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Old May 11, 2018 | 09:42 PM
  #51  
UnknownJinX's Avatar
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From: BC, Canada
Originally Posted by gavinpitchford
to answer an earlier question: 6 speed (of course! why on earth buy this car in the automatic version?! LOL)

Service advisor back. this is the "report"

- checked and confirmed spark and fuel both getting to engine
- discovered flooded engine (possibly caused by repeated start attempts)
- followed Mazda service bulletin process TSB01-05-12 to deflood
- disabled 2nd air pump
- removed all plugs, removed fuel, blew clean / dry
- did something with the ESPS (my notes are sketchy)
- air in cylinders (notes sketchy again)
- sounds like no compression at all.
They say this took 4 hours - and it would take another 3 to do a compression test.
q1: Does that make sense?
q2: 3 hours for a compression test?

Repeat: the starter is very new upgraded starter, same time as new plugs and coils (~3000 km).
Since those replacements, absolutely no issues starting until this week.
Battery also brand new and fully charged.

Advice welcome and appreciated.
Technically, a compression test should be done with the engine warmed up, but in a pinch, you could do one with a cold engine. Just know that the compression numbers will be a bit higher with a cold engine.

Like mentioned before, it's pretty much impossible to have literally no compression.

The compression test I did when I bought my car cost around CAN$200ish. I can't imagine that being more expensive in Ontario, as BC is more expensive in general.

Is it possible for you to record a video of you cranking the engine? It would help us get a better idea what is going on.

Last edited by UnknownJinX; May 11, 2018 at 09:44 PM.
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Old May 17, 2018 | 09:21 AM
  #52  
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I'm sorry I know I'm not supposed to ask but what do you mean by coolant seals my rx8 over heated I pulled it apart when I got to the radiator I didn't see anything crazy but when i look around under the car there is a trail or coolant going to the back of the car also there was white smoke coming from under the car next to the driver side and get white smoke from the exhaust please help
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Old May 17, 2018 | 12:48 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by lovingmyrx8
I'm sorry I know I'm not supposed to ask but what do you mean by coolant seals my rx8 over heated I pulled it apart when I got to the radiator I didn't see anything crazy but when i look around under the car there is a trail or coolant going to the back of the car also there was white smoke coming from under the car next to the driver side and get white smoke from the exhaust please help
Coolant seals are somewhat sandwiched between the rotor housing and plates. They have similar purpose as head gaskets in a piston engine.

Unlike head gaskets, though, if you damage the coolant seals, you need to rebuild the engine to fix that. Never let your rotary overheat.

How much did you overheat? Where was your temp gauge at?

How is your oil looking? Does it look like milkshake?
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Old May 18, 2018 | 01:34 PM
  #54  
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Hello,
I'm new to this and apologize if this is not in the right place. I have a 2004 rx8 MT with 60k. It is at my mechanics right now as it needs new coils. He is telling me Mazda changed the coils from how they originally were and he would need to install new brackets and such. Any coils I find he says will not fit without modifying. I am having trouble finding any information on this for a different way around it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
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Old May 18, 2018 | 01:50 PM
  #55  
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AFAIK all the OEM coils are the same shape, even throughout the different revisions.

Some people have retrofitted the S2 bracket into S1 to improve cooling(or something like that), but it's not necessary.

As for the BHR kit, you need to bend the bracket a little bit to fit(mentioned in the instructions), and also preferably remove the engine hanger as people had problems with it rubbing against the wires and shorting them. Ask me how I know.
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Old May 18, 2018 | 01:54 PM
  #56  
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Thanks for the help!
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Old May 18, 2018 | 08:21 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by UnknownJinX
Coolant seals are somewhat sandwiched between the rotor housing and plates. They have similar purpose as head gaskets in a piston engine.

Unlike head gaskets, though, if you damage the coolant seals, you need to rebuild the engine to fix that. Never let your rotary overheat.

How much did you overheat? Where was your temp gauge at?

How is your oil looking? Does it look like milkshake?
I'm about to check my oil right now but it didn't hit the red hash mark on the temp gauge it was a few has Mark's after the half.
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Old May 18, 2018 | 08:41 PM
  #58  
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So just took a look at the oil it looks like it's fine a little light but I think its bc I recently changed the oil at first it looked Diluted but I wiped it off and checked a couple more times and it's good.
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Old May 19, 2018 | 01:57 PM
  #59  
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What about compression? It almost sounds like the housing is warped from the overheating since you said there is white smoke from under the car.
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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 10:41 AM
  #60  
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I'd like to toss a little info out there based on my experience and see if it's worth including in this thread. My 04 rx was dead. I messed around with it for a long time trying to put off the traditional repair, an engine rebuild. I had all the classic compression symptoms. I put in new plugs, coils, eccentric shaft sensor, leading o2, fiddled with the computer, etc. I finally stumbled across the mazda TSB on carbon removal from the combustion chamber. I did the equivalent with seafoam, major improvement, did it again, this time letting it soak overnight, runs like new. Best I can figure I was losing compression because of the carbon build up. I see that loss off compression is listed as the cause of some of the issues in the list and carbon build up would fall under cause of loss of compression but I think this might be worth mentioning in the list, carbon build up at least would get people headed down this path. I was planning to rebuild the engine based off most of what I've read, glad I found this first, hard to say if anyone else would have the same results. Mine only has 59K miles on it to be fair but I still wish I would've come across it earlier, been down for 6 months prior. Say it works on just 1 out of 50 cars, those 1 in 50 people would definitely appreciate it.
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Old Jun 27, 2018 | 03:39 PM
  #61  
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This is really helpful
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Old Jul 16, 2018 | 10:52 AM
  #62  
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In a Series 2, would the OMP fault with flashing light not be accompanied by the DTCs? I have flashing with no DTCs. Can't seem to isolate the problem....but it's definitely burning too much oil. I can't seem to find the procedure in the FSM for isolating the OMP fault if I don't have OMP faults.
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Old Jul 16, 2018 | 10:23 PM
  #63  
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Another dumb question for you guys.

2 years ago my left engine mount started leaking oil when my dumb mechanic stuck a flathead screwdriver underneath it to check for play. When it started leaking I changed it to a blown but not leaking motor mount. As a result engine vibration increased tenfold. Now, fast forward 2 years, I'm planning to replace the mount. My question is, do you think the excess vibration blew the right mount too? Or can I just replace the left Mount and be done with it?
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Old Apr 29, 2021 | 11:52 PM
  #64  
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Doesn't sound like seals, maybe a coil.
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Old May 30, 2025 | 11:53 AM
  #65  
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OR Very low Long Term Fuel Trim / Negative LTFT

I have a 2006 manual rx8, after the rebuild i've been having problems with severely negative long term fuel trim, talking -21% and the short term was fluctuating -20% to +20%. Replacing the purge solenoid really helped the STFT finally be able to stabilize and my LTFT now rides around -16% to -21% at idle instead of staying constantly at -21%.

I suspect the throttle body may be the next culprit. I cleaned it myself and ohm'd it out, it was within spec. However, I eventually found a PCM reading spec sheet in ShopKey and learned that the throttle body should have a certain minimum value with foot off pedal, which mine did, and read 100% with WOT (wide open throttle or foot to the floor), which mine only goes to about 68%. So, I think that however the motor works in the throttle body it's only giving partial response to commanded values and it will be the next part I swap.
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Old May 31, 2025 | 12:24 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ArmandXII
I have a 2006 manual rx8, after the rebuild i've been having problems with severely negative long term fuel trim, talking -21% and the short term was fluctuating -20% to +20%. Replacing the purge solenoid really helped the STFT finally be able to stabilize and my LTFT now rides around -16% to -21% at idle instead of staying constantly at -21%.

I suspect the throttle body may be the next culprit. I cleaned it myself and ohm'd it out, it was within spec. However, I eventually found a PCM reading spec sheet in ShopKey and learned that the throttle body should have a certain minimum value with foot off pedal, which mine did, and read 100% with WOT (wide open throttle or foot to the floor), which mine only goes to about 68%. So, I think that however the motor works in the throttle body it's only giving partial response to commanded values and it will be the next part I swap.
the rx8 reports a few variations of throttle position. relative, absolute. i think mine also tops out at 69%. but even if your throttle plate doesn't open all the way, i wouldn't think that will cause your fuel trims to be off. i'd more be looking at MAS or O2 sensor or other fuel control things including injectors.

https://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
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