V8 Roadsters LS3 RX8 Build
07-14-2015, 11:29 PM
#78
Lol, they might have. I just tried to go to their website and it wasn't there.
I ordered it back in May and I've been emailing them back and forth since then and they've been responsive to my questions.
Maybe they are making them on a one-off basis now, or maybe I got the last one.
Let's hope I don't have any problems with it.
I ordered it back in May and I've been emailing them back and forth since then and they've been responsive to my questions.
Maybe they are making them on a one-off basis now, or maybe I got the last one.
Let's hope I don't have any problems with it.
08-15-2015, 11:15 AM
#79
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Holy crap, i cant believe how long it has been since I've signed in and lurked around, but anywho -
I was reading around the forum and stumbled across a thread regarding a, "CANBus Triple", is that a product that could be used in place of the canbus you are using currently?
Thanks for sharing your build, by the way! It is a pleasure to see the progress.
I was reading around the forum and stumbled across a thread regarding a, "CANBus Triple", is that a product that could be used in place of the canbus you are using currently?
Thanks for sharing your build, by the way! It is a pleasure to see the progress.
08-15-2015, 02:59 PM
#80
I'm not familiar with CanBus triple. It looks like it's more of a node that will interface with an existing network for logging and running scripts.
I'm having issues with the unit I'm running now. RPM and ABS/DSC aren't working right.
Canbus Auto is officially out of business now, so support is a little slow now.
There are several other guys that are working on CANBus solutions, but I haven't heard any updates lately.
I'm having issues with the unit I'm running now. RPM and ABS/DSC aren't working right.
Canbus Auto is officially out of business now, so support is a little slow now.
There are several other guys that are working on CANBus solutions, but I haven't heard any updates lately.
08-15-2015, 04:48 PM
#81
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Ah hell, sorry to hear that about your unit.
I suppose my post shows the lack of knowledge I have about this type of device. I am going to comb this forum and other forums to become more familiar with this device and see what members here have discussed.
Say, if it is not too much trouble, would you be so kind as to share Canbus Auto's contact info? I would like to contact and see why Canbus Auto called it quits. I am a business and marketing consultant - businesses, that quit or stop offering service(s), can potentially provide valuable information for me.
Either way, Stubbs, I wish you luck on your build. I'll be keeping an eye on your thread for curiousity's sake.
I suppose my post shows the lack of knowledge I have about this type of device. I am going to comb this forum and other forums to become more familiar with this device and see what members here have discussed.
Say, if it is not too much trouble, would you be so kind as to share Canbus Auto's contact info? I would like to contact and see why Canbus Auto called it quits. I am a business and marketing consultant - businesses, that quit or stop offering service(s), can potentially provide valuable information for me.
Either way, Stubbs, I wish you luck on your build. I'll be keeping an eye on your thread for curiousity's sake.
10-08-2015, 08:11 PM
#82
Just a little update. I've been working through lots of little things now.
The Sway bar is about sorted out. I'm using a hollow 28mm bar from V8R. This required some creative solutions to make it work right though. My major issue was that the CTS-V AC bracket mounts the ac belt tensioner low, and a straight sway bar would have to be lowered 1-2 inches to clear it. The solution actually came from GM themselves, the LSA engine from the 09+ uses the same AC setup, but it eliminates the tensioner and instead uses a stretch to fit belt. This allows me to use an off the shelf bar from V8R. I had to use a set of racing beat rear end links to fit.
Fully Compressed
Full Droop
I ended up switching to a Non-DSC ABS unit since it'll work without needing the RX8 ECU.
It's easier to fit too since it's about 30% smaller than a DSC ABS module. The wiring is pretty simple, it's just matching colors and adding an extra 12 gauge power wire. I also switched to a later Non-DSC ABS Master Cylinder for two reasons. First, it uses M10 fittings instead of M12, and second the fittings come out the side which gives me more room to run lines.
Lots of odds and ends to button up still, but the big things are AC lines, tire rods/steering, and Exhaust. Going to order wheels and tires soon.
The Sway bar is about sorted out. I'm using a hollow 28mm bar from V8R. This required some creative solutions to make it work right though. My major issue was that the CTS-V AC bracket mounts the ac belt tensioner low, and a straight sway bar would have to be lowered 1-2 inches to clear it. The solution actually came from GM themselves, the LSA engine from the 09+ uses the same AC setup, but it eliminates the tensioner and instead uses a stretch to fit belt. This allows me to use an off the shelf bar from V8R. I had to use a set of racing beat rear end links to fit.
Fully Compressed
Full Droop
I ended up switching to a Non-DSC ABS unit since it'll work without needing the RX8 ECU.
It's easier to fit too since it's about 30% smaller than a DSC ABS module. The wiring is pretty simple, it's just matching colors and adding an extra 12 gauge power wire. I also switched to a later Non-DSC ABS Master Cylinder for two reasons. First, it uses M10 fittings instead of M12, and second the fittings come out the side which gives me more room to run lines.
Lots of odds and ends to button up still, but the big things are AC lines, tire rods/steering, and Exhaust. Going to order wheels and tires soon.
10-19-2015, 11:28 AM
#84
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So it seems there are several parts needed to effect this swap (DSC-ABS to ABS only).
1) The mounting bracket
2) The ABS pump pig tail
3) The ABS to master cylinder hard lines
4) The ABS pump
1) The mounting bracket
2) The ABS pump pig tail
3) The ABS to master cylinder hard lines
4) The ABS pump
10-19-2015, 08:44 PM
#85
I was fortunate that the unit I bought had the pigtail, and bracket. You could do it without the bracket, but you're sunk without the pigtail. You can try junkyards for the pigtail, but most of the time they don't want to sell just the ABS pigtail and you've got to buy the entire harness which is expensive. Some other options for the pigtail are mazda 6 and mazda mpv they use the same connector but the module has a different part number. You'll have to double check the pins to make sure they are in the right spot.
You'll need to cut and re-flare your lines since the non-DSC unit uses inverted flares and the DSC lines have bubble flares. Also the lines from the MC to the ABS are 6mm on the DSC and 4.75MM on the Non-DSC so you'll need to swap to a non-DSC MC or use a 6mm to 4mm adapter for your lines.
You'll need to cut and re-flare your lines since the non-DSC unit uses inverted flares and the DSC lines have bubble flares. Also the lines from the MC to the ABS are 6mm on the DSC and 4.75MM on the Non-DSC so you'll need to swap to a non-DSC MC or use a 6mm to 4mm adapter for your lines.
10-22-2015, 08:07 AM
#86
Pistons Please
I was fortunate that the unit I bought had the pigtail, and bracket. You could do it without the bracket, but you're sunk without the pigtail. You can try junkyards for the pigtail, but most of the time they don't want to sell just the ABS pigtail and you've got to buy the entire harness which is expensive. Some other options for the pigtail are mazda 6 and mazda mpv they use the same connector but the module has a different part number. You'll have to double check the pins to make sure they are in the right spot.
You'll need to cut and re-flare your lines since the non-DSC unit uses inverted flares and the DSC lines have bubble flares. Also the lines from the MC to the ABS are 6mm on the DSC and 4.75MM on the Non-DSC so you'll need to swap to a non-DSC MC or use a 6mm to 4mm adapter for your lines.
You'll need to cut and re-flare your lines since the non-DSC unit uses inverted flares and the DSC lines have bubble flares. Also the lines from the MC to the ABS are 6mm on the DSC and 4.75MM on the Non-DSC so you'll need to swap to a non-DSC MC or use a 6mm to 4mm adapter for your lines.
I have the non DSC ABS unit in my parts car with everything, maybe worth replacing mine, just sucks the DSC unit is a little more visually pleasing lol
10-26-2015, 12:53 PM
#87
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As an FYI I too found all of the non DSC ABS unit parts at a local wrecking yard for $150. I was even able to score all of the hard lines etc. Really easy swap when you can just go to the junk yard with a 10mm and a 12mm wrench !! Thank again for the info.
Mark
Mark
12-15-2015, 07:41 AM
#90
Not too much to update on. I've been really busy with work, and I've got a newborn that's eating up most of the rest of my time.
I pulled the engine back out this weekend to get my brake lines run neatly. Once I've got that done I can put it back together and get the suspension and steering put back on. I've got to finalize some of the routing for the oil cooler and power steering hoses. I've also got to make a top support for my radiator. After that I'm gonna send it out to a shop to finish my AC and build an exhaust.
There really isn't a whole lot left to do, just lots of little odds and ends. I just need to find the time and motivation to do it.
I pulled the engine back out this weekend to get my brake lines run neatly. Once I've got that done I can put it back together and get the suspension and steering put back on. I've got to finalize some of the routing for the oil cooler and power steering hoses. I've also got to make a top support for my radiator. After that I'm gonna send it out to a shop to finish my AC and build an exhaust.
There really isn't a whole lot left to do, just lots of little odds and ends. I just need to find the time and motivation to do it.
12-21-2015, 01:27 PM
#92
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I wish I used the non DSC abs unit.
I went with a Wileood proportioning valve set up instead but I may switch to non DSC ABS. My jeep Im driving now for winter is non abs and can't stand when the brakes lock up. Not to mention, if I go BBK and have the extra stopping power I'm going to want ABS.
Awesome progress stubs.
I'm using a Racepak UDX since I dont have a CANBUS set up.
Hopefully I can figure out a way to tie it in with the MSD Atomic LS EFI
I went with a Wileood proportioning valve set up instead but I may switch to non DSC ABS. My jeep Im driving now for winter is non abs and can't stand when the brakes lock up. Not to mention, if I go BBK and have the extra stopping power I'm going to want ABS.
Awesome progress stubs.
I'm using a Racepak UDX since I dont have a CANBUS set up.
Hopefully I can figure out a way to tie it in with the MSD Atomic LS EFI
07-26-2016, 06:28 AM
#93
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I have been looking into this swap, I have a LS1 sitting on the floor ready to be built. My question is on the exhaust side. Is there room for descent size long tube headers? I haven't been able to find any info on the V8 roadsters site nor get an email response from them.
07-26-2016, 09:07 PM
#94
It's been a long time since my last update so this one covers quite a bit of time.
I had a local shop called PRT Performance build the exhaust for me. It came out really nice, and it's really quiet. I'm debating on doing a set of cutouts, cause sometimes you want it noisy.
The car inspected without any drama, the biggest issue were the set of old tires I had on the car that were on the edge.
I finally got to put some miles on the car and as I suspected I need to do some bug squashing. One of the bug squashes I've had to do concerns the shifter.
The V8R kit uses a GTO trans and does a pretty good job of getting the shifter located in the right spot. However the Mazda trans boot doesn't work well with the GTO bits. It has a bit of rubber that causes 4th and 6th gear to pop out when not under load.
I ended up cutting out the factory piece and replaced it with a sheet of rubber I pick up from a local hardware store. This gave me a great seal around the trans which helped reduce the amount of heat coming from around the shifter. Doing this cured my 4th and 6th problem, but I still had an issue with 2nd gear occasionally not completely engaging. This was caused by the shift lever extension I made hitting the trim ring on the gator. I just hit it with the dremel and the problem is gone.
And a bonus video of the way too quiet exhaust
AC is finished and it is absolutely wonderful in this Texas heat. I'm glad I went oversized on the condensor and fans because it cools much better than the stock AC now.
Finally got my wheels and tires done Forgestar F14 18x10 +42 Matte Bronze with 275/35/18 Dunlop DZ101
My final step in the build phase was getting the suspension finalized. The stock shocks were worn out and the car was bottoming out over bumps. I talked to my buddy over at Inertia Lab here in Dallas about options for coilovers. We discussed doing a fully custom set from AST, but it was likely gonna be a 2-3 month wait to get them. So I went with a set of Ohlins R&T. I'm blown away by the attention to detail on this kit. I set them up according to Ohlins recommendations and they sit at the perfect height and do an amazing job being comfortable on the street while keeping the car planted going through the back roads.
I also got a chance to weigh it in it's final trim
Weight with 3/4 tank of gas
Weight with me in it
Cross weight with me in it
It ended up being better balanced than I though it was going to be, 52.7F 47.3R
I could have ended up about 100lbs lighter if I skipped all the sound deadening I put it and didn't do such a heavy exhaust.
So that's pretty much the end of my build. I've been driving it to work pretty regularly, and it's been a lot of fun. It's a lot more fun when you get it outside the confines of the city and into some of the rare twisty backroads around Dallas. There were a ton of challenges on the way, there were more than a few times I wondered if I bit off more than I could chew. I definitely expanded my mechanical skill set with this project. There may be a few more bug squashes I'll have to do before I'm truly done, but for now this is it.
I had a local shop called PRT Performance build the exhaust for me. It came out really nice, and it's really quiet. I'm debating on doing a set of cutouts, cause sometimes you want it noisy.
The car inspected without any drama, the biggest issue were the set of old tires I had on the car that were on the edge.
I finally got to put some miles on the car and as I suspected I need to do some bug squashing. One of the bug squashes I've had to do concerns the shifter.
The V8R kit uses a GTO trans and does a pretty good job of getting the shifter located in the right spot. However the Mazda trans boot doesn't work well with the GTO bits. It has a bit of rubber that causes 4th and 6th gear to pop out when not under load.
I ended up cutting out the factory piece and replaced it with a sheet of rubber I pick up from a local hardware store. This gave me a great seal around the trans which helped reduce the amount of heat coming from around the shifter. Doing this cured my 4th and 6th problem, but I still had an issue with 2nd gear occasionally not completely engaging. This was caused by the shift lever extension I made hitting the trim ring on the gator. I just hit it with the dremel and the problem is gone.
And a bonus video of the way too quiet exhaust
AC is finished and it is absolutely wonderful in this Texas heat. I'm glad I went oversized on the condensor and fans because it cools much better than the stock AC now.
Finally got my wheels and tires done Forgestar F14 18x10 +42 Matte Bronze with 275/35/18 Dunlop DZ101
My final step in the build phase was getting the suspension finalized. The stock shocks were worn out and the car was bottoming out over bumps. I talked to my buddy over at Inertia Lab here in Dallas about options for coilovers. We discussed doing a fully custom set from AST, but it was likely gonna be a 2-3 month wait to get them. So I went with a set of Ohlins R&T. I'm blown away by the attention to detail on this kit. I set them up according to Ohlins recommendations and they sit at the perfect height and do an amazing job being comfortable on the street while keeping the car planted going through the back roads.
I also got a chance to weigh it in it's final trim
Weight with 3/4 tank of gas
Weight with me in it
Cross weight with me in it
It ended up being better balanced than I though it was going to be, 52.7F 47.3R
I could have ended up about 100lbs lighter if I skipped all the sound deadening I put it and didn't do such a heavy exhaust.
So that's pretty much the end of my build. I've been driving it to work pretty regularly, and it's been a lot of fun. It's a lot more fun when you get it outside the confines of the city and into some of the rare twisty backroads around Dallas. There were a ton of challenges on the way, there were more than a few times I wondered if I bit off more than I could chew. I definitely expanded my mechanical skill set with this project. There may be a few more bug squashes I'll have to do before I'm truly done, but for now this is it.
Last edited by Stubbs; 07-26-2016 at 09:11 PM.
07-26-2016, 10:58 PM
#95
beautiful. Would love to see more video. Good job.
07-27-2016, 09:55 AM
#97
And a bonus video of the way too quiet exhaust
Great job man. I owe you a beer if I ever see you cause I totally copied some of the work you did pioneering this V8R swap. Glad to see this get done
07-27-2016, 11:10 AM
#99
I wasn't able to find a set of off the shelf long tube headers that fit. I tried the Hinson, some fbody headers off ebay, borla trailblazer ss and borla cts-v. The cts-v were the closest fit, but they would need to be modified to fit. The steering shaft is in the way of the #3 primary. The Hooker Blackheart mid length headers look like they might fit, but I never tried them. I'm going to have a custom set of 1 7/8 made later this year.
