LFXs are expensive.

Even from the junkyard? I know they're fairly new but at least as a crate motor they're less than an LS. I know it'd be more expensive than any of the V6 builds on here but I'm just thinking ahead, hopefully when prices come down a bit and donors go up.

LFX are pretty new engines, an older 3.6 would probably be easier to find for a decent price, Maybe get lucky on a part-out somewhere.

But for me the boost and tuning abilities of the 3800 make it easier for me to do myself.
I haven't looked into the internals of any of their "high feature" v6 engines, but they do run a pretty high compression ratio. And the integrated exhaust manifold of the LFX raises concerns with turbos. I wonder how those engines handle egt's

Tuning the 3800 uses free open source software and a $260 interface. I'm fairly certain the LFX ecu's need something more sophisticated and expensive, Like HPTuners which requires you buy credits to unlock an ECU.

And since 3800's are so plentiful if I blow mine, I'm sure I can find another one laying around somewhere for under $500.

All in all it looks like a great engine, It's just expensive to purchase and run. And I plan to beat the crap out of this car. The 3800 is pretty small and a little heavier but pretty stout when tuned properly.

Now that makes a lot more sense than just being expensive. I know there's at least one cadillac model LFX that uses twin turbos so I guess it's possible in some way.

I'm just trying to evaluate all the possibilities where cost isn't necessarily a major factor but still a minor one. For your circumstances the 3800 is the sensible option. For mine so far, the LS makes a good case for itself.

Ah that's right! I do recall reading something about a turbo Caddy with that 3.6 V6. I just never really looked into.
I stayed away from an LS because they're just over done in my opinion. Every drift event I go to has at least 3 or 4 LS swapped cars. I'm not debating their capabilities or anything, but I want to be different and have a somewhat out of the box build.
Kicker's build is pretty out of the box, but he has very different goals than I do, IE keeping everything working and making it all pretty.

Since I want a stripped out racer I think a cheap and plentiful V6 like the 3800 was a good choice, considering that I likely will damage the engine in one way or another, And since the 3800 isn't as saught after as an LS they stay cheap and easy to find.
My only real competition with the engine is those Fiero guys and their 3800 swaps haha
For a V6 the weight is a bit on the heavier end, pretty comparable to an LS, but with enough boost I'm sure I can make up for it... heh

Said no swapped RX8 owner ever.

Hey,

Just wondering any updates on this build?
Post some pics :-)

Cheers,

No real progress yet. I've been focusing all my time to making the money to pay off my largest debt. Which is almost done. Hopefully by the end of this month I can begin getting the rest of the parts and work towards getting this baby running this year.

I did hold up the camaro exhaust manifolds to the heads and found I can flip them to point em forward to route for the turbo, but they come up and sit next to the valve covers which is also where the frame rails sit on the 8.

At least the rear manifold on the FWD version has a flange with welded on runners, so I can chop those off and use the flanges to make my own manifolds.

Ha! I use to be one of those fiero guys! If I kept it long enough, I would of definitely swapped in that 3800 sc. I was drifting in that car before it was a sport (that's how old I am.) might have something to do with all that "dukes of hazards" I watched growing up. (Again, my age)
Good luck with your build, I'm looking forward to its completion.

Tore out some more panels, including the dash. Tossed all the junk into the bed of the S10 I just did a trans replacement on. Runs great for a '94 beater

I plan to pull the hvac and see how I can fashion my own dash. I'm still on the fence on rather or not I want to use whats left of the factory dash and mount a panel to it. But I think a custom dash would add to the fun factor of the build.


Next up I gotta get a new steering and set that in place so I can get to mounting the engine and see just how much of a pain that steering shaft will be.

After failing to properly modify my sub frame, in part due to rust, and mostly due to my inexperience and such, I decided to buy a new front sub frame.
New sub frame came from Tennessee with far far less rust. They even included all the bolts that mine didn't want to give up.
I still couldn't get the drivers side control arm off.

You can clearly see the difference between Chicago area vehicles and Anything south of Illinois haha.


I will cut the factory steering rack mounts off again and likely get someone to step in with drilling and welding so I don't screw this one up. More welding practice for me on scrap!

I also got my clutch and PP and am working at getting the flywheel balanced and driveshaft shortened.

Got the brackets on the frame cut off and ground away. Hit it with some flat black just to stop any rust before I can move on.


I got some assistance from kicker on drilling the mounts for the rack this time. Still in the processes of welding that up and getting it all settled.

Flywheel, Clutch and PP have arrived and have been used to get the Slave cylinder spacer figured out.
Thanks again to Kicker for getting that one machined for me.

Clutch is a "Stage 3" 6 puck sprung copper ceramic with a PP capable of holding 375 ft-lbs, so the seller says.


Here's part of the Dakota bell housing, with the solstice trans and the Colorado slave cylinder and of course that pretty spacer.


I also have the Wilwood 3/4" bore master cylinder which pairs perfect with the slave and stage 3 clutch.

And I have the Wilwood proportioning block so I can delete the ABS and get my braking system situated.

Boy what a difference 15 minutes and an experienced teacher do to my welding skills. haha
Just some test weld of tubes into exhaust pipe adapters to get ready for welding the frame.


Thanks again to Kicker for the welding tips and helping me get the steering rack situated. It's nice having someone there to confirm my thoughts or tell me how wrong I am haha.

Anyways we got the tubes mounted and welded along with the stop washers for the rack.
Just gonna box in the front side of the tubes with some pipe sections to make it a little cleaner looking and help give it a little more strength, though I doubt it's really needed.

Nice progress so far. Mag I ask how much that prop valve cost you? I need one as well for my 350/5 speed swap. I haven't looked yet cause I'm stI'll sourcing a good engine.

$75 for the Wilwood valve off eBay. There's other valves that are adjustable and cheaper available, and also no adjustable ones.

Once again with kickers help, and most of his welding....
I got the washers backed and encased with some exhaust tubing.

For the top I made cardboard templates using the tube from a paper towel roll, then shaped everything on a bench grinder for as close a fit as I can get.

I almost went with getting these welds tigged so it would be all nice and pretty looking. But at this point I just want to get it going and get it done. This car has no room for pretty stuffs haha.



Once the primer has a good chance to dry I'll get some black paint on it and get it up back in the car so I can get the tie rods and steering shaft sorted out.

Don't blame all those goobers on me! :P

Nah that must be some instability in my power line

Got the subframe painted up with some gloss enamel. Lets see how that lasts...


Kicker made a sweet adapter plate to fit the wilwood clutch master in the car, moved over the studs from the stock master, and added studs for the wilwood.



And here it is all bolted up together to test fit it.



While out the pedal was reinforced with some washer welded in as it was already cracking pretty badly.

Got that installed in the car and fits perfect.


Next I was trying to decide where to fit the wilwood balance block
I think I may tuck it between the brake and clutch master, but forward so it's closer to the strut tower. Then I can make a bracket, keep it away from hot surfaces and make it easily accessible.

That subframe looks great.

Nice job guy, You probably could've gone with an NC subframe and steering rack,

that's what i'm doing for my swap

There's quite a few things different about the Miata's sub vs. the 8. It may or may not bolt in the car (I hear it does) but the suspension is different. They are not directly interchangeable.

I could also just swap in the Miata engine and call it a day.
But this is more fun :mdrmed:

The Mustang rack looks like it'll net me some quicker steering than a miata rack. And the modifications to the frame weren't terrible heh

Not sure where you heard this info, I have an NC subframe in my 8 with 8 arms attached to it and everything Bolts in, the NC rack also fits perfectly Even all the little Brackets for the Abs lines and brake line bolt on to the NC subframe the same way as it did with the 8 Subframe.

Prescription8 I'm Sure there are alot more mustang ratios available than Miata So that would make sense esp if you want a faster ratio.

Not putting in a Miata 2.0 in my car, 2.3 disi :)

Not to thread jack, just in case there is any doubt lol
Attachment 217743
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miata parts
 

I actually have an nc subframe/steering rack in my car with the 8 arms and knuckles, it does work not sure where you got your info from kicker,

Priscription8 a faster rack would make it worth it for sure, not using a miata engine in my car but a mazdaspeed3 so far its been pretty much bolt in