Strokercharged95GT 13b-REW Build
 

I recently rebuilt a REW motor, housings refurbished by freelance, intake and exhaust ported, all new seals and springs, mirror finished removed from side plates by Lynn Hanover method. The engine is back together and while turning the motor over by hand there is a notable drop in compression on the front rotor, 1 face only. I am going to pull the motor back apart to see what the problem is. I assume it's a side seal issue. I was having a problem getting some of the new file fit side seals to spring back out of the side seal grooves and put some of the old side seals (longest I had) in the rotor with a clearance of 0.0075. I know they are supposed to be between .002 and .006 (max 0.015). While this is the issue that I will check on first, is there anything else that I should look for? Is it normal for there to be some discrepancies in compression before the motor is broken in? Any help on guidance would be appreciated. thanks

If the seals are tight then you can use a bit of 600 paper or an old seal to clean out the grove better. They need to move freely or you will have problems with that face

You would be better if you are pulling it apart to re-cut a seal and re-do that one...it isn't a huge problem..but why not make it the same as the rest

Yeah I figured that's what I was going to have to do. I worked on that groove for a bit with lubricant and Emory paper and the new seal just kept getting jammed. I may just have to buy a new seal, recut, and try again. Atkins doesn't appear to sell them individually, any reccomendations?

They should....just call them.

Or you can get them at your local Mazda dealer as well..they can order them in a few days usually

I just disassembled the motor and checked the side seals from the face with low compression. The side seal is definitely warped. I may have put a little too much pressure on the side seal when grinding it down with my sharpening stone. Under close view it definitely has a "S" characteristic too the shape. I better recheck them all. I spent so much effort checking corner seal gap, I missed the warpage completely. Lesson learned.

Attachment 220201

When comparing the Renesis front cover to the REW front plate, there are two distinct differences in the bolt locations. It looks like I will have to remove the one stud from the REW front plate, machine a thread about 20mm over in the REW plate to accept a through bolt from the Renesis front plate. About the second misaligned bolt near the front stationary gear, it doesn't look like there is any material to correct this error in the REW plate. I assume then that this bolt is just left out during assembly? Thanks in advance.

EDIT - NM I figured it all out...

Attachment 220202

I am just getting ready to order my mount.

I am trying to decide between RX8Performance and Banzai mount. The RX8 performance mount has been proven to work on many of the builds on here. But the Banzai mount looks nice as well. Anyone have any thoughts or experiences with either mount? The Banzai mount does come with new engine bushings, but the rx8 performance mount does look more solid...

RX-8 13B-REW Crossmember

13B Engine Swap by RX-8 Performance | RX8Performance.com

They both have good reviews it seems with the second one being more popular from what I have seen on builds but the Banzai one is fairly new as well.

I went with the Banzai Mount, I ordered it last Wednesday and it was at my door on Friday. I was able to order and have the mount on my car in about 50 hours. I am about 80% complete fabricating the turbo manifold out of 2" 16 gauge steel. Does anyone have any thoughts on the size down-pipe I should run. I have 3" left over from the down-pipe I fabricated on my mustang. Should I go bigger? Is it worth much? I will be running this down-pipe back into stock exhaust system, so moving up to a 4" may not be worth the effort. Overall I'm only going to be shooting for 350hp. Also, I am using a Precision T4 66mm (undivided) with .81 AR (3 inch v-band discharge).

3" is good for way over 350HP..... Mine is 3" and a shop car that made 600 was using a 3" as well

16 Ga steel tube is not going to cut it on a 13B turbo manifold unless you just intend to putter around town ...

Sch 10 stainless is a more common choice for a stout (support-bracket free), long lasting rotary turbo manifold, mild/carbon steel will need to be about double or Sch 40 due to it's lower temperature limit


.

Good catch.....Ya..Sch 10 is the way to go.....2" runners and you will never have to make another one

Can't go wrong with either REW mount.
I've had both on my car... They both work well.

.

Since I'm nearly done, I will just run it until it becomes a problem then make a new thicker manifold down the road (gives me another project). I will be going with the 3" down pipe then.

EDIT: I just broke down and ordered a bunch of 2" schedule 40 pipe to redo the manifold, at least I have a good template to work off of.... Cost was $160. I paid about $70 for all of the 16 gauge stuff. I also went with a divided T4 flange this time. I was able to shape the metal of the 16 gauge to undivided flange, I think this stuff will be too thick for that...

oxy-acetylene torch with a rose bud tip and you can make steel form to anything you want ...

kind of what would have happened with 16 Ga steel tubing except the rotary exhaust discharge would be the torch

I need some criticism on the manifold routing. This was my first attempt. The T4 flange was in front of the thermostat housing, which left me only one of the aluminum fitting to be cut and re-soldered. The tubing was about 3/4 of and inch in front of the front sway bar and about an inch from the passenger frame rail. I know that I will have to move/relocate the ECU this way. Is there any downside to this other than moving weight farther up in the engine compartment? Suggestions welcome!

Attachment 220023

Attachment 220024

Exhaust options
 

Attachment 219921

I have 2"Sch 40 manifold complete (minus wastegate flange). I'm contemplating whether I should reduce the 3" downpipe back into the factory exhaust or just scrap the entire factory exhaust system and just put a muffler in the location of the cat pipe and run a turndown at the back of the muffler. On my mustang I run a small 2 chamber muffler (no cats) and the turbo keeps it relatively quiet. Will the turbo and one muffler keep the exhaust noise somewhat tame?

Looking for some ideas. I would like to run the turbo to intercooler pipe beneath and around to the intercooler rather than following the same route as the intercooler to throttle pipe. Having fabricated the turbo manifold as far forward as the sway bar would allow and the size of my turbo has put the turbo right on top of the battery and computer brace. Has anyone cut this thing off to regret it later? Im thinking maybe run some bracing to the engine compartment frame rails and cutting just a section out. If anyone has dealt with this issue before, I would appreciate any advice before I start cutting....

Attachment 219650

A pic of the nearly completed manifold, minus recirculated wastegate.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5d8b59ee55.jpg

Mines gone...never noticed any problem...it's not structural ....the cross member is right below it and a lot stronger

It likely has some small contribution, but the primary purpose is to support the the OE intake and battery.

Also wrt your prior post, exhaust backpressure + turbo = no bueno

The factory exhaust is not designed for FI flow rate

Yep going to remove the cross beam, just wanted some assurance on it. Im running the down-pipe back into the factory system for now. I just wanna get the swap running then I can worry about doing the easy upgrades later. My JGS 50mm gate just came in so that will be up next. Should have down-pipe, turbo manifold, and turbine housing ready to go to the coaters in next few weeks...

Update: Just had no choice but to cut the factory crash beam. Rather than have nothing, I cut it down from 4.5" to 1.5". I cut up the removed portion and have welded in a box section in the middle. I still have to box the ends up for added strength. Something's better than nothing...

Attachment 219599

I am looking forward to my next few moves. I plan on getting Adaptronics to control the car. Since it uses VE tuning an not a MAF transfer function to control air/fuel, is the MAF necessary? I may want to use the MAF voltage to tune methanol in the future, so should I just plumb it in anyway? Will the ECU flip out without it? Iv'e always used MAF tuning before, so its always been a necessity.

Also with injector staging, I plan on running 550 primary, then 1000's for secondary and tertiary. Is there any reason to use 725's or 850's on the secondary's instead of 1000's. I don't wanna buy anything twice if I can help it.

I'm working on battery relocation, computer relocation, and plumbing the radiator in the next few weeks/months.

Thanks,

John



Attachment 219509

Looking to mount my 10 AN fitting for the turbo drain. Any reason why I wouldn't want to drain the turbo effluent into the front cover nearest the turbo (assuming it doesn't interfere with pulleys or belts). I'm worried that if place it near the front of the oil pan it may come close to interfering with the front sway bar during engine install/removal + would rather not have to go under the car to attach/remove.

Also, is there any reason I cant mount m oil pressure sending unit between the turbo and turbo feed line from the block... I have don't this on my mustang an the readings are fine.

Attachment 219051

You can drain to the front cover. It would also be fine to put the oil pressure sending unit on the turbo feed line but why would you want to do that?

Tapping the front cover there for the turbo drain would not be advised.


.

I don't have a sandwich plate for the oil filter and running this $8 fitting is far easier.

Attachment 219048

Due to the way the turbo mounts, the turbo drain is slightly cocked to the driver side approximately 10 degrees. Running a 10 AN line from the turbo over to the oil pan would take probably 24-30 inches of ss line and the angle would be pretty flat in some areas. I would think a shorter, steeper gravity drain would be better. Is there a better area on front cover? the REW front cover has a drain on the bottom for the stock TTs

Put it in the stock front drain location..you can use a turbo drain flange with a -10 male with very slight mod...all you need to do is countersink the front cover bolt and use a hex head flush mount bolt. I'll see if I can find a picture around someplace...super easy :)

Ah okay, but what about the stock oilpressure sending unit location? Or are you talking about for an aftermarket gauge?

On a Renesis front cover?

Yes it will be for an aftermarket gauge, and ya that is most definitely a renny front cover.

I have a 10 AN bulkhead fitting and a aluminum weld on male fitting, I just wanna make sure I put the drain in the best location.

Ah okay, yeah that will be fine for an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.


I don't think the location you are pointing too on the front cover will work but all I have is memory to go off of, :lol:.

Maybe here if you can do it without compromising the front cover.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0350b06093.jpg

You need to tap the renny front cover lower, I'll get you a pic of mine.

.

Yeah it looks like I can shoe horn it in there. I'll wait to see where fire has his and then go from there. Thanks for the help.

LOL...thought you had an REW front cover 😊

front cover tapped
 

Here's mine
Front then back.

Got the drain completed, the 10 AN line is a straight shot to the front cover. With 45 degree swivel fittings on each end, the line is easily moved around to clear anything it needs to.

Attachment 219042

Attachment 219043

Attachment 219044

Question about the front cover o-ring. I have seen that rx7 people do not use the front cover o-ring when they use a rx8 front cover gasket. I have also seen people still use the front cover o-ring and the rx8 gasket. I am using the rx8 front cover a new rx8 front cover gasket. I am looking for a definitive answer if I should use the o-ring and front cover gasket or just the gasket. It appears that the front cover teflon oring is used in the 13brew because the front cover gasket does not include sealing in this area. Any help would be appreciated.

I am installing my Adaptronics Select on my car. I have both narrowband's and a prosport wideband installed on the car. I didn't realize that the adaptronics used the upstream 02 for its calculations. I am planning on leaving everything in place and simply running the 0-5v output wire from the prosport wideband kit and tapping that into the narrowband harness.... I see that the front o2 sensor has 4 wires, 2 in and 2 out. It looks like the two output wires from the 02 sensor to the ECU are blue/orange and pink. Does anyone know which one of these wires I would connect my 0-5v wideband output into?????

Thanks

Update: Been in communication with Adaptronics staff, they have given me some pointers on how to use the RX8 PNP unit with the REW swap. They walked me though setting me up the wideband through the APV input. Began cranking the car yesterday to build some oil pressure, but blew the 100 amp inline fuse. Added an additional ground to the starter, but now im waiting for amazon to deliver me some additional fuses.

Subbed, Will be following closely.

Should not blow fuses, mine cranked right up after instal

Motor kicks over fine now, I originally tried cranking over the motor with a 13 year old red top that was low on charge. Also. only had one small ground to the motor. I added a 2awg wire from the Ac compressor to the shock tower. Been spinning the motor with the spark plugs out, oil is moving around the motor, but I am getting oil weeping out of the oil pedestal mount at the rear iron while oil pressure builds. Going to try and make my own gasket instead of modifying an rx8 gasket. Will try some hylomar and some torque on the bolts. My next option would be to buy a CXRacing pedestal mount and use an inline filter between the oil cooler and line into the motor. Will wait another week for a $5 part. Getting closer.

Attachment 218751
Attachment 218752

Hi guys. Im new here and gonna get my rx8 soon ! I have a questions, please help me. My friend offered me an oem 04 rx8 m/t and 04'rx8 with swapped engine. 13B rew fd3s. The oem one cost more expensive than the 13B rew one. Which one is better ? Which is have less problem. I'd like to have an turbo on my rx8, so , which is better? Rx8 engine with additional turbo. Or 13b rew twinturbo? Thanks guys.

I think the consensus would be

REW = More Power, More Expensive, More Reliable, Harder to Install
MSP = Less Power, Less Expensive, Less Reliable, Easier to Install

Cx racing adaptor wont fit. Check with forcefed they make a really nice one for our application

Do you mind posting a link or contact info, there are a ton of Force-fed shops and I can't find anything about an oil pedestal mount. I want a backup plan in case I cant get this gasket to seal.

Thanks

ForceFed 604 852-3755

#108 31120 Peardonville Road
Abbotsford BC V2T 6K7

Ask for Marko or Taylor

Here's the pict of rew engine. Is this good? Or better buy an msp one?

Check livewire build thread i posted the pics of the part in question there.