Very LONG cranking in winter!
(Sorry, I'm not goot at English)
Hi. I have a question about long cranking in winter.
In my location, outdoor temperature was -8 degree(Celsius) today.
When I start a car, it was very-very long cranking(I think, may be 6 or 7 seconds)
But, Parking on warm location(10 ~ 15 degree. celsius) cranking time is almost 2 seconds, always.
I saw a youtube video, it was only 2 seconds craking in winter(dashboard display shows -17 degree celsius)
What problem with my car? HOW can I prevent long cranking in cold weather?
Hi. I have a question about long cranking in winter.
In my location, outdoor temperature was -8 degree(Celsius) today.
When I start a car, it was very-very long cranking(I think, may be 6 or 7 seconds)
But, Parking on warm location(10 ~ 15 degree. celsius) cranking time is almost 2 seconds, always.
I saw a youtube video, it was only 2 seconds craking in winter(dashboard display shows -17 degree celsius)
What problem with my car? HOW can I prevent long cranking in cold weather?
Last edited by airlive; Dec 16, 2014 at 08:03 PM.
The only component that is involved in starting that changes it's performance based on outside air temperature is the battery, and that is in exactly the way you describe: Colder air temps means longer cranking times.
The ECU will still fire up an otherwise healthy engine at -15F (-26C) with only a few revolutions longer than when it's warm outside. I know, i've done it several times. If the temp swing is making the starting significantly harder, then it's a weak battery that doesn't have enough cold cranking amps. Either because you went with a cheap battery, or because the one you have is failing.
The ECU will still fire up an otherwise healthy engine at -15F (-26C) with only a few revolutions longer than when it's warm outside. I know, i've done it several times. If the temp swing is making the starting significantly harder, then it's a weak battery that doesn't have enough cold cranking amps. Either because you went with a cheap battery, or because the one you have is failing.
If this was the old days, I'd say there was a problem with the choke. With fuel injection, there's an equivalent of the choke, controlled by the ECU. But aren't there other components besides the ECU involved in cold start enrichment? No idea what they are on new-fangled cars, but I sure miss being able to just pull on the choke cable.
Battery problems in the winter tend to show up as slow cranking, and running out of crank before it starts.
Ken
Battery problems in the winter tend to show up as slow cranking, and running out of crank before it starts.
Ken
There are other possible causes to hard cold starts, but none other than the battery where the ONLY difference is the ambient temperature.
Coolant leakage into the engine, for example, but that will be a really hard start at 50F as at 0F.
In the ECU, there is cold start enrichment, starting primer, etc... all controlled by the ECU based on the parameters it sees of temp, and they are very good. I guess in theory if the coolant temp sensor is bad it could throw it off quite a bit, but he would be getting a CEL for that.
Coolant leakage into the engine, for example, but that will be a really hard start at 50F as at 0F.
In the ECU, there is cold start enrichment, starting primer, etc... all controlled by the ECU based on the parameters it sees of temp, and they are very good. I guess in theory if the coolant temp sensor is bad it could throw it off quite a bit, but he would be getting a CEL for that.
Definitely need more CCA as said previously. Similar thing happened with my replaced oem battery. To give you an idea of the life of them my first was replaced at 15k miles and the second at 55k.
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