Rx-8 New owner
07-15-2015, 07:33 AM
#1
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Rx-8 New owner
Hi guys,
Just got my first Rx-8 its a 2004 with the 6 speed im super excited I got it for next to nothing. It does however have a issue and may need new engine its making a clicking noise at idle and at higher revs, if I rev and let off the car hiccups and dies it does it warm and cold. Ive read alot and see it can be something like ssv or can be the apex seals has anyone had this issue?
Just got my first Rx-8 its a 2004 with the 6 speed im super excited I got it for next to nothing. It does however have a issue and may need new engine its making a clicking noise at idle and at higher revs, if I rev and let off the car hiccups and dies it does it warm and cold. Ive read alot and see it can be something like ssv or can be the apex seals has anyone had this issue?
07-15-2015, 07:37 AM
#2
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
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mileage, maintence history, cel, flashing cel, mods?
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07-15-2015, 07:46 AM
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I bought it last night for 700 from a young kid so I don't have a lot of history its 115,000 yes it has a CEL the Cel was flashing when key was in on position didn't see if it was when cranks, Ram intake is the only mod I saw. Sorry for lack of info I'm gonna start working on it tonight and want a good starting point.
The guy said it started after his friend borrowed it the friend brought it back with the noise he parked it been sitting a year and he tried a few things but doesn't know about cars.
The guy said it started after his friend borrowed it the friend brought it back with the noise he parked it been sitting a year and he tried a few things but doesn't know about cars.
07-15-2015, 07:48 AM
#4
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Welcome to the club. We're here to help.
This "ticking" noise, is it always the same regardless of RPM, or does it increase in frequency with RPM?
Your other issue could be caused by any number of things. What I'd do first is check that the intake air filter is clean and replace it if necessary. Clean the IAT and MAF sensors while you're in there. Clean the ESS as well.
If, as you say, you've read some on this forum, then you know that ignition health is of primary importance to engine health. If you know that the coils, wires and plugs have been changed recently, then good. If not, you should probably replace them immediately.
If it has a catalytic converter, check that its in good condition as well.
Then take the car to a Mazda dealer for a rotary specific compression test. Post the result of that test here and we'll go from there.
This "ticking" noise, is it always the same regardless of RPM, or does it increase in frequency with RPM?
Your other issue could be caused by any number of things. What I'd do first is check that the intake air filter is clean and replace it if necessary. Clean the IAT and MAF sensors while you're in there. Clean the ESS as well.
If, as you say, you've read some on this forum, then you know that ignition health is of primary importance to engine health. If you know that the coils, wires and plugs have been changed recently, then good. If not, you should probably replace them immediately.
If it has a catalytic converter, check that its in good condition as well.
Then take the car to a Mazda dealer for a rotary specific compression test. Post the result of that test here and we'll go from there.
07-15-2015, 07:52 AM
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Colon it changes with rpms, So im guessing ssv is probably not the cause from what I just read. and I will do these things tonight is the compression test like a normal engine?
07-15-2015, 07:57 AM
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no. comp test is for each rotor face 3/rotor=6total #s and rmp speed. normal comp test is pretty worthless
07-15-2015, 08:01 AM
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a pulley isnt gonna make a clicking sound. many years ago i cracked the porcline on a plug, it arched to the engine and made a "clicking" sound that would vary with rpm and gave me a flashing cel/misfire. your issue probably isnt that if you havent touched the plugs tho
07-15-2015, 08:08 AM
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I will post a video when I go home on my lunch break of the sound that may help you guys, I really appreciate the help. I feel like a kid with these engines they are so much different lol
07-15-2015, 08:09 AM
#10
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07-15-2015, 09:46 AM
#11
40th anniversary Edition
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
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07-15-2015, 11:49 AM
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Ok, so i went home on my lunch i took off battery terminals last night so couldnt pull any codes. While having the scanner hooked up to it was saying the misfire condition was ok. When i first started the engine it ran fine with no tapping once it idled at around 1.5 -2k rpms when I hit the gas the tapping started again idled at 900 or so then wanted to die.
07-15-2015, 01:28 PM
#13
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Ok, so i went home on my lunch i took off battery terminals last night so couldnt pull any codes. While having the scanner hooked up to it was saying the misfire condition was ok. When i first started the engine it ran fine with no tapping once it idled at around 1.5 -2k rpms when I hit the gas the tapping started again idled at 900 or so then wanted to die.
Don't hit the Gas! Let it settle down by itself, give it a cuppla minutes. This is normal behavior. All 8's start at a high idle when cold, then as things warm up they settle down to a normal idle of about 800 RPM or so. Don't try to hurry this process, EVER.
07-15-2015, 01:37 PM
#15
It sounds like you have a vacuum leak (possibly in addition to other things). You said there's a ram intake on it? You'll want to get rid of that a) because it's useless and b) because it could be poorly installed and not giving the MAF clean airflow.
A video would really help though.
A video would really help though.
07-15-2015, 01:45 PM
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RX-8s often have trouble returning to idle property after a battery disconnect, or anything else that resets fuel trims. When you disconnect the battery, just let it idle warm, then idle for another 5 minutes or so and most of this trouble returning to idle will be cleared up.
I'm not saying that this is your core problem, but having just disconnected the battery, you are mixing in at least one other idle problem at the same time, so clear that up before you try to keep diagnosing the deeper issue.
I'm not saying that this is your core problem, but having just disconnected the battery, you are mixing in at least one other idle problem at the same time, so clear that up before you try to keep diagnosing the deeper issue.
07-15-2015, 01:54 PM
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RX-8s often have trouble returning to idle property after a battery disconnect, or anything else that resets fuel trims. When you disconnect the battery, just let it idle warm, then idle for another 5 minutes or so and most of this trouble returning to idle will be cleared up.
I'm not saying that this is your core problem, but having just disconnected the battery, you are mixing in at least one other idle problem at the same time, so clear that up before you try to keep diagnosing the deeper issue.
I'm not saying that this is your core problem, but having just disconnected the battery, you are mixing in at least one other idle problem at the same time, so clear that up before you try to keep diagnosing the deeper issue.
07-16-2015, 08:09 AM
#21
What were the compression numbers?
It's not that easy unfortunately. Say you had the best kit available, you still need to take it apart, evaluate how reusable the housings are, potentially go looking for new housings. Most people have better luck buying a rebuilt engine from someone like RotaryResurrection.
It's easy to rebuild something that runs, it's much harder to rebuild something that runs longer than 10,000 miles.
It's not that easy unfortunately. Say you had the best kit available, you still need to take it apart, evaluate how reusable the housings are, potentially go looking for new housings. Most people have better luck buying a rebuilt engine from someone like RotaryResurrection.
It's easy to rebuild something that runs, it's much harder to rebuild something that runs longer than 10,000 miles.