I want one.. no luck!
#1
I want one.. no luck!
I tied to buy an RX8 last weekend with no luck. I don't haggle well enough. Guy first came back with "mid teens" for my apr. I laughed and said no way. then he came back with 10.9 % or 9% with like $4k down. I've never put more than $1k down on a car and never have I paid more than 8%.
MSRP is $28.8 and he proceeded to tell me the price of the car was $33k. I told him what the sticker said and he said something about dealer add ins. When we talked about taking my trade-in out of the deal, he told me he'd give it to me for MSRP. Gee... the add ins are no longer? I told him I wanted it for invice, his reply was "No way am I selling at RX8 for invice" and so I said "Have a nice day" and hung up.
I'm very depressed. I love this car. The only thing I didnt like about the one I drove was that it was cloth and manual seats. But I drove one with the Grand Touring package...the beautiful blue...but $34k was out of my price range. Well, at those nasty high percentages anyway.
I want one bad! I owe $3k on my car and they were going to give me $5k. I could easily sell it on my own for at least $6k but then I worry that I'm going to get this same high percentage crapola and get stuck without a car for too long. Now with all the credit checks, I'm sure my credit is shot all over again.
WAAA!!!!!!
MSRP is $28.8 and he proceeded to tell me the price of the car was $33k. I told him what the sticker said and he said something about dealer add ins. When we talked about taking my trade-in out of the deal, he told me he'd give it to me for MSRP. Gee... the add ins are no longer? I told him I wanted it for invice, his reply was "No way am I selling at RX8 for invice" and so I said "Have a nice day" and hung up.
I'm very depressed. I love this car. The only thing I didnt like about the one I drove was that it was cloth and manual seats. But I drove one with the Grand Touring package...the beautiful blue...but $34k was out of my price range. Well, at those nasty high percentages anyway.
I want one bad! I owe $3k on my car and they were going to give me $5k. I could easily sell it on my own for at least $6k but then I worry that I'm going to get this same high percentage crapola and get stuck without a car for too long. Now with all the credit checks, I'm sure my credit is shot all over again.
WAAA!!!!!!
#2
Registered
back when i got mine in september 03 everybody was paying sticker. now you should have no trouble getting it for invoice or a little above. try another dealer.
#3
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
MeToo,
I know it's a bit late now but NEVER let a dealership run your credit until you've decided on a price for the vehicle.
Also, I usually don't mention a trade-in until the end either.
Make sure you find the price you want, then go from there.
"all the credit checks"?? How many times have you had your credit pulled recently?
I know it's a bit late now but NEVER let a dealership run your credit until you've decided on a price for the vehicle.
Also, I usually don't mention a trade-in until the end either.
Make sure you find the price you want, then go from there.
"all the credit checks"?? How many times have you had your credit pulled recently?
#5
脾臓が痛みました
Join Date: Mar 2005
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i find that dealers are more likely to more accepting to haggleing when you are there in person. and also, try getting an auto loan through a bank, or better still a credit union. also, what term length is a factor in what rate you get. typically, lower the term, lower the interest rate.
i got my loan through my credit union and i got a 5.76% rate (lowest for the term i selected), but if your credit is lower, then obviously the rate increases from the term minimum.
typically a 50% difference between invoice and msrp is a good place to aim for, and this will go up or down depending on how well the cars are moving in your market. get to the price you want, then factor in the incentives you can get, and finally your trade in, if any.
another good thing about going through a bank or credit union, is you can get pre-approved for upto a certain amount. that way, you can go and get the car, and if you don't work out a trade-in you like, then take it home with you also and sell it on your own, and put that money into the loan payments.
and if the dealer still doesn't want to play, don't be afraid to shop around other dealers. also, use tools like the Mazda website (you can search for matching vehicles after you build one), autotrader, edmunds, vehix, etc. to search for new/used cars in your area and surrounding areas.
good luck on your search.
i got my loan through my credit union and i got a 5.76% rate (lowest for the term i selected), but if your credit is lower, then obviously the rate increases from the term minimum.
typically a 50% difference between invoice and msrp is a good place to aim for, and this will go up or down depending on how well the cars are moving in your market. get to the price you want, then factor in the incentives you can get, and finally your trade in, if any.
another good thing about going through a bank or credit union, is you can get pre-approved for upto a certain amount. that way, you can go and get the car, and if you don't work out a trade-in you like, then take it home with you also and sell it on your own, and put that money into the loan payments.
and if the dealer still doesn't want to play, don't be afraid to shop around other dealers. also, use tools like the Mazda website (you can search for matching vehicles after you build one), autotrader, edmunds, vehix, etc. to search for new/used cars in your area and surrounding areas.
good luck on your search.
#7
I tried to get preapproved with my credit union an online. That's what I mean by all the credit checks.
Shopping around is tough. There are 2 dealers where I live and next one is 50 miles away. The two here in town .. one was very uppity.... too snooty and trying to take me for a ride...the other wouldn't give it to me for below msrp...
*sigh*
Shopping around is tough. There are 2 dealers where I live and next one is 50 miles away. The two here in town .. one was very uppity.... too snooty and trying to take me for a ride...the other wouldn't give it to me for below msrp...
*sigh*
#10
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MeToo,
new car - deal 1
loan - deal 2
trade in - deal 3
start with thet new car - get the price you want (be reasonable though) then go to the loan. if they won't give you the price you want go elsewhere.
move on to the loan - get the rate you want (be reasonable again). if they won't give it too you you've already got a quote on the car, so go elsewhere for the loan. OR... even better get a loan BEFORE you get the dealership, so they can compete with your preapproved loan (much more entertaining)
move on to the trade in - get the price you want (again be reasonable) if you don't get what you want go elsewhere.
the point is each step is a different transaction. you should never talk about trade in (including telling them if there is one) or loan before a car price is settled. don't be affraid to walk they need you more than you need them.
i bought my 05 shinka online. i used mazda's website contacted about twelve dealers and the one with the lowest price i went to ($100 over invoice). verified the invoice before i went, got preapproved for a loan (which they couldn't beat), and didn't have a trade in. remember deal with dealers at YOUR convienience i.e. get a quote over the phone (faxed to you), or internet (emailed to you). buying a car is a much better process that way.
new car - deal 1
loan - deal 2
trade in - deal 3
start with thet new car - get the price you want (be reasonable though) then go to the loan. if they won't give you the price you want go elsewhere.
move on to the loan - get the rate you want (be reasonable again). if they won't give it too you you've already got a quote on the car, so go elsewhere for the loan. OR... even better get a loan BEFORE you get the dealership, so they can compete with your preapproved loan (much more entertaining)
move on to the trade in - get the price you want (again be reasonable) if you don't get what you want go elsewhere.
the point is each step is a different transaction. you should never talk about trade in (including telling them if there is one) or loan before a car price is settled. don't be affraid to walk they need you more than you need them.
i bought my 05 shinka online. i used mazda's website contacted about twelve dealers and the one with the lowest price i went to ($100 over invoice). verified the invoice before i went, got preapproved for a loan (which they couldn't beat), and didn't have a trade in. remember deal with dealers at YOUR convienience i.e. get a quote over the phone (faxed to you), or internet (emailed to you). buying a car is a much better process that way.
#11
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try this.
make sure you get approved for what you are willing to spend on the car.
2 days before the end of the month, make up a fax, stating that you are ready to buy "x" car, with "y" features.
make a cover page up for each dealer within your comfort zone, ie how far are you willing to travel to purchase the car. make the fax to the sales manager, and state that you are also sending this same fax to all the other dealers within your comfort zone, and say you wish to be contacted with the best price they can offer for what you are looking for. make sure you leave your contact information.
when they start calling (cause they will, a dealership wants your business for one, 2 it'll be crunch time for the dealership because they are very near the end of the month and want to make sure that they make their sales quota's, and they dont want to see you buy from anyone else) make sure you keep notes of who you talk to at what dealership at what time and numbers that they can be reached back at, then once you have a good selection of prices, call back to each of the dealers and say that so and so dealership offered you this price, etc.
a buddy of mine did this a few years ago when wrx's were selling for msrp, and he got what he wanted at near invoice. he made the terms and made the dealerships work for him, that way you dont have to travel to all the dealerships. dont stress, you'll get yours.
may the zoom be with you
make sure you get approved for what you are willing to spend on the car.
2 days before the end of the month, make up a fax, stating that you are ready to buy "x" car, with "y" features.
make a cover page up for each dealer within your comfort zone, ie how far are you willing to travel to purchase the car. make the fax to the sales manager, and state that you are also sending this same fax to all the other dealers within your comfort zone, and say you wish to be contacted with the best price they can offer for what you are looking for. make sure you leave your contact information.
when they start calling (cause they will, a dealership wants your business for one, 2 it'll be crunch time for the dealership because they are very near the end of the month and want to make sure that they make their sales quota's, and they dont want to see you buy from anyone else) make sure you keep notes of who you talk to at what dealership at what time and numbers that they can be reached back at, then once you have a good selection of prices, call back to each of the dealers and say that so and so dealership offered you this price, etc.
a buddy of mine did this a few years ago when wrx's were selling for msrp, and he got what he wanted at near invoice. he made the terms and made the dealerships work for him, that way you dont have to travel to all the dealerships. dont stress, you'll get yours.
may the zoom be with you
#12
My purchase was very similar to Dewitt's.
!. Called/emailed dealerships in the area, looking for the best deal they were willing to offer. The dealership I went to offered $4k off sticker, regardless of which 8 I chose.
2. Dealership located the 8 I wanted and I bought for roughly $60 over invoice. (Had 4 mi, built in Apr 04 and sat on lot until I drove away in Oct 04, another incentive to sell b/c dealership was now paying to keep it.)
3. I did research and knew what my trade in was worth. Sold it to carmax b/c dealer low-balled me big time. Used money as down payment.
4. Already had a pre-approved loan. Dealer matched it so they did all the paperwork for me.
5. I'm a happy camper. :D
Good luck! Things always work out in the end!
!. Called/emailed dealerships in the area, looking for the best deal they were willing to offer. The dealership I went to offered $4k off sticker, regardless of which 8 I chose.
2. Dealership located the 8 I wanted and I bought for roughly $60 over invoice. (Had 4 mi, built in Apr 04 and sat on lot until I drove away in Oct 04, another incentive to sell b/c dealership was now paying to keep it.)
3. I did research and knew what my trade in was worth. Sold it to carmax b/c dealer low-balled me big time. Used money as down payment.
4. Already had a pre-approved loan. Dealer matched it so they did all the paperwork for me.
5. I'm a happy camper. :D
Good luck! Things always work out in the end!
#13
If you have a costco near you you can look into the costco price for a local dealer, what's what I did last year and I got it for 500 under invoice. Someone else mentioned a firefighters financing or something like that and they have great deals. I'll have to look it up.
#15
DON'T go to a dealer. That's what i did. I got mine Jan. 1st, 2004 (basically when the car first came out), and although MSRP was $29.8 or seomothing liek that, my dad paid $27.7 for it. Pretty good deal. It was one of those dealerships that have like 5 dealerships in one.
I think they get it for so cheap b/c they avoid the dealer fees b/c i basically got it STRAIGHT from the unload dock.
Try that. If you're in NY, i can get you to my dealer and prolly save you $3k now.
i got it for basically 2k below invoice when MARK-UP was 1.5k.
I think they get it for so cheap b/c they avoid the dealer fees b/c i basically got it STRAIGHT from the unload dock.
Try that. If you're in NY, i can get you to my dealer and prolly save you $3k now.
i got it for basically 2k below invoice when MARK-UP was 1.5k.
#16
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
Costco partners with the certain dealerships to offer better prices to its Members.
It's always a set price: Invoice + $x.xx
You then throw in the GREAT RX8 rebates and there's your final price. EASY.
It's good for people who aren't good at the haggling involved in purchasing a new car.
It's always a set price: Invoice + $x.xx
You then throw in the GREAT RX8 rebates and there's your final price. EASY.
It's good for people who aren't good at the haggling involved in purchasing a new car.
#18
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
That's AWESOME!!
Welcome to the club!
We want pics, we want details.
Congratulations
Welcome to the club!
We want pics, we want details.
Congratulations
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