-30-2010, 10:47 AM
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Glad you hear you found a simple solution. I cant get one of my programs to run at the moment to give you accurately corrected numbers, but as an estimation your numbers would be around 7.3 TO 7.4. Your compression between faces is good and you compression between rotors is well withing spec. Your compression is pretty much in the middle. When my engine was replaces I was 7.0 and 5.3 @250rpm. so you are in good shape breath easy.
Further clarification, compression numbers are completed at what ever rpm the starter motor can crank then adjusted if necessary up or down to the 250rpm standard
Specs from the manual
Compression pressure
• Standard: 830 kPa {8.5 kgf/cm2, 120 psi} [250 rpm]
• Minimum: 680 kPa {6.9 kgf/cm2, 98.6 psi} [250 rpm]
• Difference in chambers: Within 150 kPa {1.5 kgf/cm2, 21.8 psi}
• Difference in rotors: Within 100 kPa {1.0 kgf/cm2, 14.5 psi}
Further clarification, compression numbers are completed at what ever rpm the starter motor can crank then adjusted if necessary up or down to the 250rpm standard
Specs from the manual
Compression pressure
• Standard: 830 kPa {8.5 kgf/cm2, 120 psi} [250 rpm]
• Minimum: 680 kPa {6.9 kgf/cm2, 98.6 psi} [250 rpm]
• Difference in chambers: Within 150 kPa {1.5 kgf/cm2, 21.8 psi}
• Difference in rotors: Within 100 kPa {1.0 kgf/cm2, 14.5 psi}
Last edited by RotorWheeee; 05-30-2010 at 11:13 AM. Reason: Clarification
05-30-2010, 12:53 PM
#20
awesome!, i was relived to hear that news. im going to start saving for my shocks now.
Glad you hear you found a simple solution. I cant get one of my programs to run at the moment to give you accurately corrected numbers, but as an estimation your numbers would be around 7.3 TO 7.4. Your compression between faces is good and you compression between rotors is well withing spec. Your compression is pretty much in the middle. When my engine was replaces I was 7.0 and 5.3 @250rpm. so you are in good shape breath easy.
Further clarification, compression numbers are completed at what ever rpm the starter motor can crank then adjusted if necessary up or down to the 250rpm standard
Specs from the manual
Compression pressure
• Standard: 830 kPa {8.5 kgf/cm2, 120 psi} [250 rpm]
• Minimum: 680 kPa {6.9 kgf/cm2, 98.6 psi} [250 rpm]
• Difference in chambers: Within 150 kPa {1.5 kgf/cm2, 21.8 psi}
• Difference in rotors: Within 100 kPa {1.0 kgf/cm2, 14.5 psi}
Further clarification, compression numbers are completed at what ever rpm the starter motor can crank then adjusted if necessary up or down to the 250rpm standard
Specs from the manual
Compression pressure
• Standard: 830 kPa {8.5 kgf/cm2, 120 psi} [250 rpm]
• Minimum: 680 kPa {6.9 kgf/cm2, 98.6 psi} [250 rpm]
• Difference in chambers: Within 150 kPa {1.5 kgf/cm2, 21.8 psi}
• Difference in rotors: Within 100 kPa {1.0 kgf/cm2, 14.5 psi}
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