So got the battery readings as follows

When running without accesorries 13.5V-13.3V
When revving drops to 13.3-13.4V
With accessories drops to 12.3V

are these readings normal or lower than what they should be.. is the alternator failing.?? is it what causes a low battery voltage when having to start the car in short intervals between casuing the CEL n limp mode..??

 

At idle, the alternator should be putting out about 14.5V. It can drop with accessories but should not drop below 13V. You will want to test the voltage output directly at the alternator. Your positive lead will be on the nut on the power wire. You will have to pull back the cover to access the nut and post. The negative lead will be in the negative battery terminal. From here you can see your direct output voltage.

 

Charged the battery fully. !!
Read 14V
Ran a couple times and voila the CEL was back..
The car went inti limp. Locked n unlocked the car n restarted and the CEL was there but no limp.
And read the voltage and it was jus 12.1V running idle (with accesorries it was at night ).. when revving goes upto around 13.5
Is my alternator bad or smt..??
Can it be cauing all these wierd nonsense..
It only happens if i have to start the car abt 2 times like within 2,3 mins

 

And another wierd question how can i know if my alternator is secured properly.. to replace the injectors the prev shop had removed the alternator and all and they might have not fitted it back securely.. is there anyway to find it..??

 

Check the alternator belt tension and adjust is needed. But yes 12V is too low at idle. Is the alternator and all pulleys original Mazda?

 

Yus Atlernator and Belts n all are OEM Mazda Parts ..
Yeah im planning to do that but is there like any specific height the alternator should sit in the alt bracket or is it all tightened to a spec or...?? The belt seems kinda loose like i can push it in abt a good 1 and a quarter inch... ig its loose

 

Tightened to spec. You can probably see a mark on the bracket where it last sat. But position isn't important, belt tension is.

 

So updateeeee !!!

Read the codes when the limp occurs n its code related to the OMP.. and upon further looking into the issue i found out that one of my vaccum/air lines tht start from the accordian tube n go ( i cant fugure out where) is broken open.. can this be causing the omp issue.. yeah i had the limp but it was intermittent n randomly occuring till today n im sure till today that hose wasnt fully broken in half. and i red some other threads in this forum n found out th one line does infact leak to the OMP or the oil injectors...

does anyone have any wisdom.. do i need to forst check the omp or check tht broken hose n see..??

this is the hose that is broken from the neck

 

What is the code specifically?
That vacuum line looks like the oil injector vacuum feed, yes, and you should fix it because it's letting unmetered air into the intake, but it wouldn't throw a code. There's nothing in the OMP system to detect vacuum. Has the OMP ever been disconnected? Sometimes this happens after it's reinstalled incorrectly. Otherwise check the connector to it.

Code number will help be more specific.
​​​​​

 

Hi loki...
MA SAVOIR

So lemme show you both the hose that is broken and the DTC tht was read.


So this was the hose thats broken.. its the one tht goes out on the left side of the accordian tube.. the top one n the one in the middle are fine. I cant for the love of my life figure out where the broken line leads to ..it dissapeared under the UIM to nowhere..

And the DTC tht was read was P1688-FF Metering oil pump stepping motor #4 Control Circuit

Any idea if these are related ..?

 

As said earlier these are unrelated problems. But both are problems. Has the OMP been removed?

 

No no the omp hasnt been removed and gonna check the connectors n see tomorrow there and this issue has always been coming up for a breif time n gone away on its own till today .. not its stuck in limpp.. and the hose did break off today too.. Do you have any idea where tht broken hose myt lead to..?

 

And i see all these threads about resetting the OMP but no any guides or videos on how to... does anyone have an idea or any guide i can refer to

 

So regarding the omp.. my car did earler have a teribble coolant issue and ive read tht the omp connectors lie ryt below sm coolant hoses.. and i remember a loot of coolant dripping in this area. and it was around umm 3 months ago but then the spark plug issue came n the car jus sat there. n now after random intermittent limp modes which used to solve it self after a lock unlock n restart , now the car is stuck in limp.. ( with a broken breather hose which wasnt there)

can this be the cause.. the hose n some corroded connectiosn to the omp..??


anyoneeeee please..??

 

Answered in previous post + you can google the vacuum diagram.

.

I found at least 5 videos on the first page of google results, try again. You don't need to reset it if it hasn't been removed from the engine though. The problems usually start when people remove and then don't set it correctly when installing. Check the wiring to it.
​​​

THe OMP connectors are weatherproof so just dripping stuff on them shouldn't cause a problem. They're likely to get wet any time you drive in rain anyway. No way to answer your question over the internet, you need to go look at your OMP. The hose is absolutely a problem but isn't causing the code, so it's not the only problem.

 

so i pulled apart the battery cover n got to the OMP connectors today , the connection looks new inside and the oil feed lines have oil in them. And regarding the broken hose i found out that it goes under the UIM towards the ignition coils and then goes under..

I kept the battery disconnected to reset the ecu n is gonna fix tht broken hose n start the car up n see.. the omp connectors we covered in absolute dirt thow and there were no visible oil leaks or anything around..

This might sound dum but does the OMP have a fuse or smt tht acts as a point of electrical connection that i can test...?

Thanks loki for the reply i cant tell you how helpfull your input is..
Will do more tests and update...!!

 

Well UPDATE !!
So got my Intake hoses fixed with a new accordian tube n hoses n all n the car runs bettter with tht wierd vaccum leak hiss gone..
So ig 1 out of 2 probs is done..

Now onto the OMP issue again

• Car runs fine everytime the ECU reset (break stomp) / battery disconnection is done
• On subsequent hot starts the CEL appears n goes into Limp
• Code P1688 , the fact tht the car never goes into limp while driving (when its fine) but only during startups suggest tht it fails the ECU test ryt..?
• since the issue started i smhow managed to drive abt a 1000kms and the oil level drops as usual suggesting the omp indeed is drinking the oil as its supposed to

1. Could this mean tht theres some F' ud wiring connection somehwere..?
2. if the OMP itself has failed i cannot have a perfect car when the ecu reset is done ryt..??

Anyone got any clues ..
gonna take the car for a full electrical check on monday...

 

Found out that the battery V when loaded is less than ideal.
Gonna check the alternator.
Can a low powered underperforming atlernator cause the ECU test of the omp to fail triggering the CEL and limp mode..??

 

WELLLL UPDATEE
Imma be short
Tried everyhting except adjusting the screws of the omp

1. Removed n reconnected the omp wires n ran fine for 2 weeks without any issue until i revved after a hot start to hear sm dorito noise .. N womp womp the limp came back
2. Usually the bater disconnect works n the limp goes away
3. Has more tendency to come if i start the car with accesories such as AC lights n etc
4. The OMP works i confirmed that Its jus some glitchy electrical nonsense i cant figure it out

One day i went to do the OMP sensor adjusting thing n guess what the limp was no where to be found that day..!!

Does anyone have ani idea of what it could be the wires and connectors dont look bad..
Its jus a random OMP limp after i had my spark plugs changed.. WTF

 

Anyoneee..??

 

Got the OMP replaced ... ( knock on wood )


Have 2 working OMP sensors for anyone that is intrested. Yes original RX8 ones taken off of 2 other omps tht were discarded due to faield stepper motors.