Zaved Knight Ali

Hi guys...
I just got my 4 port engine rebuilt by a local builder he insisted I go for a streetport so I agreed. I live in Fiji by the way. After the rebuild we put the engine back in the car
Here’s what happened:
First start up was successful tip start. Car idled properly for the first 10 mins with lots of smoke but later the idle started to fluctuate like increases for a few seconds and then becomes normal
I tried to see if the car revs so I slowly pressed the gas and the car shut off....Ps I did the brake reset thingy before startup
After that I tried to restart the car but it won’t start.... after a few attempts it did start but died as it didn’t idle
So I left it and tried starting the next day it started again proper idle but when I tried to rev it it sounded really aggressive and the i revved upto 3k rpm and the needle was vibrating lol I tried redlining it worked but the car was like it’s mis firing or something no CEL plus as soon as I let go of the gas it shut off again
Ignition system is new
now the car barely cranks the engine spins free most of the time
is it because of the street port do I need a tune... or did the guy do the portings wrong I really need some help with my car rn ..... he told me that he ported both the side plates and the mid plate and gave a slight overlap to get the brap brap out of a streetport did he do it right or is it one of the sensors
I really wanna get my car running again so any help wud be highly appreciated
thanks in advance 😁

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Overlap? Thought I read somewhere that you couldn't do overlap in the Rensis. (dunno really maybe someone else can validate)

I would start with all the basic stuff. You had the engine completely removed so you have to start checking all the connections.
Is the maf setup ok, the ESS, O2 sensor, Baro sensor, ground wires, check the fuses, check that the ignition wires have been re-installed correctly, check the plugs how do they look, check the vacuum hoses.

If it's not running correctly I would advise not trying to redline it anymore especially because its been just rebuilt.
Give it a bit of a chance to break-in
And charge the battery up before you try and start it again.

I don't think you would need a "tune" to make it function correctly, perhaps a tune if you want to get the most out of the streetport.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I feel like yout the rebuilder should be troubleshooting the thing he sold you. Porting a renesis is a pretty serious waste of time and money, but it should run. At a minimum get the compression tested.

The fact that it at ran OK at first and then stopped tells me the port isn't the problem, more that something else in the rebuild was botched and wore out quickly. Did he reuse all of your engine's original parts? Does he have a supply of good parts to work with?

jcbrx8

Zaved,

As WCS indicated there c/b a number of things going on, but first understand that depending on what components were changed and the quality of the rebuild it may take some time for the engine to establish compression.

I'd recommend you start with:
- charge the battery
- start the engine and just try to let it idle
- if necessary, give it just enough gas to keep it running
Goal is to keep it running initially at as low an rpm as possible.
- check for leaks, CELS, etc.

Additionally,
- DO NOT redline a newly rebuilt rotary engine.
- "SEARCH" break-in process for a rebuilt rotary. Learn a bit about the process...
- Talk w/your engine rebuilder. You had him rebuild your engine...do you trust him? Explain what's going on. Ask him for assistance.

All the best.

Zaved Knight Ali

Well thanks for the assistance guys. I contacted the builder to and have a look. We started from the battery to the coils everything seemed fine maf sensor all were changed so we carried a compression test. We used a piston engine compression tester I know that there’s a special tester for rotary engines but the values are somewhat close to each other
so the front rotor has a compression of 105 psi while the rear one gave about 50 psi that sounds unfavorable

Loki

iTrader: (1)

He's a builder without even a proper compression tester? I guess your options are limited, but if he doesn't have a tester I have many questions about what other shortcuts were taken.

What does he propose you do with the 50 psi rotor? Taking it out and rebuilding again isn't ideal, the loss could be down to big parts (chrome flaking off housing, scoring of the irons, etc). Does he have access to good big parts to help you?

Zaved Knight Ali

yes my options are limited here as we lack resources in my country and a proper rotary builder too. The guy who built my engine has built a few before and they worked pretty fine just don’t know how he messed up mine. Well for the 50 psi rotor he assumes that he may have put the rotors in the wrong place the front one has gone in place of the rear one and vice versa saying something about the tapered cuts on the rotors I donno what’s he talking about! He’s taking the engine apart at the moment just wanna know if that could actually be an issue for low compression

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I would take pictures of the housings and irons (and rotors maybe) as he takes them apart. Share them here, we can at least help decide if they're reusable.

The side seals have a taper and if he got them wrong somehow, that would probably explain why they wore out so quickly and only on one rotor.

Zaved Knight Ali

ok buddy will be posting them soon

Zaved Knight Ali

These are the ported irons



The housings

I noticed a small damage at the tip of the housings