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Holy smokes. I put a Delphi(?) fuel pump when mine was going, it was about 150$ I think. Been about a year now, so far so good.
I could've found one for less but this was the fastest.
Once it started dying on me in traffic I wasn't going to wait.
My truck is down cause of tree rats.
Got my 1K break-in oil change.
Went to a Valvoline quick change, got 10w30 conventional.
I also brought my own K&N filter with a new Bear Trap wrap around filter magnet on it.
I ran Mobil1 0w syn in the original engine.
I decided to go with cheaper but more frequent changes, hopefully no more than 2k intervals.
Decided against the Sohn adapter for now, given Kyle's reluctance to endorse it.
I bought a new bundle, still in the box.
Also got my transmission and differential fluids changed while I was at it after asking for and getting a nice discount.
Last edited by BigCajun; Mar 15, 2023 at 10:10 AM.
After reading other rebuild threads I'm very disappointed that my compression numbers are only around 7s with a brand new engine.
I would've expected much higher numbers.
I'm wondering if the obvious mishandling of the engine did in fact damage it.
I have no way of proving it obviously, but having a new $6k engine that's already flirting with failing numbers is extremely frustrating.
I think I'll contact Rob at Pineapple to see if he has any thoughts and maybe even MNAO.
Any input besides "It's blowed up" is welcome.
BC-
FWIW,
My newest engine is exactly the same corrected compression on both rotors at 35,000 as it was at 3000 miles if that helps at all. The starter was a lot slower though.
My newest engine is exactly the same corrected compression on both rotors at 35,000 as it was at 3000 miles if that helps at all. The starter was a lot slower though.
I think I'm still less than 2k.
I'm going to check it after 3k.
7s are not failing numbers imo.
I've heard of two seperate occasions from reliable sources, brand new mazda Renesis motors being on 7s.
So with my old man's voice: "they don't make 'em like they used to".
I think the single biggest compression issue for a current Mazda reman or new Renesis is the sloppy factory side seal clearance spec. The selection process for picking side seal length allows for as-new side seal clearances 5x-8x larger than they need to be for the seals not to bind. Guys who grind their own are running .02-.03" and having zero issues (myself included). Mazda did refine the spec to lower clearance, sometime in the production run, previous to that it was even larger. So, whatever compression you have will likely last and maintain for a long time, as it s not a function of poor assembly or shipping damage. So, good news, in a way...
Run lots of premix is my personal advice, if you canned the Sohn.
Last edited by kevink0000; Apr 11, 2023 at 08:54 AM.
I think the single biggest compression issue for a current Mazda reman or new Renesis is the sloppy factory side seal clearance spec. The selection process for picking side seal length allows for as-new side seal clearances 5x-8x larger than they need to be for the seals not to bind. Guys who grind their own are running .02-.03" and having zero issues (myself included). Mazda did refine the spec to lower clearance, sometime in the production run, previous to that it was even larger. So, whatever compression you have will likely last and maintain for a long time, as it s not a function of poor assembly or shipping damage. So, good news, in a way...
Run lots of premix is my personal advice, if you canned the Sohn.
Yeah, I've been adding 8oz. per fillup Lucas semi-syn.
So, after stoopid squirrels chewed up a bunch of stuff under my truck hood, the insurance company was dragging *** causing my truck to spend a month at the stealership, meanwhile my clutch pedal on the 8 went out.
So I drove it for a week or 2 before the stealership agreed to give me a loaner.
Changed the master, still no pedal.
I wasn't up to changing the slave cylinder, so I brought it to a local shop I use occasionally.
They told me I ruined my clutch driving it with no pedal.
Cost me $2400 WITHOUT a new flywheel.
Long story short, f-ing squirrels caused me about $3K and over a months worth of stress.
Moral of this story;
DON'T DRIVE WITHOUT A WORKING CLUTCH!!
Also, SQUIRRELS ARE JUST TREE RATS WITH HAIRY TAILS.
I've been thinking about fresh paint, and with that comes the decision to de-badge or not.
I've thought about it a long time and can't make up my mind.
Congratulations in your new 40th Anniversary!! I've been loosely on the hunt for one here and there. If the right deal comes along I guess. Yours looks to be in great shape! Has the LY been running and driving well? It still looks amazing!
Congratulations in your new 40th Anniversary!! I've been loosely on the hunt for one here and there. If the right deal comes along I guess. Yours looks to be in great shape! Has the LY been running and driving well? It still looks amazing!
Yes, thanks.
I'm loving it, but accounting for the extra wheel width is making preventing curb rash a new priority, and it being so low is forcing me to back into my driveway to keep the lip from scraping on the curb.
It's got a lot of rock chips, and the driver side looks like it got caught in a rockfall, but it's all good.
The LY is running great.
It needs cosmetic work.
The car wash I go to has some rocker panel/wheel washers that is taking paint off my trim, and it's showing it's age.
Hopefully, I can start cleaning up all the little things that are bugging me.
Engine bay is a mess.
It's been fun driving them both.
I went from having 2 8s with bad engines 2 years ago to having 2 with healthy engines.
It's been a blast, but I'm going to need to change my Wankel spanking route.
Smoky's going to catch me if I'm not careful.
Last edited by BigCajun; Apr 23, 2024 at 07:02 AM.
The dents aren't terrible, but they're there and I'm sure it's something that you notice more than you'd prefer to. I have a couple dents on my Nordic Green RX-8 and though minor, they bother me every time I walk by the car.
The LY engine bay isn't awful. It justblooks as though the car gets driven and that's ok as well. An hour with some simple green and some shop rags will have the engine bay looking sharp again for sure! I wish I had two good running RX-8's. Two of them run, so thats a start. Thr NG car is low on compression and can only be moved around or driven very short distances and the BB car runs and drives just fine but is still in storage. My other NG car is completely non running and is filthy from sitting and is heavily rusted. Debating on what to do with it.
Rust and electrical issues are my bugaboos.
I was going to restore my '95 Hardbody 4WD, but the rust had progressed way too far to justify the expense of saving it.
The dents aren't terrible, but they're there and I'm sure it's something that you notice more than you'd prefer to. I have a couple dents on my Nordic Green RX-8 and though minor, they bother me every time I walk by the car.
The LY engine bay isn't awful. It justblooks as though the car gets driven and that's ok as well. An hour with some simple green and some shop rags will have the engine bay looking sharp again for sure! I wish I had two good running RX-8's. Two of them run, so thats a start. Thr NG car is low on compression and can only be moved around or driven very short distances and the BB car runs and drives just fine but is still in storage. My other NG car is completely non running and is filthy from sitting and is heavily rusted. Debating on what to do with it.
I want to find some rodent proof insulation, replace all the rusted hardware with SS, and repaint where the hood gasket has rubbed the paint down to bare metal.
