Aftermarket oil filter
 

Hello there,

I would like to ask if there is any difference in MPG, power, reliability, cooling, etc with the aftermarket oil filters (Mazdaspeed, K&N, etc) compared with the stock Mazda or cheap ones.

Thanks!

I haven't seen any difference in performance or MPG between the Mazda, Fram TG or Prolator PureONE I've used.

No oil filter will impact fuel mileage, but will affect filter quality and oil flow.

While many oil filters filter well, it is also very important to have great "flow" as this helps overall lubrication and cooling of the rotary. For this reason, I use K&N Performance Gold oil filters as they filter well (on par with most) but flow better than any other filter out there.

i use PureONE filters. Cost me $6-7 each (I forget, since I buy them in bulk)

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html

ok, here's the link for where I buy them:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...081855-2474048

I buy them when amazon has them on sale. My last invoice shows $5.88 each.

Jax_RX8, those K&N filters were exactly the ones that made me wonders if they are worth the price and ask here, what it's the model that fits the RX-8?

hmmm, every BISOG review I have seen says that the K&N is garbage.

Agreed. Currently I only use Mazda filters on the 8, but on my 7's I use PureONE filters (the blue one).

FS

I rock the PureONE on my 8

I didn't even know they made one for the 8, but I learn something new every day. I love that filter...

FS

Yes, this is for the exact filter you can drop in your 8:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...081855-2474048

I've been using it for about 15k miles now (5 oil changes), no issues, runs great.

It costs under $6 with free shipping usually... what's the OEM filter cost?

hmm...i really should look into those...the shop where i get it done uses like napa or something iono but they use castrol GTX oil so i go there...maybe if the napa ones arent that great i'll just buy one you guys are talking about and just have them install it...hmm....

Yes, I saw your postings above this one :) Thanks!

OEM at my dealer are like $4.70-ish for four (buy four for the discount). That's IIRC... My 85 RX7 is pushing 185,000 miles and I've stuck with PureONE for as long as I can remember!

FS

The PureOne is a great filter from a single-pass filtration standpoint, but it is also one of the most restrictive filters from a flow perspective. This can cause oil starvation in a performance engine run hard - and if pressure gets to the point that the "by-pass" kicks in (under high loads) then you are getting no filtration at all when the engine it at it's highest load.

I agree K&N is not the best filterer, it is average, but it is the best at flow which is also very important. K&N's ALWAYS filter the oil and have no by-pass installed because they flow so well they are not required. So you are getting filtration even under high load/pressure situations.

In the end, it depends on your priority, and for me I think flow slightly more important than extreme filtering capability - especially the harder you run the car.

IIRC... A spring-loaded "pressure relief valve" built into the oil pump (or near the pump) opens when pressure exceeds a certain limit (typically 50 to 60 psi) and either reroutes oil back into the pump's inlet or the oil pan. This prevents a dangerous buildup of pressure that could rupture the oil filter or blow out press-fit oil plugs.

At idle, most oil pumps do not produce enough flow to force open the relief valve. Oil pumps that are camshaft driven turn only at half engine speed so output isn't great at idle and low rpm. Even pumps that are crankshaft driven and turn at engine speed (or double engine speed in a few instances) don't pump enough oil to overcome the relief valve spring. The relief valve generally only comes into play at higher rpm when the pump's output pushes more oil into the system than it can handle. Then the relief valve opens to vent oil and limit maximum oil pressure until the engine returns to idle or a lower rpm.

If I'm right, I just don't think that our stock system would build up a pressure that great to bypass the filter, unless there's blockage...

FS

Even if the pop-off valve is never activated on a restrictive flow filter, a more restrictive filter will cause reduced oil flow all the time. This impacts total lubrication and cooling all the time.

It is just now being realized that oil flow is actually MORE important than viscosity in providing total lubrication of an engine. Reference below for some good reading

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html

I personally would rather have much more oil flow with a little less filtering than to have less oil flow with more filtering.

It is HP-1008.

I use K&N filters on my other cars but I do NOT recommend you to use it on the 8. THe filter location for our 8 is a bitch just like all 13Bs. Couple days ago I was doing my oil change but my oil filter wench cant take the K&N off because of that *bolt* on the top of the filter. I have to Bang it like crazy for an hour before I can finally take it off ..... and I dont have any other filter at the moment so I dump another K&N in(cuz this filter model works for both my car and my bro's car, got couple of them laying around all the time) ........ hand tighten it this time and hopefully it would be easier for me to get it off next time.

Filters wont add any power to your car, you just want some filter that can filter as much dirty stuff as possible and some filters that can withstand high load (high pressure), Cuz some filters out there (FRAM?) actually fell apart under high stress and u know if the stuff inside falls out and goes into your oil/engine its not going to be funny.

I think so (at least in the US)

Filter # is HP-1008

I use the "bolt" on the end to put on and remove - that is what it is there for. Use a 1" socket with a universal joint attached followed by an extension, easy as pie for me.

Jax Rx8:
You are correct about less flow, however, I do not think this is a major issue as the oil path is from the pan, to the pump, to the engine components, then through the filter back to the pan. Again, this is IIRC. Thus, since the system is wet-sump, I believe it will be more important to maintain a full level in the oil pan than have concerns with flow through the filter (although, yes, flow might be slightly down). But, that's just my two cents.

FS

i actually developed a small leak around the filter neck and the filter when I was using the PureOne, so I switched back to OEM, and no leaks since.

YMMV of course.

I understand the filtration is after the oil has passed through the engine, but this does not change flow dynamics. The bypass that is there is set at a very high rate and rarely comes into play (it's more a safety device) so for all essential purposes, this is still a closed system.

With "closed" systems, the lowest flow rate point (or choke point) in the system dictates the total flow rate for the entire system - in most cases this is the filtration point and in this case the oil filter.

So if you can increase flow capacity in the lowest flow point area (the oil filter in our case), you can increase flow through the entire system (to whatever the new choke point is, which is still likely the oil filter) - thus the importance of the flow capabilities of the oil filters and why I think it is one of the most important attributes in an oil filter.


But, for someone who does not ever drive their car/engine hard, a filter with more emphasis on filtering over flow may be justified - depends on the vehicle and how it is driven.

I knew I'd get this response :) I realize that the choke point would be the filter as all the oil must flow through it. Either way, back to the main topic, you should get a filter that suits your engine demands, lol.

FS

Agreed. Just good to have as much info as possible to make yours decisions. LOL.

Either the Mazda or K&N..I like the flow concept..as for putting it on and off, I only use hand to tighten it..don't use wrench..is that bad? I have yet to see pools of oil on my garage floor..and have it on for nearly 3K..

Anything but FRAM. I read the reviews on their filters--crap!

Hand tightening is fine as long as it does not leak. Check at the bottom of the filter post on the engine block for oil as it will puddle there if it is leaking.

I know about the true *purpose* of the bolt, reason I didnt get the socket and extenstion thing because I had 2 concerns:

Am I going to keep using K&N oil filters ? I think Wix is as good and cost 40% cheaper.

Im a cheap ass so I dont really want to buy another socket just to take the filter off.

So my conclusion would be , this will be my LAST K&N filter for my 8. Wix afterwards.

Would the filters from Atkins Rotary work???
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...1&cat=0&page=1

Since more cars change their oils every 7500 miles, when I change out my oil @3K miles, I do not change the filter since it is at least good for another 3K. Which means, instead of $10/filter, it almost like $5. Of course, if you buy a cheaper filter, the same could be applied..so..more $$ saved ^_^

hmm good idea, maybe i should do that at next oil change :D:

Wix do make very good filters as well - another good alternative.

Wix oil filters generally have very good filtration with pretty good flow, just not as much flow as a K&N. I would choose a Wix over the PureOne because the have similar filtration with the Wix having better flow.

I can get you a 1" socket for cheap if that is really a big factor in your filter choice :)

Actually, the cheaper the filter, the less you save :)

Saving $6 on something I do once every 2 months isn't big on my list.... less particles the better.

Hahahaha..yeah..I only added that because nycps mentioned that the WIX filters were better than K&N and were cheaper..so..in that regard, will some some $$. Granted, those really cheap ones (fram, etc.), will not be worth it..but..like I mentioned, most cars only change their filter every 7500 miles..we have to change ours @3K, so the filter should last another round (at least). Yup..a conspiracy to get our $$ :)

I cant say for sure that WiX will do better than K&N. by looking at the structure design they're about the same. At least both of them wont freaking leak like FRAM does !

I've be using K&N and thinkin' about switching to denso http://sparkplugs.com/results_app.asp

Here is a good website on most oil filters out there. Granted, this was done by an enthusiast, so take with a grain of salt..but, HEY! It is interesting info to digest and might change your opinion on the varieties of oil filters out there..I'm sticking to my K&N..for now (got a nice bulk purchase..hehehehe), but the Premium Plus L30001 seem like a good filter for the $$..

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

Good thread from BITOG on K&N filters and the benefits of "flow".

Notice that "Terry" is an oil analyst and states that although K&N's have less single-pass efficiency than some filters, that he is seeing BETTER wear numbers (from oil analysis) on engines using K&N filters as they go in "by-pass mode" much, much less than other filters because of their high flow - contributing to better total filtering over the entire oil change interval.

He also recommend the AMSOIL Ea filter as well.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...=15#Post733143

I wonder what happen to him, he hasnt update it for so long.

Another thing I dont like about K&N is the *hard to get* factor.

My Local pepboys should have it but for some reason they're almost always out of stock (at least the size that I need, HP-1008)

WiX is just easy for me to buy ....

Well, I still have another K&N around. Im pretty sure its quality product. but Im Lazy so I almost always go by with whatever easier for me to get
(Maybe I should change that habit because I hate myself so much after I pour Mobil1 Extended Performance into my engine ..... RP RP RP RP RP I love you!)

Someone asked about the NAPA filter. I think they are made by WIX.

I've used K&N on my Cobra for the last 3 years and on my 8 since i bought it new in May/06. Never had any problems with it.

Guess I shouldn't be so surprised to find that the most expensive ISN'T always clearly the best.

Aside from the aforementioned links, is there anywhere where actaul professional testing of these filters has been done?

Just as with oil, its always so hard to decide with so many alternatives. Never thought about the stock Mazda filter, but might start to hop on that. Is Mazda the only place you can pick them up from?

Oil Filter
 

I use Fram Tough guard,It cost me about $5

I like the Mobil 1 filter.

OMG, that filter SUCK ASS ! (unless they changed their design since then, base on the information from one of the oil filter study test)

but FRAM has a really bad name to being with ... I wouldnt touch that.

I would rather go for OEM filter than FRAM ....

Don't use FRAM!!!!

They are

I wouldn't - the filters they have listed are for the 7, not 8, and look to be a standard diameter filter instead of the smaller diameter the 8 uses.

In Europe Bosch filters are pretty common in stores, do you know how good/bad they're?