It is time to get an RX8! Need more input from knowledgeable people!
07-27-2013, 11:40 PM
#26
Another thing I'm getting more confused on is the oil issue.
Premixing or Topping it off every week?
From what I've read, I believe this is how it goes:
You get the car > Change oil > Add a quart of oil in tank before fueling > Fill up > Have fun with the car > Check the oil level once a week if you need to refill the oil tank.
Is this correct or am I wrong somewhere? Reason for this is: I remember seeing an "either" premix "or" just keep the oil tank full.
Checking your engine oil often is a must. Premix (2 stroke oil) in your fuel is not.
I premix, but I don't sweat if I miss every now and then. Read up on it and come to your own conclusions, before this thread turns into a hot debate. DON'T ASK FOR ADVICE ON WHICH OIL TO USE OR IF PREMIX IS NECESSARY!
07-28-2013, 12:17 AM
#27
Oil and "premix" are two completely different things, using different types of oil.
Checking your engine oil often is a must. Premix (2 stroke oil) in your fuel is not.
I premix, but I don't sweat if I miss every now and then. Read up on it and come to your own conclusions, before this thread turns into a hot debate. DON'T ASK FOR ADVICE ON WHICH OIL TO USE OR IF PREMIX IS NECESSARY!
Checking your engine oil often is a must. Premix (2 stroke oil) in your fuel is not.
I premix, but I don't sweat if I miss every now and then. Read up on it and come to your own conclusions, before this thread turns into a hot debate. DON'T ASK FOR ADVICE ON WHICH OIL TO USE OR IF PREMIX IS NECESSARY!
As for premix, I guess I'll do it every other fill-up. Since a rotary would be a little similar to an airplane's radial which requires frequent lubrication on it seals, I think the same principle will apply on the rotary. As for which oil, to avoid a flaming hot thread, I'll use the manufacturer's recommended or maybe a grade higher depending on the car that I get itself since it'll be different on each car.
On another note, I found a guy is selling a 2004 RX 8 GT 6 Speed MT, Black Ext, Tan Int for only $6800. The catch? He didn't pass aircare test. I would think it's because of carbon buildup in the engine and/or bad plugs. Of course it might be something else entirely.
I'll ask for more info and post whatever he says and maybe get some good diagnosis if its something to buy or not. But that Failed Aircare :/
07-28-2013, 12:36 AM
#28
As for premix, I guess I'll do it every other fill-up. Since a rotary would be a little similar to an airplane's radial which requires frequent lubrication on it seals, I think the same principle will apply on the rotary. As for which oil, to avoid a flaming hot thread, I'll use the manufacturer's recommended or maybe a grade higher ...
Mazda does not recommend ANY premix. Maybe I'm reading you wrong, but I think you are confusing regular engine oil and 2 stroke (premix) oil...
07-28-2013, 01:49 AM
#29
And premix uses 2 stroke oil (after re-reading Premix section in noob guide XD)?
Last edited by Anarchist26; 07-28-2013 at 01:52 AM.
07-28-2013, 08:19 AM
#30
In your original posts it sounds like you would be commuting 16k in each direction. In one of your last posts you say 16k round trip. Well that is a big difference. You can effectively half the amount fuel in my original estimate.
Motor oil, goes in the engine oil pan through the filler cap on top of he motor.
Premix (think weed eater oil) goes in the fuel tank. Don't use actual weed eater oil. Definately do not put motor oil in your fuel tank!
Motor oil, goes in the engine oil pan through the filler cap on top of he motor.
Premix (think weed eater oil) goes in the fuel tank. Don't use actual weed eater oil. Definately do not put motor oil in your fuel tank!
07-28-2013, 10:16 AM
#31
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Pre-mixing is unproven, but there is some logic behind it pertaining to the lubrication of seals
(series 1 especially) that may not get enough oil to lube properly.
Oil tanks are usually specific to 8s equipped with SOHN adapters that inject clean 2 stroke oil into the engine instead of relying on the OMP that injects the motor oil into the engine.
Most (I think) use 6-8 ounces of JASO certified low ash 2 stroke oil mixed in the gas with Idmetsu seeming to be the favorite.
As far as I know it's only available over the web.
I use Lucas semi-syn. 6-8 ounces added to the gas at fillup.
It is recommended to not let your fuel level get below 1/4 tank.
(series 1 especially) that may not get enough oil to lube properly.
Oil tanks are usually specific to 8s equipped with SOHN adapters that inject clean 2 stroke oil into the engine instead of relying on the OMP that injects the motor oil into the engine.
Most (I think) use 6-8 ounces of JASO certified low ash 2 stroke oil mixed in the gas with Idmetsu seeming to be the favorite.
As far as I know it's only available over the web.
I use Lucas semi-syn. 6-8 ounces added to the gas at fillup.
It is recommended to not let your fuel level get below 1/4 tank.
Last edited by BigCajun; 07-28-2013 at 10:26 AM.
07-28-2013, 10:31 AM
#32
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Yeah, Anarchist, you are getting the various oils confused 
The Renesis series1 engine (2004-2008) has 2 oil injectors in the housing to inject oil into the engine. This is primarily to lubricate and cool the side seals, as disabling this oil injection system is proven to result in significantly quicker side seal failure. This is where the oil consumption comes from.
However, there are many who believe that because the 2 oil injectors are pointing at the side seals, the center of the apex seal gets excessive wear. Mazda apparently agrees, since the Series2 engine added a 3rd oil injector to the middle of the housing to cover this.
So, for the series1 engine, many premix by adding clean burning 2-stroke oil to the gas tank to get some lubrication on the center of the apex seal. There really isn't any proven data that shows that premixing has a long term benefit, but this is largely because we have SO many failure methods, generally something else takes out the engine first. Even if it gets down to normal slow compression loss, there are still far too many factors to be able to isolate the impact of premixing.
The SOHN adapter basically intercepts the oil injection system to use a different oil source instead. This is so that you stop injecting 4-stroke crankcase oil that isn't designed to be burned, and you can inject clean burning 2-stroke instead.
The Renesis series1 engine (2004-2008) has 2 oil injectors in the housing to inject oil into the engine. This is primarily to lubricate and cool the side seals, as disabling this oil injection system is proven to result in significantly quicker side seal failure. This is where the oil consumption comes from.
However, there are many who believe that because the 2 oil injectors are pointing at the side seals, the center of the apex seal gets excessive wear. Mazda apparently agrees, since the Series2 engine added a 3rd oil injector to the middle of the housing to cover this.
So, for the series1 engine, many premix by adding clean burning 2-stroke oil to the gas tank to get some lubrication on the center of the apex seal. There really isn't any proven data that shows that premixing has a long term benefit, but this is largely because we have SO many failure methods, generally something else takes out the engine first. Even if it gets down to normal slow compression loss, there are still far too many factors to be able to isolate the impact of premixing.
The SOHN adapter basically intercepts the oil injection system to use a different oil source instead. This is so that you stop injecting 4-stroke crankcase oil that isn't designed to be burned, and you can inject clean burning 2-stroke instead.
07-28-2013, 11:13 AM
#33
You gonna eat that?
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Alright, I'll do that engine oil check once a week since its the most popular vote.
P
As for premix, I guess I'll do it every other fill-up. Since a rotary would be a little similar to an airplane's radial which requires frequent lubrication on it seals, I think the same principle will apply on the rotary. As for which oil, to avoid a flaming hot thread, I'll use the manufacturer's recommended or maybe a grade higher depending on the car that I get itself since it'll be different on each car.
On another note, I found a guy is selling a 2004 RX 8 GT 6 Speed MT, Black Ext, Tan Int for only $6800. The catch? He didn't pass aircare test. I would think it's because of carbon buildup in the engine and/or bad plugs. Of course it might be something else entirely.
I'll ask for more info and post whatever he says and maybe get some good diagnosis if its something to buy or not. But that Failed Aircare :/
P
As for premix, I guess I'll do it every other fill-up. Since a rotary would be a little similar to an airplane's radial which requires frequent lubrication on it seals, I think the same principle will apply on the rotary. As for which oil, to avoid a flaming hot thread, I'll use the manufacturer's recommended or maybe a grade higher depending on the car that I get itself since it'll be different on each car.
On another note, I found a guy is selling a 2004 RX 8 GT 6 Speed MT, Black Ext, Tan Int for only $6800. The catch? He didn't pass aircare test. I would think it's because of carbon buildup in the engine and/or bad plugs. Of course it might be something else entirely.
I'll ask for more info and post whatever he says and maybe get some good diagnosis if its something to buy or not. But that Failed Aircare :/
I think there are different methods.
I have the impression here in Missouri it's hit or miss, depending where you bring it.
Most of my inspections have been visual, where they put it on a lift to see if the cat is still there, and check under the hood to see if the air pump is still hooked up.
I think there is a "sniffer" test, that actually checks the emissions of your car, and another that checks the OBD for any codes that are stored regarding emissions.
Back home in Louisiana, there were places that would pass you if you greased the guys palm.
It could be a case where the cat went bad, (very common) and was replaced with a midpipe.
New OEM cats are very expensive, but there are cheaper alternatives.
I wouldn't rule out buying a car without a cat for a good price if it is in good shape.
It's an easy fix.
07-28-2013, 12:58 PM
#34
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Emission testing varies from state to state, and also from region to region within each state.
Here in Northern Virginia they started off doing a sniffer test at idle and modest rpm, no load. Then they went to sniffer on a chassis dyno. Now it's OBD, reverting to sniffer if the ODB shows it's been reset.
Beginning with the dyno setup the results are transmitted from the machine to DMV, which would make it really hard to grease someone's palm. With ODB the car's ID is transmitted, which probably makes it impossible.
In any event, buying a car that flunked emissions is not a good idea.
Earlier in this thread the OP had the statement
Did anyone point out not to do that? Even if it's premix?
Ken
Here in Northern Virginia they started off doing a sniffer test at idle and modest rpm, no load. Then they went to sniffer on a chassis dyno. Now it's OBD, reverting to sniffer if the ODB shows it's been reset.
Beginning with the dyno setup the results are transmitted from the machine to DMV, which would make it really hard to grease someone's palm. With ODB the car's ID is transmitted, which probably makes it impossible.
In any event, buying a car that flunked emissions is not a good idea.
Earlier in this thread the OP had the statement
Add a quart of oil in tank before fueling
Ken
07-28-2013, 02:09 PM
#35
In your original posts it sounds like you would be commuting 16k in each direction. In one of your last posts you say 16k round trip. Well that is a big difference. You can effectively half the amount fuel in my original estimate.
Motor oil, goes in the engine oil pan through the filler cap on top of he motor.
Premix (think weed eater oil) goes in the fuel tank. Don't use actual weed eater oil. Definately do not put motor oil in your fuel tank!
Motor oil, goes in the engine oil pan through the filler cap on top of he motor.
Premix (think weed eater oil) goes in the fuel tank. Don't use actual weed eater oil. Definately do not put motor oil in your fuel tank!
Pre-mixing is unproven, but there is some logic behind it pertaining to the lubrication of seals
(series 1 especially) that may not get enough oil to lube properly.
Oil tanks are usually specific to 8s equipped with SOHN adapters that inject clean 2 stroke oil into the engine instead of relying on the OMP that injects the motor oil into the engine.
Most (I think) use 6-8 ounces of JASO certified low ash 2 stroke oil mixed in the gas with Idmetsu seeming to be the favorite.
As far as I know it's only available over the web.
I use Lucas semi-syn. 6-8 ounces added to the gas at fillup.
It is recommended to not let your fuel level get below 1/4 tank.
(series 1 especially) that may not get enough oil to lube properly.
Oil tanks are usually specific to 8s equipped with SOHN adapters that inject clean 2 stroke oil into the engine instead of relying on the OMP that injects the motor oil into the engine.
Most (I think) use 6-8 ounces of JASO certified low ash 2 stroke oil mixed in the gas with Idmetsu seeming to be the favorite.
As far as I know it's only available over the web.
I use Lucas semi-syn. 6-8 ounces added to the gas at fillup.
It is recommended to not let your fuel level get below 1/4 tank.
Yeah, Anarchist, you are getting the various oils confused
The Renesis series1 engine (2004-2008) has 2 oil injectors in the housing to inject oil into the engine. This is primarily to lubricate and cool the side seals, as disabling this oil injection system is proven to result in significantly quicker side seal failure. This is where the oil consumption comes from.
However, there are many who believe that because the 2 oil injectors are pointing at the side seals, the center of the apex seal gets excessive wear. Mazda apparently agrees, since the Series2 engine added a 3rd oil injector to the middle of the housing to cover this.
So, for the series1 engine, many premix by adding clean burning 2-stroke oil to the gas tank to get some lubrication on the center of the apex seal. There really isn't any proven data that shows that premixing has a long term benefit, but this is largely because we have SO many failure methods, generally something else takes out the engine first. Even if it gets down to normal slow compression loss, there are still far too many factors to be able to isolate the impact of premixing.
The SOHN adapter basically intercepts the oil injection system to use a different oil source instead. This is so that you stop injecting 4-stroke crankcase oil that isn't designed to be burned, and you can inject clean burning 2-stroke instead.
The Renesis series1 engine (2004-2008) has 2 oil injectors in the housing to inject oil into the engine. This is primarily to lubricate and cool the side seals, as disabling this oil injection system is proven to result in significantly quicker side seal failure. This is where the oil consumption comes from.
However, there are many who believe that because the 2 oil injectors are pointing at the side seals, the center of the apex seal gets excessive wear. Mazda apparently agrees, since the Series2 engine added a 3rd oil injector to the middle of the housing to cover this.
So, for the series1 engine, many premix by adding clean burning 2-stroke oil to the gas tank to get some lubrication on the center of the apex seal. There really isn't any proven data that shows that premixing has a long term benefit, but this is largely because we have SO many failure methods, generally something else takes out the engine first. Even if it gets down to normal slow compression loss, there are still far too many factors to be able to isolate the impact of premixing.
The SOHN adapter basically intercepts the oil injection system to use a different oil source instead. This is so that you stop injecting 4-stroke crankcase oil that isn't designed to be burned, and you can inject clean burning 2-stroke instead.
From what you've said, I take it that if I get an RX8 post 2008, or one with a replaced engine after 2008 (assuming they are all Series 2), I can scratch off premixing from my list of worries?
By "Aircare" I assume you mean emissions test.
I think there are different methods.
I have the impression here in Missouri it's hit or miss, depending where you bring it.
Most of my inspections have been visual, where they put it on a lift to see if the cat is still there, and check under the hood to see if the air pump is still hooked up.
I think there is a "sniffer" test, that actually checks the emissions of your car, and another that checks the OBD for any codes that are stored regarding emissions.
Back home in Louisiana, there were places that would pass you if you greased the guys palm.
It could be a case where the cat went bad, (very common) and was replaced with a midpipe.
New OEM cats are very expensive, but there are cheaper alternatives.
I wouldn't rule out buying a car without a cat for a good price if it is in good shape.
It's an easy fix.
I think there are different methods.
I have the impression here in Missouri it's hit or miss, depending where you bring it.
Most of my inspections have been visual, where they put it on a lift to see if the cat is still there, and check under the hood to see if the air pump is still hooked up.
I think there is a "sniffer" test, that actually checks the emissions of your car, and another that checks the OBD for any codes that are stored regarding emissions.
Back home in Louisiana, there were places that would pass you if you greased the guys palm.
It could be a case where the cat went bad, (very common) and was replaced with a midpipe.
New OEM cats are very expensive, but there are cheaper alternatives.
I wouldn't rule out buying a car without a cat for a good price if it is in good shape.
It's an easy fix.
Emission testing varies from state to state, and also from region to region within each state.
Here in Northern Virginia they started off doing a sniffer test at idle and modest rpm, no load. Then they went to sniffer on a chassis dyno. Now it's OBD, reverting to sniffer if the ODB shows it's been reset.
Beginning with the dyno setup the results are transmitted from the machine to DMV, which would make it really hard to grease someone's palm. With ODB the car's ID is transmitted, which probably makes it impossible.
In any event, buying a car that flunked emissions is not a good idea.
Earlier in this thread the OP had the statement
Did anyone point out not to do that? Even if it's premix?
Ken
Here in Northern Virginia they started off doing a sniffer test at idle and modest rpm, no load. Then they went to sniffer on a chassis dyno. Now it's OBD, reverting to sniffer if the ODB shows it's been reset.
Beginning with the dyno setup the results are transmitted from the machine to DMV, which would make it really hard to grease someone's palm. With ODB the car's ID is transmitted, which probably makes it impossible.
In any event, buying a car that flunked emissions is not a good idea.
Earlier in this thread the OP had the statement
Did anyone point out not to do that? Even if it's premix?
Ken
Last edited by Anarchist26; 07-28-2013 at 02:14 PM.
07-28-2013, 02:25 PM
#36
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You need a 2009-2011 RX-8 to get a Series2 engine, unless you do the swap yourself, and it needs quite a bit of work, more than just buying a series2 would cost you in the first place.
07-28-2013, 02:41 PM
#37
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Hey Anarchist, you are definitely on the right track with the apparent amount of research you are doing.
You already know more about it than I did before I bought mine a year ago.
I'm no expert, and a lot of members here know far more than I do, but I'll be glad to offer up any help I can.
Good luck!
You already know more about it than I did before I bought mine a year ago.
I'm no expert, and a lot of members here know far more than I do, but I'll be glad to offer up any help I can.
Good luck!
07-28-2013, 02:47 PM
#38
Registered
There's a long sticky thread on premix. If you're planning on premixing I suggest you add that to your reading list. Lots of conflicting opinions, but when you emerge at the end you should have a good feel of the concensus on what kind and how much.
Ken
07-29-2013, 02:07 PM
#39
Incorrect on the engine replacement bit. There are many changes, and it would cost a significant amount to make a series1 chassis compatible to take a series2 engine. Series1 engines that fail under warranty are replaced by manufactured series1 engines.
You need a 2009-2011 RX-8 to get a Series2 engine, unless you do the swap yourself, and it needs quite a bit of work, more than just buying a series2 would cost you in the first place.
You need a 2009-2011 RX-8 to get a Series2 engine, unless you do the swap yourself, and it needs quite a bit of work, more than just buying a series2 would cost you in the first place.
Hey Anarchist, you are definitely on the right track with the apparent amount of research you are doing.
You already know more about it than I did before I bought mine a year ago.
I'm no expert, and a lot of members here know far more than I do, but I'll be glad to offer up any help I can.
Good luck!
You already know more about it than I did before I bought mine a year ago.
I'm no expert, and a lot of members here know far more than I do, but I'll be glad to offer up any help I can.
Good luck!
A quart per tank is about the ratio you'd use for a two-stroke engine, where the premixed oil lubricates everything in the engine.
There's a long sticky thread on premix. If you're planning on premixing I suggest you add that to your reading list. Lots of conflicting opinions, but when you emerge at the end you should have a good feel of the concensus on what kind and how much.
Ken
There's a long sticky thread on premix. If you're planning on premixing I suggest you add that to your reading list. Lots of conflicting opinions, but when you emerge at the end you should have a good feel of the concensus on what kind and how much.
Ken
_____________
On a brand new car note, there's a 2010 Mazda RX-8 R3 Package with 10,700km on it being sold by a dealer, used, for only $23,995.00 (+tax I suppose).
It's rocking a white ext. and gray leather int. which really puts me off as I prefer the Black&Tan or Red&Red..
Here's a copy-paste of their ad:
2010 Mazda RX-8 R3 PACKAGE w/ ONLY 10,700KMS ON IT
ONLY $205.91 BI-WEEKLY!LOW LOW MILEAGE!! ONLY 10,700KMS! Quick off the line this RX8 offers superb handling and driving excitement. This economical yet sporty ride offers driver comforts such as 6Speed manual Transmission, ABS brakes, Power Locks and Windows. It's recently undergone a safety inspection, mechanical reconditioning and detailing, and comes backed by our Owner Protection Plan. We'd love to put you in the driver's seat to show what else this car has to offer, so come by today! Based on 4.99% for 72 months. Total Price $32,121.96!
"economical yet sporty" Hmmm O.o..
07-29-2013, 02:11 PM
#40
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Bleh. I would kill for a white R3 here in the US.
As it is, I will probably just vinyl wrap a blue or black one, maybe a red though, since they are so much more common. Satin white or carbon white
As it is, I will probably just vinyl wrap a blue or black one, maybe a red though, since they are so much more common. Satin white or carbon white
07-29-2013, 02:47 PM
#41
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I'm from Abbotsford, and last I went into Vancouver, premium gas prices were around atleast $1.60 a Litre. I am sure regular gas is probably around what you said. I usually drive down to the states which is a 10 minute drive to the border to fill up there, which costs roughly around $55-$60 compared to the $80ish it would take here. During the school semester, fall for example, I drive around quiet a bit and have to fill up every 2 weeks, sometimes 1.5 if I drive like a maniac which I love to do(:D)! Total monthly cost for Fuel is $110 usually. Oil won't be that expensive, I usually top off after every 1000-1500km, and you can grab a couple litres from a Mazda dealership for a good price.
Onto the gas mileage. Well since you really know your stuff regarding the 8, I assume you know people do not purchase an 8 for its fuel mileage. I usually get 400km(Rough estimate) depending on how I drive.
ICBC will look at the 8 as a 4 door. The 8 I drive, and I am the only driver is under my dad's name for another couple years until I can swap the insurance over to my name without the crazy extra costs of being young, because in 2 years I will have been driving for 5 years. So right now insurance for us is $140/month.
Do not purchase an automatic RX8, neXib(2nd post) is spot on with his comment towards this topic. I am extremely pleased that I have a manual RX8, I put in hours to learn how to drive stick solely for this car and it was well worth it. I would have regretted automatic. Who doesn't want to wrap their hands around that stick control the power!?
But anyways, you have seriously done your homework and you will be a good owner. Good Luck!
Onto the gas mileage. Well since you really know your stuff regarding the 8, I assume you know people do not purchase an 8 for its fuel mileage. I usually get 400km(Rough estimate) depending on how I drive.
ICBC will look at the 8 as a 4 door. The 8 I drive, and I am the only driver is under my dad's name for another couple years until I can swap the insurance over to my name without the crazy extra costs of being young, because in 2 years I will have been driving for 5 years. So right now insurance for us is $140/month.
Do not purchase an automatic RX8, neXib(2nd post) is spot on with his comment towards this topic. I am extremely pleased that I have a manual RX8, I put in hours to learn how to drive stick solely for this car and it was well worth it. I would have regretted automatic. Who doesn't want to wrap their hands around that stick control the power!?
But anyways, you have seriously done your homework and you will be a good owner. Good Luck!
07-29-2013, 04:57 PM
#42
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
It turned out well for me after a bit of a rough start.
I bought my 8 a year ago tomorrow.
04 LY GT with 18.5k miles in near showroom condition. I knew it had a rotary, and knew someone that had an Rx7 for years, but I didn't know about the problems they had with the 04s.
I have a pretty good mechanical background, so I figured I could handle most problems that would arise with a car with low miles.
4 days after I bought it, I got a CEL for a bad cat, the warranty was 7 days expired. The dealer wanted $1400.
It was running good, so I didn't worry about it. Then I got one for misfires, and it started running worse at higher RPMs.
Then I did a lot of searching & joined the Club.
Made a huge difference, since I was not aware of the
special attention the 8 requires.
Got a lot of help and advice from lots of people here.
I found a bad coil, & plug, replaced all 4 plugs, coils & wires, cleaned the ESS & MAF sensor, & did the 20 pedal stomp.
Still ran bad, dropped the cat, discovered the front half had broken up and clogged the back half.
I ordered the BHR midpipe, but I got sick & we had a bunch of snowstorms, so it sat till nearly Spring.
After I installed the midpipe it ran great, & has ever since.
I just hope I didn't kill my compression driving it with a bat cat for several months.
I bought my 8 a year ago tomorrow.
04 LY GT with 18.5k miles in near showroom condition. I knew it had a rotary, and knew someone that had an Rx7 for years, but I didn't know about the problems they had with the 04s.
I have a pretty good mechanical background, so I figured I could handle most problems that would arise with a car with low miles.
4 days after I bought it, I got a CEL for a bad cat, the warranty was 7 days expired. The dealer wanted $1400.
It was running good, so I didn't worry about it. Then I got one for misfires, and it started running worse at higher RPMs.
Then I did a lot of searching & joined the Club.
Made a huge difference, since I was not aware of the
special attention the 8 requires.
Got a lot of help and advice from lots of people here.
I found a bad coil, & plug, replaced all 4 plugs, coils & wires, cleaned the ESS & MAF sensor, & did the 20 pedal stomp.
Still ran bad, dropped the cat, discovered the front half had broken up and clogged the back half.
I ordered the BHR midpipe, but I got sick & we had a bunch of snowstorms, so it sat till nearly Spring.
After I installed the midpipe it ran great, & has ever since.
I just hope I didn't kill my compression driving it with a bat cat for several months.
07-29-2013, 08:41 PM
#43
Realize that changes to the Renesis from were considered minor by automotive journalists. In fact, when the S2 came out, journalists talked about "refreshed styling," tweaked chassis geometry and the R3 option, but hardly anyone mentioned engine changes. Also, realize that most engines are regularly tweaked as new model years appear. You rarely hear about them either, as the changes are rarely significant. When they are, you can be sure you'll read about them in Automobile, R&T, C&D, Winding Road and others.
07-30-2013, 12:53 PM
#44
I see. I've learned a lot from this thread.
Thanks to everyone who participated and have provided very useful information. I'll be back to ask for tips whenever I see a particular RX8 that I might purchase in the near future. Until then!
And thanks again!
Thanks to everyone who participated and have provided very useful information. I'll be back to ask for tips whenever I see a particular RX8 that I might purchase in the near future. Until then!
And thanks again!
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DannyR3 (08-18-2019)
08-21-2019, 06:24 PM
#48
It is a stick! :D
Thanks! It looks great! Always brings a smile to my face.
Although... problems are already starting
CEL is on for P2071 (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve - Stuck Closed)
Headlights are dead
Fuel injectors are leaking
Haha!
Although... problems are already starting
CEL is on for P2071 (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve - Stuck Closed)
Headlights are dead
Fuel injectors are leaking
Haha!
08-21-2019, 07:00 PM
#50