Eric1886

Long time lurker here. I have a 05 Shinka, 57k miles. I have done quite a lot of research over the last week, and wanted to basically get a head nod of yes or no. Also maybe a push in the right direction if I am missing something. Or if my reasoning is wrong.

I recently had a compression test get failing marks. Of course I replaced the ignition system first before doing that. (new plugs OEM, wires OEM, coils Version C, and a new OEM battery, thanks to the the DIY getting me that far) Sadly, my car was not under its warranty at the time of the compression test it was 3 days outside the warranty period.

Thankfully Mazda is matching 50% of the cost of a new engine replacement as well as the dealer soaking up some of the costs involved. I'm looking at a new engine for $1500.


My questions are regarding a few topics, first is break in of the engine. I will be trying to closely follow Racing beat break in procedures. Though i worry i will not put in the proper miles before having to winter store it again, will storing it before the break in has been completed cause any issues?

Second question, I understand oil is a taboo topic and I have read about half of the billion threads about it. All I want in a nod yes or no if my reasoning will provide a better chance of a successful lifetime engine. During the break-in period I will be using Castrol GTX 5W20, for the first 2000mile. I will then be switching to Royal Purple 10w40 for the remainder of the engine's life. I am choosing Royal Purple because of the recommendation of one of the Rotary engineers. Sound plan?

Final question is in regards of the Tran oil and Diff fluid. Also a taboo. I am going to be replacing the trans oil with Redline MT-90 GL4, and the Diff fluid with Redline 75w90 NS GL5. I don’t want to start another "best" thread, so all I want to know is will it improve my driving experience over OEM oil that Mazda dealers would put into it?

Driving habits of the car is a daily driver, usually mellow driving not city. With the occasional hard drives, about once a week of hard stuff.


I would also like to thank everyone from the club, though I do not post(or log in for that matter), I use the website on a weekly basis and it has helped me out of a number of jams, and has helped me get better acquainted with my car, allowing me to do my own maintance.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The weight and type of oil you put in the engine is largely not a factor in most failures. A thicker weight will save your bearings better, but none of them have any appreciable impact on the apex and side seals. Mobile 1 0w40 has the best wear results from oil analysis threads of the oils tested.

Good choice on the trans and diff fluid, proven fluids that do well. No real gain over OEM, but then no real gain to be had on any fluid.

See the last main post of the new owner's thread for a list of all the ways the engine can fail, and what you can do about each point.

AthensSilver8

iTrader: (1)

There really is no point in spending all that extra money on royal purple. It's not going to make a bit of difference in performance from other synthetics. In the long run you are just paying extra for no real gain besides going "oh that's pretty" when you pour it in.

monchie

I used to put 10w40 because of the hot desert weather, then i went with the owner's recommended 5w20. I think it doesn't make a big difference, i just have to add more every gas fill-up.