Questions about engine internals
12-12-2016, 07:43 PM
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Questions about engine internals
So i finally got the engine opened up first time into a rotory.
Here are some pics of the irons amd rotor housings can you guys please let me know your opinions whether to rebuild or scrap it. The rotor housing measured true and straight no signs of chipped chrome and no cracks from plug holes. There is a bent lip on the one but dont know if it is a defect or damage this is shown in the first picture
Here are some pics of the irons amd rotor housings can you guys please let me know your opinions whether to rebuild or scrap it. The rotor housing measured true and straight no signs of chipped chrome and no cracks from plug holes. There is a bent lip on the one but dont know if it is a defect or damage this is shown in the first picture
12-12-2016, 08:21 PM
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///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
Yum that's carbonillyicious!
12-12-2016, 09:19 PM
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kevin@rotaryresurrection
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Somebody ran it hot and kept running it until it literally wouldn't run anymore. There is not going to be anything from that lot that is still good. In fact I bet the knock sensor and OMP oil lines are also melted.
Go get yourself a used longblock and drop it in and move on.
Go get yourself a used longblock and drop it in and move on.
12-12-2016, 09:36 PM
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Those arent the only things melted haha everything in the oil pan was just a glob of melted crap. Getting a new engine is probably whats going to happen just thought i would ask first befire spending the 2k i already have the master rebuild kit from atkins. I didnt think the motor was going to be that far gone. The irons i am sure are fine. Just wamted to know what experienced rotary people would see here.
Last edited by Johny5; 12-12-2016 at 09:44 PM.
12-12-2016, 09:58 PM
#17
Technically those irons can be ground down to perfection again, the Nitriding is pretty thin, but it's not likely that it's warped all that much if at all. It looks like the rotors contacted the housings in a couple places so they're most likely trash but there are a couple companies that offer housing resurfacing services, might be cheaper to just get new housings though.
12-12-2016, 10:06 PM
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Goopy rotary can resurface for 300 i dont know of amywhere that can resuface the irons i will definetley check into that. The measurments on the housings are extremely close according to my micrometer so i cant see warpage being a problem. I dont feel any evidence of the rotors contacting the housing. There arent any groves or gashes in the facing and certainly nothing on the rotors themselves to indicate that. If you could please explain and teach me how you came up to that conclusion i would greatly appreciate your help and would also like to thank everyone else for helping as well.
12-12-2016, 10:21 PM
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Mazdatrix does iron resurfacing for 80 per face so all in between resurfacing the whole engine would be around 1000 including the shipping. Buying a conplete motor is looking real good right now.
12-13-2016, 10:27 AM
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"Technically those irons are probably fine"
Let me let you all in on a little something. You see those rotor housings? They have begun to MELT in some places. Thats why that coolant seal groove is so warped. Look up the melting point of aluminum. The engine must have seen localized temps close to that at some point for that to happen.
That's why the rotors, rotor housings, and irons have turned BLACK. Any engine builder who would reuse ANY of those parts has no idea what they are doing.
I've seen this happen before. A girl owned a nice rx8 and during her deployment she let her mother drive the car. Her mother reported that the battery light came on but she kept driving, then after she got to where she was going the car never started again. A local mechanic put a new belt on it, stated that "the spark plugs were stuck in the block" and he couldn't start it, and then it was sent to me for diagnosis.
Apparently at some point the alternator belt broke. That caused the alternator to stop spinning and the battery light to come on. But it also meant the water pump was not spinning. So the engine got very hot. Coolant and belt shreds were all over the engine bay. The spark plugs were stuck in the rotor housings because the housings were actually melted internally. The knock sensor, oil pan, and OMP oil lines were also melted.
As an experiment, I set up a junk rotor housing with a good knock sensor bolted to it, and heated it with a torch from the inside while taking temp readings with an IR thermometer from the outside and waiting for the knock sensor to begin to melt. I wanted to see how hot the housing had to get to melt that sensor. After half an hour my torch could not get that housing any hotter than 400*F and the knock sensor had not yet begun to melt.
So now we have proof that for this to happen, an rx8 engine has to see temps of between 400 and 1200*F. So anytime you see those 3 items melted, you automatically know to trash any parts of the internals because they are going to be damaged as well. IF you think you want to take a chance on salvaging ANY engine internal part that has seen temps of over 400*F, then go right ahead and see where it gets you.
Let me let you all in on a little something. You see those rotor housings? They have begun to MELT in some places. Thats why that coolant seal groove is so warped. Look up the melting point of aluminum. The engine must have seen localized temps close to that at some point for that to happen.
That's why the rotors, rotor housings, and irons have turned BLACK. Any engine builder who would reuse ANY of those parts has no idea what they are doing.
I've seen this happen before. A girl owned a nice rx8 and during her deployment she let her mother drive the car. Her mother reported that the battery light came on but she kept driving, then after she got to where she was going the car never started again. A local mechanic put a new belt on it, stated that "the spark plugs were stuck in the block" and he couldn't start it, and then it was sent to me for diagnosis.
Apparently at some point the alternator belt broke. That caused the alternator to stop spinning and the battery light to come on. But it also meant the water pump was not spinning. So the engine got very hot. Coolant and belt shreds were all over the engine bay. The spark plugs were stuck in the rotor housings because the housings were actually melted internally. The knock sensor, oil pan, and OMP oil lines were also melted.
As an experiment, I set up a junk rotor housing with a good knock sensor bolted to it, and heated it with a torch from the inside while taking temp readings with an IR thermometer from the outside and waiting for the knock sensor to begin to melt. I wanted to see how hot the housing had to get to melt that sensor. After half an hour my torch could not get that housing any hotter than 400*F and the knock sensor had not yet begun to melt.
So now we have proof that for this to happen, an rx8 engine has to see temps of between 400 and 1200*F. So anytime you see those 3 items melted, you automatically know to trash any parts of the internals because they are going to be damaged as well. IF you think you want to take a chance on salvaging ANY engine internal part that has seen temps of over 400*F, then go right ahead and see where it gets you.