Did you swap out these injectors for something smaller? 1000cc injectors should be good for like 800hp at 88% duty cycle.

Yes, I swapped them out for a couple reasons. #1, they were old school Bosch Style (w) Jetronic Plug type made by Marren, #2 They were not characterized by Adaptronic which meant shipping them over sea's and that just wasnt worth it, #3 I wanted to limit the power i made with a smaller injector so i could test the setup without breaking it instantly. ( If i had a huge injector and the tuner said "well you hit your your 400whp goal, and you have allot more on the table, what do you want me to do?" I don't have the self control not to tell him to "Fucking Send it !") So I went to a relatively up to date 600cc@3bar & 680cc@4bar USCAR style injector. So I kinda built 2 walls without knowing it. At 384whp the injectors were at 90% duty cycle running at 3bar. When he tried to up the base pressure, my aem stealth 340 wasn't able to maintain flow as pressure went up, so he cut me off. So after that tuning day, and a few days of driving I found out another little surprise. Our fuel tanks are garbage! I was having issues with fuel starvation (fuel being forced to the back of the tank and away from the pumps pickup at almost anything below 1/2 if you believe our shitty gauges), i decided to install a surge tank and a AEM 400lph 044 style pump that has a much higher flow rating at a higher pressure. So the fuel supply and starvation is fixed, but i dont go back to the tuner till November 8th.

Oh! 600cc makes way more sense. If you could get those up to 4 bar they should be good for a bit over 500 wheel hp.

Regarding the pump, Aeromotive (https://aeromotiveinc.com/tech-help/faqs/faq-340-stealth-fuel-pumps/) says that, properly plumbed, the 340 should support 700 crank hp. So if you're having fuel flow/pressure issues at 450 crank hp, I'd look at pickup, filter, main, and return lines. Are you running it returnless through the stock line or did you add a regulator and return line?

Tuner says that these SD680's flow less than advertised at both pressures. Say he has tuned several cars with them. Im running -6 supplys and 5/16 returns. So no it isn't returnless anymore. It all returns back through a radium venturi jet kit.

Cost breakdown?
 

How much did everything cost? Im planning to do something very similar but im paying someone to do it lol.

Well it cost me somewhere around 8k but I did most of everything myself aside from the radiator/intercooler and charge pipe fabrication. But right now I'm having driveline issues, the ppf is the root of all my issues. Ill update as soon as I have all the amswers.

I thought you did a pretty good job with what you had. Pretty sure there was a higher power guiding your hands. :)

What sort of driveline issue are you having?

Well I'm having a driveline vibration in 5th gear only above 75mph that wasn't present before it was swapped. I have tried 2 different Rx8 5MT's and 2 OEM drive shafts and 1 brand new steel shaft. And in the process it has ruined the tail shaft bushing in one of the 5MT's, dumped oil all over the highway, all kinds of smoke. I'm on my 4th attempt of going back together with it. I'm double checking all my angles again at present. Not sure if the angles are just not what the car wants or its un happy with the PPF being there or both.

The PPF may be too tight or too high up in the transmission tunnel. I had all sorts of vibration issues when I didn't leave enough "slack" in it. I loosened up the PPF bolts at the tranny, lowered the tranny down a bit and re-tightened. Just a thought.

I also had a high speed vibration one time that turned out to be a partially separated tire that eventually let go and almost killed me.... Maybe check wheel balance?

Also, I had a slightly warped clutch disc (put a bit too much pressure on it during install) that showed its head as a vibration around 3300 RPMs most prominently in gears 3, 4, and 5. New clutch disc fixed 90% of the vibration I had.... It wasn't until I put a straightedge on it that I realized it was slightly bent.

Just a few thoughts of things you may want to think about or check.....

Yeah the wheel balance has all ready been checked. Even went and got some hubcentric rings for them. The vibration isn't rpm dependent, strictly 5th gear above 75, the vibration lightens up when i let off the gas but it is still there.
I can do the same speed in 4th and the vibration isn't there, im thinking it has to be Load/Torque related. I have moved the transmission to where it favors the drivers side of the car like Cam at Petitt wanted me to do, even tried letting if favor the passenger side which neither
option worked. The only thing i have not tried is loosening everything and bringing the transmission down further. If someone here that has a 5mt in there rx8 that still has the rotary in it, I would really like to know what your yolk depth is on the transmission.
If my yolk depth is to far are out then that could be an issue.

Sounds like the drivetrain angle is off which will cause vibration issues... I would try loosing up the 4 bolts on the tranny side of the ppf, lower the transmission a little bit and re-tighten. Take it for a ride and see if the vibration is the same worse or better...

That's what I'm going to try tonight once my youngest goes to bed. Ill post my findings sometime saturday or sunday.

Well too high/low doesn’t really mean anything without any reference point. Ideally it should all be on the same exact centerline from the crankshaft, trans Input/output shaft, drive shaft, and through the pinion. The relationship to a different engine in a different RX8 is also possibly not relevant if your engine crank centerline is at a different height. So that measurement you inquired about might not apply to your situation.

I saw the motor mounts, but can’t recall what you did for the diff bushings? Since it’s entirely supported by those bushings on each end there’s a possible undamped resonance going on between them.

The other thing is the flywheel adapter kit from Poland. Did you just bolt that on or was it sent out for balancing with the reciprocating assembly? Could be a possibility if it wasn’t balanced/checked.

Diff bushings are whiteline's. And nope i didn't send the stuff from poland out to have the balance checked. And I don't really know what the HELL i did but it "may" be fixed. I ran it up to 90mph on jack stands and i didn't feel the vibration in 5th. The only thing i did different was machine new bell housing locating pins because the ones that PMC sent fit loose and were not near long enough. And once i got the trans installed, if fit the ppf loosely, pushed up on the trans by hand till it stopped going up, let it down about half way and tightened it back up. Trying to get it on all 4's now so i can go drive it and verify.

Not all the way gone. Now my tail shaft seal is leaking. FML.

So update on my drive-train issues. 1st off, I'm not one to call and complain to a company unless I have all ready exhausted all the options I thing I have in front of me. So lets start with what I have done up to this point trying to get the issue resolved. I have installed 2 used factory carbon fiber driveshafts, and purchased 1 brand new steel shaft. And had that shaft balance checked 2 times. I have spent countless hours under neath the car playing with the drive-line angles with no luck. I even purchased a Driveshaft Angle Finder from Dana/Spicer. I have purchased a total of 2 JDM 5 speed transmissions and neither one of them fixed the issue. I took it all back apart and took the flywheel to have its balance checked, it was spot on. So i contacted the only PMC Motorsport dealer in the US which is Drift HQ and talked to Alex. Alex went back and forth with PMC and they had me check everything, Pilot bearing, Input shaft to Bell housing depth, you name it i checked it. Found nothing wrong. So since the alignment pins that PMC supplied with the kit never really felt tight, i decided to go back and make some that properly fit on my lathe.So, instead of putting the 5 speed back into the car, i went and put my 6 speed that came with the car back into it because i know for a fact there was no issues with it. I put it all back together and it still has the vibration, clutch released, In 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th. The 5 speed was in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th. between the 2 transmission it is most dominate in 5th and 6th. 4th gear you don't feel anything because it is 1:1. Same thing happens if you have a bad input shaft bearing, which i don't have. So finally the the US Sales manage "Cezary finally gets in touch with me Via email. after about 2 emails he stated " Proper alignment is 90% caused by alignment pins, so I don't know what to tell you". I told him, "okay well its your adapter kit and your alignment pins so now what?" After sending 3 more emails he became a complete ghost, no reply's. As a last resort I started calling people that could maybe shed some light on my situation and or fix me problem. Only person that took time out of their day was Brett Collins from Collins Performance Technologies. We talked for about an hour, who pretty quickly stated that I have an alignment issue with the kit that PMC sold me, which at this point it wasn't very hard to believe considering all i have done and the $1800 spent trying to fix it. He told me he could make me another adapter, but since he only made one for Honda K series to Rx8 it would be a one off deal and cost around $1700 to complete. So at this point in the game i felt it wasn't worth investing another $1700 into a drive-train that technically i would almost certainly over power eventually anyway, so i told Brett im going to hold off. Well Brett to time out of his day to personally reach out to Cezary PMC on one of the 1jz/2jz swap pages on FB. And this was Cezary's response : "Hello Brett Collins, the customer contacted us over one year after the kits was purchased (Ordered October 2018) and after a few attempts to modify the kit.The correct way in case problems is to contact seller in the first few weeks, In this case the ebay seller. Then follow warranty steps". After this response I was tagged in the post, and here was my response : "Cezary, it is very un-realistic to think that someone who is buying a kit from you is going to have a car with an engine swap completed in your “few week time frame” unless they have insanely deep pockets and a ton off help. In my case it took me 9 MONTHS to get my car to where it would even drive ! And the kit was NEVER MODIFIED it is just how it was SHIPPED TO ME ! ! ! All I did was make new alignment pins, and even spent $1800 of my own money before even bothering you guys! Also Cezary, the ebay seller as it clearly reads on my Paypal statement is PMC_TUNING, so you sold the kit, proper channels of contact were followed. I received no reply".

I have since sent 2 separate emails to PMC directly to there office and bypassing Cezary to which I have gotten no replies back either. Whether or not I am wrong and or screwed because of the time that has elapsed since my purchase of the kit. PMC nor there US manager Cezary, has shown very little concern over my issues. Neither have any sense of accountability, they dont stand behind their products, the only thing they stand behind i believe at this point is their statue of limitations per the date of sale. So at this point I feel my only options is to start from ground 0 and swap the only thing left on the car that is still Mazda out. New Adapter, BMW Trans, Driveshaft, Ford 8.8 Rear diff Kit and be done with it. So my conclusion about the business practices of PMC MotorSports in short is this, They are not worth there salt and I would encourage anyone to not do business with them, if you have an issue, they just clearly wont raise a finger to lend any kind of support. END RANT ! ! !

I had the EXACT same thing. Different problem than driveline vibration, but same ghosting and left with a headache. Luckily, I was able to machine my own parts and get a usable kit. I have 12 miles on my kit. All on track drifting. No issues so far. But again, TERRIBLE business. Avoid at all cost!

Its a terribly aggravating situation, I stretched my options and ideas to the limit before I even bothered them at my own cost. It just seems they are out to move a product, but once it is purchased and gone that is were there dedication to said product ceases to exist. But aside from leaving reviews where I can there is nothing else left to do at this point aside from just sucking it up, moving on and starting over.

I frequently comment on their social media posts about my experiences with them, in Hope's someone sees my comments and avoids buying from them. Other than that, I've washed my hands with that "company"

Well I have been in regular contact with Brett Collins, and there may be a possibility of me working with them to make a complete kit. Of course the entire cost will fall on me mostly to get it to the table unless other people get involved in a group buy. I said earlier that i was just probably going to wash my hands of this entire drive-train setup, but after adding up the costs I'm really not in any position at this point to re-invent the wheel. So next week I'm supposed to be getting with on this matter again.

Something worth trying so you dont have to spend much money. This is what I did to help align the pressure plate to the flywheel. My alignment pins were also a loose fit. I got countersink bolts and hand tightened three of them at the 12 o clock, 4 o clock and 8 o'clock position. This helps center the pressure plate. Then I used normal pressure plate bolts in the remaining holes and tightened them up snug. Then I removed the countersink bolts and replaced with normal pressure plate bolts. Then I torqued in the normal sequence. This will help center it up. I regularly use this method in machining, usually is good enough to get parts centered within .002"
best of luck! I know this kit sucks and is super frustrating to have to remove and replace. Keep me updated

Or! Even a better idea, machine sleeves to press over their alignment pins to make the flywheel and pressure plate more of a snug fit. I'm sure a local machine shop could whip those up on a lathe in a matter of minutes. Shouldnt cost more than $100 for all the sleeves.

How far did you drop your steering rack to?

Not sure about the exact measurements of that. I used the steering kit from LS1RX8. I can measure it if need be next time I'm around the car.

That would be very very awesome. But no rush, whenever is fine 😃