I am quite the traditionalist, I do the usual 3k miles, and change oil filter every other oil change.

 

So I am about to hit 102k miles and it's time for her oil change. I've always used Castrol GTX 5w-20 with a WIX oil filter.

My question: Now that I am over 100k, does anyone recommend going to Castrol GTX High Mileage? Or any other high mileage oils?

I'm curious if they provide any additional benefits versus what I am using now?

Also, can anyone provide their experience with WIX oil filters and suggestions for other oil filters?

 

Hell, yeah, I would!

High mileage oils generally are thicker than the weight says on the bottle; just like GC 0w30 is about the same viscosity as Mobil 1 0w40.

Also, there's seal conditioners that make sure they swell, not shrink, for possible worn shaft seals.

You're 5w20 story shows that you can run it, but your long cruises on the highway will allow a light weight.

I'd never run a 5w20 in any engine that is ever run full throttle for more than a minute to blow carbon, and by now there has to be bigger clearances, so time to thicken up.

There's a recent oil filter study out (google it), and I'm liking Mobil 1 real well, especially since I can get free filter deals with my Mobil 1 0w40.

There, I've shown my cards; I run 0w40.

 

Make another 100,000 miles!

You'll get there again

 

Based on my online research, higher mileage oils seem to serve those cars that have leaky seals or gaskets, or black exhaust coming from their car. Other than that, I cannot seem to find any additional benefits from using it in my car. I do not have any of the said symptoms.

Perhaps the motto : If it ain't broke, don't fix it?

 

...or don't fix it if it ain't broke.

 

Hello all,

I just wanted to let you know I hit 130,000 miles yesterday and the car is still running great. Things to note since 100k:

- I still use Castrol GTX 5w-20

- I changed my oil intervals from 3k to 5k.

- I rotate my tires at every oil change, Kumho Ecsta SXT

- With my 75 mile daily commute, I'm averaging about 2,500 miles/month

- I had a squeaky clutch pedal bracket so fixed that at the dealer, no more squeaking

- Replaced the battery, that was expected since I still had original battery

- Replaced the brakes pads for the very first time @ 109,300. Since a majority of my commute is hwy, I was not surprised to see my original pads last so long.

- Replaced the plugs, wires, and coils @ 129,xxx miles. The last time I had changed any of those was probably 30,xxx miles. Interesting thing is that the plugs didn't look bad when they switched them out. I was expecting some sort of change in performance, but the car seems to run the same, albeit, it runs GREAT!

Other than that, the engine runs great. If there's any kind of special things I should be paying attention to at this kind of mileage, your keen wisdom is much appreciated.

 

Sound exactly like my car at 130K. Runs great, I haven't changed the plugs since 45K, need to do that soon but it can wait. Only issue I had was a stealership not putting the plug in all the way and my tranny fluid dripped out, had to get a new one but it was probably for the best since it was one of the last ones they had completely brand new, at least that's what they told me. My goal is to make it to 200K and put in a new engine when the time comes.

 

Congrats!

Do you do that "premix" thing?

Has your oil ever run so low as to turn the warning light on?

Just trying to narrow down the "secret" to keeping my (replacement engine) going

 

What year are each of your 130k cars?

 

I do not do any Pre-mix and don't plan on it, mostly because I'm uneducated on the subject.

I've had the warning light come on probably once, a little after I had bought the car. Obviously being a newbie, I wasn't strict about the oil maintenance at that point in time. Now, I check the oil weekly. I don't feel the need to check it more because oil consumption seems to be very little between each oil change.

I wouldn't say there's any secret, but just the majority of "problem threads" compared to "success threads" like these.

For the record, I am not a maintenance guru, I can only do the basic stuff like oil changes and tire rotations.

 

I have only one 130k car, with the original engine: 2005 Mazda Rx8

My father has a 03' tundra with about 140k miles and my brother has a 07' 350z with about 60k miles.

 

I'm thankful to have a good dealership here. Family Parkway Mazda in Kingwood, TX, they have yet to do me wrong so I highly recommend them to anyone in the area.

 

I think we can remove the exclamation point at the end of this title now.

 

Good call although I do not know how to do that.

 

Alas, you can't.

 

I am new to the RX-8 but I thought there was a 90K miles major engine rebuild. Guessing it consists of engine breakdown and rotor seals. Do not know how hard it is to pull the engine. Transmission sounds good.

 

Read this thread that was earlier today on some information regarding pulling and rebuilding an engine: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/need-sdvice-233913/

And no there isn't, and never has been, a scheduled rebuild for the engine.


Perhaps you should check out the common myths debunked and truths about our car here: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/

 

Any idea what a ROM for a motor core change will cost?

 

Motor core exchange costs are usually in the range of $300 to $500. Some rebuilders will credit you more if they can salvage any internals.

 

It came from a Mazda's warranty site regarding type I RX-8 Mazdas. The warranty was for 90K miles or 5 years to rebuild the engine on type I RX-8's. The warranty calls for re-coring the engine. Doesn't sound right to me. I think they are fixing the rotor tips..again.

 

Thanks for the info. Just wanted to know where it was between $500 and $5,000. $5000 would have made me look at other options. Thanks for the feedback. I can somewhat sleep tonight.

 

Hmm, maybe I'm mis-understanding you?

I was referring to the core exchange charge. You buy an engine for $3,500, plus $500 core charge. You get refunded the $500 when you send them your blown engine.

The cheapest reman engines that are good quality are Mazmart for about $3,500. Mazda is more expensive (about $5,000) AND lower quality. Only cheaper options are shady rebuilds or finding a used engine.

 

The repair shop trying to fix fix my fuel indication system whichi it believes to be one of my fuel senders is bad. This sound reasonable, but the RX-8 series I also has has a fuel transfer pump that may also be bad. Car never shows more than half a tank when full at the pump.

Any thoughts? I think the transfer is bad.

 

If the gauge never shows more than half a tank when full at the pump, then yes, it's likely a bad fuel level sensor sender.

There is no "fuel transfer pump", just the primary fuel pump. Fuel is balanced between the two sides of the hump in the middle of the tank through a siphon tube, which can easily be overcome through various driving conditions, making the fuel gauge wildly inaccurate at times when you have less than half a tank. This is not a problem with more than half a tank, as the fuel is higher than the hump in the middle.


Are these various issues all related?

The picture you are suggesting between your various posts is of one very unhealthy RX-8.... Many of the automotive terms you are using suggests that you aren't in the US, but I see your IP is based in Dallas TX, which makes me question where you are getting your information from.

Perhaps it would be better to tell the whole story? So we can assist you more comprehensively?