Where?
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Where?
I live in saint john nb and just bought my first rotary engine. Its an rx8 lol. I am looking for a solid place to take it for a good tuning and some upgrades. Would mazda dealer be a place to do this???
#2
Registered
My advice would be to avoid the Mazda dealer as you would a den of thieves.
If you have any mechanical ability at all you can do your own maintenance using DIY's you find here.
Hopefully some member near New Brunswick will chime in with the name of a skilled rotary mechanic near you.
Oh ... welcome to the club.
If you have any mechanical ability at all you can do your own maintenance using DIY's you find here.
Hopefully some member near New Brunswick will chime in with the name of a skilled rotary mechanic near you.
Oh ... welcome to the club.
#3
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Welcome aboard, Red Line Envy.
Here is the RX8Club recommended maintenance schedule. The coolant can react with the heater core, which starts to dissolve, and then you get crap in your coolant passages. Obviously that is less than good, so regular coolant flushes are highly recommended. Unfortunately, ignition coils are considered "wear items" on this car, and they need to be replaced every 30k. Otherwise, you get misfires, which clogs the catalytic converter, which leads to backpressure, which kills the engine. Its a domino situation. Overheating can literally kill your engine in minutes, so watch that temp gauge.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
Here is the RX8Club recommended maintenance schedule. The coolant can react with the heater core, which starts to dissolve, and then you get crap in your coolant passages. Obviously that is less than good, so regular coolant flushes are highly recommended. Unfortunately, ignition coils are considered "wear items" on this car, and they need to be replaced every 30k. Otherwise, you get misfires, which clogs the catalytic converter, which leads to backpressure, which kills the engine. Its a domino situation. Overheating can literally kill your engine in minutes, so watch that temp gauge.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
#4
Registered
Thread Starter
Thank you
Lol i totally screen shot that ****. Another question. That little light that looks like a circus tent. ( rotary light ) i think. What are the reasons for this light showing up. And i was told to dump some octane boost in with every fillup. This good or no?
#5
Registered
No need to use octane boost if you use 91 or 93 octane gasoline, it'd just be a waste of money. I've always used 93 octane. My 8 loves it! It drinks it in huge gulps.
#6
Registered
Thread Starter
Gas in sj lol
There are two shell gas stations around here and that is the only fuel i have used. Its only 91 so i feel the octane is worth it for 6$ with every fill up. ( the rx is my baby so money is no worry lol). Im just loaded with questions lol. How about oil. Syn or reg ?
#7
Registered
Thread Starter
Need some friends 😊
To many civics and 240s around here. I need some rotary driving friends lol. Anyone in the Saint John NB area get at me.
#10
Registered
There are two shell gas stations around here and that is the only fuel i have used. Its only 91 so i feel the octane is worth it for 6$ with every fill up. ( the rx is my baby so money is no worry lol). Im just loaded with questions lol. How about oil. Syn or reg ?
Oil ... use whatever you like, fossil or synthetic, it doesn't matter. just change it every 3K miles or so. Many owners use diesel oil. I use Motorcraft 10W30 synthetic.