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Might seem silly to drop 350$ on a compression tester you wont even need if you manage to get a perfect engine rebuild. But its for when issues arise that can't be solved and instead of buying a new:
starter
plugs
fuel pump
maf
injectors
plugs
coils
plugs
solenoids
vacuum lines
plugs
etc.....
imagine blowing your money on all these before finally just rebuilding a dead engine
(atleast I have pretty much a new car by now)
Might seem silly to drop 350$ on a compression tester you wont even need if you manage to get a perfect engine rebuild. But its for when issues arise that can't be solved and instead of buying a new:
starter
plugs
fuel pump
maf
injectors
plugs
coils
plugs
solenoids
vacuum lines
plugs
etc.....
imagine blowing your money on all these before finally just rebuilding a dead engine
(atleast I have pretty much a new car by now)
Exactly! Thats something I'll never have to worry about with my handy RCTV. That tool has made more far more money than its cost me. Plus you can charge people to use the compression tester.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 10-30-2020 at 01:09 PM.
Exactly! Thats something I'll never have to worry about with my handy RCTV. That tool has made more far more money than its cost me. Plus you can charge people to use the compression tester.
you know, could probably get one and then go on facebook marketplace and offer to test peoples cars they are selling for cheap. Not a bad way to pay it off easily. Should only take half an hour to an hour to remove a wheel and test each trailing port.
Its looking pretty rusty under the hood as well. Definitely could be quite a project just to fix up the body and frame let alone any electrical/mechanical work. AC belt is missing so also will need to figure that out too.
Okay so OMP is coming Thursday, just pulled the cat today and it's hollowed out so that's my o2 code, next I need to figure out the evap code and the IAT code. Any idea what this plug goes to?
I know there's no ac belt don't need that where I live and rust is what happens when you live where I do, I'm just trying to get on the road for now. So I can drive it to a shop to get a compression test done, I did one myself with a piston compression tester and figure I should be okay for a little while
Well I just found a thread about that plug guess I don't need it, and when I get my new omp I need to let the engine run a bit because the first time I messed with the OMP I took out the battery and the codes cleared so the code might not be there because I reattached my intake and cleaned the sensor. I'm going to look for a thread about the evap code because that should be the last thing I need, for now...
If the gas cap doesn't solve the leak, its likely the seal for the fuel pump. You can access it by lifting out the back driver's seat. Unfortunately its $55 to buy it...
If the gas cap doesn't solve the leak, its likely the seal for the fuel pump. You can access it by lifting out the back driver's seat. Unfortunately its $55 to buy it...
There's a recall on the fuel ring on all S1 RX8s.
If it hasn't been fixed already it's free.
Well no more limp mode, now I just have the evap code, I'm going to call a mazda dealership tomorrow there's one about 1 1/2 hours from me in vermont.
Did you check the recall status?
There's the airbag recall also, and maybe some older ones too.
If it's 90 minutes away you might want to check if they have the actuator and fix them all at the same time.
If you pick up the rear driver side seat you should be able to see if the dealer put a new seal over the fuel tank access plate. When I had recalls done on my cars, both dealers put an adhesive sealing sheet over the access plate.
I called the dealer and they said nobody has taken it to get the recalls fixed. I was considering just replacing the fuel pump because I think it's going to due to rough idle when fuel is low and the car won't always start when already engine is warm.
That's a good idea.
The fuel pump ring is a PITA to get off, you don't want to chew up a new ring.
There are tools you can rent, but most don't work well.
If you can afford it, the BHR ring tool works well.
I replaced 2 pumps in 6 years on mine, if you plan on keeping your 8 it might be worth it.
I was thinking that since the dealer is going to replace that seal maybe I could just pay for a fuel pump and hopefully not have to pay for labor, I'll ask them tomorrow, still don't have any plates on the car covid has made the dmv even harder to deal with... Hopefully this takes care of the evap code I have a feeling it will. I have to work on the brakes now my rear drivers side rotor is gouged looks like something might be in there with the pad. I've never worked on brakes but I learn fast so should be easy
Well if you are doing pads and rotors, I think brakeperformance.com might still have them on sale. It was like $300 for the full set fronts and rears slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Just know that just about every rx8 has the sport suspension. I believe it is only the lower end automatic version that has the normal suspension. Check into this to see what you have first though.
So the dealership said they would replace the fuel pump when they fix the evap leak for no labor cost but I can't seem to find a fuel pump that includes the fuel sending unit and a pressure sensor, do I need to have these replaced with the fuel pump or are they easy to swap from the old one. The dealership is telling me I need these with the new pump or they will have to disassemble the fuel pump and then charge me labor
Everything should just be contained in a new fuel pump assembly when you buy it. Unless you are trying to swap to a different pump, they should just be selling you a drop in fuel pump assembly that contains everything. I'm assuming a new fuel cap didn't fix the evap code, think I saw you say you already got one in a different thread.
Edit: I'm unsure about where the pressure sensor that tells whether or not the gas cap is tightened is. I do know that the gas filler neck does have a line that comes off of it near the top, would have to look into this more.
I believe I have it figured out now, the fuel sending unit basically the float that reads how much fuel in the tank is 2 different pieces one on the passenger side and one connects to the fuel pump on the driver's side, and the fuel pressure sensor is not connected to the fuel pump at all..? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I asked the guy at the dealership and the way he was talking I have to get a fuel pump that has everything on it already and the description that I read on the part I was going to buy said those aren't included so that confused me but they aren't supposed to be for this car
Also just want to say for anyone that cares 😂 how much I like this car, mine is somewhat of a beater but I have put a total of $1000 into it including what I paid for the car. It actually runs really good for having over 160k miles, plenty of power too and I expect it will run better after the new fuel pump and evap leak is fixed. I do want to change the ignition coils and wires though any suggestions on what I should get that will be decent price? Just trying to get as much as I can out of this engine I don't expect it to last forever
Also just want to say for anyone that cares 😂 how much I like this car, mine is somewhat of a beater but I have put a total of $1000 into it including what I paid for the car. It actually runs really good for having over 160k miles, plenty of power too and I expect it will run better after the new fuel pump and evap leak is fixed. I do want to change the ignition coils and wires though any suggestions on what I should get that will be decent price? Just trying to get as much as I can out of this engine I don't expect it to last forever
Get a cheap set of coils from Autozone if you feel the engine won’t last long. I normally only use Mazda rev C coils but they are $300 for a set. NGK seem to make the best wires and only $20 for a set.
I believe I have it figured out now, the fuel sending unit basically the float that reads how much fuel in the tank is 2 different pieces one on the passenger side and one connects to the fuel pump on the driver's side, and the fuel pressure sensor is not connected to the fuel pump at all..? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I asked the guy at the dealership and the way he was talking I have to get a fuel pump that has everything on it already and the description that I read on the part I was going to buy said those aren't included so that confused me but they aren't supposed to be for this car
These cars aren't exactly made for winter driving 😂 yesterday I was drifting and literally jumped it right into a field, messed my front bumper pretty good and the back bumper a little 😅 everything else seems fine though. So I guess I'm going to be looking into a body kit, anyone know of any that are decent to install?
10-30-2020, 01:03 PM
