RX-8 Symptoms and Causes
#51
Smoking turbo yay
to answer an earlier question: 6 speed (of course! why on earth buy this car in the automatic version?! LOL)
Service advisor back. this is the "report"
- checked and confirmed spark and fuel both getting to engine
- discovered flooded engine (possibly caused by repeated start attempts)
- followed Mazda service bulletin process TSB01-05-12 to deflood
- disabled 2nd air pump
- removed all plugs, removed fuel, blew clean / dry
- did something with the ESPS (my notes are sketchy)
- air in cylinders (notes sketchy again)
- sounds like no compression at all.
They say this took 4 hours - and it would take another 3 to do a compression test.
q1: Does that make sense?
q2: 3 hours for a compression test?
Repeat: the starter is very new upgraded starter, same time as new plugs and coils (~3000 km).
Since those replacements, absolutely no issues starting until this week.
Battery also brand new and fully charged.
Advice welcome and appreciated.
Service advisor back. this is the "report"
- checked and confirmed spark and fuel both getting to engine
- discovered flooded engine (possibly caused by repeated start attempts)
- followed Mazda service bulletin process TSB01-05-12 to deflood
- disabled 2nd air pump
- removed all plugs, removed fuel, blew clean / dry
- did something with the ESPS (my notes are sketchy)
- air in cylinders (notes sketchy again)
- sounds like no compression at all.
They say this took 4 hours - and it would take another 3 to do a compression test.
q1: Does that make sense?
q2: 3 hours for a compression test?
Repeat: the starter is very new upgraded starter, same time as new plugs and coils (~3000 km).
Since those replacements, absolutely no issues starting until this week.
Battery also brand new and fully charged.
Advice welcome and appreciated.
Like mentioned before, it's pretty much impossible to have literally no compression.
The compression test I did when I bought my car cost around CAN$200ish. I can't imagine that being more expensive in Ontario, as BC is more expensive in general.
Is it possible for you to record a video of you cranking the engine? It would help us get a better idea what is going on.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 05-11-2018 at 09:44 PM.
#52
I'm sorry I know I'm not supposed to ask but what do you mean by coolant seals my rx8 over heated I pulled it apart when I got to the radiator I didn't see anything crazy but when i look around under the car there is a trail or coolant going to the back of the car also there was white smoke coming from under the car next to the driver side and get white smoke from the exhaust please help
#53
Smoking turbo yay
I'm sorry I know I'm not supposed to ask but what do you mean by coolant seals my rx8 over heated I pulled it apart when I got to the radiator I didn't see anything crazy but when i look around under the car there is a trail or coolant going to the back of the car also there was white smoke coming from under the car next to the driver side and get white smoke from the exhaust please help
Unlike head gaskets, though, if you damage the coolant seals, you need to rebuild the engine to fix that. Never let your rotary overheat.
How much did you overheat? Where was your temp gauge at?
How is your oil looking? Does it look like milkshake?
#54
Hello,
I'm new to this and apologize if this is not in the right place. I have a 2004 rx8 MT with 60k. It is at my mechanics right now as it needs new coils. He is telling me Mazda changed the coils from how they originally were and he would need to install new brackets and such. Any coils I find he says will not fit without modifying. I am having trouble finding any information on this for a different way around it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
I'm new to this and apologize if this is not in the right place. I have a 2004 rx8 MT with 60k. It is at my mechanics right now as it needs new coils. He is telling me Mazda changed the coils from how they originally were and he would need to install new brackets and such. Any coils I find he says will not fit without modifying. I am having trouble finding any information on this for a different way around it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
#55
Smoking turbo yay
AFAIK all the OEM coils are the same shape, even throughout the different revisions.
Some people have retrofitted the S2 bracket into S1 to improve cooling(or something like that), but it's not necessary.
As for the BHR kit, you need to bend the bracket a little bit to fit(mentioned in the instructions), and also preferably remove the engine hanger as people had problems with it rubbing against the wires and shorting them. Ask me how I know.
Some people have retrofitted the S2 bracket into S1 to improve cooling(or something like that), but it's not necessary.
As for the BHR kit, you need to bend the bracket a little bit to fit(mentioned in the instructions), and also preferably remove the engine hanger as people had problems with it rubbing against the wires and shorting them. Ask me how I know.
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sweetnick (05-18-2018)
#57
Coolant seals are somewhat sandwiched between the rotor housing and plates. They have similar purpose as head gaskets in a piston engine.
Unlike head gaskets, though, if you damage the coolant seals, you need to rebuild the engine to fix that. Never let your rotary overheat.
How much did you overheat? Where was your temp gauge at?
How is your oil looking? Does it look like milkshake?
Unlike head gaskets, though, if you damage the coolant seals, you need to rebuild the engine to fix that. Never let your rotary overheat.
How much did you overheat? Where was your temp gauge at?
How is your oil looking? Does it look like milkshake?
#58
So just took a look at the oil it looks like it's fine a little light but I think its bc I recently changed the oil at first it looked Diluted but I wiped it off and checked a couple more times and it's good.
#59
Smoking turbo yay
What about compression? It almost sounds like the housing is warped from the overheating since you said there is white smoke from under the car.
#60
Saved
I'd like to toss a little info out there based on my experience and see if it's worth including in this thread. My 04 rx was dead. I messed around with it for a long time trying to put off the traditional repair, an engine rebuild. I had all the classic compression symptoms. I put in new plugs, coils, eccentric shaft sensor, leading o2, fiddled with the computer, etc. I finally stumbled across the mazda TSB on carbon removal from the combustion chamber. I did the equivalent with seafoam, major improvement, did it again, this time letting it soak overnight, runs like new. Best I can figure I was losing compression because of the carbon build up. I see that loss off compression is listed as the cause of some of the issues in the list and carbon build up would fall under cause of loss of compression but I think this might be worth mentioning in the list, carbon build up at least would get people headed down this path. I was planning to rebuild the engine based off most of what I've read, glad I found this first, hard to say if anyone else would have the same results. Mine only has 59K miles on it to be fair but I still wish I would've come across it earlier, been down for 6 months prior. Say it works on just 1 out of 50 cars, those 1 in 50 people would definitely appreciate it.
The following 2 users liked this post by bronston:
tacryer (08-21-2020)
#62
In a Series 2, would the OMP fault with flashing light not be accompanied by the DTCs? I have flashing with no DTCs. Can't seem to isolate the problem....but it's definitely burning too much oil. I can't seem to find the procedure in the FSM for isolating the OMP fault if I don't have OMP faults.
#63
Sicker than your average
Join Date: Nov 2012
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Another dumb question for you guys.
2 years ago my left engine mount started leaking oil when my dumb mechanic stuck a flathead screwdriver underneath it to check for play. When it started leaking I changed it to a blown but not leaking motor mount. As a result engine vibration increased tenfold. Now, fast forward 2 years, I'm planning to replace the mount. My question is, do you think the excess vibration blew the right mount too? Or can I just replace the left Mount and be done with it?
2 years ago my left engine mount started leaking oil when my dumb mechanic stuck a flathead screwdriver underneath it to check for play. When it started leaking I changed it to a blown but not leaking motor mount. As a result engine vibration increased tenfold. Now, fast forward 2 years, I'm planning to replace the mount. My question is, do you think the excess vibration blew the right mount too? Or can I just replace the left Mount and be done with it?
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