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Just a friendly warning for people wanting to do the REW swap.
First add everything you will need up on a excel sheet and it will likely approach 15k if you use solid parts. Realize that this swap will take you a year or more to get running and probably another year to get running reliably and at high horsepower.
After you have done all of that, just buy the swap from me at a 50% discount and I'll throw in the car for free and save 1000 hours of your life....
Seriously through there is probably 10x as much work behind the scenes that is done for each step posted. Almost everything has to be modified, test fit, and installed/reinstalled 5x.
I'm just trying to remember where mine is..... I want to say there is a port on the back side of that thermostat housing between where you have it now and in front of the FPR. Pretty sure that's where mine is. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that current location you have is post thermostat, meaning it would only read actual coolant temp after thermostat opens?
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; Apr 14, 2021 at 04:59 PM.
3 coolant ports behind there. The first picture that one obviously wouldn’t work. Then the two on the back of water pump red is factory water temp sensor and the black is block of for the factory coolant fan sensor I believe. I think the temp sensor can go there just have to figure out thread Ana get and adapter
3 coolant ports behind there. The first picture that one obviously wouldn’t work. Then the two on the back of water pump red is factory water temp sensor and the black is block of for the factory coolant fan sensor I believe. I think the temp sensor can go there just have to figure out thread Ana get and adapter
Yes I was talking about the back of the water pump, I believe mine is in the factory water temp sensor location.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Why does where it’s shown in the picture not work? Isn’t that the coolant discharge housing out of the engine?
What is the other sensor further down by the radiator hose discharge nozzle with the black wire and white connector?
This is where I was unsure, yes that is the discharge to the Radiator... would that not have zero flow until the thermostat is opened?
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; Apr 15, 2021 at 04:07 PM.
Pretty sure it flows out the upper hose nozzle over to the AST and back to the radiator discharge side per the flow diagrams that were posted.
Even if it didn’t, I can’t see it being that much different given the proximity. However, that was why I asked about what the other sensor is; wondering if it could go there instead.
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Yeah but isn't the thermostat sandwhiched between your fill point and the pump housing? My question is (and I'm asking for my own knowledge as well); won't everything forward of the thermostat not have any flow through it until it reaches temp and the thermostat begins opening?
Regardless, IMO the back of the thermostat housing is the best location as that should be the hottest part of your coolant loop, directly out of the block if I'm picturing the flow path correctly.
One other curiousity question.... and maybe this is just an illusion based on camera angles.... but is your aftermarket idler pulley blocking the turbo intake? Are you planning to run a filter or any intake piping off of the turbo?
I have the BT Idler pulley from Pineapple racing. Haven't put it on yet, it's with the engine builder to install with my rebuild now, but my concern was similar to what I'm seeing there, not sure if it will fit with my turbo placement or not yet.
your turbo placement is quite different; further out and not angled per your pic posted a few comments above while his is closer and angled over towards it. Looks like yours would clear, but we’ve already established what an REW noob I am so take it with a bucket of salt.
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The thermostat and accurate temp readings make sense. I will just get an adapter for on the back of the water pump housing to 1/4 npt. I believe it is like m12 or m10 maybe if anyone knows that would be helpful if not I can just pull out the bolt that is blocking it off and figure out the thread. To rotary machine rx yes the idle pulley is right in the way of the turbo I have the ffe one they have a template that you can print off to see if it will interfere with the turbo inlet but you already have one so I guess that might not help. At the moment I don’t plan on running any piping or a filter which also kinda scares me but there is just no room but in the future if I can find a short enough filter I would love to put that on.
I also agree with what team said as mine is angled over based off what your turbo looks like in your pictures it does appear more straight and should fit as if mine was angled toward the passenger side frame rail like 30 degrees or maybe 1 1/2- 2 inches it should clear but be close. Rotary machine I would think yours would fit based of pics but could be close and I’m not familiar with the brand of pulley you have could be different from ffe pulley but I would assume it’s very similar.
New wheels on 😀. Enkei RPF1 17x9.5 +38 offset. Painted black because this size only comes in silver. Tire is a toyo Proxes R1r 255/40 r17 very happy with how they look got the custom center caps and the red logo as well.
Thanks man I agree. But yeah that was my thought get a wider tire as I was on 18x8.5 but I wanted wider and to not rub and still be able to drive hard and 17 tires and cheaper.
I love the R1R; knocked off a few memorable wins running them in the street tire class back when they were 140TW and permitted, but you’ll probably need the 275/40–17 with a slight fender lip roll to keep from roasting them up in short order.
if you’re racing then 10” - 11” would be better, though I have raced with 295 Hoosiers on 8” wheels, they’ll be fine. On 9.5 +45 they would likely clear, but with +38 it might rub on the rear fender lip extension. Maybe not, it will be close.
Well once I burn off the 255 I will look into getting the 275. I mean I do like traction and so plan on doing auto cross and just open track days once running reliable. Made more progress today finally got my fuel injectors after a 6 month wait ended up getting the 1700 secondarys so I could stop waiting for them but still have the 1050 primarys and the 1700 will probably work better for me anyway not so overkill. Got the rail and injectors mounted no issues there very happy. Also mounted battery box in trunk as I am going v mount ic waiting on parts for that. Figured out where it would fit best and just drill some holes had to counter sink to bolts so battery will sit flush. Made some aluminum backing plates as it didn’t just bend the sheet metal turned out great very solid. Will most likely lay down a rubber mat just so battery isn’t sitting on the counter sink bolts and to help with vibration and noise.
Update! haven’t posted in a long time been very busy with work lots of overtime. Even though the busy schedule I spent some late nights in the garage and made a lot of progress. Fuel system is done. Fuel cell is in all lines ran ended up going in series not parallel.
Ic is mounted turned out good. Some coolant lines ran turbo oil lines done and heat wrapped doing the oil return on the turbo was a pita. Cut back and rewelded the Greddy intake elbow to clear the alternator. Alternator and belt are also on. I’m sure there is a few other little things that I’m missing. Need to do v mount radiator and get fans. run oil lines to remote oil filter and the new coolers still waiting on the oil filter block. Need oil filler neck. Hot side ic piping. Run a few more coolant lines and then electrical and ecu. Hope all is well with everyone. Very pleased with how it’s coming along so close but so far last 20% takes all the time.
