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1JZ Engine Swap
Decided to go ahead and start this swap thread. You'll have to be patient with me as this swap isn't going to happen over night. I have a wife and 4 daughter's, so time can be limited some days. But my goal is to have this completed by March and ready to tune. I'm going to try to be as detailed as I can on this swap for the benefit of others, and I don't want this to be just another dead end thread within this forum (or another forum) with a severe lack of information. Anyway, Lets get this started.......
I have chosen to do this swap using as much Mazda stuff as I can. So this means everything from the transmission back. But I "WILL NOT" be using the Aisin 6 Speed, this transmission is made of glass and I don't need that drama in my life. SO....... What is the next logical step, The JDM 5 Speed Rx8 Gear Box (R Box). This is the EXACT gearbox that the FD Rx7 came with, with some minor difference's. Obviously the push clutch design and the tail housing is the 2 first noticeable differences. On the inside not much has changed with the exception of 5th gear. The FD Box had a 5th gear ratio of .719, the Rx8 Box is .806. Information can be found here : MAZDA RX-8 | ABA-SE3P / CBA-SE3P | September, 2008 If you are on a budget, and want as much strength and reliability as you can get, this is the way to go. Picture of the gear box : https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...dcd83581e.jpeg |
What I will be using to mate the engine to the gear box is an adapter/flywheel combo from PMC MotorSports out of Poland. It is designed to be used with a Automatic 1JZ Flex Plate behind the flywheel(Note, you will need the factory spacer that goes between the 1JZ crank and the flex plate). It will set you back about $900 Shipped, before UPS emails you and hits you up with another $40 in duty charges or they wont deliver your package:wallbash:. The clutch you have to use with this flywheel so far, is another European Special. I have been unable to find it this side of the pond. An interesting side note is that these self adjusting clutches can be rebuilt. No pictures of the clutch yet as it is still between Poland and here (Pics to come). The clutch is from a BMW Diesel SACHS Self Adjusting Clutch Part # 3000-951-952. You have to buy the whole clutch just for the pressure plate as that is all you need. The stock throw out bearing and your choice of Mazda 1x23x240mm clutch disk can be used. I have chosen Comp Clutch Part # 381087-0620 6 Puck Rigid Ceramic. This setup should hold almost 600 Ft Lbs of Trq. The R Box will break before the clutch does :evil_laug
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...822ad78d7.jpeg |
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I"ll get back to the Flywheel/Adapter/Clutch stuff when the actual clutch gets into my hands.
The engine is a 1JZ-GTE Non VVTi converted to single turbo. This engine is a front sump which will not work. Among other things that will not work, On the engine is a "Hunk O Shit" Chinese turbo manifold that the previous owner decided to weld a T3 Flange on top of a T4. And it looks like PoOoO......... I have all ready sourced the correct rear sump oil pan. This engine has 1000cc injectors and a Precision 6765 https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c6807fedb.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f2e656bac.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...831e8f981.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d71578890.jpeg |
Forgive my nasty foot !https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0481dbaaf.jpeg
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Just a quick update :
Just got the clutch in the mail today. Also my JZA80 motor mount brackets came in as well. Still waiting on some more parts, but for now, its back to taking the car apart. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d8f2f0fbe.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...252ecb94a.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1714b2c97.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...7bcf225f4.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4cdb2d749.jpeg |
cool good luck
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Time for a little update. Got the engine and 6 speed transmission out, 5 speed transmission in, cut out the battery tray cross member and removed the majority of the wiring. Also went ahead and dropped the steering rack down as it needs to be relocated anyway.
Pictures of progress : https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bb21cd25f.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...38151ab30.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b4ffb8979.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f951887fa.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...aeecac32b.jpeg |
Getting 1JZ ready to install.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...efd93c6a9.jpeg 5 Speed R Box https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4f756e040.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3a06c1818.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ec70ab0ae.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d447c989c.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...86abe0cdc.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9fb8150a7.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c12aaf720.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...886890328.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...92dc9b4c3.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9d0f3aa9c.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9df58ae93.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...613bea0ad.jpeg |
The Steering and Suspension components needed came from Stephen @ LS1RX8 : More updates and pictures to come on this as I progress.
Oil Cooler : I will be using one of the factory Rx8 Oil Coolers in conjunction with a Circuit Sports Oil Filter Block with built in 180 degree T-Stat. The oil cooler I will be using will be the drivers side cooler as it is the closest to the oil filter assembly on the engine which would require the shortest length of hose to be used. Now the Rx8 oil coolers have built in thermostats, and there is no need to have a 180 degree T-Stat in the oil filter block and a 200 degree T-Stat in the oil cooler. I have gutted the thermostat and blocked off the bypass port in the factory Rx8 cooler. If anyone would like a detailed "how to" on this just let me know, and I will make a new thread on bypassing the oil cooler thermostats. Its pretty simple. |
Everything is looking real good. The 1JZ may be one of the most underrated engines and can rev damn near as high as the 13b-MSP engine with twice the torque.
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Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4876576)
Everything is looking real good. The 1JZ may be one of the most underrated engines and can rev damn near as high as the 13b-MSP engine with twice the torque.
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I think you may be overthinking it. I have the 5-speed and my 5th gear gets about 1 inch away from the emergency brake when shifting, but rests about 1.5 inches away once in gear. I'm sure my hand scrapes against that lever every time I go into 5th, but I have never literally given it a second though until just now..... I didn't even know there was a difference... Damn You!
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Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt
(Post 4876590)
I think you may be overthinking it. I have the 5-speed and my 5th gear gets about 1 inch away from the emergency brake when shifting, but rests about 1.5 inches away once in gear. I'm sure my hand scrapes against that lever every time I go into 5th, but I have never literally given it a second though until just now..... I didn't even know there was a difference... Damn You!
Sorry lol. But yes there is clearly a difference. Its just one of those things that once you see, you cant un-see. The picture of the 5 speed isnt as good but you get the picture. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4fa0f17ac.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...dbd2a22dd.jpeg |
Im sure there is a real fancy extended length short throw FD3S shifter that would fix the issue, but I have bigger and better things to worry about at the moment than the shifter. It will probably be the last thing i worry about, like, once I start driving it again and it starts to annoy the piss out of me.
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Sorry it has been a while on an update. The engine is finally bolted down permanently, so here are some pictures of the motor mounts. I had to slightly modify what I got from Steven at LS1 RX8. Something from his setup vs mine was different, and it would not sit on the mounts correctly. Mine set about 1.5 or so further back, reason is still unknown at this time.https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...be3a44bdd.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b1e5f9c06.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...df50a9a24.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...542ea726f.jpeg |
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I have my reservations on the motor mount setup. The motor mounts are made of Delrin and my thoughts are that its going to be extremely harsh. Once it is all said and done, I may have to go back and make some changes. Anyway, I have been mostly focusing on wiring the last couple weeks. But in that time I did figure out my throttle body solution. I was hoping to use the RX8 throttle body in the beginning, but the more I looked at it and tried to adapt it to the 1jz intake manifold, it just was not a feasible solution. The 74mm Rx8 Throttle body is just to big to try to make work on the 1jz intake manifold which is 60mm. So, back when i used to do the Subaru thing, I remembered that the Forester/Wrx shared the throttle body connector 06-09. So i purchased a 2007 forester throttle body to give it a shot. Here is a picture of the 2 throttle bodies.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...739b0ddee.jpeg |
The Subaru throttle body lines up pretty good with the 1jz intake manifold all things considered. There is still some port matching that needs to be done on the intake manifold, which isnt an issue as the 1jz manifold as plenty of meat on it. The top bolt hole on the Subaru throttle body will need to be drilled out to fit the 1jz throttle body studs, and will need to drill and tap the manifold for the lower 2 bolts. Also, a spacer from torque solutions will need to be used as the the throttle body electronics will foul out on the manifold and not sit flush without it.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8f969df30.jpeg You can see the top holes have been drilled in the spacer, and there is some port matching that needs to be done. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c3f02d0c5.jpeg Port matching complete. Just need to drill and tap bottom holes. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8c74835b1.jpeg Done and installed on manifold. |
Nice build thread so far. In regard's to Stephen's swap mounts...
I was under the impression that his mounts would only line up with the engine appropriately if a R154 gearbox was used in the JZ swap. Perhaps this is the reason why the mounts didn't end up working out perfectly for you. Or perhaps he makes special mounts for swaps using the RX8 transmission? Please let me know. I've been researching this swap and I think I'm going to be following your method a bit here. |
Originally Posted by vesper_rx
(Post 4878007)
Nice build thread so far. In regard's to Stephen's swap mounts...
I was under the impression that his mounts would only line up with the engine appropriately if a R154 gearbox was used in the JZ swap. Perhaps this is the reason why the mounts didn't end up working out perfectly for you. Or perhaps he makes special mounts for swaps using the RX8 transmission? Please let me know. I've been researching this swap and I think I'm going to be following your method a bit here. I have spent quite a bit of time talking with Steven on FB Messenger and Via phone on this matter. The first time we talked before I ever bought anything, he said that everything should fit. Got the kit and it was not quite up to snuff as far as fitment. He didn't know why it didn't work correctly, according to him he used the same adapter as me ( I know he did because he sent pictures) to mock up his mounts when he first toyed with the 1JZ. And i know he swapped to Supra/Soarer mounts somewhere down the line. There could be allot of reasons why. But what matters is, Steven did his best to make the situation right, all the way down to making me new sub frame mounts trying to get it to fit correctly. He made mention of building another 1JZ car like this to solve any future issues. In the end I ended up modifying the first set of plates and stands he sent which was really no big deal at all. Only thing that I'm unsure about at this point is the Delrin mounts that come with the kit. Well....LOL, with just the starter turning the engine over, you can hear it vibrating/resonating loudly in the cabin. I can only imagine what it would be like running. Im currently working on a Poly Solution to dumb things down a bit. If that is unsuccessful, then Ill go another route. |
Originally Posted by RGT84
(Post 4878023)
I have spent quite a bit of time talking with Steven on FB Messenger and Via phone on this matter. The first time we talked before I ever bought anything, he said that everything should fit. Got the kit and it was not quite up to snuff as far as fitment. He didn't know why it didn't work correctly, according to him he used the same adapter as me ( I know he did because he sent pictures) to mock up his mounts when he first toyed with the 1JZ. And i know he swapped to Supra/Soarer mounts somewhere down the line. There could be allot of reasons why. But what matters is, Steven did his best to make the situation right, all the way down to making me new sub frame mounts trying to get it to fit correctly. He made mention of building another 1JZ car like this to solve any future issues. In the end I ended up modifying the first set of plates and stands he sent which was really no big deal at all. Only thing that I'm unsure about at this point is the Delrin mounts that come with the kit. Well....LOL, with just the starter turning the engine over, you can hear it vibrating/resonating loudly in the cabin. I can only imagine what it would be like running. Im currently working on a Poly Solution to dumb things down a bit. If that is unsuccessful, then Ill go another route.
I was planning on doing the exact same thing you've done, minus outsourcing the work to a fabricator when it comes to motor mounts and possibly the suspension modifications. Right now, I'm pretty convinced I'll be going with a custom mount but would like to know what you think of the suspension correction parts that Stephen provides. |
So here are some pictures on the steering components installed. I made another adjustment to the steering shaft extension because I just didn't trust it (And I may be a tad OCD).
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6cf0415ca.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...12ec85a1d.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6ba3756f1.jpeg Needed to drill the top 1/16th of an inch of so the new tie rod would fit. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5b5e7aa1f.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e858a2d1e.jpeg This steering adapter was not a direct bolt on. The extension shaft was cut to fit, https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f18b45002.jpeg Didn't Trust the Allen screws so it got some welds once it was the right length. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b45b5a898.jpeg |
Originally Posted by vesper_rx
(Post 4878025)
I've been aware of Stephen's products and was always under the impression his parts were underwhelming for the price you pay for them. If you were to redo this again, would you have had a fabricator make the parts you bought from him? I mean, for 550 bucks, he better send a proper motor-mount.
I was planning on doing the exact same thing you've done, minus outsourcing the work to a fabricator when it comes to motor mounts and possibly the suspension modifications. Right now, I'm pretty convinced I'll be going with a custom mount but would like to know what you think of the suspension correction parts that Stephen provides. Well, there was more $ involved than $550. But, looking back, as far as the motor mounts are concerned, I would have just bought the Sub-Frame Plate Kit and made my own mounts (And I still may). They are pretty well made and cut on a water jet, so they look nice. But when he fixes the fitment issue, it should be a non issue. They steering kit was okay. I personally didn't care for the angle it left the sway bar links in, and ended up going to some adjustable ones and made some supported extensions for the control arm side, which I'm still not to fond of, but it will have to do for the moment (I'll add some pictures soon). And the Steering Shaft Extension I ended up welding because I did not trust the Allen screws. |
You can see in the pictures what I did. And this works fine if both wheels move up and down at the same time. But the issue is, If one wheel moves up independently from the other, the one wheel being pushed up is well supported, but the opposite side will receive a pulling motion. The end result of this could very well be a broken sway bar link ear on the control arm. And I have ripped these off on one of my Miata track cars before. Im not to fond of this, and I have yet to figure out a solution, but I have other things to focus on at the moment. Im sure someone will speak up.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c411cb18b.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...fcd557e56.jpeg |
Originally Posted by RGT84
(Post 4878032)
Well, there was more $ involved than $550. But, looking back, as far as the motor mounts are concerned, I would have just bought the Sub-Frame Plate Kit and made my own mounts (And I still may). They are pretty well made and cut on a water jet, so they look nice. But when he fixes the fitment issue, it should be a non issue. They steering kit was okay. I personally didn't care for the angle it left the sway bar links in, and ended up going to some adjustable ones and made some supported extensions for the control arm side, which I'm still not to fond of, but it will have to do for the moment (I'll add some pictures soon). And the Steering Shaft Extension I ended up welding because I did not trust the Allen screws.
Is this Sub-Frame Plate Kit offered by Stephen? If so, I don't see it on his website. If not, please send me the link. I'm honestly not satisfied with any of the suspension solutions I've seen (from a kit that is). Really looking forward to seeing how you button everything up. Glad to see the PmC adapter place a JZ engine as close to the firewall as possible with the RX-8 transmission. What are you going to do with engine management by the way? Will you be running dual ecu's or going with the Adaptronic set-up? |
Originally Posted by vesper_rx
(Post 4878043)
Is this Sub-Frame Plate Kit offered by Stephen? If so, I don't see it on his website. If not, please send me the link. I'm honestly not satisfied with any of the suspension solutions I've seen (from a kit that is). Really looking forward to seeing how you button everything up. Glad to see the PmC adapter place a JZ engine as close to the firewall as possible with the RX-8 transmission. What are you going to do with engine management by the way? Will you be running dual ecu's or going with the Adaptronic set-up? And yes, it's very, very tight behind the engine. Tight enough you have to remove the plastic brackets and studs off the firewall that hold the brake lines. And no, you will have to call Steven or talk to his brother on getting stuff separate. But they will sell you whatever you want piece by piece. Oh, and to get the valve covers off if they ever leak, you will be removing the motor mounts to drop the motor down enough to get the bastards off. Happy Days |
Originally Posted by RGT84
(Post 4878044)
There is only 3 companies that I know of that make some kind of suspension kit or subframe for the rx8 that I know of, V8 Roadsters, LS1RX8 and Hinson Supercars. Hinson, is about useless IMOP. Called 3 times, they said they would get back with me on a price and never called back. 3rd time I called they said "We are busy, so..... sorry". I will be using Adaptronic 100%.
And yes, it's very, very tight behind the engine. Tight enough you have to remove the plastic brackets and studs off the firewall that hold the brake lines. And no, you will have to call Steven or talk to his brother on getting stuff separate. But they will sell you whatever you want piece by piece. Oh, and to get the valve covers off if they ever leak, you will be removing the motor mounts to drop the motor down enough to get the bastards off. Happy Days https://www.cxracing.com/products-by.../ESK-RX8-SWAYB Pics are at the bottom, just scroll down a bit. Can't tell 100% that the positioning is any better but at least the quality of the piece looks pretty nice. What's your opinion on them. I'm a little less knowledgeable with suspension systems in this regard. Apologize if it's a dumb question. Also, are you rerouting your brake lines as well for this swap then? Or have you found a more flush mounting solution in the way you'll hold the brake lines in the OEM position? |
Originally Posted by vesper_rx
(Post 4878076)
I'm not sure if you're aware of CX-racing's sway bar spacers.
https://www.cxracing.com/products-by.../ESK-RX8-SWAYB Pics are at the bottom, just scroll down a bit. Can't tell 100% that the positioning is any better but at least the quality of the piece looks pretty nice. What's your opinion on them. I'm a little less knowledgeable with suspension systems in this regard. Apologize if it's a dumb question. Also, are you rerouting your brake lines as well for this swap then? Or have you found a more flush mounting solution in the way you'll hold the brake lines in the OEM position? The positioning on the CX Racing ones move it all in the right spot. But It doesn't solve the issue, all they did was add a "pivot" point off the shock bolt in order to obtain the desired position, and use a aluminum sleeve to bridge the distance from where the sway bar link originally mounted. As one wheel moves independently of each other there will still be a significant amount of undesirable leverage on the mounting ear on the control arm. Which could/would cause it to fail. Last thing I need is to be at the track or at The Dragon and have a sway bar come loose. And once the car is running, tuned and all the bugs worked out, upgrading the suspension system even further to re-obtain factory or better handling is my goal. And I'm sure this swap will upset the handling quite a bit. Where there was no motor in front of the strut towers before, Now there is a foot of engine in front of them even with the engine 1/2in away or so from the firewall. Including more weight. But, Odie@FealSuspension will help me sort the rest of this garbage out when the time comes. The brake line can be held back against the firewall with some stainless rubber insulated and/or plastic cable clamps and it clears everything just fine. As long as your cool with putting a couple stainless phillips head tech screws in your firewall to hold the clamps. But everything is so tight on the passenger side, all of the exhaust, manifold, (including a turbo blanket) will need to heat wrapped. There is A/C lines, Heater Core Lines and that one brake line for the passenger wheel that don't need to get hot. |
Originally Posted by RGT84
(Post 4878113)
The positioning on the CX Racing ones move it all in the right spot. But It doesn't solve the issue, all they did was add a "pivot" point off the shock bolt in order to obtain the desired position, and use a aluminum sleeve to bridge the distance from where the sway bar link originally mounted. As one wheel moves independently of each other there will still be a significant amount of undesirable leverage on the mounting ear on the control arm. Which could/would cause it to fail. Last thing I need is to be at the track or at The Dragon and have a sway bar come loose. And once the car is running, tuned and all the bugs worked out, upgrading the suspension system even further to re-obtain factory or better handling is my goal. And I'm sure this swap will upset the handling quite a bit. Where there was no motor in front of the strut towers before, Now there is a foot of engine in front of them even with the engine 1/2in away or so from the firewall. Including more weight. But, Odie@FealSuspension will help me sort the rest of this garbage out when the time comes.
The brake line can be held back against the firewall with some stainless rubber insulated and/or plastic cable clamps and it clears everything just fine. As long as your cool with putting a couple stainless phillips head tech screws in your firewall to hold the clamps. But everything is so tight on the passenger side, all of the exhaust, manifold, (including a turbo blanket) will need to heat wrapped. There is A/C lines, Heater Core Lines and that one brake line for the passenger wheel that don't need to get hot. Thanks for the insight about the turbo side heat issue. I'll be ceramic coating everything on that side as well as adding what you suggested. I've heard great things about Odie and Feal in general. I have a set of coilovers I'll probably have him revalve in the future. Is he also going to help you with the sway bar mounting and such? Or just shocks/dampers? |
Originally Posted by vesper_rx
(Post 4878149)
Thanks for the insight about the turbo side heat issue. I'll be ceramic coating everything on that side as well as adding what you suggested. I've heard great things about Odie and Feal in general. I have a set of coilovers I'll probably have him revalve in the future. Is he also going to help you with the sway bar mounting and such? Or just shocks/dampers?
No Problem. He will help with just the coilovers and sway bar sizing. This will give you an idea of how tight everything is over on the turbo side. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ce7633cdb2.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bf66063ddd.jpg |
Just trying to get caught up on some wiring while I hurry up and wait on parts.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d284cb000.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...79c8b5510.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...13a553542.jpeg |
Okay, Intake manifold fitment : There are no clearance issues with the intake manifold on the firewall side. The issues you will run into as far as clearances are concerned is between the intake and the ABS pump. You will have to make some sort of bracket to hold the pump as close to the strut tower as you can get it. There is a picture showing how i did it. On the intake manifold there is some factory mounting/castings that must be removed for clearance issues as well. Once this has all been done, it is still relatively tight fitting, but you should end up with somewhere around 1/4in-3/8in clearance between the intake and the pump.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1a39fd9bc.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...19b52c126.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...27c5c3ec9.jpeg |
How much longer till she’s purring? |
Originally Posted by Fijibluefg2
(Post 4878710)
How much longer till she’s purring? |
Any updates!? :)
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Originally Posted by vesper_rx
(Post 4880772)
Any updates!? :)
Not really. I have decided mid build to put the PRE 6765sp on the shelf and or sell and use a different turbo. I was on the fence about using this T3 6765 anyway because of having to adapt it to a T4 manifold. Its just going to be more trouble than it is worth. Currently looking for a EFR, Leaning towards a 7670...... I think.... |
This thread has been a massive amount of inspiration!
My PMC adapter kit is due to arrive on Friday, cant wait to make a start with my VVTI 1JZ, Luckily my RX8 came factory 5 speed so no need to upgrade the box. Sorry to go way back and ask a probably, totally simple question, and your choice of Mazda 1x23x240mm clutch disk can be used. I have chosen Comp Clutch Part # 381087-0620 6 Puck Rigid Ceramic. This setup should hold almost 600 Ft Lbs of Trq. The R Box will break before the clutch does https://www.rx8club.com/images/smili...l_laughter.gif We in NZ have a similar problem as you guys in US as none of the models came here and noone stocks the kits off the shelf. I'd rather just like to order my clutch parts once. Good stuff, keep it coming! Cheers |
Finally got around to finishing my power steering pump delete bracket. Apparently I'm the only one not using power steering but USING A/C. They make brackets for No Power Steering or No A/C. And even a fix for no a/c and power steering, but not just No Power Steering. I will post some more pictures tonight on how it mounts.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0b52b3cab4.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bca2556379.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4ab2d8e01d.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d50ddc544d.jpg |
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Looks like its all coming together nicely...
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Finally got the correct belt for the engine the other day and got everything adjusted as far as belt alignment. I also FINALLY finished the differential bushings. I found out that you can actually remove the differential mount and replace the bushings without removing the entire diff. This may have all ready been known but it made me extremely happy regardless.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5dfac5574.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bae2f78cf.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...68b5b0f22.jpeg |
Also on a side note, I have located and purchased the shorter 2JZGTE Engine Mounts. These are shorter than the current SC300 mounts that I have, and I am hoping it will give me the needed room to either make the stock 2JZ stuff work, or at the very least let me be able to make a proper set of mounts. I will see this weekend. (UPDATE 3/20/2019 : THIS SHIT DID NOT WORK, WILL UPDATE LATER)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d6c5178ee.jpeg |
Regarding the removal of the diff mounts, did you have to lower the rear sub-frame at all, or were you able to access and undo the nuts / bolts with it all in situ?
Will be replacing my diff mounts soon as well, so any tips you can give would be of help. Nice build thread too! Looking forward to the end result. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by RX0004
(Post 4883054)
Regarding the removal of the diff mounts, did you have to lower the rear sub-frame at all, or were you able to access and undo the nuts / bolts with it all in situ?
Will be replacing my diff mounts soon as well, so any tips you can give would be of help. Nice build thread too! Looking forward to the end result. Thanks. |
Awesome build thread, very helpful!
|
So and update on the suspension. I was working under neath the car last night and i needed the wheel moved a bit to give me some elbow room, when i pushed on it I heard a click. So I got out from underneath and started checking. I grabbed the wheel and started to see if it had any play in it, which it did. Come to find out that the Heim Joints supplied in the kit from LS1RX8 are absolute trash. The joints are not tight and there is a clear clicking sound with everything tightened up like it is supposed to be when the wheel is rocked/moved back and forth. :cussing:
So now I'm on the hunt for some quality joints. So I'm going to looking into QA1's, AFCO'S or Aurora's. |
I used the QA1 bumpsteer kit to suit a Mustang. Works with a little modification.
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Originally Posted by RX0004
(Post 4883501)
I used the QA1 bumpsteer kit to suit a Mustang. Works with a little modification.
Here is a link to the video on this trash. |
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