yo dznutzuk i've been reading up since im starting my project and i saw u are using the bre front cover and reni e throttle, can you please post or give some insight on the actual wiring. thanks....

Well I'm using a standalone Haltech E8. The wiring stays the same, leave the stock harness where it is(I removed unnecessary plugs such as injectors, ignition, and some electronic valves). I used the stock tps signal and attached it to the Haltech. You can use any front cover you want, but you need to mount the stock trigger wheel and it's sensor to have the power steering work and the stock tachometer.

thanks for the easy way out you saved me alot of trouble in the future.

Here's a tiny update, I ended using the stock intake box as it's sooo thick and shields the radiator heat very nicely, along with the front bumper (rotor)intake straight to the intake box makes for coool temps! Unfortunately I haven't had it tuned yet as I'm waiting for another 2 cars to finish the break-in period before we fly a guy over here from the states. :(

that looks really neat--nice job

Thanks OD!

so you used the RX8 motor mounts without modifing them on both sides? or did you make your own motor mounts? thank you.

Whatever you do you have to modify the stock mounts and tap the side plate for 1 of the screws(depending on which engine you use). At first I only had a single runner going through the mount(old setup). Now(new setup) I have cut the top part and have two true equal length runners passing through going to the BW.

awesome! now what about fuel? did you use the same fuel pump? do the fuel lines on the 13bre fit the lines on the rx8?

Looks great. Still has an OEM feel to it.

Fuel system consists of an Aeromotive 340, you use the stock RX8 feed line for the external fuel pressure regulator return and make a new -AN6 from the rear to the front for the new feed line.

very interested in doing this swap. what do you think you spent in total?

Darkness, waaay too much! I bought a couple of expensive parts that I shouldn't have. Like a exedy hyper single clutch as I had plans to use the stock fd transmission(whole) then kept the stock 6speed and ended up making a custom one. Then I got rid of that and hybrided another transmission. Blew the first engine since it was untuned. If I did everything right the first time(virtually impossible) I could have done a 3rotor instead. At some point in time you lose count of $$$....

not keeping count is the best advice :uhh:

I actually have it all written down, but I'm afraid to do the mass calculation...

This would make a great how to article, many want an external pressure regular.

talk to dannobre

thats why the forums are so beautiful. hopefully we can learn from those who pioneered before us. I am going to try this in a few small stages.

rebuild core fd3s Goopy seals
stock twins
haltech
then back to the drawing board based on results after swap.

^ stock twins wont fit down there, unless you do major work.

needed that info, I hadnt checked yet. I just happened to have stock twins on hand. thanks bro.

yes please can you let us know around how much this complete build cost, im getting a spare 13b-rew from my brother that im planing on rebuilding and installing im my rx8 but before that i would like to know how much everything would come up to and are the clusters working ok like are there any check lights on?

Allow at least 20k

Godshand, whatever my builldup cost is, it won't be the same for others as I did just about everything myself-except for the tig welding. What you have to consider is prices for all the parts:

1.) Good clean ported engine(I also used 3mm seals)
2.) turbo and wastegate(I have a S363 and a ebay 50mm wastegate)
3.) Standalone ecu(I'm running a Haltech E8)
4.) Aeromotive 340l fp and fuel pressure regulator along with new fuel lines, 4new injectors
5.) Custom manifold and full 3in exhaust
6.) Intercooler, blow off valve and piping
7.) Various gauges
8.) Various brackets and redesigned engine brackets.

So you can probably figure out prices by that list except for #8. And yes everything in the cluster works just as it should. I do have the check engine light on(only) and that's only because I haven't re-installed the stock o2 sensors. It's not something I really cared about, everything else is fine including the dsc traction control(works with both setups-mechanical and electronic throttle body).

thanks for the info man, im just asking cause people are telling me its going to cost the same as installing a 20B so i figured for that i will just go turbo and just run around with 350hp, but your info is really helpful, im going to try and get something similar to you but im going with some different seals the 2mm seals from RXparts.com are really good, Roan Farquharson has them on his 9.5s street RX-7, im also going to go with the Haltech platinum sport 1000 to make sure everything in the car is running good and for a turbo maybe a GT35R BB turbo or a precision T76 turbo. i want to be able to drive the car around on a daily basis and road race with it or 1/4 on the weekends...

Using the same coils on the renesis miata, really happy with them runnign around 5ms dwell.. even when the plug where so wet the fuel dripped out, let the coils fires them half an hour (output test on the megasquirt) put them in, works perfect again.. in comparison with stock ign setup the plugs are already fooled before you even cranked =)

So out of curiosity, Would it not be possible to raise the engine 1/2" with the renesis mounts, or redesign that mount so that the motor would sit higher and not require a custom pan. Or did you no want to cut/weld a notch out in the firewall?

By raising the engine higher it would also have to be moved forward to clear the firewall. Although you could cut the firewall-which I am very strongly against in any car. But cutting the firewall and designing the engine brackets totally different so it sits higher(also by doing this you're raising the transmission+ppf frame and driveshaft)is much more work than just making a new oil pan. By using the a different lim my setup fits perfectly. Btw, you'd need more than 1/2 if you are going to use the stock 13bre oil pan.

Ahh gotcha! Yeah I'm not sure how that compares to my 13B-TII Oil pan, I'm just looking at mine and it looks rather large!

I guess I will just do like you and if it looks like a problem find another pan or graft a Rx8 pan onto it.

I was told to use a 12A front cover and pan to raise the motor, but if it doesn't really raise it due to the issues you talked about above, then maybe its just to use a thinner pan of a 12A. I'm gonna try to find the oil pan differences: 12A, 13BT, REW

Also I was wondering if you have a picture close up of the oil filter pedestal issue you ran into...

Easiest way to deal with the oil pedestal issue is to use a remoet mount oil filter..or an RX-8 one I believe will fit as well...

Yeah I was planning on remote mount, however if the 8 one fits... I saw one guy had his mounted sideways not sure what pedestal that one is.

The remote filter kits seem to all have the fittings at 0* angle off the top. I'm assuming there is enough room for 2 - 90* AN10 fittings to attach to the male fittings on the relocate kit.

Truth, best way to do it....

RX-8 oil filter pedestal on REW(should be the same as TII) w/relocation kit.

My Set up has changed a little since the pic but you get the idea.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k8...CD6A68CBA4.jpg

Hey Chris did a very detailed thread on his car, check it out: RX-8 13B-RE conversion! - RX7Club.com

I didn't end up using RX-8 mounts, that was just me brainstorming in the initial stages of the build. If you go through the thread, you will see the mounts I ended up making out of thick steel.

The reason I didn't use the RX8performance conversion mount is because it did not fit the engine I wanted, I used a 13B-RE not a REW. The good thing is that if I want to fit a 20B down the road, my mounts will bolt right up as the 13B-RE and 20B-Re use same mounting points.

Cheers!

sorry, just saw that as I was reading through and just came back to edit, but you beat me to it. My apology for jumping to conclusions too early.

Aw man, no apologies needed. :icon_tup:

I welcome the discussion.

Cheers!

Hey Chris would you have had oil pan issues as well if you didn't use the greddy pan?

Yes you would if you use the RX-8 front cover. It makes the engine shoter by about 1/2".

Chris

Yeah I saw how you tackled that issue.

I meant with ground clearance... With the stock pan and your custom mounts did you need to goto the greddy pan for ground clearance or did you do it for more volume/baffling?

I had no issues with clearance using the oem rx8 or greddy pan. I could see the posibility of issues with the stock 13B-RE oil pan because it hangs lower than the rx8 one.

The actual reason I switched to the greddy pan, besides the fact that i had it laying around, is that the greddy pan has a rigid flange all the way around and that helped with sealing at the front using the "clamps" I made.

C

Ahh gotcha! Thanks, I'm going to give it a whirl with the T2 pan and if that doesn't work fab up a custom pan.

If you use the RX8 front cover you can use the stock rx8 oil pan without any modifications. Only the front cover bolt pattern and shape changes-the rest of the engine is the same.

Yeah don't really feel like swapping covers. I'l look into clearance issue when it comes up.

I need help i have the 13b re swap already on my car but i still have problems with the fuel how i can put on the car a really good fuel pump on it ?

Hey Jayson, I saw your car on youtube a while ago. It depends on what you plan on doing and have done already. Did you setup up the system with a return line?

Now my real problem is that the damn lower intake doesn't clear the firewall. I cut it about 2,5inches and bumped the right hand side firewall with a mini sledgehammer. I got it on but there's no way the upper intake is going to bolt on so I have to think of something quick.
HELLO! NOW I HAVE THAT PROBLEM WITH THE LIM!~JUST CRASH INTO THE FIREWALL!
a solution?:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

What did you use for engine mount?
All I had to do to fit mine was grind the tab off the back of the LIM and some of the EGR crap I didn't want anyway.

I use kmr engine mounts. kyle mohan racing ..I buy in eBay that engine mounts

REW or RE?

https://db.tt/jBYRdzr8 here some pics


no Cosmo engine
my engine 1994 twin turbo engine

Options are...
Section LIM and re-weld shorter
Cut and rebox firewall...not muchvroom behind though...heater core and AC evap back there
Rework motor mounts..