OK. I'm stuck in the new member area because i did not feel the need to post until today. For starters I have read a large number of threads already. Im getting a car for my son and i to play with. Im an audi guy but my sons all jdm so the rotary is our comprimise. I'm considering getting an 04 automatic that is not running for 2300. I need some experienced guidance so all hail the rx8 experts. Its at 107000 miles. He says the apex seals or shot. However, the engine quit one morning after a short trip from his work to home. The next morning it started hard so he turned it back off. After that it would not start. He replaced plugs. He has no compression test numbers. It has also been 30000 miles since purchase so even if the ignition was new, its due now. So my question after all this is what are the chances that it is flooded and I can do a deflooding and start it, that its a shot ignition ( which I plan on replacing anyways along with the cat) or that the apex seals really went overnight and I need a rebuild (which its due for and I'm going to add a SOHN kit to anyways)

 

I would lean toward bad engine.
Owner says bad apex seals, that's pretty specific, so he might know what he's talking about.
'04 automatics had more issues to begin with.
You might be able to find another running '04 MT for the same price or slightly more.
Good luck!

 

The problem is he lives in a podunk town where fuel injection is new technology. The mechanics have no idea how to work on a rotary. He himself said that it was like it flooded. And I would by and far prefer a manual, but I can't find one under 6000 in Knoxville tn. If someone else can find one around 3 I will gravel at your feet. My son is 14 and gets his permit in November. If I can teach him to drive in a rotary I think I would deserve the title worlds most kick *** dad. What I really want to know is if apex seals go gradually or if they quit over night?

 

It unlikely but possible.

To test, pull leading spark plugs and try to crank - if you get a boat load of fuel it was flooded. If not, then press your finger over the plug hole and feel for pressure to build while you try to start. Its the ghetto-fabulous way to tell.

If it is flooded, a few cranks with the spark plug out should get you deflooded enough to start.

 

My big fear is to fix this before I have the title and drive the price up. How much air are we talking? I also know it has not gotten coils in 30000 miles. Can you hear compression in a rotary like you can with a piston engine?

 

Here's what I'm thinking. I am going to go in, change the coils and see if it comes to life if I deflood it. I think he's tired of having it and will be a bit of a push over. What else should I pay attention to? Is there a way to see cat issues without dropping it?

 

Finger is better than you're ear. Same principle though. You should feel three distinct equal pulses on your finger. Coils in 30,000 is a "should" replace category, not a "must" replace.

You have to drop the cat to see if it's clogged.

If it is REALLY flooded - the petal to the floor crank method is hard; even with good coils.

 

OK. Thank you for all your help. Feeling really prepared. Still wondering though, when the seals go is it overnight or is it over time? If I just have to unflood it I will $#!+ myself.

 

It's over time - but eventually it goes and won't start anymore.

 

Im taking the risk that its just flooded. I've ordered new coils and plugs and I think I'm going to flip the car and then find a manual. I think I could break even if it needs seals but I understand the risk and what happens when rotors and housings are bad

 

Hi!
Any progress?

 

We'll see this afternoon. I've got new coilpacks and plugs, a set of jumper cables and I'm going to clean the MAF. Hopefully she fires.

 

The one time I had to do mine, I pulled the fuel pump fuse & it took about 15 minutes of trying to fire up.
Some people have success doing it how the manual says, but I thought it made sense to pull it.

 

A better question is....have you done a compression test using a rotary engine specific tester?

 

That's one of the first things I'm going to do. I feel confident I can get it to run, and then its going to the dealership for a compression test. I don't want to keep asking dumb questions because I know we don't have any answers til everything comes apart, but do the apex seals wear and lose compression, or do they break, destroy the rotors, housing, and irons, and then lose compression? Basically if I get a compression test and have low compression but intact apex seals, will I be able to rebuild with minimal internals.

 

Also does anyone know anyone with a spare engine they don't want? It may just be cheaper to drop a new one in and be done with it. Going to sell pretty quick and not really concerned about longevity.

 

I doubt if anyone has a spare engine they'd be willing to part with for less than it might cost to get this one running good enough for a comp. test unless yours is totally destroyed.
I don't know enough about apex seals to answer your question, maybe someone more knowledgeable can help, or maybe search the troubleshooting threads for answers.
If you plan on getting another 8, just keep going, & if you can't get it running you'll need ignition parts eventually. Just take your new parts off & start fresh with the next one.
Good luck!

 

I've got new coils and plugs. They're not OEM but they'll do. It'll be 2 weeks before I get to really crack into it but can't wait

 

I went and picked the car up today. Used a uhaul car carrier. Got it back, changed the coil packs and cleaned the MAF, it had new plugs and wires, and spent an hour deflooding it with the pedal method. Finally got it started with big plumes of white smoke. I figured I better clear the carbon out and make sure its totally unflooded, so I took it for a test drive on a back road in the mountains full of cutbacks. I have not stopped smiling yet. Got her washed and now she sits beautiful and shiny out front. So psyched.

I have a low coolant light and need a new skid pan. Other than that going autocrossing next weekend. Any pointers on where to get a pan and which one to use. I know it helps the radiator work. Also any pointers on alignment for autocross?