LS6 swap parts list and how to paperwork
 

I want to start this off right….. I’m only posting to TRY to help someone out with this same build. If I did something you don’t like I’m sorry this is me and you are you and this worked for me. Like I said I’m only trying to help this is how I did it, take what you want and leave the rest.

I was so tired of everyone wanting to buy the Hinson parts because everyone said they were the only ones who could make it work. It made me sick they said you had to run custom headers, custom radiator blab la bla……. Please follow along I will list all the part # and the places I was able to get parts that off the shelf and much cheaper!! By no means was this a hard build but it did have some challenges along the way just as any project does.
I will explain in as much detail as I can, sorry if it too much but want to help as much as I can here!
First I started with a 04 Mazda RX8 with the motor blown (saves some money on the front side). Just pull the motor out labeling all wires that you unplug so you know what goes where for you will reuse a few of them. Be sure to take care of the oil pressure sensor as well as the temp sensor.
I have a lift and it was easier for me to push it out the bottom. You might want to come out the top either way is fine just get it out. J
The first thing you’ll need to do is remove the bracket that goes from drives side to passenger side.
Now to do the same thing with the ABS bracket! The heads will hit this bracket if this is not removed.
If you would like a Word Doc that has better pics and a better way to follow along please email me MMANGIN816@yahoo.com and I’ll send it to you. I took pics throughout the whole build to make it easier for the next person.

More to come tomorrow night or later tonight!

:shocking:

I hope this is what i think it is !!!!

One thing I did was cut and bend the lip down all the way around on both sides. I only did this so I can remove my headers after the motor was installed and to give a little extra clearance. I’m running ARP studs for my headers…… Bolts would be easier but I don’t trust them to pull equally. See Pic’s!!
While you’re cutting you might want to make a few extra cut further up by the front core support if you want to run the same radiator as I’m running. 16"x26" Chevy Style All Aluminum Race Radiator is what I used and worked out good.More pic’s later of how it’s mounted
The motor mounts just worked out like this way due to the motor mount plate and everything else in the way.
While you have room to work in the engine bay I would upgrade the clutch master cylinder. I used the Tilton 7/8 bore. I had to enlarge the hole a little bit to make this fit but it only needed a little. Everything inside that connects to the clutch pedal will work with the tilton without modifying anything. I just unscrewed the clevis end off the stock master cylinder and reinstalled it to the tilton. Bolt holes line up too! I used 3/8 grade 8 bolts on mine.

While the motor bay is open I would address the brakes if you’re going to do anything with the ABS system. I removed the ABS and installed the Wilwood part # 260-11179. I cut and removed the metric fittings and installed new 3/8-24 in. inverted flares. The rear was run as one line then I installed a tee to catch both lines (this valve is only a 3-out so you have to do something on the rear lines to use this part.) I got mine from Amazon.com for less!
Now that we have most of the things done in the engine bay it’s time to drop something in there!! I’m running and LS6 with 799 heads that’s been milled .030, Comp cam 571/573 lift with 281/283 Dur Part# 54-428-11, Ls7 lifters and trays, beehive Springs, 7.350 pushrods and ported LS6 oil pump.
Now a part that’s going to save you $$. I used a set of tight fit LS1 Headers part # 930-0114H from Speedway motors cost $275. These headers are ceramic coated you can go cheaper if needed but that’s your call. Ya, that’s some money but call Henson and drop $900 or more. I also order some exhaust wrap to cut down on the heat.

I order my exhaust tubing from speedway motor but I ordered it from eBay shipping was $7.99 and from Speedway motors.com it was almost $30. I’m not trying to be cheap but on a project like this you have to save everywhere you can. Plus I’ve already done the foot work for free if you want to use these same parts.
I started of my exhaust and cut one of the 180 degree bends in half and attached it to the headers.

More pic's

finally

Wait you said in first post Oil Temp sensor.
We have a Oil Temp sensor? No Really I'm asking.

he said temp sensor without designation, I'd assume water temp since there is no oil temp

Well alrighty then!

WOW!! Good work mdoffroad!!:biggthump


What a idea!
You actually posted up results first and not a bunch of googled Isuzu V6 BULLSHIT :icon_no2:

Sorry all I will fix that part. Oil pressure and Temp gauge.

Ok, I want to clear the air a bit on some IM’s and emails that’s came though today. The car is up and running everything works but the Power steering (HELP PLEASE!!!) Can anyone tell me what wire works the RPM’s? If yes, is it operated by volts or ohms and what levels? By what I see on the wiring paperwork the steering works of a module which gets the signal from the same sensor which reads RPM’s’….. Am I right or even close? I have the car scheduled the 28th of this month for Dyno testing and final tune (I will post results as soon as completed).
This is the first car I’ve ever built and not sure I have time right now to take on any other projects if you’re looking to have this done by someone. I will however help you anyway I can outside of doing it right now!

Now back to business!!

Before you go to far I would go ahead and get you a transmission brace/bracket into place to help support the transmission and reduce the risk of it falling. I ran this one knowing how I was going to run my exhaust already (have a plan before you build your bracket).

Here’s my exhaust built and ready to be welded. The car already had Cat back system on it so that’s where I tied into.

If you can have your driveline in and somewhat in place or as close as you can get it help insure proper clearance for everything (exhaust, Driveline and track bar).

When I had the driveline made I just took the RX8 one and told them the year the Trans came out of and length required and two days later it was done. It cost $365 for a whole new driveline parts and labor.

I started the sub-frame connectors at this time to insure I’ll have clearance. I used the front bolts on the frame supports that where already there to tie the front of the sub-frame in . The rear was tied in by welding two slugs= (DOM tubing drilled and taped) taped to ½ bolt thread then welded to ¼ 2” wide plates. I held the part up to the sub-frame marked where the slugs would hit, and then I drilled a hole in the sub-frame and pushed the slugs up into the hole. I then welded the ¼ plate in and started tying the tubes into the mounts. I would make my mounts first then work to tie the tubes into the mounts.

it appears you are not going to use a ppf?
Concerning the tach feed--contact Charlie at Mazcare and ask him--he recently delt with this when he started installing after market tachs for people. Tell Charlie I referred you.

Damn. I can't even harass someone that has pics of things done up before 6 months of conjecture. Good stuff.

I removed the stock ppf and built this one to take it's place. Thank you for the info, Ill call tomorrow and see if I can get anywhere.

Once you install a trans mount its no longer a PPF, but just a long, heavy diff nose support

Ok--I was thinking that it was needed to help support the diff. But i guess with the bigger u joints , trans mount,etc then the diff will be ok. The OP certainly seems to know what he is doing.

You have to support the diff nose, there is more than one way to skin the cat

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I hope we can get more info soon.
He is planning on using the oem steering?

Nice build.

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Any updates?

Now's that a build that can be appreciated!!! Good job! If you still need help on making the power steering and rpm gauge to work send me a pm.

So close, yet so far .....

Just an update, car is on the track without any issue other than manual steering..... Working on that right now and hope to have it going this weekend. I'll add picture this weekend of the cage and all the other little things.

Steering is finally working without any issue (yes, the stock eps system). There is no way I could have done it without dznutzuk..... This guy know his RX8's inside and out! I was at the point of changing the steering out, I actually had the MX5 rack in the shop and thank goodness dznutzuk came in and saved the day. This car is officially done!!

Thanks for all the help dznutzuk!!!!

Two thumbs up!!!

Glad it is on the track... cant wait for the pics and updates...


well done!

epic thread is epic.

This is great. Post some videos if you can!!!

What Was the issue with the steering?

I had a shorted wire in the wiring plug.

Here's some pic's of the cage...... All tubing is .120 DOM. The cage is fully removable due to always making changes I didn’t want it to be a solid weld-in. I’ll be honest the biggest reason I wanted the cage was not for roll over but a side impact. I was hit by a truck a few years ago and without the pillar I really think I would have been dancing a different tune today.

Ok, now that I have my car all done I would be willing to cut any brackets and mounts I have made for this build. I have a CNC plasma table so I can customize each bracket to your car. If you have the $$ and want the build done, I’ll be available in two weeks to start one……..Labor alone without cage $4,500 with cage $5,300 or you can just follow this thread and do it yourself and PM me with any questions along the way.

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Are you sure that "cage" is not going to fold in, seeing there is no main hoop ? Can you show pics of the mounting points you used for the cage. Not to shit on your work, but I wouldn't rely on that cage.

^^^ What he said.
The overall build is what a build should be: quick and functional with no waste of time.
That cage wouldn't pass the inspection on a soapbox racer, let alone a heavy car!

Whats with the spikes on the ends of the tube in the first pic?

The cage seems more focused on form over function

That was one of the worst cages I have seen in a long time, what was you thinking?

Let an pro cage builder redo all of it or just take it out and drive without anything.

Sorry but it had to be said.

No man--thats a show cage at best--sorry .
Great job on the transformation though--post a VID!!!!:)

Well finally I got someone to talk about something I did..... But not the way I wanted it to go down……

I do appreciate all you saying something so it can be fixed…… As I stated in the first section of this post……This is the first car I have EVER built! However, I can fix it and make it right. The cage ties to the sub-frame connectors and has a removable x-brace that goes behind the seats (I want to be able to use the rear seats too). I was not after a “rollcage” but something more for side impact due to no pillars.

I would appreciate you guys posting your cage work so I can get an idea of what I might want to do or post a link to your build so I can look there.

Here is the Sway bar mount I made to drop it down to clear the oil pan.

You actually "have" B pillars. They're built in the doors and are pretty freakin sturdy when the doors are closed.

Look into autopower rear cages to get an idea of what a half cage should look like. Your car is more dangerous with what you put inside than it was before!

^^^ Thanks for the direction!

Good deal man--we arent trying to bash you--you worked hard on this project and we respect that,,jut trying to help where we can.
The car is sweet and I WANT A VID MAN!!!:)
Pics please-- especially in how you kept the oem steering!

Don’t worry, I’m not taking it the wrong way and I truly appreciate the word of wisdom. I was scared it was about to be like a skipping record but I think everyone knows I will fix it and no need to drill in on me by now.
Here is a few pic’s of my steering set up. Long story short I just dropped it down 1.5”and made a bolt-on bracket. I cut mysteering shaft and welded a DOM tubing sleeve and plug welded it for safety.
I will remake make the bracket for anyone who need it too if that will help the DIY people out there??

I have the stock motor and everything with it I'm not going to ever use. I also have the 6-speed I'm not going to use. I was going to scrap this stuff but thought I would check with everyone and see if you might need any of it... Starter, alt, water pump, intake.....??? I'm really looking for someone who "needs" this stuff more than "wants" this stuff. Shipping is on your dime. First come first serve but please IM me to keep from adding post on here about it.

nice .. i'm thinking of doing the same thing but i wonder what the costs are including everything along with labor ..

Give me a week to add up the cost of all my parts and I will let you know a good ball park price.