Out with the catalytic in with the ecu problem
02-06-2020, 02:07 AM
#1
Out with the catalytic in with the ecu problem
Got rid of the catalytic converter will Alientech Powergate 3+ handheld device from vividracing fix my struggling ecu or is something else better I cant find a cobb ap what are my options other then an insurance claim
02-06-2020, 05:50 AM
#3
It sounds and acts like it has a miss I asked a mechanic friend of my to mess with it a little he said it could be the injectors but when I told him I got rid of the catalytic converter he said the ecu is probably having trouble with the air to fuel ratio and I need to get it flashed I've been looking into mazda edit but never owned a rotary so I figured I ask you guys the compression test was good I replaced all the ignition coils plugs and wires every now and then I throws up a miss fire code as well as the o2 sensors which are brand new but when I clear the code the shut it of and turn it back on the the misfire code doesnt pop up just the o2 sensors do I dont mind dumping money in it lol but I'd like to get it to run right
02-06-2020, 06:03 AM
#5
Never talk to this mechanic friend again, his response males no sense. If the ECU is having trouble you need to find and fix the issue, reflashing it won't accomplish anything.
Do you have the stock intake? Aftermarket intakes can cause idle issues. Are there any open hoses under the hood or obviously vacuum leaks?
Also please be clear in your writing. You cleared the misfire code, and it didn't come back, so you only have the catalytic converter code, as expected. Is that accurate?
Under what conditions does the misfire code back, of at all?
Do you have the stock intake? Aftermarket intakes can cause idle issues. Are there any open hoses under the hood or obviously vacuum leaks?
Also please be clear in your writing. You cleared the misfire code, and it didn't come back, so you only have the catalytic converter code, as expected. Is that accurate?
Under what conditions does the misfire code back, of at all?
02-06-2020, 06:45 AM
#6
Never talk to this mechanic friend again, his response males no sense. If the ECU is having trouble you need to find and fix the issue, reflashing it won't accomplish anything.
Do you have the stock intake? Aftermarket intakes can cause idle issues. Are there any open hoses under the hood or obviously vacuum leaks?
Also please be clear in your writing. You cleared the misfire code, and it didn't come back, so you only have the catalytic converter code, as expected. Is that accurate?
Under what conditions does the misfire code back, of at all?
Do you have the stock intake? Aftermarket intakes can cause idle issues. Are there any open hoses under the hood or obviously vacuum leaks?
Also please be clear in your writing. You cleared the misfire code, and it didn't come back, so you only have the catalytic converter code, as expected. Is that accurate?
Under what conditions does the misfire code back, of at all?
p0131 o2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 1
p0031 ho2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1
p0031 ho2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1
p0300 random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
02-06-2020, 07:35 AM
#8
You don't. You don't have a problem with the ECU.
The first 3 codes are for your uplugged rear O2 sensor. Nothing you can do about that, but you may be able to suppress them with the MazdaEdit.
With your scan tool, can you check the reading of airflow g/sec, AFR, long term and short term fuel trim on a fully warmed up idle. Nothing else. just idle
9 times out of 10 its a vacuum leak, the fuel trim values will confirm/exclude that.
The first 3 codes are for your uplugged rear O2 sensor. Nothing you can do about that, but you may be able to suppress them with the MazdaEdit.
With your scan tool, can you check the reading of airflow g/sec, AFR, long term and short term fuel trim on a fully warmed up idle. Nothing else. just idle
9 times out of 10 its a vacuum leak, the fuel trim values will confirm/exclude that.
02-06-2020, 08:04 AM
#9
Registered
You don't. You don't have a problem with the ECU.
The first 3 codes are for your uplugged rear O2 sensor. Nothing you can do about that, but you may be able to suppress them with the MazdaEdit.
With your scan tool, can you check the reading of airflow g/sec, AFR, long term and short term fuel trim on a fully warmed up idle. Nothing else. just idle
9 times out of 10 its a vacuum leak, the fuel trim values will confirm/exclude that.
The first 3 codes are for your uplugged rear O2 sensor. Nothing you can do about that, but you may be able to suppress them with the MazdaEdit.
With your scan tool, can you check the reading of airflow g/sec, AFR, long term and short term fuel trim on a fully warmed up idle. Nothing else. just idle
9 times out of 10 its a vacuum leak, the fuel trim values will confirm/exclude that.
Edit: O2 sensor setup should look similar to mine.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 02-06-2020 at 08:23 AM.
02-06-2020, 09:58 AM
#10
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
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Oh good i just spent 400 for the mazdaedit and tactric for nothing... It's a stock intake but the exhaust manifold is 2.75 with cat backs and no theres no vacuum leaks that I know of but I didnt think about the vacuum and the codes state the following
p0131 o2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 1
p0031 ho2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1
p0031 ho2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1
p0300 random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
p0131 o2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 1 sensor 1
p0031 ho2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1
p0031 ho2s heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 1
p0300 random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
Either the front O2 sensor is bad, unplugged, or has a wiring problem.
DTC P0031
DTC P0131
Since the front sensor is what the engine uses to trim fuel, I'll bet dollars to donuts if he fixes that problem, the car will run fine.
Also, what Loki said about never talking to that "mechanic friend" again. He doesn't know his *** from a hole in a block.
The following 2 users liked this post by NotAPreppie:
CaymanRotary (02-06-2020),
Loki (02-06-2020)
02-06-2020, 10:24 AM
#11
Registered
Bank 1 Sensor 1 is the front O2 sensor. Bank 1 Sensor 2 is the rear O2 sensor.
Either the front O2 sensor is bad, unplugged, or has a wiring problem.
DTC P0031
DTC P0131
Since the front sensor is what the engine uses to trim fuel, I'll bet dollars to donuts if he fixes that problem, the car will run fine.
Also, what Loki said about never talking to that "mechanic friend" again. He doesn't know his *** from a hole in a block.
Either the front O2 sensor is bad, unplugged, or has a wiring problem.
DTC P0031
DTC P0131
Since the front sensor is what the engine uses to trim fuel, I'll bet dollars to donuts if he fixes that problem, the car will run fine.
Also, what Loki said about never talking to that "mechanic friend" again. He doesn't know his *** from a hole in a block.
02-06-2020, 04:31 PM
#12
All agreed the I will replace the o2 sensors in the front and in the back if the front doesn't fix it but I'm also looking for motor mounts are the progi mounts good? Or are they junk
02-07-2020, 07:26 AM
#19
Registered
02-07-2020, 08:31 AM
#20
Only buy OEM for O2 sensors. Mazmart works well enough. https://shop.mazmart.com/en/rx8-oxygen-sensors
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