So I've read through about 15 posts on salvage titles here, and I must say.... none of them are helping. it's about a 50/50 mix on Do it, and don't do it. I've found a nice looking 05 shinka with a salvage title on it 62k miles, Just talked with the owner and he said he's only had it for about 2000 miles...And it sounded like he just didn't like it ( Poor shinka!!!!) But he also stated there was no uneven wear on the tires, however there is issues with the front and back panel not aligning with the rest of it ... I'm not sure if that's something that can be easily fixed or not.
but damn does she look good


The salvage title was due to the car being in an 8 car pileup. But "it rides great" I . He said he'd be willing to drop it to $7k. I guess I'd really like to know if you think a full Mazda checkup would alleviate any worries about the implications you get from a salvage. ( bent frame, engine damage ....other really bad things)

 

Salvage title, especially one you know to have been in a severe wreck, is only worth it for under like $2,000. You can buy a good condition 2005 for $7,000.

Insurance companies won't want to insure it at all, banks will resist a loan on it, etc... Expect to deal with problems, and you might get pleasantly surprised. I personally would only see salvage title RX-8s for their part-out value. Even if they "drive good".

I'll avoid posting my opinion of someone that paints a unique 1-year only special edition color a puke'ish green...

 

lol I have to say, I agree completely with your opinion that you avoided stating. cherry black is irresistible. But the only one around here wants 11.5 for it @ 58k miles... which putting it on the screen and re-reading it... actually sounds like a great deal, seeing all the after market on it.

 

I agree with RIWWP 100%...but if you want it, then good luck with it.

 

Full repaint, body panels don't line up, salvage title. It's obvious that the wreck that it was in was probably pretty severe and the car has probably spent some time on a frame rack getting straightened. I'd stay away from it man, not worth it.

The only thing I would buy a salvage title car for is a POS daily driver that gets good gas mileage that I don't care about, or a drift missile that I can hit k-walls with and not care about either. We're talking like less than 2 or 3 grand.

 

^ all that plus good luck trying to sell a salvaged non fuel efficient oil consuming meintenence queen cat killer when your done with it

 

I have an 06 prior salvage, which means was salvaged fixed checked out, good to go by state standards. Each state is different. It is fully insured runs like a dream handles superb and looks gorgeous. But that's mine, every car is different.
Buying salvaged is tricky buisness, yes you will have a hard time selling it, but the real issue is what's busted that you can't see. I got lucky mine is in great shape. Depending on who you talk to salvage titles or prior salvage are worth anywhere from 20%-70% less than non salvage.
I wiuld take great care in buying a salvaged car of any sort, if its not a throw away car or something your willing to put a lot of money in down the road or even a week after purchase, don't bother, buy something else.
One major thing you have to consider is safety, cars now aren't the tanks they used to be, they are designed to fall apart bend crumple fold all but explode ti keep you safe in an accident, once a vehicle has been in an accident many of those crumple zones bumpers and what have you regardless if they actual did there job of folding in half and what have you are now weakened making the car much less safe or verry likely to make a small fender bender a total loss.
Weather you buy salvaged or not is up to you, but don't get one just becouse its all you can afford becouse the reality is, you probably can't when its all said and done.

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Thanks everyone for the input :D, but, I've finally narrowed it down to one. I found a beautiful 05 shinka black cherry a couble hours south of me. I talked to the owner today and he actually knew how to take care of a rotary!!!!! The compression test was getting done before I even asked him if he was getting one. With quite a nice list of aftermarkets
Greddy mid pipe
Greddy Catback Exhaust
AEM Underdrive pulleys
AEM Cold Air Inatke
ACT Clutch and Flywhel
Tien Coilovers
An extra set of rim's ( Original and 20's)
And only 54k miles one it.
Once I get the Compression test and VIN (to check for recalls and carfax) If it's all good I'll most likely be joining the family by the end of the week.

 

Hi E, sounds like a winner! (Assuming good compression test).
Good luck.

 

Glad you didn't go for the car that wears out tires right away.

 

if he has a mid pipe and intake installed make sure HE SMOGS IT as you wont be able to
no smog= no register= no skids

 

I feel bad for you lot out in Cali..... We haven't had regulated smog tests here for about 20 years.

 

yea appearantly no other state is as strict either and every having to do it every 2 years is bullsh*t

 

Yes, CA takes the cake when it comes to emissions.

I have to inspect annually here in PA, however it's a safety only inspection. They do a "visual emissions check", but even if they find all your emissions gear missing, they apparently can't do anything about it.

 

Since I'm sure you're all sick of me making new threads :P I'll just add onto this one. With the list of aftermarkets. (And I've done my looking and love what I've found for all of them ) the obvious power gain will come from it being catless. But with this list :
AEM Underdrive pulleys
AEM Cold Air Intake
ACT Clutch and Flywheel
I see plenty of threads saying 0-5(ish) hp gains from each of them but independently no notable gain. Since I'm pretty much getting them all done and installed for minimal extra cost ( they are all done ) Would that sum of possibly 15+ hp from the minor mods be notable? Or are they really just aesthetically pleasing?

 

+15whp from everything, including catless, is reasonable. However, the trick is knowing what that +15 is getting added to A weak ignition, weakening compression, sensors off, etc.. and it might be +15 on top of 160whp. Everything else in perfect condition, it might be +15 on 180, or +15 on 200. Or anywhere in between. Even "everything healthy" engines vary considerably based on seal clearances.

 

Thanks for the input ^^ I really look forwards to see my compression results. I think... I may only take it if they are 7.8's or higher ^^ because I'm going to be picky damnit!!!!!! Maybe... at least the back ones at 7.8's.

 

Good luck!
I never got my comp.checked. I couldn't imagine giving mine back, and I had the CEL for bad cat 4 days after I bought it.
The dealer said they were going to "help me out" by selling me a new cat & not charging for labor.
They so nice!
Still almost $1400. Got a midpipe instead.

Sounds like a nice car, I hope it's OK.

 

Flabnabbit. I got the compression test back ~_~ he gave me this " 10.0.1" Sad day, now I'll need to convince him to go to a mazda dealership to get it done.

 

Methinks he knows not what was asked of him...

 

Me thinks so too... :'( However when I told him it wasn't right he was actually quite nice about it and said he'd do everything he can to get a correct test done :D. In light of recent posts of having a CAI in a DD I asked him if he had the stock one still and he does ^^ So... I'll probably take out the AEM intake when I buy it. Granted I'd avoid puddles and she'll never let some one else wash her (**** car washes). I'd be worried about really rainy days like today, it's pouring out.